My 08 T&C's rear spoiler almost broke off the van today when I hit the power door button and the spoiler jammed into the roof (creating a small dent). Is this a known issue with this year? I already broke one spoiler off shortly after purchasing the vehicle. The plastic spoiler does not mount flush to the lift gate. If it did, there would be ample clearance.
View 1 RepliesI just recently bought a 2014 Prius v and it has a scrape/dent on the roof that has some rust (I knew about it going into the purchase). I was quoted around $700 to get it repaired, but I am wondering how difficult it might be for me to fix it on my own. My reasoning is that this vehicle is going to be used for road trips and car camping, in addition to being my daily driver, so I expect that it will get fairly dinged up over the course of my ownership. I'm not super concerned about the dent, mainly just the rust. So if possible, I'm hoping to save some money on the repair and just remove the rust and paint the effected area. Also, with it being on the roof it's not something that stands out that much so I'm not looking for the perfect visual repair.
View 18 RepliesSince there is not dipstick for a 2008 GC with six speed transmission, how much transmission fluid goes back?
View 2 RepliesI had to replace my swaybar links on my T&C due to it not passing state safety inspection. There was also some random noise that occasionally occurred on bumps. The tech said the "book" said to replace the strut and strut mounts but he could not see anything wrong. After replacing the swaybar links, there is now clunking while driving. I thought it was a lack of grease in the links but I greased them and while it got a little better...it still happens.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with 58000 miles. The rear blower won't run with either the front controls or rear controls. I have checked the fuses and they looked ok.
View 14 RepliesI'm working on a 2008 Grand Caravan SE 3.3L Brake warning light (!) on dash is on. Datastream on my OTC Genisys shows that the Brake fluid level switch is 'ON'.
The van does not have pad wear indicators; fluid is full; there are no leaks in the system; no brake pull, uneven braking or other performance issues.
Scantool says Park Brake is off and I disconnected it to be sure.
When checking connector at switch on the master, one wire has continuity to ground and the other has about 12.5V on the DMM but won't light my test light.
My T&C strikes again... Now it shakes when braking at highway speeds (thinking rotors are warped and need changed), but today the brake light, traction control, and ABS lights all come on and stay on when I drive...
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 GC with the E-Brake calipers in the back. I changed the brakes and rotors all around and now the petal goes to the floor. I know it has something to do with the rear brakes, because I did the fronts first and after a few pumps I had good petal.
I've done these types of rear brakes before, you use a tool to turn the caliper in. Is there anything I missed? Did I turn it in too much? I don't think it is the master cylinder because it was fine before I started and fine after I did the fronts.
Also, the e-brake doesn't hold at all now, so that's another reason I think the problem is in the rear calipers. Maybe an Adjustment? There's nothing leaking, either.
I am having trouble keeping the roof spoiler stuck to the rear window.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2008 GC 6 speed transmission that has 55000 miles on it. When the engine and tranny is cold the transmission shifts very hard until it warms up. There are times when shifting from reverse to drive it shifts very hard. Also, the siding doors creak when driving over rough roads. Can they be adjusted?
View 2 Repliesthis has been an outstanding van, quite reliable. it has about 115,000 miles on it. Recently, I've noticed that the transmission makes a 'tapping' noise when it shifts or downshifts. every gear has that same slight 'tap'. the tranny shifts fine, smooth, but this sound worries me a bit. any chance this could be a u-joint issue?
View 1 RepliesWe just purchased a 2012 Grand Caravan and was wondering where to get a key and program it. I know the key will be an arm and a leg if i get it from the dealer. Is there a tutorial that tells how to program it as well?
View 3 Replies2006 Caravan. Heat comes and goes every minute or so. Also noticed the temp gauge goes from normal operating range to cold and back again frequently. Hasn't overheated. Does that sound like a thermostat problem?
View 2 RepliesOn my 2005 3.3L Grand Caravan the ABS light keeping coming on. I inspected the sensors for the front and used my compressor to give them a quick puff of air to get rid of dust. The light went off for about 5 days. Now it is back on.
How does one read ABS codes? If I knew for sure that the problem is a speed sensor and which one I could clean or replace the faulty sensor.
If I clean to sensor are there any special precautions I need to take? As far as I could see they didn't look very dirty.
What am i missing i have a terrible clunk in the front end when i hit bumps. I thought it was the struts and mounting plates so they are new . no change Stabilizer links were tight but i replaced them as well. Everything else seems tight but the noise has not changed with any of the above mentioned repairs.
View 13 RepliesI'm having trouble with my 96' 3.0L, its kind of crazy its intermittent and while driving the engines surges one or twice and then dies... when I try to crank it up again cranks but don't starts if I try again it wont even crank ( no starter winding up ) what I noticed is that is I'm driving when it dies my check engine light disappears for a while and if I connect my OBD 2 reader does not link up with the ECU if I wait a while and I crank it up again its starts and the while cranking up I can hear a bang noise from the engine compartment drives side and then after a couple of minutes dies again...
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 Grand Caravan 3.8 that just stalled at a set of lights yesterday and have had it towed back to the shop here. I turns over and starts briefly then will die and then just turn over strongly. I cleaned the throttle body and IAC but this did not work. I connected fuel pressure tester and have no pressure when turn key on or turn it over.
The fuse and relay check out ok, so I'm thinking bad or clogged fuel pump.
I have a 2004 Caravan out back that I have used for other small parts to interchange before and was wondering whether or not the fuel pumps between these two are compatible. Be a lot of work to pull the one off the one in the yard, only to find out its not going to fit.
142k, having some problems lately, the van won't accelerate now and again, moreso when the engine isn't up to temp, but lately it's gotten more and more prevalent. I have done some recent and needed maintenance in hopes of fixing the issue, but to no avail so far. I've replaced the plugs and wires, air and fuel filters, and both upper and lower O2 sensors (first replaced the upper with a Bosch, almost immediately had problems with P0134 code, so instead went with a Denso, hasn't come back yet). I checked fuel pressure, 60 psi sitting in the shop, the cat doesn't seem to be clogged, and it idles fine all day long.
Problem resembles running out of fuel, or more maybe like I'm letting off the gas, but my cheap scanner says the TPS is working fine, and I was watching the TPS percentage as I was driving it was reading normally. As I'm accelerating slowly from a stop, it'll start to cut out around 30 mph, but speed doesn't seem to matter, if I accelerate sharply it just bogs and slows down, if it does shift up a gear, the rpms will jump to about 5k, then slowly decrease even if I've got my foot on the floor. I keep coming back to the fuel pump, but I don't have a long enough hose to have it connected while test driving. Considering removing the hood so I can prop the gauge up so I can see it while driving. I am getting a P0132 code now, but I'm more concerned with the accelerating issue.
Intermittently the ABS Light is coming on. 84,000 miles.
Brakes have been changed once, 10,000 miles ago.
Minor clunk sound when light is on.
Light goes off after van has set, brakes work fine at that point.
I've been fighting with these vehicle for months, and I've only been able to narrow down the list of possible issues. Tried replacing the ignition switch, battery terminals and cables, starter, and even a PCM since according to the dealership it was bad. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and they're all ok.
I'm getting fuel and spark, but no crank from the starter. The voltage going to the hot post on the starter is 12.7, but the voltage from the igniton wire is only reading around .5-.6, fluctuating a bit. Before I spend the money on taking it to a mechanic I wanted to know what your opinions were on what the next step is. I know a bit about electrical systems in cars but I'm no expert.
Someone put sugar in my gas tank so I had it worked on at the Dodge place they replaced my fuel pump..fuel filter cleaned the tank..flushed the lines cleaned my injectors and replaced the plugs..I went to pick it up I barely made it a mile down the road I had no power and a lady flagged me down to tell me to pull over because I had sparks coming from the bottom of my van I looked under the van and the catalytic converter was red like hit coals the Dodge place is telling me its my flex plate? I think they are misdiagnosing the issue because before the sugar issue I had no problems with my van?
View 14 Replies