Caravan/Voyager :: 2003 - New Battery Goes Dead Overnight
Apr 23, 2016
I've tried putting new batteries in my mini van and the battery goes dead after a day or 2. I've had it to the dealer before and they said it's a bad battery. which clearly it's not. I had a meter between the grounds on the battery and pulled all fuses under the hood and no change. I'm a quadriplegic and it's a nightmare when I go out with my aid to go to a doctors appointment and my van is dead. I don't have any money for the dealer again. I don't think the chrysler dealer even looked at it and took advantage of my situation. Its a 2003 Town country with only 29,000 miles. could it be the alternator drawing power when the car is off?
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So this is my wifes vehicle so I don't always get the whole story . I have seen this once or twice over the years. We have the 2008 T&C Touring 4.3L. Bought it brand new. Now we're up to 80k miles.
The problem is that sometimes after starting the van all off the accessories including lights gauges everything are completely dead. If I turn the van off and stay it again it will be fine. I'm thinking the electrical side of the ignition switch but its so random.
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My problem is similar to that of coyote54 back in 05. I have a 2001 Grand Caravan Sport. Instrument Cluster is dead, Information lights on top of dash are dead, Turn signals and Hazard lamps are not working. Found Hazard Lamp fuse to be blown. Replaced fuse and blows immediately indicating a short. Haynes describes a Turn Signal/Hazard Lamp and Daytime Running Light Module located on the junction block but there is no such animal that I can find. One of the responses to coyote54 described a Hazard relay located within the steering column........again, I do not see anything on the column that resembles a relay. Is there a hazard flasher/relay on the 2001 GC.
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Earlier this year had dead battery after sitting for a week. 5 year old battery so bought new one battery still goes dead randomly (overnight), instead of playing radio for a few minutes after key off, dash displays "system off to conserve power" ran it thru local repair place (ex ford dealer) nothing found. Voltage 14v at 1800 rpm, lights on". STILL goes dead randomly...
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Like the title says, if it sits over night the battery will be about dead. The cables were replaced 6 months ago and are in good shape. I could not find and bad spots on the wires I can get to. One odd thing to note, with the key out of the switch I opened the passenger door to check the glove box light and the truck started chiming like I had opened the drivers door with the key still in the switch. Would that indicate maybe the key switch could be the issue?
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2005 f150 xlt supercrew. Battery dead overnight. New battery installed, and it was drained after a few days use, then an overnight sit. I hooked up my meter as required to check for an amp draw. 5.87a draw. Disconnected alternator, no change. Started pulling fuses. Fuse #107 Power Door Lock(BSM) pulled drops down to 1.04a. Radio power fuse pulled also, drops to .033a. I have had a problem with the 6 disc changer trying to load, read, eject etc so I will be changing out the head unit. I am stumped as to what to try for the 107 fuse though.
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I have a 99 Voyager with 88,000 miles. Brand new battery 12/12/06- won't start 3 weeks later - cleaned & protected battery connectors - still no start if left for more then 4 hours undriven Battery tested fine- being drained approx 2 amps- something left on...? Now there is a clicking sound under the dash before trying to start. Could it be some type of relay being left open or fuse or
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The battery light came on, alt not charging. I have taken it off twice and had it checked, both times I had it checked it showed good, when I put it back on it charged for a bit and then the light came back on and it showed no charging at the battery. Second time the place checked it they ran the check cycle 4 times in a row to see if it had a problem when the electronics started warming up... still showed all green.
I thought perhaps the wires going to the alt, so I had the wife start the van up and I moved the wires around going to the alt to see if it made the batt light flicker, no joy. (real fun getting your hand back there while the van is running)
The large wire shows batt voltage where it hooks on to the alt, running or not...... the two prong plug that goes into the alt shows no voltage unhooked with the key on, and no voltage plugged in with the key on or running.
I have been told there is a control unit that controls the output of the alternator. I have checked every fuse in the fusebox under the dash and in the engine compartment. Fuseable link on big wire going to the alt should be good as I do get battery voltage to the alt from the battery, correct?
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I am about 600 miles from home and when I was driving on the intertsate the battery light came on. I am in northern Maine where there are long stretches of nothing. I checked to make sure the belt was on and it runs fine. When I got to civilization I shut it off and it started and the light went out. Now I don't know if I should trust it or try and get to a dealer 70 miles away?
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Working on a 2001 caravan. Been sitting for about 6 months with no battery installed. decided to work on it. Got a new battery, and when I connected it the alarm went off. I dont have panic button for it so I unhooked the bat.
I think I hooked the bat back up with the thicker gray key in the ignition. I think that is the key with the chip.
The alarm did not sound but the engine will not crank, seems like it it in some security mode blocking start up. I tried cycling the key in the driver door but that did not work.
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Just changed the battery on a '98 Grand Caravan 3.3. In the process of tightening the positive terminal I accidentally touched the wrench to the negative. There was a spark, of course, but otherwise no biggie. However, now the HVAC indicator lights, including the rear wiper, defroster, etc. indicator lights, all blink continuously until about 15 minutes of driving, then they return to normal. I disconnected the battery thinking that I needed to clear the PCM but the blinking always returns. Is this some sort of manual code reading deal? If so there's no mention of it in the Haynes manual.
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We bought a new battery the van would not spark when the battery was fully charged but when the battery gets low it start to spark...
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So my radiator fans were staying on until my battery died and my car was completely cooled down and off. I was told it was a sticking relay so I replaced it and the fans still won't come on. I unplugged the coolant temp sensor and the fans came on so I know its not the motors or anything.
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I bought some long beams at the local lumber yard. So drove home with the rear cargo door open. The ABS light went on brakes were pulsing mildly and making an odd sound. I cant see why the rear cargo door would have any connection with the ABS system so I assume that's a coincidence.I took the van to the local car store they scanned the code. It scanned code 4 indicating the passenger front sensor. I replaced the sensor but the ABS light is still on. Is there a reset function to clear the code disconnecting the battery didn't work? Or am I looking at another component failure?
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Changed input and output sensor, replaced solenoid pack, cam and crank sensor. Runs good code on odometer 1684 p700.
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When we turn the wheel of the van sharply in either direction, it produces a distinct clunk from the rear. This isn't the AWD engagement symptom I've read about - it seems to be strictly connected to a sudden change of direction, and the noise is definitely coming from the rear. I can also get the noise to happen when going over a large bump, such as a speed bump, but a moderately sharp (so nothing you wouldn't do in normal driving) flick of the wheel produces the noise very easily and consistently.
I doubt it's the axles, because the way we drive this van, the AWD is actually seldom engaged, so the axles have seen very little wear. Could it be the rubber bushings that support the leaf springs? It's such a simple rear suspension design that there isn't a whole lot to go wrong/replace, but I don't want to start throwing parts at it without at least a stab at a diagnosis.
The van has 123,000 miles, and has been doing this for a long time, and it doesn't seem to be getting any worse, but I'd like to get to the bottom of it. Otherwise, the van has been amazingly trouble-free.
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I have a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan and while I was driving it stopped on me. It will turn on but once you put it in gear it will turn off and wont turn back on. I have replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump.
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I have a 2003 Chrysler Town and Country and my problem started with no reverse after starting car. If I pushed it back and drove forward 10 or 15 feet then reverse would work fine and shift properly. As long as I could drive forward first then reverse would work. This was like this for a few days then the vehicle wouldn't move at all. There wasn't any error codes. The fluid is full and clean.
When the van was about a year old I took it to the dealer with harsh shifting and they said there was a broken wire to the trans, I am thinking this is when they came out with the 3 wire slice people where talking about.
I wasn't needing the van so it has been sitting now for almost a year. Now I want to get it working again...
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I have a 2003 Grand Caravan, 3.3L, 75,000 miles. The van suddenly will not attempt to start. The strange thing is that when the key is turned to RUN I cannot hear the fuel pump. The normal 2 or so second on growl at the initial key turn is not there. When turned to start the clock on the radio goes out and no crank. I have found that the start relay is not passing on the signal to the starter. If I jump across the two pins going to the starter, the starter cranks fine. The van will still not start because I believe it has no fuel,due to the fuel pump not running. I thought first that it must be the neutral safety switch but does that have any control of the fuel pump also? I have found that the neutral safety switch requires that I remove the valve body for access.
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I've fixed one source of water that was leaking into the passenger side footwell via the insulation surrounding the A/D drain line, but I still have a leak on the drivers side after a rain, and it's strange. Unlike the leak on the passenger side, this one is not coming along the firewall - the firewall is bone dry. The water seems to be coming vertically straight down, landing on the floor mat, but I can't tell where it's coming from. Not only is the firewall dry, but so is the carpet on all sides of the puddle that collects in the rubber floor mat.
Also, I haven't been able to create the leak by spraying water on the van - I washed it today, for example, and not a drop came in. But we had a light rain last night, and there was a puddle on the floor mat (good thing it's rubber) when I opened the door this morning. I've stuck my head up under the dash immediately after I had found water on the floor mat, but can't for the life of me see any sign of wetness above the location of the water on the floor mat.
And yes, I've cleaned out the drain lines under the cowl in front of the windshield. Where this mystery leak may be coming from?
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All the electrical components that are controlled by the ignition key/switch (radio, power windows, wipers, AC/fan) sometimes don't work when I turn the van on. However, when the key is turned back into accessories position, everything works - never a problem then. I had the ignition switch replaced a few months ago and that seemed to work (didn't occur as often) but now it's back to the way it was before. Just about every time I need the wipers (when it rains), they don't work nor do any of the other things I mentioned previously.
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