Caravan/Voyager :: 2005 - Can Hear Solenoid Click But No Starter Engagement
Jul 22, 2014
A couple of years after buying this I had problems with door locks and power windows. (No locking or unlocking or up/down) after looking this up as recommended I removed and replaced all the relays in the power distribution panel. (No fix) I next removed the battery so I could turn this power distribution panel over, then unplugged all the plugs and reseated them. (Wiring plugs) this got everything working. About 1 year later the same issue, with the same fix. About one more year later I encountered a starting issue... you could hear the solenoid click, but no starter engagement.
I checked the starter and it was good. So on a hunch I flipped the fuse panel over, reseated the wire plugs and it started right up, but it was intermittent for a few weeks. After several unplug and reseat the wires it was good again. Six months later it would spin the starter fine, but wouldn't start up. I first checked for fuel and it was good. Next I checked for spark and there wasn't any. Just a hunch... I went after the power distribution again and ended up taking it completely apart, also computer on the end of it, cleaned up all the connections and it fired right up.
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Our 2004 GX has been a great car, but is suddenly doing a number of strange things - like not start. When I say it won't start, I mean you can turn the key, the dash lights up, the steering wheel adjusts, radio goes on, etc, but then NOTHING! No solenoid "click", no starter noise, NOTHING! Does not crank at all. The car just turned 60,000 miles, is in great shape, lives in the garage and has never been in an accident.
After the first couple of times it did this, had the battery replaced, as it was getting close. and then the car started again. Until the next day. No rhyme or reason as to when it would do this. It might start 10 times in a row, then NOT start for a while, then magically fire up instantly, even after several key turns. I wiggled the key, tried a different key, shifted to Neutral, wiggled the shifter to try to rule out security interlock, bad ignition switch and shift interlock. No dice.
Did some more research and thought it might be the starter relay - banged on it and it started, so replaced that part. Didn't solve the problem. It also began to randomly die while idling (in park, or in drive). Sometimes it would re-start, sometimes not. The times it has done this, it typically dies after running or 15-20 minutes, but NOT ALWAYS.... Sometimes it will die once, then be good for the rest of the day. Sometimes it re-starts immediately, after a few minutes, or more recently only after sitting for a few hours.. So basically we can't use the car.
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I have a 2010 Accent with 106 000 km on it (Canada). A couple months ago (just as warranty expired) the car would not start. Nothing. Engine would not even turn over. Just a click of the starter solenoid. battery had a load test and is fine. Removed negative battery cable and cleaned the cable where it bolts to the body under the battery tray. Battery terminals were both cleaned at the same time.
Things worked fine for a couple weeks and the problem is back but worse. Everything in the car works fine when it won't start. If I continually turn the key to the start position it will eventually start to turn over and start fine. Sometimes it takes 20-30 turns of the key till it turns over and starts. When it does turn over and start, the engine turns over fine at the normal speed. Not slow like a weak battery.
Dealer is useless. Had a coil go a couple months back just before the warranty expired and they told us that the reason the coil went was that the car had been rust proofed by someone other than Hyundai.
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I've been fighting with these vehicle for months, and I've only been able to narrow down the list of possible issues. Tried replacing the ignition switch, battery terminals and cables, starter, and even a PCM since according to the dealership it was bad. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and they're all ok.
I'm getting fuel and spark, but no crank from the starter. The voltage going to the hot post on the starter is 12.7, but the voltage from the igniton wire is only reading around .5-.6, fluctuating a bit. Before I spend the money on taking it to a mechanic I wanted to know what your opinions were on what the next step is. I know a bit about electrical systems in cars but I'm no expert.
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I have a 91 grand voyager an every time I hook up battery there is a click noise coming from the relays behind the alternator near dash. I'm also having battery drain issues also an had alternator an battery tested, ok. Is this click from relay draining battery and what relay could it be? I switched them an had same click .
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I recently bought a used 1994 Plymouth Grand Voyager. The other day I went to start the van, and nothing happened- it clicked, and all the lights and horn were functioning, but it wouldn't turn over. I got under the car and found that the starter was hot, so I went to the auto parts store and bought a new starter. I put it in, and drove it home, and all was well. The next day I got on the highway and discovered that the van would not get out of limp mode- it wouldn't shift into a higher gear and the RPMs were building higher. I got off and took side streets home.
I disconnected the battery for a good while and re-connected it, and things were fine for a short while, but it developed the problem again.
I intend on checking the relays under the hood, checking electrical connections, and getting a trans fluid change soon. Is replacing the starter at all related to the limp mode issue?
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I have a 2005 F350 w/6.0 turbo diesel. Had starter replaced last spring. Went to store recently, came out & truck starter would just wind and whine, no flywheel engagement. Mechanic replaced Napa starter under warranty and now the starter whines when just trying to connect the battery(s) without even turning the key. I did try several attempts at starting truck when stranded at the local store, with no results but starter whining. Could I have created a dead short some where, and where would be a good place to start?? How do you get a schematic of the starting system?
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So here it is. My car wouldn't start, when i turn the key i hear a click, but the engine wont even turn over. Knee-jerk reaction was the battery, so i hooked up the battery to a charger. tried the quick jump setting, nothing. So i trickle charged it all night, nothing. I had the battery checked by O'Reilly Auto Parts, they said it was fine and fully charged (it better be after a night long charge!) Next i thought the starter, so i replaced the starter and still, when i turn the key the car wont even turn over. I heard it could be the solenoid, would this make sense? I also heard (or read rather in an answer to a similar question on this forum) that if it is the solenoid that you can tap the starter with a hammer while you try to start the car- still, it makes a single click when i turn the key and wont turn over.
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2005 town country, on interstate, cruise a 85, drives smooth, then vibrates pretty good, it will vibrate for a few seconds then smooth, then vibrate. the vibration is felt everywhere, steering wheel, seats, even the outside mirrors vibrate, at 60 we don't feel it much, at 45 nothing. we notice when coming to a slow stop or just scooting up in traffic that it seems to have a little wobble to it too.
All brakes and rotors and all motor and transmission mounts are new, struts, strut mounts, sway bar, sway bar end links and bushings are new, have had it checked and nobody can find anything wrong. no clunking noise moving the tires left to right and up and down. alignment is perfect. the tires are crappy but am thinking if it was a tire problem it would vibrate all the time and not on and off. its never been wrecked either. it is a 3.8, front and rear sway bars, long wheel base, nivomat rear.
Wheel bearings? I don't know but would think they'd make noise moving the tires back and forth and side to side. and hear no clunking over bumps at any speed.
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2005 GC. My headlights work some of the time. All all other lights work fine. Turning the switch on and off repeatedly sometimes get the lights on but sometime I just have to wait/drive abit before they come on. They also do not shut off automatically after the alotted time.
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I have a 2005 dodge caravan and today after taking my kids kids to school, I noticed white smoke coming from the hood of the engine. I managed to get home and check it out. With further inspection, smelled like some type of fluid is burning off I can't tell if it's oil or anti freeze. There seems to be some type of condensation in the inside of my van on the passenger windshield. I looked to check to see any leaks inside on the floor mat and underneath the van itself and nothing. What seems to be the issue?
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Dealer replaced rack,twice. Still thumping,they installed new struts and 4 sway bar links and bushings same thump still there. I unhooked swap bar links and tied them to brake line and backed it out is my shop and thump is still there and sounds like both sides. This van has 56,000 miles on it and the ball joints and control arms feel and look tight. Is there anything about how frame mounts that might cause this?
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I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan with a heater blower that doesn't seem to be working. Whether the heater knob is on low or high, it does nothing, but you can feel a little heat coming out, though. I was told it may be a resistor behind the glove box. I've already checked the fuse, and it seems OK. What do I do?
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Anti-theft alarm was triggered inadvertently and now won't allow vehicle to start. When ignition is turned there is just a click...does not turn over. Is there a reset???
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First, about a month ago the gas gauge started to malfunction. The low fuel light will come on and the gauge will show low even though it has nearly half a tank left. When will fill it the gauge only goes to 7/8 full.
Second, today is started stalling when I press down on the pedal. If I wait a few minutes it will restart. Has stalled twice but then will run fine.
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Alright, dodge grand caravan 3.8. Year: 05' ... Just broke 100k miles on this thing, last time i changed the plugs i noticed plug 2 had oil all down in it. I completely forgot about the problem cause i got side tracked with bad sway bar bushings. Anyways, what is the cause of the oil leakage? It has gotten so bad that I am blowing smoke when its cold, even is warm weather. There is also caked on oil and dirt on a lot of the parts down the front left side of the motor. Blown head gasket? Bad valve cover gasket? I want the best way to approach this . The smoke is white, but not enough smoke to be a completely blown head gasket.
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P0032 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
I have read that in 2005 chrysler changed the ohms levels for the oxygen sensors and may need to have bcm reflashed to get a new oxygen sensor to work wheither its dealer item or not, is this true if i were to buy a mopar oxygen sensor? aftermarket is out of the question being the ohm readings would require me to spend some time at the dealer. is this code a defective sensor? or could it be related to the thermostat being faulty? am not low on antifreeze and temp gauge reads normal.
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Just got my passat not to long ago and its having stupid electrical issues... the window motor is not working, but you can here the motor clicking.. and its having issues with the dome lights.
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I have had my car for a week and use the trunk every day. Tonight the trunk wouldn't open. Brought it to service and they were just closing, but technician looked quickly and didn't know problem and told me to come back tomorrow. I called Blue Link and they didn't have a clue either. I tried the remote, the trunk release in the car and the release under the trunk itself. I hear a click but it won't open. I even tried the second remote.
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Just purchased my 1st SUV - 2012 Nissan Murano. Rides good, handles great. Seats a little firm. Problem: when the radio is on (not really very loud), can't hear the click of the turn signal -- it's set at a very low volume. As it doesn't stop clicking after changing lanes, how can I increase the sound of the click so I'm not one of those goofballs driving down the freeway making a perpetual left turn?
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I am mostly a domestic car guy, but recently been working on some Toyotas for friends. The situation:
'95 Celica ST, 2.2 5 speed, 200K miles. Died when coming to a light. The car was towed to my friend's house. Battery was completely dead. Replaced battery and checked alternator and starter at Advanced Auto. Both checked good.
Car would not crank or even click the solenoid. Changed out both positive and negative cables. No start. Checked solenoid terminal, 0 volts. Replaced starter relay in fusebox. Still so volts at starter solenoid terminal. What else should I check other than the ignition switch? Not familiar with the wiring, how should I check?
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