Caravan/Voyager :: 2003 Van Suddenly Will Not Attempt To Start / No Crank
Sep 20, 2007
I have a 2003 Grand Caravan, 3.3L, 75,000 miles. The van suddenly will not attempt to start. The strange thing is that when the key is turned to RUN I cannot hear the fuel pump. The normal 2 or so second on growl at the initial key turn is not there. When turned to start the clock on the radio goes out and no crank. I have found that the start relay is not passing on the signal to the starter. If I jump across the two pins going to the starter, the starter cranks fine. The van will still not start because I believe it has no fuel,due to the fuel pump not running. I thought first that it must be the neutral safety switch but does that have any control of the fuel pump also? I have found that the neutral safety switch requires that I remove the valve body for access.
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1st problem is shifting from 1st to 2nd and sometimes from 2nd to 3rd though, 2nd to 3rd is not as bad as from 1st to 2nd. It stumbles and gets really bad if I don't let up on the gas. After the initial shudder it will go into 2nd just fine. I also have to gun the gas a little bit when I first start the car, or it will just sit there and idle and never go into gear.
2nd and more annoying is that it stalls after driving around a bit. It happens on freeway or city. It doesn't stutter or anything the rpm's drop to 0 and it just stalls and won't start up for a 5 - 10 minutes or so.
Codes pulled are P0731, & P0736. The transmission was replaced about 2 years ago with a refurbished one. Could it be going out again already? The guy at Autozone suggested replacing the TSS (Transmission Speed Sensor?) to see if that was the problem. I have not done this yet, but plan to.
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I've been fighting with these vehicle for months, and I've only been able to narrow down the list of possible issues. Tried replacing the ignition switch, battery terminals and cables, starter, and even a PCM since according to the dealership it was bad. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and they're all ok.
I'm getting fuel and spark, but no crank from the starter. The voltage going to the hot post on the starter is 12.7, but the voltage from the igniton wire is only reading around .5-.6, fluctuating a bit. Before I spend the money on taking it to a mechanic I wanted to know what your opinions were on what the next step is. I know a bit about electrical systems in cars but I'm no expert.
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Working on a 2001 caravan. Been sitting for about 6 months with no battery installed. decided to work on it. Got a new battery, and when I connected it the alarm went off. I dont have panic button for it so I unhooked the bat.
I think I hooked the bat back up with the thicker gray key in the ignition. I think that is the key with the chip.
The alarm did not sound but the engine will not crank, seems like it it in some security mode blocking start up. I tried cycling the key in the driver door but that did not work.
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I have an 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan that cut off shortly after starting the other night. Every time I try to start it, it will crank and then stall almost immediately. I tested the fuel pressure and it was strong so I hooked up a pocketscan and my van starts and runs normally while the pocketscan is hooked up. I even took it for a drive around the neighborhood. As soon as I unplug the pocketscan my engine shuts off. The only code on the scanner was for the O2 sensor(not something that would shut my engine off.)
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Intermittent problem, occurred 4 times during past 4 weeks, always during wet/rainy/damp weather. Three times when car was sitting overnight, once at work in parking lot after a 12 hour work shift. Each time, the engine started 5 or 6 times then died like someone turned the key off two seconds after the engine started. Then the engine would not crank or turn over, just some clicking near the relay box under the hood. Lights, power windows, etc. all work fine. Battery voltage OK. Jump starting or battery charger makes no difference. Note: With key in "run" position, no display to odometer though all idiot lights light up like normal.
1st time, after about 15-20 minutes, car started. 2nd time, towed to my mechanic (who thought security system lock out) then a second tow to dealer. Dealer found power into power distribution center but none out. Replaced PDC. Car worked fine for 1 week. Same problem twice since repair. First post repair failure I had van re-towed to dealer. Of course, it started for them. Left overnight 2 more nights. Started for them every time. They say it is a "problem with computers" but they don't know exactly what. They also say the Alarm set Dash light is coming on with the rest of the dash lights and that is a no-no. 2nd post repair failure happened this morning. Tried locking door to reset alarm. No change. Locked doors, opened rear hatch. Lights flashed but horn did not sound. When car is working and I do that (open hatch with other doors locked), in addition to lights flashing, horn beeps! I also disconnected the positive battery terminal, waited 10 minutes, reconnected and attempted restart. No change. Car still won't start and odometer display does not work.
Van has 110,000 miles. Otherwise in fantastic shape and runs great (though only gets about 20MPG). Owned van for 2 months and have driven about 7,000 miles. 1st problem I've encountered (other than a very uncomfortable drivers seat - feels like a spring is sprung!)
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2001 F250 5.4 ... I'm losing my mind chasing a Gremlin. I've been having mostly intermittent starting issues with my truck. I've had the truck for a little over a year, after someone totaled my previous one.
It occasionally wouldn't start on the first attempt, but it got really bad in the last couple weeks.
I first thought it was a faulty inertia switch or wiring in that vicinity, as at one point after manually tripping and resetting the cutoff switch it would start, UNTIL I put the trim panel back. At this point I think that may have been a coincidence.
I eventually probed the switch and it tests as it should electrically.
I put in a new fuel filter and things were fine for several days, but it acted up again. That time was last Saturday. Got it to start and all was good until tonight. Now it won't go, and I've tried so many times that I can see the battery power is dropping.
Last Saturday I pulled the relays from behind the radio and cleaned 'em up real nice. Also, just to check another variable I swapped the two that matched.
I'm about ready to change the fuel pump, but I've heard so many people say they did that but the problem was something else. Not only will it costs hundreds of dollars, its cold out and we'll have to drop the tank in the driveway.
In addition to the relay, inertia switch and fuse, I have found some mention of faulty fuel pressure regulators causing issues. I'll pry the vacuum line off in the morning to see if I can detect fuel residue on the vacuum side. (There is some noticeable corrosion on the fuel rail in that area).
I REALLY want to make sure I rule everything else out before spending hours under the truck in freezing weather dropping the tank and changing the sending unit out.
On key-on there is a noise from the gas tank, but someone else listening described it as a click but no whirring.
I do hear the relay clicking behind the radio. (Also, I pulled them again tonight and put a meter to them. With 12V on the primary side, they click and the other side shows continuity on diode check, and about .2 Ohm on resistance mode.)
I went through a lot of trouble to get my spare out looking for the fuel control module before finding out my truck is about 3 years too old to have one too. What else to check?
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I have changed the oil, all filters, spark plugs and wires but the problem is still there. At start up it vibrates and sputters, gets worse at take off, lessens at 55mph but if i floor the gas it stops. Takes a lot more power to reach speeds. As much as 3000 rpm to get to 45 and almost 4000 rpm to get to 55mph. How i can fix this?
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I just replaced the transmission in my 2000 3.3L Grand Voyager and now it won't start. It started fine when I drove it into the shop. The battery is good, the cables are ok. The starter worked good up to this point. I checked all the connections to make sure they are tight. I replaced the transmission because reverse went out.
When I turn on the key, the shift letters (PND32) appear on the instrument panel, but the little circle that shows what gear it is in does not appear. When you turn the key to the run position, the circle should be around the P to show it is in park.
When I turn the key to start, nothing happens. No clicks or anything. The next thing I am going to do is see if there is power to the starter when the key is in the start position. Where to start looking?
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I have a 99 Voyager with 88,000 miles. Brand new battery 12/12/06- won't start 3 weeks later - cleaned & protected battery connectors - still no start if left for more then 4 hours undriven Battery tested fine- being drained approx 2 amps- something left on...? Now there is a clicking sound under the dash before trying to start. Could it be some type of relay being left open or fuse or
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Bought this cheap 93 grand caravan 3.3 with about 350,000km about 750km ago and it had a bit of a whining sound from the start, thought it was normal for it's life. Last night I was taking my daughter and infant grand-daughter home when there was a terrible clunking, grinding and rattling sound coming from the engine. It was about -20 outside so I decided to just limp it home, but when I got a block from my daughters house I lost power steering. I checked under the hood an saw the belt on the left side with all the pulleys had come off and only one pulley near the bottom was spinning. after trying to spin the other pulleys i noticed one wouldn't spin ether way,and was really hot. thought it might have seized up and threw the belt. Is there a pulley in there that's not supposed to move freely, and if not what should I do now?
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Changed input and output sensor, replaced solenoid pack, cam and crank sensor. Runs good code on odometer 1684 p700.
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We have a 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan and has a whistling noise when starting up? We are in Wisconsin and its damn cold. It only does it when its cold out. Once the engine warms up it goes away. But my wife is freaking out about it. I am thinking it might be something with the air intake but not sure.
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We bought a new battery the van would not spark when the battery was fully charged but when the battery gets low it start to spark...
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When we turn the wheel of the van sharply in either direction, it produces a distinct clunk from the rear. This isn't the AWD engagement symptom I've read about - it seems to be strictly connected to a sudden change of direction, and the noise is definitely coming from the rear. I can also get the noise to happen when going over a large bump, such as a speed bump, but a moderately sharp (so nothing you wouldn't do in normal driving) flick of the wheel produces the noise very easily and consistently.
I doubt it's the axles, because the way we drive this van, the AWD is actually seldom engaged, so the axles have seen very little wear. Could it be the rubber bushings that support the leaf springs? It's such a simple rear suspension design that there isn't a whole lot to go wrong/replace, but I don't want to start throwing parts at it without at least a stab at a diagnosis.
The van has 123,000 miles, and has been doing this for a long time, and it doesn't seem to be getting any worse, but I'd like to get to the bottom of it. Otherwise, the van has been amazingly trouble-free.
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I have a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan and while I was driving it stopped on me. It will turn on but once you put it in gear it will turn off and wont turn back on. I have replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump.
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I have a 2003 Chrysler Town and Country and my problem started with no reverse after starting car. If I pushed it back and drove forward 10 or 15 feet then reverse would work fine and shift properly. As long as I could drive forward first then reverse would work. This was like this for a few days then the vehicle wouldn't move at all. There wasn't any error codes. The fluid is full and clean.
When the van was about a year old I took it to the dealer with harsh shifting and they said there was a broken wire to the trans, I am thinking this is when they came out with the 3 wire slice people where talking about.
I wasn't needing the van so it has been sitting now for almost a year. Now I want to get it working again...
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I've tried putting new batteries in my mini van and the battery goes dead after a day or 2. I've had it to the dealer before and they said it's a bad battery. which clearly it's not. I had a meter between the grounds on the battery and pulled all fuses under the hood and no change. I'm a quadriplegic and it's a nightmare when I go out with my aid to go to a doctors appointment and my van is dead. I don't have any money for the dealer again. I don't think the chrysler dealer even looked at it and took advantage of my situation. Its a 2003 Town country with only 29,000 miles. could it be the alternator drawing power when the car is off?
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Anti-theft alarm was triggered inadvertently and now won't allow vehicle to start. When ignition is turned there is just a click...does not turn over. Is there a reset???
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I have a 97 dodge caravan engine 3.0. When I start to accelerate my engine fuse 20amp blows. I does not occur every time but yesterday, it did it 6 times and is now getting looked at. I am just curious on what causes this. I did recently have my spark plugs changed so I am thinking something may be arching.
I do have codes that previously came up for my fuel injectors (P0203, p0206). Another code I have is p1294 idle speed performance.
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I purchased a 2004 Chrysler Town & Country Dec 2003. I noticed an intermittent problem with my gear shift indicator lights PDRNL were all lighting up when I would start the vehicle in February 2004. I would have to play with the shift lever a few times to get it into gear.
On Feb 26, 2004 the vehicle would not start at all, would not even turn over. The vehicle had to be towed to the dealership. It had 3500 miles at the time. The error code was PO706 check shifter signal. They said it was the transmission range sensor and replaced it. I had no problems for 2000 miles until I was in northern Michigan and the gear shift indicator lights started doing the same thing.
I brought it to a local Chrysler dealership the next morning and they scanned the following codes PO1791 loss of prime PO705 check shifter signal BCM stored TCM message not received FCM stored TCM communication fault DSD stored incomplete power voltage. This dealership checked connections and wiring harness which were okay so advised me to take it back to my dealership at home since they would have to tear the whole van down to figure out what was wrong and any parts they would need would not get there before I left for home.
Luckily, I made it home with only one incident with these lights coming on. My dealership had the same error code PO706 and also PO444. Here is what their repair order states "DTC PO706 shift signal fault. Front pump allowing torque convertor to bleed down IPM internally shorted causing intermittent shift signal errors and PO444 and PO706. Scan and perform trans diag and fluid level full R & I the transmission R & I the pan and valve body replace the filter R & I the front pump and replace the front pump and torque convertor called STAR about intermittent loss of shift signal was told to replace the IPM. Replace the IPM (power distribution center) retest ok at this time."
So here is my question....I am very worried with all that I am reading about transmission problems and this van has only 6500 miles and all these parts that they have had to replace already is really scaring me!
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