Caravan/Voyager :: 2000 - Power Lock Switches Aren't Working
Aug 12, 2009
I have a 2000 Dodge Caravan. The power lock switches are no longer working (both driver and front passenger). They worked fine the last time I drove the vehicle and both switches stopped working at the same time. The power locks themselves still function with the remote and still lock when speed reaches 25km. Just the actual switches on the doors are not functioning.
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My 1996 Caravan gauges do not work at all. I have checked the fuse(s), and thay are all fine.The rest of the van works just fine. The fuel, temp,tach, and speed gauges do not work. The odo does not show up either. What to do?
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I have a rather peculiar problem with My 1994 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L. This has happened multiple times spread out over the last 10 years. Every couple of years after a rather long drive, then a stop, it spits, sputters, has very little to no power, and will ultimately die. It will usually start right back up, idle fine, but when you shift into gear, it acts up as described. If you let it set for about 15-20 minutes, it will usually start up and run fine without the symptoms as described.
The First time it happened I was lucky enough to be within a mile of the dealer, who diagnosed a bad fuel pump before it was ever on the lift. He showed me what he said was the culprit, which was a fuel filter that was full of black particles and soot. He replaced both the pump and filter and it ran fine for a couple of years and it started doing the same thing. Another new fuel pump and filter and we're running again (all under warranty).
About three years ago it did it again and this time we went to a different dealer and since we were no longer under warranty, we wanted to know what was actually going wrong. Nothing was ever found, no codes, pressure was good, everything looked fine. No problems until today when it started again, no dash or check engine lights, it just wouldn't run. We let it sit for 20-30 minutes and started it right up and drove it home without incident.
Are these vehicles known for vapor locking? It sure acts like that is what it was doing. The temp wasn't that hot and was ruled out as a factor.
I am planning to put a new fuel filter in it?
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I'm having trouble with my 2000 Grand Caravan 3.3L. The gauge cluster was working intermittently & recently quit. I have the P1698 trouble code & looked up info online. I of course found out about the solder joint problem & figured that would be the culprit. I took the dash apart & found the solder joints were fine, but when coming apart, the wire plug on the back side came out on it's own. The retaining clip was broke & I thought maybe that was my problem. There's enough room to install a zip tie to hold the plug in & I put it back together. It still doesn't work though.
Here's the symptoms- I turn the key to ignition & nothing in the instrument cluster comes on. When I start the engine, everything lights & works as normal except for the trans indicator- the letters light, but no position shown (regardless of any gear selection). This continues for about 5-10 seconds & the trans position indicator lights up around EVERY letter. A few seconds later the entire dash goes down. I then shut off the engine by only turning the key back 1 notch. At this key position the odometer & trans indicator come on & the trans indicator will properly display every selected position correctly. It is consistently working this way every time now. The heat is also stuck on hot & the rear window wiper/ washer is not working.
I've also pulled the body module to check for connection problems & don't find anything with that. I've pulled the fuse under the hood too. So far no luck.
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I had a VERY bad leak, to the point where I would fill it, an hour later it all leaked out. I had a mechanic work on it, and he rebuilt the PS pump, BUT the pulley was cracked, they DON'T make that size anymore. He put a bigger one on, only to find out, it was rubbing on my brake lines so I couldn't drive it! SO I had another grease monkey work on it, went through a few new pulley's FINALLY found one! BUT went through 4 Serpentine belts!!
After 3 months with NO VEHICLE, we finally got it all back together. BUT now it is not all lining up we couldn't tell until we had the belt on. it is about a 1/4 of an inch to much to the right.
I'm thinking maybe washers or spacers would work?
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I have a 2000 EX 7.3L ... The power windows aren't working and neither is the interior lights. I am hoping it is a couple of fuses. Problem is that I can't find a fuse diagram and I don't have any knowledge about changing the fuses. Do I need to change them both under the hood and under the dash? Which fuses I need to look at changing?
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I have a 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE. It has 122000 mi. I just bought it a few months ago and have came across a few minor problems and all have been easy DIY projects (couple of blown fuses, wiper replacement etc..) Recently, I noticed the AC stopped working (it was only tested once when I bought it, but have not used it since)
Where to begin the diagnosis. Is there a fuse connected to the functioning of the AC? I really don't know a whole lot about cars, but I am pretty good at fixing things in general.
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I just replaced the transmission in my 2000 3.3L Grand Voyager and now it won't start. It started fine when I drove it into the shop. The battery is good, the cables are ok. The starter worked good up to this point. I checked all the connections to make sure they are tight. I replaced the transmission because reverse went out.
When I turn on the key, the shift letters (PND32) appear on the instrument panel, but the little circle that shows what gear it is in does not appear. When you turn the key to the run position, the circle should be around the P to show it is in park.
When I turn the key to start, nothing happens. No clicks or anything. The next thing I am going to do is see if there is power to the starter when the key is in the start position. Where to start looking?
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I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan with a heater blower that doesn't seem to be working. Whether the heater knob is on low or high, it does nothing, but you can feel a little heat coming out, though. I was told it may be a resistor behind the glove box. I've already checked the fuse, and it seems OK. What do I do?
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My wife has a 2000 t&c with 150k on it its a fwd with 3.8 and about a month ago while driving we noticed the rpms will jump up 400 and go back, with cruise control on or off being held at a consistent speed. and about for days ago it started shifting late. Still has all gears fluid looks o.k. and is full no check engine light .
I am hearing transmission solenoid, tps sensor, input sensor, output sensor, tcm, iac, map, or egr are all possibilities or a rebuild . Or simple as a flush.. tonight i went out n started it it idles around 800 tried to hold it at 1200 and it would for a second and drop back to 800 with accelerator being slightly held. Not sure if related. Just observed it..
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My 2000 dodge caravan with the 3.3 is shuddering while in gear and not moving especially in reverse . As soon as you start going it stops . No slipping whatsoever. The van only has 130'000 miles on it .
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The problem I am having with my 2009 Grand Caravan SE is the drivers door controls stopped working. I cant use the power windows locks or door locks and the background light is off also, the front passenger side and middle row locks etc work. On the driver door the only things that work are the 2 back vent windows.
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My van just started to have this issue today with jerking real hard like its dropping a couple of gears while going between 50-60mph. It is a 2000 with the flex fuel 3.3L 4 speed auto.When this happens the spedo will go from 55mph to 40 instantly while keeping a steady speed and it feels like the tranny is going to rip right out. This will happen every 5 to 10 min but go back to normal driving after 3 sec and has not popped any codes. It runs like a top and all fluids are at the correct levels. I have to commute 50 miles a day to work so i really need to figure this out!!!
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My GC is overheating. Started as occasionally but now increasing in frequency. I find it will being to overheat after driving on the interstate for half hour or so but I can "calm" it back down but turning on the heat. I've replaced the following:
1. coolant (no drips or leaks nor am I losing coolant over time)
2. thermostat (twice)
3. temperature sensor
4. serpentine belt and tensioner
5. radiator (last summer)
6. water pump (last winter)
I notice the fans run more often than they should. For example, after a 10 minute ride to work in the morning,. I notice the fans are running as I pull into my parking space.
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Drivers side not bowing hot air? We changed the blower motor and the resister on the passenger side. We hadn't tried to use the heat until last night when we needed the defrost and that's when we realized only heat on passenger side.
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Dodge Grand Caravan 2000 3.0L
First, sometimes the engine began shuts off. When the drive up to the traffic lights. When sharply throw gas pedal. When the engine speed is less than 2000. If you release the gas pedal, you will see that the tachometer needle drops below 500 rpm and the engine stalls. This happened happened two or three days all right. And sometimes a day, 3-4 times shuts off. Then ringing under the hood.
Was the flywheel. I remove the transmission and replace the flywheel. More repair parking brake pedal. So it turns analyzed under the panel. I have a new problem. After repair. I driving my Dodge week. And once. After an overnight stay the machine, on morning the engine not start. I checked the spark. The spark is. I removed the fuel hose. and there is no pressure. Just a little bit of fuel.
I decided that this is the fuel pump. I took off his tank, bought a new fuel pump. The pump has not changed. Today I decided to apply voltage to the old pump, it still stands in the tank. It works. Buzzing. Then I decided to check the voltage on the connector. I turned on the ignition. The instrument appears briefly on 12 volts. They are only momentary. Now I think there should always be 12 volts? Fuel tank removed. All hoses are disconnected. Not really the problem in the fuel pump? How to troubleshoot? Where can I get the wiring diagram?
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I have an engine noise on my 2000 Dodge Caravan with the 3.3 engine. It sounds a lot like the grinding of a rotating part. It occurs at start up, momentarily, then goes away. If I drop it in gear and start doing low speed maneuvering in the driveway, it comes back. If I turn on the AC it comes back. In all cases, the noise goes away at around 1200 rpm.
The noise occurs again, when I shut the engine down.The engine performs and runs smooth and normal otherwise. No stalling, stumbling, or bad gas mileage to report.
I can "feel" the noise with my hand, when I put my hand on the ac compressor bracket, or the intake manifold, or the valve cover. I've tried the listening through the stick method, and it seems to be coming from the front area of the engine. But I can't be sure. It is something internal. Let me describe:
I thought it was my AC compressor or clutch going bad. The fact that my AC had stopped working well, and was making jet engine noises at high rpm supported me decide this. I replaced the compressor. The AC works great now, and the jet engine noises went away. But the grinding noise is still there. As described.
I wishfully thought it was the belt tensioner or idler pulley. I replaced both of those. Noise still was there. I pulled off the serpentine belt, and started the engine. It made the noise, very briefly as it started, then went away completely. It made the noise again briefly as I shut the motor off. So it's still there without any of the accessories turning.
The noise is loud and obnoxious at idle when under load. It just can't be good. I've read theories about similar sounding problems, saying they could be loose timing chain, bad oil pump, slapping pistons, crank journals, flexplate/flywheels cracked.
I'm going to try doing an oil system flush, and then I'll change it out with a little thicker oil. See if that makes any difference in the noise. Currently I'm running 5w-30 Mobile 1. I think. I'll let you know if it changes anything. I'm also thinking I want to make a short video of the car idling and making the noise for my video camera. I'll post that on youtube and link it here.
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So my radiator fans were staying on until my battery died and my car was completely cooled down and off. I was told it was a sticking relay so I replaced it and the fans still won't come on. I unplugged the coolant temp sensor and the fans came on so I know its not the motors or anything.
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98 dodge caravan 3.3L v6 ..... All lights work including driver's side tail lights. only problem is that when pressing brake pedal, the driver's side brake light does not light up. i changed the bulb and checked the brake light fuse under the hood, but it was fine (as i guessed since the passenger side and middle brake lights work). I took the assembly off and reseated the connector to the tail light assembly, but same issue.
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Someone put sugar in my gas tank so I had it worked on at the Dodge place they replaced my fuel pump..fuel filter cleaned the tank..flushed the lines cleaned my injectors and replaced the plugs..I went to pick it up I barely made it a mile down the road I had no power and a lady flagged me down to tell me to pull over because I had sparks coming from the bottom of my van I looked under the van and the catalytic converter was red like hit coals the Dodge place is telling me its my flex plate? I think they are misdiagnosing the issue because before the sugar issue I had no problems with my van?
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I have 1990 dodge caravan v6, i checked to see if i got power to the fuel pump and there no power going
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