Caravan/Voyager :: 2008 GC - Pedal Goes To Floor After Changing Brakes And Rotors
Jun 7, 2013
I have a 2008 GC with the E-Brake calipers in the back. I changed the brakes and rotors all around and now the petal goes to the floor. I know it has something to do with the rear brakes, because I did the fronts first and after a few pumps I had good petal.
I've done these types of rear brakes before, you use a tool to turn the caliper in. Is there anything I missed? Did I turn it in too much? I don't think it is the master cylinder because it was fine before I started and fine after I did the fronts.
Also, the e-brake doesn't hold at all now, so that's another reason I think the problem is in the rear calipers. Maybe an Adjustment? There's nothing leaking, either.
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I have a 96 voyager, it has been a great car for the last 10 years I've had it. My brake pedal goes down to the floor, it gives brake but I think barely and my brake light comes on. I have Bled it twice and changed the master cylinder , neither worked, I'm perplexed, my mechanic thinks it is the abs.
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I have replaced the front rotors, calibers, pads and brake lines. I went through the process of bleeding the brakes by using the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front and left front.
I did this about 4 times - process was to pump the break until the pedal was hard then my son kept his foot on the pedal while I release the bleeder value. During this process I kept the master cylinder full.
Took the car out and the pedal went right to the floor when applying the brakes. The car did stop but not as I had expected. So what have I done incorrectly here? Is there something else to check?
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2008 LS600hl with 31K miles, been having low speed brakes shudder for quite sometime even after changing pads and machining rotors. This weekend thought about putting grease on the pins holding the pads, this did the trick, shudder is gone!
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Have a 06 Grand Caravan 3.8L that suddenly quit and would start back up easily enough, but one had to keep foot on the gas to keep it going.
I pulled two codes:
P0123-throttle postion sensor 1 high
P0508-IAC valve sensor circuit low/undercurrent
So far I have removed the IAC and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner, cleaned throttle body out as well with the spray, installed new EGR since it got mangled trying to remove it for cleaning. Removed the TPS connector and with key on, took measurements and I am getting a reference voltage proper ( almost 5 volts). I then back probed the connector once it was plugged back in and again things checked out, the reference lead was varying between .7 and 4.7 volts as I manually moved the throttle plate.
I had switched out the IAC with a used one, from an engine that had been running before being parked, but it made no change.
Note: I have a new TPS but am holding off on changing it until I investigate whether or not it may have a clogged fuel filter causing it to stall at idle speed. Now if can just locate where it is..the sketchy diagrams in my Alldata program are useful.
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My old 1997 Dodge Caravan (150k miles) has weak brakes. During normal driving, it needs more pressure on the pedal to brake normally, than any other car that I have driven. This would be ok as I can push hard on the pedal... But the problem is that, past some point, I get no additional braking power no matter how hard I push.
So in case of an emergency, I cannot come anywhere close to lock the wheels (and this car does not have ABS). So basically, the braking power is proportional to how hard I push, up to a point where the braking power remains the same no matter how hard I push. At that point the pedal is maybe 1/3 down, still very far from the floor.
I have just replaced the front pads and rotor with no improvement. And when the engine is not running, the pedal gets really hard after I depress the brakes 3 times, indicating that the booster is doing something. The car will stay in the driveway for now as this is a dangerous situation.
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First, about a month ago the gas gauge started to malfunction. The low fuel light will come on and the gauge will show low even though it has nearly half a tank left. When will fill it the gauge only goes to 7/8 full.
Second, today is started stalling when I press down on the pedal. If I wait a few minutes it will restart. Has stalled twice but then will run fine.
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When i put on the brakes the steering wheel shakes and pulsates. Iam getting mixed info. One person I know said it is the brakes (front), another person said i need the alignment checked. yet another said Rotors, and still another said back brakes.... When i touch the brakes the whole van pulsates and the steering wheel shakes.
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Since there is not dipstick for a 2008 GC with six speed transmission, how much transmission fluid goes back?
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I had to replace my swaybar links on my T&C due to it not passing state safety inspection. There was also some random noise that occasionally occurred on bumps. The tech said the "book" said to replace the strut and strut mounts but he could not see anything wrong. After replacing the swaybar links, there is now clunking while driving. I thought it was a lack of grease in the links but I greased them and while it got a little better...it still happens.
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I have a 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with 58000 miles. The rear blower won't run with either the front controls or rear controls. I have checked the fuses and they looked ok.
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I'm working on a 2008 Grand Caravan SE 3.3L Brake warning light (!) on dash is on. Datastream on my OTC Genisys shows that the Brake fluid level switch is 'ON'.
The van does not have pad wear indicators; fluid is full; there are no leaks in the system; no brake pull, uneven braking or other performance issues.
Scantool says Park Brake is off and I disconnected it to be sure.
When checking connector at switch on the master, one wire has continuity to ground and the other has about 12.5V on the DMM but won't light my test light.
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My T&C strikes again... Now it shakes when braking at highway speeds (thinking rotors are warped and need changed), but today the brake light, traction control, and ABS lights all come on and stay on when I drive...
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My 08 T&C's rear spoiler almost broke off the van today when I hit the power door button and the spoiler jammed into the roof (creating a small dent). Is this a known issue with this year? I already broke one spoiler off shortly after purchasing the vehicle. The plastic spoiler does not mount flush to the lift gate. If it did, there would be ample clearance.
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I have a 2008 GC 6 speed transmission that has 55000 miles on it. When the engine and tranny is cold the transmission shifts very hard until it warms up. There are times when shifting from reverse to drive it shifts very hard. Also, the siding doors creak when driving over rough roads. Can they be adjusted?
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this has been an outstanding van, quite reliable. it has about 115,000 miles on it. Recently, I've noticed that the transmission makes a 'tapping' noise when it shifts or downshifts. every gear has that same slight 'tap'. the tranny shifts fine, smooth, but this sound worries me a bit. any chance this could be a u-joint issue?
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2004 F150 XLT, 5.4, 69,000miles.
I took my truck into Brake Check because my brakes were squeaking and the rotor needed to be worked on, when I slowed down the truck would slow down smoothly....it felt like I was pressing hard then releasing etc. I knew it needed new pads etc.
Well, they replaced the Pads, and did Rotor Reface on all 4. They recommended getting the Calipers Maintenance (front 2 wheels). They wanted $800 for new rotors too (in addition). I told them no.
Fast forward around 6 months. Truck was braking great, no squeaks etc for about 4 months. Then I begin noticing huge amounts of brake dust on my wheels. Might be normal not sure.
2 months later, but truck now squeaks again while braking. And when I'm going slow, I like in a parking garage I can hear this clicking noise while I'm on the brake. CLICK.....CLICK.....CLICK....CLICK.
If you coudn't tell, I don't know much about my truck. I'm trying to learn.
Well, whenever I slow down from ~50mph, my truck vibrates like nothing I've ever seen before. My windshield wipers are bouncing around it's so bad.
I took it to a Ford Dealership to get the works done, where they rotate the tires and change the oil etc, and inspect the brakes. The guy said the rotors need to be machined.
That's not normal right? I don't drive a lot. I don't ride the brakes, I haven't had to brake hard. 6 months from the work I've had done from Brake Check, and the rotors are bad again?
I'm just going to pay Ford to fix this issue and not go back to brake check because that means I'd have to drive 3hrs. I'm curious though, shouldn't their work on the rotor still be good.....not causing them to be worked on again?! I like my truck a lot, the brakes are just pissing me off. My last truck, a 2002 ford...I had till last winter till someone rear ended my truck totaling it, I never had to do any brake work on that thing.
I got suckered into buying the extended warranty for my truck, and it says it covers the calipers.
I'm taking it into a different ford dealership that is in my town next week, and was curious if any of you had some insight on my brake situation.
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I give up. I have been trying for a very long time to get the brakes on my 1936 dodge to work with no results. The whole system is rebuilt, new lines, resleeved and rebuilt wheel cylinders, rebuilt and resleeved master cylinder, no leaks in system, pressure bled, vacuum bled and new lines. I even had a mechanic try and get them to work. He said all they needed were to be bled very slow. he actually got them to work slightly but after the car sat for a week the brakes were gone again. Drums all around, master cylinder is single cylinder. Brake pedal goes right to floor.
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Brakes shimmy on my 05 f150. Been doing this since new new pads and rotors and alignment. what now?
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The pedal used to go right down to the floor and would barely stop the car from a crawl, in response I have bled the brake lines to all calipers, and checked the hydro booster fluid level, and with only slight improvement the pedal almost hits the floor.
I am thinking the brake master cylinder is shot. The pedal becomes solid after about 15 pumps when off, and holds pressure, when on it takes several pumps to build any sort of pressure and cannot be built up to the solid point, and looses pressure quickly when just holding the pedal down.
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I have a Hyundai Santa Fe 2005 2.7L 4WD ABS.
The problem is that the Brakes pedal is so soft, that it goes to the floor, and doesn't brake at all in first pedaling. I am able to apply brakes after pumping the pedal thrice in continuation and then when it builds up some pressure, then it brakes and I'm able to stop the car. Once, I take the foot out of the pedal, it goes bad again. Once, again if I have to apply brakes, I have to do 3-4 times pedaling.
The brakes are stopping the car fine when they get applied in 3rd or 4th pedaling and when pressure is built up. Its the pressure not getting built up or maintained in the first go.
What has been done by the mechanics to solve this:
1. Master Cylinder has been replaced with a new one. (This has been done twice)
2. Brake Pads have been changed.
3. Brake fluid has been replaced and is upto the brim in cylinder reservoir.
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