Caravan/Voyager :: 2004 / 3.8 - Significant Intermittent Missing
Feb 19, 2016
I recently acquired a 04 grand caravan with 130k on it today i got off freeway and was sitting at light and i felt a pretty significant intermittent miss so i had it scanned and came back with those 2 codes and a previous evap code in wich i was aware of. Im gonna change plugs and wires in a.m. and possibly run sea foam threw brake booster vacuum. If there's something elese i should look at for those codes p0300 & p0302! I tried to clear codes and cel stayed on didn't go off and come back on it stayed illuminated??
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The other evening my 2006 Town & County 3.3L would not accelerate well and I though I detected a miss while trying to accelerate. Also, when I got it up to around 55mph and would try to accelerate to pass, the engine would kick clear up to over 4000rpm and barley accelerate. I checked the plugs, the were fine, changed the plug wires didn't make any difference. The van had about a half a tank of gas in it, so I went ahead and filled it up, and that didn't change anything. I let the van sit overnight and the next afternoon took it out on the road and it seems to accelerate fine now.
The only thing I'm still noticing at this point is that with the transmission in park, when I try to rev the engine up to around 3000 rpm, it starts cutting off/missing very badly at around 2800 rpm.
My 99 grand voyager with 3.3L does not do, so I'm wondering if still have some kind of issue on my 06 or is there something on the newer vans that limits the rpm in park, it doesn't seem to be cutting out or missing at that rpm range now while driving.
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2007 Grand Caravan 3.8L 100K mi. New noise chirp-chirp-chirp Sometimes an intermittent rumble at idle seems to be in synch with the serpentine belt especially when the A/C is engaged. I changed the serpentine belt which did not look bad and did not emit the noise. Noise seems strongest at the alternator when I use a stethescope. I noticed the pulley seems a little loose with the belt removed, but the bolt is tight. This alternator has an overrunning alternator decoupler (OAD) pulley so maybe the loosness is normal. The bearings seem smooth when I spin it with the belt off, and it charges fine. Just the noise is bothersome. Do I need to change out the alternator or just the OAD pulley?
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I have an 02 Dodge Caravan 3.3 L Flex . It had initially stalled and wouldn't start. Check engine light was on. Had it towed to a Cert Mech. He said it needed a "Major" tune-up. I let him do this. It included: New Coilpak, plugs, plug wires, cam-sensor, crank sensor. That's what was on 1st invoice.
It started, but was still running very rough. He then recommend a new PCM. After choking on his estimate, and paying the initial invoice, I decided to let someone else have at it. Mech # 2 installed a "Rebuilt" PCM, New Battery, and a PCV Valve.
It runs good now BUT, ...It has this weird idle Misfire. The only time it happens is at a stop light when at idle. And it doesnt do it all the time. This check engine light is not on... At this point, all I want to do is sell it.I have over 1K in repair costs and still can't get rid of this misfire.
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I purchased a 2004 Chrysler Town & Country Dec 2003. I noticed an intermittent problem with my gear shift indicator lights PDRNL were all lighting up when I would start the vehicle in February 2004. I would have to play with the shift lever a few times to get it into gear.
On Feb 26, 2004 the vehicle would not start at all, would not even turn over. The vehicle had to be towed to the dealership. It had 3500 miles at the time. The error code was PO706 check shifter signal. They said it was the transmission range sensor and replaced it. I had no problems for 2000 miles until I was in northern Michigan and the gear shift indicator lights started doing the same thing.
I brought it to a local Chrysler dealership the next morning and they scanned the following codes PO1791 loss of prime PO705 check shifter signal BCM stored TCM message not received FCM stored TCM communication fault DSD stored incomplete power voltage. This dealership checked connections and wiring harness which were okay so advised me to take it back to my dealership at home since they would have to tear the whole van down to figure out what was wrong and any parts they would need would not get there before I left for home.
Luckily, I made it home with only one incident with these lights coming on. My dealership had the same error code PO706 and also PO444. Here is what their repair order states "DTC PO706 shift signal fault. Front pump allowing torque convertor to bleed down IPM internally shorted causing intermittent shift signal errors and PO444 and PO706. Scan and perform trans diag and fluid level full R & I the transmission R & I the pan and valve body replace the filter R & I the front pump and replace the front pump and torque convertor called STAR about intermittent loss of shift signal was told to replace the IPM. Replace the IPM (power distribution center) retest ok at this time."
So here is my question....I am very worried with all that I am reading about transmission problems and this van has only 6500 miles and all these parts that they have had to replace already is really scaring me!
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My 2004 Caravan lost power to windshield washer motor and headlights, after checking under fuse box, I swapped over the relay marked headlights washer , still nothing. I disconnected the power module at the front of the fuse box by removing four torx head screws. Removed it by rocking it a it out towards the front of the van. I cleaned the terminals and replaced it. Seems to have solved the problem .
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We just purchased a 2012 Grand Caravan and was wondering where to get a key and program it. I know the key will be an arm and a leg if i get it from the dealer. Is there a tutorial that tells how to program it as well?
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2006 Caravan. Heat comes and goes every minute or so. Also noticed the temp gauge goes from normal operating range to cold and back again frequently. Hasn't overheated. Does that sound like a thermostat problem?
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On my 2005 3.3L Grand Caravan the ABS light keeping coming on. I inspected the sensors for the front and used my compressor to give them a quick puff of air to get rid of dust. The light went off for about 5 days. Now it is back on.
How does one read ABS codes? If I knew for sure that the problem is a speed sensor and which one I could clean or replace the faulty sensor.
If I clean to sensor are there any special precautions I need to take? As far as I could see they didn't look very dirty.
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What am i missing i have a terrible clunk in the front end when i hit bumps. I thought it was the struts and mounting plates so they are new . no change Stabilizer links were tight but i replaced them as well. Everything else seems tight but the noise has not changed with any of the above mentioned repairs.
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I'm having trouble with my 96' 3.0L, its kind of crazy its intermittent and while driving the engines surges one or twice and then dies... when I try to crank it up again cranks but don't starts if I try again it wont even crank ( no starter winding up ) what I noticed is that is I'm driving when it dies my check engine light disappears for a while and if I connect my OBD 2 reader does not link up with the ECU if I wait a while and I crank it up again its starts and the while cranking up I can hear a bang noise from the engine compartment drives side and then after a couple of minutes dies again...
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I have a 2006 Grand Caravan 3.8 that just stalled at a set of lights yesterday and have had it towed back to the shop here. I turns over and starts briefly then will die and then just turn over strongly. I cleaned the throttle body and IAC but this did not work. I connected fuel pressure tester and have no pressure when turn key on or turn it over.
The fuse and relay check out ok, so I'm thinking bad or clogged fuel pump.
I have a 2004 Caravan out back that I have used for other small parts to interchange before and was wondering whether or not the fuel pumps between these two are compatible. Be a lot of work to pull the one off the one in the yard, only to find out its not going to fit.
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142k, having some problems lately, the van won't accelerate now and again, moreso when the engine isn't up to temp, but lately it's gotten more and more prevalent. I have done some recent and needed maintenance in hopes of fixing the issue, but to no avail so far. I've replaced the plugs and wires, air and fuel filters, and both upper and lower O2 sensors (first replaced the upper with a Bosch, almost immediately had problems with P0134 code, so instead went with a Denso, hasn't come back yet). I checked fuel pressure, 60 psi sitting in the shop, the cat doesn't seem to be clogged, and it idles fine all day long.
Problem resembles running out of fuel, or more maybe like I'm letting off the gas, but my cheap scanner says the TPS is working fine, and I was watching the TPS percentage as I was driving it was reading normally. As I'm accelerating slowly from a stop, it'll start to cut out around 30 mph, but speed doesn't seem to matter, if I accelerate sharply it just bogs and slows down, if it does shift up a gear, the rpms will jump to about 5k, then slowly decrease even if I've got my foot on the floor. I keep coming back to the fuel pump, but I don't have a long enough hose to have it connected while test driving. Considering removing the hood so I can prop the gauge up so I can see it while driving. I am getting a P0132 code now, but I'm more concerned with the accelerating issue.
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Intermittently the ABS Light is coming on. 84,000 miles.
Brakes have been changed once, 10,000 miles ago.
Minor clunk sound when light is on.
Light goes off after van has set, brakes work fine at that point.
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I've been fighting with these vehicle for months, and I've only been able to narrow down the list of possible issues. Tried replacing the ignition switch, battery terminals and cables, starter, and even a PCM since according to the dealership it was bad. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and they're all ok.
I'm getting fuel and spark, but no crank from the starter. The voltage going to the hot post on the starter is 12.7, but the voltage from the igniton wire is only reading around .5-.6, fluctuating a bit. Before I spend the money on taking it to a mechanic I wanted to know what your opinions were on what the next step is. I know a bit about electrical systems in cars but I'm no expert.
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Someone put sugar in my gas tank so I had it worked on at the Dodge place they replaced my fuel pump..fuel filter cleaned the tank..flushed the lines cleaned my injectors and replaced the plugs..I went to pick it up I barely made it a mile down the road I had no power and a lady flagged me down to tell me to pull over because I had sparks coming from the bottom of my van I looked under the van and the catalytic converter was red like hit coals the Dodge place is telling me its my flex plate? I think they are misdiagnosing the issue because before the sugar issue I had no problems with my van?
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2005 town country, on interstate, cruise a 85, drives smooth, then vibrates pretty good, it will vibrate for a few seconds then smooth, then vibrate. the vibration is felt everywhere, steering wheel, seats, even the outside mirrors vibrate, at 60 we don't feel it much, at 45 nothing. we notice when coming to a slow stop or just scooting up in traffic that it seems to have a little wobble to it too.
All brakes and rotors and all motor and transmission mounts are new, struts, strut mounts, sway bar, sway bar end links and bushings are new, have had it checked and nobody can find anything wrong. no clunking noise moving the tires left to right and up and down. alignment is perfect. the tires are crappy but am thinking if it was a tire problem it would vibrate all the time and not on and off. its never been wrecked either. it is a 3.8, front and rear sway bars, long wheel base, nivomat rear.
Wheel bearings? I don't know but would think they'd make noise moving the tires back and forth and side to side. and hear no clunking over bumps at any speed.
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Changed input and output sensor, replaced solenoid pack, cam and crank sensor. Runs good code on odometer 1684 p700.
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ABS light is on and the auto trac is off and will not turn back on. What this could be?
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I start my van and open the hood to check Coolant and I notice gas spilling out engine and running down the side close to my power steering pump. So I stop the vehicle and notice gas sprayed on different parts by the back spark plugs and a little area by sensor.
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Changed oil on the 2014 grand caravan, replaced the filter. afterwards the oil light comes on at low rpm goes out when u accelerate, and the engine light is on. Took it to autozone, it is saying, that the oil sensor switch is stuck.
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