Caravan/Voyager :: 1999 - Whirring Sound / Low Voltage When Idling
Mar 7, 2013
I have a 99 voyager that has started making a whirring sound this last week. The water pump, serpentine belt, tensioner have all been replace several months ago. The battery light came on for about a minute and then went off the last night. I checked the voltage with the engine running and it measured 12.5, the same as when it is off. When I revved it up the voltage went up to 14.4 volts. Is this normal? What could be making the whirring sound?
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2007 town & country with 93k when car is started (cold) after setting to completely cold have a whirring noise that goes away after car is completely warmed up thought was alternator but noise doesn't seem to be coming from there .... 3.3l engine ....
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P0032 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
I have read that in 2005 chrysler changed the ohms levels for the oxygen sensors and may need to have bcm reflashed to get a new oxygen sensor to work wheither its dealer item or not, is this true if i were to buy a mopar oxygen sensor? aftermarket is out of the question being the ohm readings would require me to spend some time at the dealer. is this code a defective sensor? or could it be related to the thermostat being faulty? am not low on antifreeze and temp gauge reads normal.
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MY gc started cutting out a few weeks ago while idling in gear. I changed out the four plugs I could get the wires off. It's a v6. It started running better for a couple of days. I need to know of any way to get the stuck boot off. I also have a feeling there is something else wrong. Anything else that might be causing it to cut out. It has progressed to cutting out while going down the highway.
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I've got some trouble with my 2010 T&C Touring and the A/C system. I believe it is specific to the rear, but not 100% sure yet.
Here's the symptom, while driving home a few nights ago, I noticed a hissing sound from somewhere under the dash. Research led me to believe that the r-134a was low, so I bought a few cans and charged it up. I drove around yesterday with the fresh refill, and all was well. This morning, I noticed that I hadn't been running the rear A/C, and thus, not doing a full test.
So, I turned on the rear A/C and within just a few minutes, started hearing the hissing sound again. Flash back to a couple of weekends, I replaced brakes/rotors and while inspecting after taking a test drive noticed some water pooling up under the rear passenger side tire. I checked it out, but at the time, it didn't seem significant until today when I started to put this all together.
SO, my question is, what would be leaking right above the tire? Is this something that is super common and I could somehow convince my local dealer to repair out of "good will" like was happening with the '06 model year with a similar issue? I've had to do brakes, rotors and as a result of not knowing that Chrysler calipers can't be pressed in, but instead must be wound in, replaced calipers, and also an EGR valve all at the same time. So, needless to say, I'm not excited about doing further repair.
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Bought this cheap 93 grand caravan 3.3 with about 350,000km about 750km ago and it had a bit of a whining sound from the start, thought it was normal for it's life. Last night I was taking my daughter and infant grand-daughter home when there was a terrible clunking, grinding and rattling sound coming from the engine. It was about -20 outside so I decided to just limp it home, but when I got a block from my daughters house I lost power steering. I checked under the hood an saw the belt on the left side with all the pulleys had come off and only one pulley near the bottom was spinning. after trying to spin the other pulleys i noticed one wouldn't spin ether way,and was really hot. thought it might have seized up and threw the belt. Is there a pulley in there that's not supposed to move freely, and if not what should I do now?
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It is as an electronic whistle/humming. The sound is coming from the rear of the van, and no, not when it's moving, even though it still does it when moving. The only thing I can think of would be the fuel pump. Because It's loudest just before the rear tires, not after them. My fiancee has heard it twice now, when she first heard it, I didn't, but this last time when I heard it, I also noticed that the gas gauge was reading just below 1/8 of a tank.
Would like to know if it's the fuel pump or something else I'm no thinking of. And if it means I have to replace the pump.
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I was riding down the interstate this morning and had my cruise control set at 70mph. all of a sudden the cruise just turn off. I went to hit the gas pedal and there was nothing. No check engine light or anything, no spit, no sputter. I pulled off the side of the interstate and attempted to start the van. the engine turns over fine, but no start. all lights, radio work fine. car has fuel. it did not run hot.
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My 1999 Plymouth grand voyager SE 3.3 liter engine has developed a tach and speed. Odometer problem. At various times the tach will surge@ 200 rpm and at the same time the speedometer will top out and then they will return to where they should be. I can make this happen also bye driving in reverse, stopping and putting it in overdrive and the tach and speedometer will surge without the car ever moving...
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I have a 99' GC and just changed out the EGR valve. Now the engine cuts out when you brake or get to a low speed. Idles a little rough also.
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A friend has a 1999 Caravan with the 3.0L engine. He couldn't get it to start and to make a long story short, I checked the fuel pump relay and fuse and they were good but there was no pressure on the fuel rail. Turning the key I couldn't here the fuel pump come on and determined the fuel pump was bad.
I changed the fuel pump and fuel filter put in 1/4 tank of gas and turned the key, and it turned over but wouldn't start. I can audibly hear the fuel pump come on for a second or so, and feel the vibration when I put my hand on it, but there is still no pressure at the fuel rail.
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My wifes 99 voyager power door locks keep locking about every 30 seconds.
I tried cleaning the contacts but this didn't do the trick.
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Just have a quick question. I am replacing some rusted brake lines near the gas tank. I already have the rusted ones cut out. I want to know if this junction box is really needed. If not it would sure take out alot of bending the lines. It looks like the line only come down the frame and bolt into the block and then straight out to the rear wheels.
[IMG][/IMG]...
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Intermittent problem, occurred 4 times during past 4 weeks, always during wet/rainy/damp weather. Three times when car was sitting overnight, once at work in parking lot after a 12 hour work shift. Each time, the engine started 5 or 6 times then died like someone turned the key off two seconds after the engine started. Then the engine would not crank or turn over, just some clicking near the relay box under the hood. Lights, power windows, etc. all work fine. Battery voltage OK. Jump starting or battery charger makes no difference. Note: With key in "run" position, no display to odometer though all idiot lights light up like normal.
1st time, after about 15-20 minutes, car started. 2nd time, towed to my mechanic (who thought security system lock out) then a second tow to dealer. Dealer found power into power distribution center but none out. Replaced PDC. Car worked fine for 1 week. Same problem twice since repair. First post repair failure I had van re-towed to dealer. Of course, it started for them. Left overnight 2 more nights. Started for them every time. They say it is a "problem with computers" but they don't know exactly what. They also say the Alarm set Dash light is coming on with the rest of the dash lights and that is a no-no. 2nd post repair failure happened this morning. Tried locking door to reset alarm. No change. Locked doors, opened rear hatch. Lights flashed but horn did not sound. When car is working and I do that (open hatch with other doors locked), in addition to lights flashing, horn beeps! I also disconnected the positive battery terminal, waited 10 minutes, reconnected and attempted restart. No change. Car still won't start and odometer display does not work.
Van has 110,000 miles. Otherwise in fantastic shape and runs great (though only gets about 20MPG). Owned van for 2 months and have driven about 7,000 miles. 1st problem I've encountered (other than a very uncomfortable drivers seat - feels like a spring is sprung!)
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I am experiencing an annoying noise from the front struts when passing over bumps. I do not believe that the front end is bottoming, but it seems to give a deep thud sound. It is not a tin sound, but more like something loose and insulated. What is a jounce bushing? Are these something in the strut assembly and susceptible to getting loose? I have read about the springs could be the culprit, but could it be that the front spring is bottoming and the strut is hitting a bottoming rubber ? Jounce bushing?
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Service Engine light came on couple days later turned off, came back on today & vehicle stopped shifting into 3rd. Later this evening was driving it and power steering went out, ABS light came on, temp gauge jumping from hot then cold. When Service Engine light came on originally took to autozone. these are the codes given:
P0700
P1776
P0420
I have read problem could be input or output sensor which are $17 bucks each. Going to try those...
Mileage is 145,000
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We just purchased a 2012 Grand Caravan and was wondering where to get a key and program it. I know the key will be an arm and a leg if i get it from the dealer. Is there a tutorial that tells how to program it as well?
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2006 Caravan. Heat comes and goes every minute or so. Also noticed the temp gauge goes from normal operating range to cold and back again frequently. Hasn't overheated. Does that sound like a thermostat problem?
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On my 2005 3.3L Grand Caravan the ABS light keeping coming on. I inspected the sensors for the front and used my compressor to give them a quick puff of air to get rid of dust. The light went off for about 5 days. Now it is back on.
How does one read ABS codes? If I knew for sure that the problem is a speed sensor and which one I could clean or replace the faulty sensor.
If I clean to sensor are there any special precautions I need to take? As far as I could see they didn't look very dirty.
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What am i missing i have a terrible clunk in the front end when i hit bumps. I thought it was the struts and mounting plates so they are new . no change Stabilizer links were tight but i replaced them as well. Everything else seems tight but the noise has not changed with any of the above mentioned repairs.
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I'm having trouble with my 96' 3.0L, its kind of crazy its intermittent and while driving the engines surges one or twice and then dies... when I try to crank it up again cranks but don't starts if I try again it wont even crank ( no starter winding up ) what I noticed is that is I'm driving when it dies my check engine light disappears for a while and if I connect my OBD 2 reader does not link up with the ECU if I wait a while and I crank it up again its starts and the while cranking up I can hear a bang noise from the engine compartment drives side and then after a couple of minutes dies again...
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