My 2000 dodge caravan with the 3.3 is shuddering while in gear and not moving especially in reverse . As soon as you start going it stops . No slipping whatsoever. The van only has 130'000 miles on it .
View 2 RepliesThe gear shift works fine, and we lifted the hood and saw that the mech. arm IS working when we shift. However, the van will not move into any gear. won't go forward, reverse, etc... it acts like it isn't shifting.
i was driving down the highway, and noticed it wasn't accelerating and stepped on the gas.. .and nothing. I stopped the van, put in park, turned it off. Started it again, and put in D and wouldn't go, just engine revved. then put in reverse and same thing... didn't move but engine revved.
2002 T&C, starts and idles fine. When we put in gear (drive or reverse) it dies. Then we can restart and it drives fine the rest of the day. This only happens when it has been sitting a long time, such as over night. However, I've let it sit until mid-day and it does it so it doesn't appear to be Temp or humidity related as it issue is repeatable at any time of the day as long as the vehicle has been sitting 12 hours or so.
The remainder of the day it drives without issue and we can restart 8-10 times during the day without issue, then the next day when we restart it, no matter how long it idles it cuts out when you first start to move and apply the gas. When you restart, it, it often doesn't happen again and I've never had to restart more than twice. Again, it runs fine other than this issue.
I've replaced the fuel filter and I put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail. The pressure is within specs. I also watched the gauge as my wife backed the vehicle up and it died, but the fuel pressure didn't drop out. It is now showing a O2 Sensor code per Advance, but in reading other post, those can be misleading, so I wanted input before I just start throwing money at the problem
I have a 2003 Chrysler Town and Country and my problem started with no reverse after starting car. If I pushed it back and drove forward 10 or 15 feet then reverse would work fine and shift properly. As long as I could drive forward first then reverse would work. This was like this for a few days then the vehicle wouldn't move at all. There wasn't any error codes. The fluid is full and clean.
When the van was about a year old I took it to the dealer with harsh shifting and they said there was a broken wire to the trans, I am thinking this is when they came out with the 3 wire slice people where talking about.
I wasn't needing the van so it has been sitting now for almost a year. Now I want to get it working again...
Changed input and output sensor, replaced solenoid pack, cam and crank sensor. Runs good code on odometer 1684 p700.
View 4 RepliesMY gc started cutting out a few weeks ago while idling in gear. I changed out the four plugs I could get the wires off. It's a v6. It started running better for a couple of days. I need to know of any way to get the stuck boot off. I also have a feeling there is something else wrong. Anything else that might be causing it to cut out. It has progressed to cutting out while going down the highway.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1995 Plymouth Voyager se about a year ago the transmission started acting up, for no reason, it would just go it to First and never come out I would stop turn it off turn it back on again and it would be fine..then days later it would go by, it would do it again. it did this for a while and the good days would turn in to a mile or two then it just decided not to come out of first ever, during this, i took it to a trany shop and rebuilt the transmission it worked for a bout a half hour.
Final a mechanic friend checked the computer again and changed it out with another and it fixed it beautifully!!! ok well about a week ago a very odd loud obnoxious squeal started that sounded like a bottle rocket but not all the time, more often than not though. Before I got a chance to take it to my mechanic friend i was driving along and the transmission slipped in to first and wont that's it. i have been doing emergency trips in first gear and also the horrid squeal is gone. the thing have to be linked what should I try and i don't think its the computer, I really don't want to lose my van
I have a 2002 Town and Country LX with the 3.3L V6. Recently the check engine light went on and later the transmission stopped shifting from 3rd to 4th gear. All the gears work properly except for 4th. It doesn't seem like anything is wrong with the transmission, would this be a sensor problem? If so which sensor would need to be replaced?
View 14 RepliesI just replaced the transmission in my 2000 3.3L Grand Voyager and now it won't start. It started fine when I drove it into the shop. The battery is good, the cables are ok. The starter worked good up to this point. I checked all the connections to make sure they are tight. I replaced the transmission because reverse went out.
When I turn on the key, the shift letters (PND32) appear on the instrument panel, but the little circle that shows what gear it is in does not appear. When you turn the key to the run position, the circle should be around the P to show it is in park.
When I turn the key to start, nothing happens. No clicks or anything. The next thing I am going to do is see if there is power to the starter when the key is in the start position. Where to start looking?
I purchased a 2004 Chrysler Town & Country Dec 2003. I noticed an intermittent problem with my gear shift indicator lights PDRNL were all lighting up when I would start the vehicle in February 2004. I would have to play with the shift lever a few times to get it into gear.
On Feb 26, 2004 the vehicle would not start at all, would not even turn over. The vehicle had to be towed to the dealership. It had 3500 miles at the time. The error code was PO706 check shifter signal. They said it was the transmission range sensor and replaced it. I had no problems for 2000 miles until I was in northern Michigan and the gear shift indicator lights started doing the same thing.
I brought it to a local Chrysler dealership the next morning and they scanned the following codes PO1791 loss of prime PO705 check shifter signal BCM stored TCM message not received FCM stored TCM communication fault DSD stored incomplete power voltage. This dealership checked connections and wiring harness which were okay so advised me to take it back to my dealership at home since they would have to tear the whole van down to figure out what was wrong and any parts they would need would not get there before I left for home.
Luckily, I made it home with only one incident with these lights coming on. My dealership had the same error code PO706 and also PO444. Here is what their repair order states "DTC PO706 shift signal fault. Front pump allowing torque convertor to bleed down IPM internally shorted causing intermittent shift signal errors and PO444 and PO706. Scan and perform trans diag and fluid level full R & I the transmission R & I the pan and valve body replace the filter R & I the front pump and replace the front pump and torque convertor called STAR about intermittent loss of shift signal was told to replace the IPM. Replace the IPM (power distribution center) retest ok at this time."
So here is my question....I am very worried with all that I am reading about transmission problems and this van has only 6500 miles and all these parts that they have had to replace already is really scaring me!
My wife has a 2000 t&c with 150k on it its a fwd with 3.8 and about a month ago while driving we noticed the rpms will jump up 400 and go back, with cruise control on or off being held at a consistent speed. and about for days ago it started shifting late. Still has all gears fluid looks o.k. and is full no check engine light .
I am hearing transmission solenoid, tps sensor, input sensor, output sensor, tcm, iac, map, or egr are all possibilities or a rebuild . Or simple as a flush.. tonight i went out n started it it idles around 800 tried to hold it at 1200 and it would for a second and drop back to 800 with accelerator being slightly held. Not sure if related. Just observed it..
My van just started to have this issue today with jerking real hard like its dropping a couple of gears while going between 50-60mph. It is a 2000 with the flex fuel 3.3L 4 speed auto.When this happens the spedo will go from 55mph to 40 instantly while keeping a steady speed and it feels like the tranny is going to rip right out. This will happen every 5 to 10 min but go back to normal driving after 3 sec and has not popped any codes. It runs like a top and all fluids are at the correct levels. I have to commute 50 miles a day to work so i really need to figure this out!!!
View 1 RepliesMy GC is overheating. Started as occasionally but now increasing in frequency. I find it will being to overheat after driving on the interstate for half hour or so but I can "calm" it back down but turning on the heat. I've replaced the following:
1. coolant (no drips or leaks nor am I losing coolant over time)
2. thermostat (twice)
3. temperature sensor
4. serpentine belt and tensioner
5. radiator (last summer)
6. water pump (last winter)
I notice the fans run more often than they should. For example, after a 10 minute ride to work in the morning,. I notice the fans are running as I pull into my parking space.
Drivers side not bowing hot air? We changed the blower motor and the resister on the passenger side. We hadn't tried to use the heat until last night when we needed the defrost and that's when we realized only heat on passenger side.
View 1 RepliesDodge Grand Caravan 2000 3.0L
First, sometimes the engine began shuts off. When the drive up to the traffic lights. When sharply throw gas pedal. When the engine speed is less than 2000. If you release the gas pedal, you will see that the tachometer needle drops below 500 rpm and the engine stalls. This happened happened two or three days all right. And sometimes a day, 3-4 times shuts off. Then ringing under the hood.
Was the flywheel. I remove the transmission and replace the flywheel. More repair parking brake pedal. So it turns analyzed under the panel. I have a new problem. After repair. I driving my Dodge week. And once. After an overnight stay the machine, on morning the engine not start. I checked the spark. The spark is. I removed the fuel hose. and there is no pressure. Just a little bit of fuel.
I decided that this is the fuel pump. I took off his tank, bought a new fuel pump. The pump has not changed. Today I decided to apply voltage to the old pump, it still stands in the tank. It works. Buzzing. Then I decided to check the voltage on the connector. I turned on the ignition. The instrument appears briefly on 12 volts. They are only momentary. Now I think there should always be 12 volts? Fuel tank removed. All hoses are disconnected. Not really the problem in the fuel pump? How to troubleshoot? Where can I get the wiring diagram?
I have an engine noise on my 2000 Dodge Caravan with the 3.3 engine. It sounds a lot like the grinding of a rotating part. It occurs at start up, momentarily, then goes away. If I drop it in gear and start doing low speed maneuvering in the driveway, it comes back. If I turn on the AC it comes back. In all cases, the noise goes away at around 1200 rpm.
The noise occurs again, when I shut the engine down.The engine performs and runs smooth and normal otherwise. No stalling, stumbling, or bad gas mileage to report.
I can "feel" the noise with my hand, when I put my hand on the ac compressor bracket, or the intake manifold, or the valve cover. I've tried the listening through the stick method, and it seems to be coming from the front area of the engine. But I can't be sure. It is something internal. Let me describe:
I thought it was my AC compressor or clutch going bad. The fact that my AC had stopped working well, and was making jet engine noises at high rpm supported me decide this. I replaced the compressor. The AC works great now, and the jet engine noises went away. But the grinding noise is still there. As described.
I wishfully thought it was the belt tensioner or idler pulley. I replaced both of those. Noise still was there. I pulled off the serpentine belt, and started the engine. It made the noise, very briefly as it started, then went away completely. It made the noise again briefly as I shut the motor off. So it's still there without any of the accessories turning.
The noise is loud and obnoxious at idle when under load. It just can't be good. I've read theories about similar sounding problems, saying they could be loose timing chain, bad oil pump, slapping pistons, crank journals, flexplate/flywheels cracked.
I'm going to try doing an oil system flush, and then I'll change it out with a little thicker oil. See if that makes any difference in the noise. Currently I'm running 5w-30 Mobile 1. I think. I'll let you know if it changes anything. I'm also thinking I want to make a short video of the car idling and making the noise for my video camera. I'll post that on youtube and link it here.
I had a VERY bad leak, to the point where I would fill it, an hour later it all leaked out. I had a mechanic work on it, and he rebuilt the PS pump, BUT the pulley was cracked, they DON'T make that size anymore. He put a bigger one on, only to find out, it was rubbing on my brake lines so I couldn't drive it! SO I had another grease monkey work on it, went through a few new pulley's FINALLY found one! BUT went through 4 Serpentine belts!!
After 3 months with NO VEHICLE, we finally got it all back together. BUT now it is not all lining up we couldn't tell until we had the belt on. it is about a 1/4 of an inch to much to the right.
I'm thinking maybe washers or spacers would work?
So my radiator fans were staying on until my battery died and my car was completely cooled down and off. I was told it was a sticking relay so I replaced it and the fans still won't come on. I unplugged the coolant temp sensor and the fans came on so I know its not the motors or anything.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 Dodge Caravan. The power lock switches are no longer working (both driver and front passenger). They worked fine the last time I drove the vehicle and both switches stopped working at the same time. The power locks themselves still function with the remote and still lock when speed reaches 25km. Just the actual switches on the doors are not functioning.
View 5 RepliesI'm having trouble with my 2000 Grand Caravan 3.3L. The gauge cluster was working intermittently & recently quit. I have the P1698 trouble code & looked up info online. I of course found out about the solder joint problem & figured that would be the culprit. I took the dash apart & found the solder joints were fine, but when coming apart, the wire plug on the back side came out on it's own. The retaining clip was broke & I thought maybe that was my problem. There's enough room to install a zip tie to hold the plug in & I put it back together. It still doesn't work though.
Here's the symptoms- I turn the key to ignition & nothing in the instrument cluster comes on. When I start the engine, everything lights & works as normal except for the trans indicator- the letters light, but no position shown (regardless of any gear selection). This continues for about 5-10 seconds & the trans position indicator lights up around EVERY letter. A few seconds later the entire dash goes down. I then shut off the engine by only turning the key back 1 notch. At this key position the odometer & trans indicator come on & the trans indicator will properly display every selected position correctly. It is consistently working this way every time now. The heat is also stuck on hot & the rear window wiper/ washer is not working.
I've also pulled the body module to check for connection problems & don't find anything with that. I've pulled the fuse under the hood too. So far no luck.
I have a 2008 F-150. When moving gear selector from park to either reverse or drive, trans has a delay engaging. After engagement, it runs fine, shifts ok, downshifts ok....
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