Caravan/Voyager :: 2005 - Vibration On And Off Then Smooth
Mar 13, 2012
2005 town country, on interstate, cruise a 85, drives smooth, then vibrates pretty good, it will vibrate for a few seconds then smooth, then vibrate. the vibration is felt everywhere, steering wheel, seats, even the outside mirrors vibrate, at 60 we don't feel it much, at 45 nothing. we notice when coming to a slow stop or just scooting up in traffic that it seems to have a little wobble to it too.
All brakes and rotors and all motor and transmission mounts are new, struts, strut mounts, sway bar, sway bar end links and bushings are new, have had it checked and nobody can find anything wrong. no clunking noise moving the tires left to right and up and down. alignment is perfect. the tires are crappy but am thinking if it was a tire problem it would vibrate all the time and not on and off. its never been wrecked either. it is a 3.8, front and rear sway bars, long wheel base, nivomat rear.
Wheel bearings? I don't know but would think they'd make noise moving the tires back and forth and side to side. and hear no clunking over bumps at any speed.
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I have a problem with our 97 Grand Caravan, (3.3L, 41TE tranny) Its a vibration that seems to be coming from the passenger side CV Axle.... the transmission side of the universal joint on the new axle.
We started having problems with this in December, I've done most of the work myself but still had the problem... Vibrations that seem to start and get worse at around 35 - 55 MPH. I've replaced rims, wheel bearings, both cv axles, tires, brake pads & rotors, sway bar links and bushings, tie rod ends, (inner & outer) and ball joints. (about $1,200. in new parts & tires)
In April, I finally took it to several transmission shops and talked to the operators.... The shop I chose because I could relate to the owner and felt I could trust him. The wife and I knew it was a vehicle we couldn't replace for the price of a transmission overhaul and when the shop called and told me all was fixed by replacing the new cv axle on the passenger side I was ecstatic that the problem would be fixed.... I go ahead and rebuild the transmission anyway, (now @ 289,000 miles!) .... The wife and I want to get as many miles out of this thing as we can at this point and our daughter will be driving it to high school next year.
Anyway, I get the car back late on a friday evening.... by the time I got it home I knew there was a big problem.... I put it up on jacks in the garage and saw the passenger side axle was "Slamming" in and out of the transmission!!! I test drove it on a few more short trips and took it back a week later.
About 1 1/2 weeks later I get a call and the shop owner says it is the CV axle thats bad.... AGAIIN??? Lets see, I replaced the original axles. Then "they" replaced both axles after I returned the ones I put in for warranty (Autozone) and now a 3rd axle is bad too? He insists on a different brand of axle (Napa). So when I get the car back, I again am feeling some vibrations.... not nearly as bad as it was before, and put the car up on jacks again.
This time, I don't see the axle slamming in and out of the tranny but I see the vibration comming from the trany side of the CV axle. (passenger side axle again) and I notice some grey goop on the housing fitting that wasn't there before on the trany.... This is when I started having my doubts about the shop and what they are telling me. They just replaced the axle, didn't do anything in the tranny. To beat all, theres now a fluid leak somewhere and its staining the garage floor.
Its been over two weeks now and the shop owner called me to tell me that its again the passenger side axle thats bad and that its a seal somewhere tha'ts leaking so he's gonna have to pull the tranny to get at it. I told him what I saw when I put it up on jacks in my garage.... the vibrating CV axle on the passenger side of the tranny.... He assures me that if it were a bearing it would be making some noises. He's even sent the car to a trusted tire shop and they turned the rim on the tire or something.... he's doing everything he can to make sure the problem is taken care of.
I know what I saw under the car. Just the "passenger side" axle as it is coming out of the transmission housing is moving up/down/around and that's where my vibration is coming from. The end of the axles (tire side) were running true. What's involved in repairing the differential side bearings in these tranny's? I'm going fully loaded to the Transmission shop when its ready and I'm going to insist we look at it while its on the rack. I just need to know how to check these differential side bearings.
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2005 GC. My headlights work some of the time. All all other lights work fine. Turning the switch on and off repeatedly sometimes get the lights on but sometime I just have to wait/drive abit before they come on. They also do not shut off automatically after the alotted time.
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I have a 2005 dodge caravan and today after taking my kids kids to school, I noticed white smoke coming from the hood of the engine. I managed to get home and check it out. With further inspection, smelled like some type of fluid is burning off I can't tell if it's oil or anti freeze. There seems to be some type of condensation in the inside of my van on the passenger windshield. I looked to check to see any leaks inside on the floor mat and underneath the van itself and nothing. What seems to be the issue?
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Dealer replaced rack,twice. Still thumping,they installed new struts and 4 sway bar links and bushings same thump still there. I unhooked swap bar links and tied them to brake line and backed it out is my shop and thump is still there and sounds like both sides. This van has 56,000 miles on it and the ball joints and control arms feel and look tight. Is there anything about how frame mounts that might cause this?
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I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan with a heater blower that doesn't seem to be working. Whether the heater knob is on low or high, it does nothing, but you can feel a little heat coming out, though. I was told it may be a resistor behind the glove box. I've already checked the fuse, and it seems OK. What do I do?
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Anti-theft alarm was triggered inadvertently and now won't allow vehicle to start. When ignition is turned there is just a click...does not turn over. Is there a reset???
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A couple of years after buying this I had problems with door locks and power windows. (No locking or unlocking or up/down) after looking this up as recommended I removed and replaced all the relays in the power distribution panel. (No fix) I next removed the battery so I could turn this power distribution panel over, then unplugged all the plugs and reseated them. (Wiring plugs) this got everything working. About 1 year later the same issue, with the same fix. About one more year later I encountered a starting issue... you could hear the solenoid click, but no starter engagement.
I checked the starter and it was good. So on a hunch I flipped the fuse panel over, reseated the wire plugs and it started right up, but it was intermittent for a few weeks. After several unplug and reseat the wires it was good again. Six months later it would spin the starter fine, but wouldn't start up. I first checked for fuel and it was good. Next I checked for spark and there wasn't any. Just a hunch... I went after the power distribution again and ended up taking it completely apart, also computer on the end of it, cleaned up all the connections and it fired right up.
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First, about a month ago the gas gauge started to malfunction. The low fuel light will come on and the gauge will show low even though it has nearly half a tank left. When will fill it the gauge only goes to 7/8 full.
Second, today is started stalling when I press down on the pedal. If I wait a few minutes it will restart. Has stalled twice but then will run fine.
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Alright, dodge grand caravan 3.8. Year: 05' ... Just broke 100k miles on this thing, last time i changed the plugs i noticed plug 2 had oil all down in it. I completely forgot about the problem cause i got side tracked with bad sway bar bushings. Anyways, what is the cause of the oil leakage? It has gotten so bad that I am blowing smoke when its cold, even is warm weather. There is also caked on oil and dirt on a lot of the parts down the front left side of the motor. Blown head gasket? Bad valve cover gasket? I want the best way to approach this . The smoke is white, but not enough smoke to be a completely blown head gasket.
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P0032 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
I have read that in 2005 chrysler changed the ohms levels for the oxygen sensors and may need to have bcm reflashed to get a new oxygen sensor to work wheither its dealer item or not, is this true if i were to buy a mopar oxygen sensor? aftermarket is out of the question being the ohm readings would require me to spend some time at the dealer. is this code a defective sensor? or could it be related to the thermostat being faulty? am not low on antifreeze and temp gauge reads normal.
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We just purchased a 2012 Grand Caravan and was wondering where to get a key and program it. I know the key will be an arm and a leg if i get it from the dealer. Is there a tutorial that tells how to program it as well?
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2006 Caravan. Heat comes and goes every minute or so. Also noticed the temp gauge goes from normal operating range to cold and back again frequently. Hasn't overheated. Does that sound like a thermostat problem?
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On my 2005 3.3L Grand Caravan the ABS light keeping coming on. I inspected the sensors for the front and used my compressor to give them a quick puff of air to get rid of dust. The light went off for about 5 days. Now it is back on.
How does one read ABS codes? If I knew for sure that the problem is a speed sensor and which one I could clean or replace the faulty sensor.
If I clean to sensor are there any special precautions I need to take? As far as I could see they didn't look very dirty.
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What am i missing i have a terrible clunk in the front end when i hit bumps. I thought it was the struts and mounting plates so they are new . no change Stabilizer links were tight but i replaced them as well. Everything else seems tight but the noise has not changed with any of the above mentioned repairs.
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I'm having trouble with my 96' 3.0L, its kind of crazy its intermittent and while driving the engines surges one or twice and then dies... when I try to crank it up again cranks but don't starts if I try again it wont even crank ( no starter winding up ) what I noticed is that is I'm driving when it dies my check engine light disappears for a while and if I connect my OBD 2 reader does not link up with the ECU if I wait a while and I crank it up again its starts and the while cranking up I can hear a bang noise from the engine compartment drives side and then after a couple of minutes dies again...
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I have a 2006 Grand Caravan 3.8 that just stalled at a set of lights yesterday and have had it towed back to the shop here. I turns over and starts briefly then will die and then just turn over strongly. I cleaned the throttle body and IAC but this did not work. I connected fuel pressure tester and have no pressure when turn key on or turn it over.
The fuse and relay check out ok, so I'm thinking bad or clogged fuel pump.
I have a 2004 Caravan out back that I have used for other small parts to interchange before and was wondering whether or not the fuel pumps between these two are compatible. Be a lot of work to pull the one off the one in the yard, only to find out its not going to fit.
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142k, having some problems lately, the van won't accelerate now and again, moreso when the engine isn't up to temp, but lately it's gotten more and more prevalent. I have done some recent and needed maintenance in hopes of fixing the issue, but to no avail so far. I've replaced the plugs and wires, air and fuel filters, and both upper and lower O2 sensors (first replaced the upper with a Bosch, almost immediately had problems with P0134 code, so instead went with a Denso, hasn't come back yet). I checked fuel pressure, 60 psi sitting in the shop, the cat doesn't seem to be clogged, and it idles fine all day long.
Problem resembles running out of fuel, or more maybe like I'm letting off the gas, but my cheap scanner says the TPS is working fine, and I was watching the TPS percentage as I was driving it was reading normally. As I'm accelerating slowly from a stop, it'll start to cut out around 30 mph, but speed doesn't seem to matter, if I accelerate sharply it just bogs and slows down, if it does shift up a gear, the rpms will jump to about 5k, then slowly decrease even if I've got my foot on the floor. I keep coming back to the fuel pump, but I don't have a long enough hose to have it connected while test driving. Considering removing the hood so I can prop the gauge up so I can see it while driving. I am getting a P0132 code now, but I'm more concerned with the accelerating issue.
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Intermittently the ABS Light is coming on. 84,000 miles.
Brakes have been changed once, 10,000 miles ago.
Minor clunk sound when light is on.
Light goes off after van has set, brakes work fine at that point.
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I've been fighting with these vehicle for months, and I've only been able to narrow down the list of possible issues. Tried replacing the ignition switch, battery terminals and cables, starter, and even a PCM since according to the dealership it was bad. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and they're all ok.
I'm getting fuel and spark, but no crank from the starter. The voltage going to the hot post on the starter is 12.7, but the voltage from the igniton wire is only reading around .5-.6, fluctuating a bit. Before I spend the money on taking it to a mechanic I wanted to know what your opinions were on what the next step is. I know a bit about electrical systems in cars but I'm no expert.
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Someone put sugar in my gas tank so I had it worked on at the Dodge place they replaced my fuel pump..fuel filter cleaned the tank..flushed the lines cleaned my injectors and replaced the plugs..I went to pick it up I barely made it a mile down the road I had no power and a lady flagged me down to tell me to pull over because I had sparks coming from the bottom of my van I looked under the van and the catalytic converter was red like hit coals the Dodge place is telling me its my flex plate? I think they are misdiagnosing the issue because before the sugar issue I had no problems with my van?
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