Caravan/Voyager :: 2005 Dodge Blowing Smoke When Cold Even In Warm Weather
Jan 26, 2013
Alright, dodge grand caravan 3.8. Year: 05' ... Just broke 100k miles on this thing, last time i changed the plugs i noticed plug 2 had oil all down in it. I completely forgot about the problem cause i got side tracked with bad sway bar bushings. Anyways, what is the cause of the oil leakage? It has gotten so bad that I am blowing smoke when its cold, even is warm weather. There is also caked on oil and dirt on a lot of the parts down the front left side of the motor. Blown head gasket? Bad valve cover gasket? I want the best way to approach this . The smoke is white, but not enough smoke to be a completely blown head gasket.
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I have a 2005 dodge caravan and today after taking my kids kids to school, I noticed white smoke coming from the hood of the engine. I managed to get home and check it out. With further inspection, smelled like some type of fluid is burning off I can't tell if it's oil or anti freeze. There seems to be some type of condensation in the inside of my van on the passenger windshield. I looked to check to see any leaks inside on the floor mat and underneath the van itself and nothing. What seems to be the issue?
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1996 Plymouth Voyager ... My Van has about 90,000 miles and runs good. The heat worked great last year but is just blowing cold air out this year. I do not know where to start looking for the problem. I do not have a over-heating problem and it blows air out just as strong as before this problem. I had to replace the battery last month, could that have anything to do with this problem?
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My van has quit me finally. It only has 98,000 original miles on it. Right now the car really smells like it is loading up and not properly burning fuel. Also a huge amount of white smoke is coming from the exhaust pipe. The oil pressure is good. could it be as simple as new plugs and plug wires, coil pack etc.
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Anti-theft alarm was triggered inadvertently and now won't allow vehicle to start. When ignition is turned there is just a click...does not turn over. Is there a reset???
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Well, my saga continues on my intermittent AC problem on my 99 f350 v10. As before, the AC blows cold but mysteriously stops working on occasion when climbing a grade or stopping at a light in warm weather. I bought a gage kit and runs ~ 45/250psi on the low/high gauges. Clutch is stopping and the metal tube from the accumulator tank runs warm when this occurs.
Seems like the problem occurs when the under hood temp reaches a certain level. Thought it might have been one of the switches but the pressure seems to be OK when these problems are occurring. What/how to check to find the problem? some of my thoughts are:
1. Wire a light in the clutch engagement circuit to see if the problem is in the compressor clutch coil not working when powered up or some heat related failure of the wiring continuity.
2. Check the Hi and low pressure switches for continuity when this is happening. to do this I need to know a few things- location of the high pressure switch low press in on the accumulator) and whether the switch should be open or closed in normal operation. Also can the switches be replaced without losing the charge in the system?
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My Prius has 198K, runs great and has been trouble free. This week it started acting up. The AC will run for a few minutes, blowing very cold, then will blow warm air for a period of time, perhaps 10 minutes, then will blow cold again for a few minutes. It will repeat this several times, then will blow cold until the end of the trip, about another 30 minutes.
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I've been fighting with these vehicle for months, and I've only been able to narrow down the list of possible issues. Tried replacing the ignition switch, battery terminals and cables, starter, and even a PCM since according to the dealership it was bad. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and they're all ok.
I'm getting fuel and spark, but no crank from the starter. The voltage going to the hot post on the starter is 12.7, but the voltage from the igniton wire is only reading around .5-.6, fluctuating a bit. Before I spend the money on taking it to a mechanic I wanted to know what your opinions were on what the next step is. I know a bit about electrical systems in cars but I'm no expert.
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I'm about to put a new tailgate on a 98 Dodge Caravan. I got hit in the back and I bought a new back door at the junk yard. It looks pretty easy, but I thought I would touch base here and there are a couple of potentially tricky parts...
Does that wire bundle have a block somewhere that you can plug, or am I going to be splicing them one by one? (I don't have power locks. I have windshield wiper, back door inside light, license plate light, heat wires in the glass.) The other tricky part..changing the lock.
I think that's all.. the bolts and star screws look pretty straightforward. I got it used with 48k miles a couple years ago and I only have 75k now. It was a government car.
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I was riding down the interstate this morning and had my cruise control set at 70mph. all of a sudden the cruise just turn off. I went to hit the gas pedal and there was nothing. No check engine light or anything, no spit, no sputter. I pulled off the side of the interstate and attempted to start the van. the engine turns over fine, but no start. all lights, radio work fine. car has fuel. it did not run hot.
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I have a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan and while I was driving it stopped on me. It will turn on but once you put it in gear it will turn off and wont turn back on. I have replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump.
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I have a 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with 58000 miles. The rear blower won't run with either the front controls or rear controls. I have checked the fuses and they looked ok.
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I did a tune up on my 3.3L Dodge Grand Caravan only to find the engine is vibrating heavily. This tune up included a new coil pack, plugs and wires.
I did happen to notice a separate thing when looking at the Crankshaft Pulley that it seemed to be wobbling while the engine was running.
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I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan, My AC unit works great. With the heater, it will work for 2-3 minutes, at which point it starts to blow cool air. I can leave it running, but it never gets warm again, if I turn the fan off for 3-5 minutes, when I turn it back on, I get a good amount of heat that goes for about 2-3 minutes before blowing cold air again.
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I'm having electrical issues in my 2006 Dodge Caravan. It started with the radio not working (even though the lights around the nobs and buttons light up) and the lock button doesn't work until the van is started. Now, the windshield wiper won't turn off, even after the van has been turned off.
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My problems in my ac begin last year around Summer. My ac was blowing hot and not cold and once it even blew some kind of smoke out of the vents. It only did that once and hasn't since. I went to good year and put some freon in the car. And it started to blow cold again and I was good for a while. Well I didn't need the cold air for the last few months till the heat started up again.
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I have an 02' Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L V6 (not flex fuel) .I have replaced the battery, alternator, sparkplugs/wires, fuel pump, fuel filter. All over time and now when i try to start the van it turns over strong sometimes starting then stalls out immediately. When I try to crank it sounds like metal on metal. Check engine light stays on,but i dont have an OBD reader.
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Drivers side not bowing hot air? We changed the blower motor and the resister on the passenger side. We hadn't tried to use the heat until last night when we needed the defrost and that's when we realized only heat on passenger side.
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When I drive through large puddles, or in the rain, my car doesn't turn. I believe this may be because my Splash Guard is missing.
I keep looking online to get a replacement, and they have one that looks exact, and another I have no clue if this would be the same or if it is a different piece all together.
The picture attached at 1.jpg is the one that looks exactly as the one that is gone from my car.
The second, is the one that I keep finding when I type in replacement splash guard.
Can this one be a proper substitute?
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I have a 97 dodge caravan engine 3.0. When I start to accelerate my engine fuse 20amp blows. I does not occur every time but yesterday, it did it 6 times and is now getting looked at. I am just curious on what causes this. I did recently have my spark plugs changed so I am thinking something may be arching.
I do have codes that previously came up for my fuel injectors (P0203, p0206). Another code I have is p1294 idle speed performance.
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I have an engine noise on my 2000 Dodge Caravan with the 3.3 engine. It sounds a lot like the grinding of a rotating part. It occurs at start up, momentarily, then goes away. If I drop it in gear and start doing low speed maneuvering in the driveway, it comes back. If I turn on the AC it comes back. In all cases, the noise goes away at around 1200 rpm.
The noise occurs again, when I shut the engine down.The engine performs and runs smooth and normal otherwise. No stalling, stumbling, or bad gas mileage to report.
I can "feel" the noise with my hand, when I put my hand on the ac compressor bracket, or the intake manifold, or the valve cover. I've tried the listening through the stick method, and it seems to be coming from the front area of the engine. But I can't be sure. It is something internal. Let me describe:
I thought it was my AC compressor or clutch going bad. The fact that my AC had stopped working well, and was making jet engine noises at high rpm supported me decide this. I replaced the compressor. The AC works great now, and the jet engine noises went away. But the grinding noise is still there. As described.
I wishfully thought it was the belt tensioner or idler pulley. I replaced both of those. Noise still was there. I pulled off the serpentine belt, and started the engine. It made the noise, very briefly as it started, then went away completely. It made the noise again briefly as I shut the motor off. So it's still there without any of the accessories turning.
The noise is loud and obnoxious at idle when under load. It just can't be good. I've read theories about similar sounding problems, saying they could be loose timing chain, bad oil pump, slapping pistons, crank journals, flexplate/flywheels cracked.
I'm going to try doing an oil system flush, and then I'll change it out with a little thicker oil. See if that makes any difference in the noise. Currently I'm running 5w-30 Mobile 1. I think. I'll let you know if it changes anything. I'm also thinking I want to make a short video of the car idling and making the noise for my video camera. I'll post that on youtube and link it here.
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