Caravan/Voyager :: 2002 - No Matter The Temperature Setting AC Blow Very Hot Air
Oct 13, 2013
Got a 2002 Grand Voyager (as we name it in Europe), 3,3 AWD, with AC/Heating problems.
No matter the temperature setting, from 15C to 29, it will blow with same very hot air. AC working when setting the temp to LO.
Going from LO to 15 deg C, you'll hear a "clunk", as if a door closes, and the warm air will start to flow through the vents.
Tried all the calibration possibilities known to me (ON+Recirc), and it will end with no faults, but to no good effect on the problem.
What the "ON+AC" mode does? Been in that mode - but do not know what it does, or if I'm supposed to do anything.
I haven't got a clue, other than the "thump" I hear when, possibly, the blend door closes, might be a problem, since I would expect the blend to be more gradually invoked.
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I have a 1990 E250 and the heat does not blow. I have only had the van a year and it somewhat worked when I got it, but at the end of least winter It stopped blowing. It does not matter what setting I have it on low or high. if I turn the defrost on and put my hand on the dash I can feel warm air but it does not blow. It is the same for the vent, I can feel warm air coming out but does not blow. Sometimes if I hit a bump it seems like it will blow a bit harder but not like it should. My question is, should I just replace the blower motor, or is there something else I should check first?
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My wife's '02 Explorer has developed an issue with the heat/AC. As far as I can tell, the heat is hot when it's supposed to be hot, and the AC is cold when it's supposed to be cold. But, the problem is that everything only blows out through the defrost vents, no matter what setting it is on.
I know there are other threads on this type of subject, and I have read a lot of them. I thought I had identified that actuator gizmo as the culprit, but the more I read, it didn't seem like the symptoms for that issue are exactly like mine. I want to try and fix it myself, and I'd love to take the time to read everything on the subject, but warmer weather is here and my wife wants it fixed yesterday!
This problem reminds me of the time the vacuum pump went out on my F-350 and the defrost vents were all that would work. I wish this problem would be as easy to fix as that was.
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I need to replace the crankshaft position sensor. On my 2002 Grand Caravan Sport 3.3liter. Where it is in laymans terms.
Is it better to approach from the underside Or from the hood side? I will know it when I see it but I haven't seen it yet!!
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The gear shift works fine, and we lifted the hood and saw that the mech. arm IS working when we shift. However, the van will not move into any gear. won't go forward, reverse, etc... it acts like it isn't shifting.
i was driving down the highway, and noticed it wasn't accelerating and stepped on the gas.. .and nothing. I stopped the van, put in park, turned it off. Started it again, and put in D and wouldn't go, just engine revved. then put in reverse and same thing... didn't move but engine revved.
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It started, but was still running very rough. He then recommend a new PCM. After choking on his estimate, and paying the initial invoice, I decided to let someone else have at it. Mech # 2 installed a "Rebuilt" PCM, New Battery, and a PCV Valve.
It runs good now BUT, ...It has this weird idle Misfire. The only time it happens is at a stop light when at idle. And it doesnt do it all the time. This check engine light is not on... At this point, all I want to do is sell it.I have over 1K in repair costs and still can't get rid of this misfire.
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My brother-in-law has a 97 F-150 with 4.6L that has no heat in the cab (blows cold air no matter what setting at HVAC controller). Heater core was replaced one year ago and T-stat was replaced last night. Coolant level is full and the heater hoses are BOTH hot so I believe warm coolant is flowing through the heater core. I am thinking that the HVAC controller may be at fault or maybe the mixing door in the HVAC plenum is malfunctioning. I have 97 rangers that had a broken hinge pin for the mixing door inside the plenum (a common problem with these trucks), maybe this is the same issue (I don't know). I am taking the whole dash out to see what the trouble is.
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I have a 2010 chevy silverado. No matter where I turn the blower selector switch, it always comes out of the vents. Also no matter where I turn the temperature selector knob, it's always cold. It's a company truck that I can't get fixed soon because of downtime and I'm not supposed to take it to get fixed on my own time. It was 37 degrees this morning on my drive into work.
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How does one read ABS codes? If I knew for sure that the problem is a speed sensor and which one I could clean or replace the faulty sensor.
If I clean to sensor are there any special precautions I need to take? As far as I could see they didn't look very dirty.
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Seems like I'm having to crank the temperature up higher and higher (numerically) to avoid freezing myself out in the GX in the summer. Used to be ~72-74deg was a comfortable setting, regardless of outside temp. Now it seems like I'm running a 77-78deg setting on the climate control in order for things to feel right. Any lower and I just get frozen-out.
Oddly, if I have the rear AC on (if it's super hot outside, or if the kids are in the back) things are a bit more normal.
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2002 Saturn L200 Automatic Shifter. Anyway, I can turn the car on fine. I can push the brake and move the shifter fine. But no matter what gear im in park, reverse, neutral, drive, 3, 2, 1 the car still rolls. Also the indicator lights to the left of the shifter are messed up too. When I am in park position, the indicator lights shows I am in reverse. When in reverse it says neutral etc. What the problem is. If i could move the shifter fine why wont it change gears? and how can i fix the indicator lights?
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What am i missing i have a terrible clunk in the front end when i hit bumps. I thought it was the struts and mounting plates so they are new . no change Stabilizer links were tight but i replaced them as well. Everything else seems tight but the noise has not changed with any of the above mentioned repairs.
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