Caravan/Voyager :: 1999 Cannot Get Started - No Pressure On Fuel Rail
May 30, 2016
A friend has a 1999 Caravan with the 3.0L engine. He couldn't get it to start and to make a long story short, I checked the fuel pump relay and fuse and they were good but there was no pressure on the fuel rail. Turning the key I couldn't here the fuel pump come on and determined the fuel pump was bad.
I changed the fuel pump and fuel filter put in 1/4 tank of gas and turned the key, and it turned over but wouldn't start. I can audibly hear the fuel pump come on for a second or so, and feel the vibration when I put my hand on it, but there is still no pressure at the fuel rail.
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I have a 1993 Dodge Grand Caravan. I found a small leak in my fuel rail. Can I buy a repair kit for this or do I need to find a new fuel rail? If so where to find a rail for a van this old?
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Next mods are for the fuel rail cross over and the high pressure oil cross over. I see the unused ports will come in handy.
Fuel delivery? any specialty mods to run the fuel lines? I see it's a #4 ORB fitting. Anyone ever use a "T" or a splitter off the fuel bowl to have a quad line set up?
Saw the FRx from RiffRaff .... not sure how it eliminates air from the system 7.3L Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover? (FRx) 99-03 Powerstroke
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I cant find the port on fuel rail to get a fuel pressure reading.it is nothing like my tarus.saw astem sticking up on front right of rail but it has some kind of covering over it. It is a 2005 freestar with the 3.9 motor.
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I have a 1987 jeep cherokee with inline 6 and multi port injection.
Sometimes this vehicle only starts when hot
Some times only when it cold
I have recently fixed the fuel leak.
When its hot or cold and not starting if i relieve the fuel pressure at the fuel rail, in most cases it will start immediately. However if fuel pressure relief does not work. I disconnect the vacuum line at the what looks to be the EGR valve or the pressure regulator at the front end of the rail, then usually starts right away.
I have not tested at this time to see if the fuel pump is failing nor have i tested fuel pressure. I am trying to narrow down the problem to one specific part. There is no problems with cranking. There is spark - coil, plug, dist cap have been replaced.
It seems the problem is with fuel delivery of sorts. It was mentioned that sometimes the heat from the engine could be heating the fuel rail to a point which turns the fuel into a gas not allowing it to atomize.
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I am getting no pressure at the fuel rail. Relay seems to be ok, so I am assuming the pump just failed (in the driveway luckily). Before I drop the fuel tank, I would like to confirm I am getting voltage back to the pump. I cannot fine any wiring in or under the car going to that area! How to find that circuit as close to the pump as possible and still accessible without dropping the tank?
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2007 town & country with 93k when car is started (cold) after setting to completely cold have a whirring noise that goes away after car is completely warmed up thought was alternator but noise doesn't seem to be coming from there .... 3.3l engine ....
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MY gc started cutting out a few weeks ago while idling in gear. I changed out the four plugs I could get the wires off. It's a v6. It started running better for a couple of days. I need to know of any way to get the stuck boot off. I also have a feeling there is something else wrong. Anything else that might be causing it to cut out. It has progressed to cutting out while going down the highway.
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My old 1997 Dodge Caravan (150k miles) has weak brakes. During normal driving, it needs more pressure on the pedal to brake normally, than any other car that I have driven. This would be ok as I can push hard on the pedal... But the problem is that, past some point, I get no additional braking power no matter how hard I push.
So in case of an emergency, I cannot come anywhere close to lock the wheels (and this car does not have ABS). So basically, the braking power is proportional to how hard I push, up to a point where the braking power remains the same no matter how hard I push. At that point the pedal is maybe 1/3 down, still very far from the floor.
I have just replaced the front pads and rotor with no improvement. And when the engine is not running, the pedal gets really hard after I depress the brakes 3 times, indicating that the booster is doing something. The car will stay in the driveway for now as this is a dangerous situation.
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I picked up a Haynes manual for the engine/head removal. It has the procedure for 2003 pressure release by unplugging the fuel pump and running until it dies. Unfortunately the car does not run. I do not know what to do now.
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Last week, my van started chugging and the keydance code indicated random misfire. I changed the front spark plugs and wires and it ran a little better but still showed the error. Took it to my trusted mechanic and he changed the back 3 wires and plugs and the coil pack. Code now showed misfire on one of the back cylinders(I forgot which one). 2 Mechanics both confirmed good spark and gas at the cylinder. He is saying that there is a mechanical problem in the cylinder and the fix would be over $1k.
The van has over 250k on it so it's not worth the engine work. I asked about a compression test and was told that it's almost impossible to test the rear cylinders without doing a ton of work, and that they are 95% sure that it is a mechanical problem with the cylinder. I've known the mechanic for over 20 years and he is an honest guy, and knows that I won't do the expensive repair, so he's not trying to rip me off.
I don't have the facilities or knowledge to do the work, so it looks like I'm screwed. Is there anything else that I should be doing before I write the van off? It does run, but very rough at low speed, and no power at high speed, and mech says that the unburned gas will eventually screw things up.
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I stopped and when I started the SF the engine light stayed on. I shut it off and checked oil. Oil good. When I started it again it didn't start as swiftly as it normally would. Since I still had 150km to go in the dark I decided to give it a whirl as the alternative, like waiting for a tow truck, would be many hours.
Max rpm, about 2000. Give more gas and it sputters. Eventually nursed it to maintain 80-100 kmh at the 2k rpm. Since it was mostly downhill I continued to at least get closer to civilization. Found sort of a sweet spot and was able to maintain 100kmh on level ground and lost some on grades. Engine was running smooth.
As it turned out I made it home. Total milage on SF: 58,250 km. Guess I'll see what the dealer says on Monday.
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I have a 96 Grand Voyager that had had sat for a year undriven or started due to being out of state. It ran like a champ when I parked it. Now I charged the battery and went for a drive on the freeway and my check engine light came on and started blinking. I had the code read it came back with 2 codes a P0306 and a P0300. I noticed that the cylinder 6 spark plug wire was arcing on the core support. So I replaced all the plug wires and spark plugs with Champion platinum spark plugs. I cleared the codes and took it on a test drive and the P0300 code came back. Is there anyway the old gas is causing the random misfire? or what else could it be?
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I have 1990 dodge caravan v6, i checked to see if i got power to the fuel pump and there no power going
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So I've gotten this error code a few times now but never a CEL nor does the car drive any diff.
1 Fault Found:
000136 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure: Too High
P0088 - 000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
[Code] ....
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My van has quit me finally. It only has 98,000 original miles on it. Right now the car really smells like it is loading up and not properly burning fuel. Also a huge amount of white smoke is coming from the exhaust pipe. The oil pressure is good. could it be as simple as new plugs and plug wires, coil pack etc.
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I was riding down the interstate this morning and had my cruise control set at 70mph. all of a sudden the cruise just turn off. I went to hit the gas pedal and there was nothing. No check engine light or anything, no spit, no sputter. I pulled off the side of the interstate and attempted to start the van. the engine turns over fine, but no start. all lights, radio work fine. car has fuel. it did not run hot.
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My 1999 Plymouth grand voyager SE 3.3 liter engine has developed a tach and speed. Odometer problem. At various times the tach will surge@ 200 rpm and at the same time the speedometer will top out and then they will return to where they should be. I can make this happen also bye driving in reverse, stopping and putting it in overdrive and the tach and speedometer will surge without the car ever moving...
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I have a 99' GC and just changed out the EGR valve. Now the engine cuts out when you brake or get to a low speed. Idles a little rough also.
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I have a 99 voyager that has started making a whirring sound this last week. The water pump, serpentine belt, tensioner have all been replace several months ago. The battery light came on for about a minute and then went off the last night. I checked the voltage with the engine running and it measured 12.5, the same as when it is off. When I revved it up the voltage went up to 14.4 volts. Is this normal? What could be making the whirring sound?
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My wifes 99 voyager power door locks keep locking about every 30 seconds.
I tried cleaning the contacts but this didn't do the trick.
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