Caravan/Voyager :: 2003 - AWD Clunk From Rear When Turning
May 25, 2013
When we turn the wheel of the van sharply in either direction, it produces a distinct clunk from the rear. This isn't the AWD engagement symptom I've read about - it seems to be strictly connected to a sudden change of direction, and the noise is definitely coming from the rear. I can also get the noise to happen when going over a large bump, such as a speed bump, but a moderately sharp (so nothing you wouldn't do in normal driving) flick of the wheel produces the noise very easily and consistently.
I doubt it's the axles, because the way we drive this van, the AWD is actually seldom engaged, so the axles have seen very little wear. Could it be the rubber bushings that support the leaf springs? It's such a simple rear suspension design that there isn't a whole lot to go wrong/replace, but I don't want to start throwing parts at it without at least a stab at a diagnosis.
The van has 123,000 miles, and has been doing this for a long time, and it doesn't seem to be getting any worse, but I'd like to get to the bottom of it. Otherwise, the van has been amazingly trouble-free.
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I've got some trouble with my 2010 T&C Touring and the A/C system. I believe it is specific to the rear, but not 100% sure yet.
Here's the symptom, while driving home a few nights ago, I noticed a hissing sound from somewhere under the dash. Research led me to believe that the r-134a was low, so I bought a few cans and charged it up. I drove around yesterday with the fresh refill, and all was well. This morning, I noticed that I hadn't been running the rear A/C, and thus, not doing a full test.
So, I turned on the rear A/C and within just a few minutes, started hearing the hissing sound again. Flash back to a couple of weekends, I replaced brakes/rotors and while inspecting after taking a test drive noticed some water pooling up under the rear passenger side tire. I checked it out, but at the time, it didn't seem significant until today when I started to put this all together.
SO, my question is, what would be leaking right above the tire? Is this something that is super common and I could somehow convince my local dealer to repair out of "good will" like was happening with the '06 model year with a similar issue? I've had to do brakes, rotors and as a result of not knowing that Chrysler calipers can't be pressed in, but instead must be wound in, replaced calipers, and also an EGR valve all at the same time. So, needless to say, I'm not excited about doing further repair.
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What am i missing i have a terrible clunk in the front end when i hit bumps. I thought it was the struts and mounting plates so they are new . no change Stabilizer links were tight but i replaced them as well. Everything else seems tight but the noise has not changed with any of the above mentioned repairs.
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I'm wondering if there is a 100% way to check and see if my climate control module is bad. No lights work on it, it doesn't turn on the ac or the blower. I took it off it all seems to be decent from what I can tell. But its just not working.
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I'm having electrical issues in my 2006 Dodge Caravan. It started with the radio not working (even though the lights around the nobs and buttons light up) and the lock button doesn't work until the van is started. Now, the windshield wiper won't turn off, even after the van has been turned off.
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I have a 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with 58000 miles. The rear blower won't run with either the front controls or rear controls. I have checked the fuses and they looked ok.
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It is as an electronic whistle/humming. The sound is coming from the rear of the van, and no, not when it's moving, even though it still does it when moving. The only thing I can think of would be the fuel pump. Because It's loudest just before the rear tires, not after them. My fiancee has heard it twice now, when she first heard it, I didn't, but this last time when I heard it, I also noticed that the gas gauge was reading just below 1/8 of a tank.
Would like to know if it's the fuel pump or something else I'm no thinking of. And if it means I have to replace the pump.
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Recently disconnected the battery, now rear window switch flashes whenever the door is opened and the hvac switches will not work for around 30 seconds, how to recalibrate the door/hvac system...
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Changed input and output sensor, replaced solenoid pack, cam and crank sensor. Runs good code on odometer 1684 p700.
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I have a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan and while I was driving it stopped on me. It will turn on but once you put it in gear it will turn off and wont turn back on. I have replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump.
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I have a 2003 Chrysler Town and Country and my problem started with no reverse after starting car. If I pushed it back and drove forward 10 or 15 feet then reverse would work fine and shift properly. As long as I could drive forward first then reverse would work. This was like this for a few days then the vehicle wouldn't move at all. There wasn't any error codes. The fluid is full and clean.
When the van was about a year old I took it to the dealer with harsh shifting and they said there was a broken wire to the trans, I am thinking this is when they came out with the 3 wire slice people where talking about.
I wasn't needing the van so it has been sitting now for almost a year. Now I want to get it working again...
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I've tried putting new batteries in my mini van and the battery goes dead after a day or 2. I've had it to the dealer before and they said it's a bad battery. which clearly it's not. I had a meter between the grounds on the battery and pulled all fuses under the hood and no change. I'm a quadriplegic and it's a nightmare when I go out with my aid to go to a doctors appointment and my van is dead. I don't have any money for the dealer again. I don't think the chrysler dealer even looked at it and took advantage of my situation. Its a 2003 Town country with only 29,000 miles. could it be the alternator drawing power when the car is off?
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I have a 2003 Grand Caravan, 3.3L, 75,000 miles. The van suddenly will not attempt to start. The strange thing is that when the key is turned to RUN I cannot hear the fuel pump. The normal 2 or so second on growl at the initial key turn is not there. When turned to start the clock on the radio goes out and no crank. I have found that the start relay is not passing on the signal to the starter. If I jump across the two pins going to the starter, the starter cranks fine. The van will still not start because I believe it has no fuel,due to the fuel pump not running. I thought first that it must be the neutral safety switch but does that have any control of the fuel pump also? I have found that the neutral safety switch requires that I remove the valve body for access.
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I've fixed one source of water that was leaking into the passenger side footwell via the insulation surrounding the A/D drain line, but I still have a leak on the drivers side after a rain, and it's strange. Unlike the leak on the passenger side, this one is not coming along the firewall - the firewall is bone dry. The water seems to be coming vertically straight down, landing on the floor mat, but I can't tell where it's coming from. Not only is the firewall dry, but so is the carpet on all sides of the puddle that collects in the rubber floor mat.
Also, I haven't been able to create the leak by spraying water on the van - I washed it today, for example, and not a drop came in. But we had a light rain last night, and there was a puddle on the floor mat (good thing it's rubber) when I opened the door this morning. I've stuck my head up under the dash immediately after I had found water on the floor mat, but can't for the life of me see any sign of wetness above the location of the water on the floor mat.
And yes, I've cleaned out the drain lines under the cowl in front of the windshield. Where this mystery leak may be coming from?
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All the electrical components that are controlled by the ignition key/switch (radio, power windows, wipers, AC/fan) sometimes don't work when I turn the van on. However, when the key is turned back into accessories position, everything works - never a problem then. I had the ignition switch replaced a few months ago and that seemed to work (didn't occur as often) but now it's back to the way it was before. Just about every time I need the wipers (when it rains), they don't work nor do any of the other things I mentioned previously.
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Vehicle: 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3 Litre
I also have my CE light on. Hooked up my reader and got the "P1491 Radiator Fan Control Relay" code. I have checked my rad fan fuse and it is okay. My attempt to locate the rad fan relay took me from the rad fan wire to a device that looks like a heat sink. It is located on the vehicle frame between the rad. and front grill. Is this the rad fan relay? If it is I'm not sure how I would replace it. It seems riveted to the frame.
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We just purchased a 2012 Grand Caravan and was wondering where to get a key and program it. I know the key will be an arm and a leg if i get it from the dealer. Is there a tutorial that tells how to program it as well?
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2006 Caravan. Heat comes and goes every minute or so. Also noticed the temp gauge goes from normal operating range to cold and back again frequently. Hasn't overheated. Does that sound like a thermostat problem?
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On my 2005 3.3L Grand Caravan the ABS light keeping coming on. I inspected the sensors for the front and used my compressor to give them a quick puff of air to get rid of dust. The light went off for about 5 days. Now it is back on.
How does one read ABS codes? If I knew for sure that the problem is a speed sensor and which one I could clean or replace the faulty sensor.
If I clean to sensor are there any special precautions I need to take? As far as I could see they didn't look very dirty.
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I'm having trouble with my 96' 3.0L, its kind of crazy its intermittent and while driving the engines surges one or twice and then dies... when I try to crank it up again cranks but don't starts if I try again it wont even crank ( no starter winding up ) what I noticed is that is I'm driving when it dies my check engine light disappears for a while and if I connect my OBD 2 reader does not link up with the ECU if I wait a while and I crank it up again its starts and the while cranking up I can hear a bang noise from the engine compartment drives side and then after a couple of minutes dies again...
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I have a 2006 Grand Caravan 3.8 that just stalled at a set of lights yesterday and have had it towed back to the shop here. I turns over and starts briefly then will die and then just turn over strongly. I cleaned the throttle body and IAC but this did not work. I connected fuel pressure tester and have no pressure when turn key on or turn it over.
The fuse and relay check out ok, so I'm thinking bad or clogged fuel pump.
I have a 2004 Caravan out back that I have used for other small parts to interchange before and was wondering whether or not the fuel pumps between these two are compatible. Be a lot of work to pull the one off the one in the yard, only to find out its not going to fit.
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