Caravan/Voyager :: 1998 - Passenger Side Window Keeps Falling Off Track
Jul 8, 2014
My 1998 T&C has a problem where the front passenger window keeps falling off the track (caused by hard slamming of the door).
I've gone into the door multiple times to pop the rear-most peg back into the white plastic window track "dog", but it keeps popping out after moderate door slams. Do the black pegs that are glued to the window wear out? (I think they're metal).
I think the plastic track dog is fine, and I make sure the metal clip is fully engaged with the window peg each time I pop it back in. The only reason I can come up with for this problem is that the window peg is worn down and has lost its "edge" and thus the metal clips can no longer retain it. Sound reasonable? Probably need a new window from junkyard correct?
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Yesterday my passenger front window popped out of it's track. Then when we tried to pop it back in and get it to go back up, it completely popped out and up about 3 inches from the frame of the door. Enough to be able to fit a had through no problem.
I am taking the car in tomorrow to have it looked at and get a quote to fix. From what I've read, it's a super pricey fix. So bummed because I just bought the car about 6 weeks ago (if that) ...
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98 dodge caravan 3.3L v6 ..... All lights work including driver's side tail lights. only problem is that when pressing brake pedal, the driver's side brake light does not light up. i changed the bulb and checked the brake light fuse under the hood, but it was fine (as i guessed since the passenger side and middle brake lights work). I took the assembly off and reseated the connector to the tail light assembly, but same issue.
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I have a problem with our 97 Grand Caravan, (3.3L, 41TE tranny) Its a vibration that seems to be coming from the passenger side CV Axle.... the transmission side of the universal joint on the new axle.
We started having problems with this in December, I've done most of the work myself but still had the problem... Vibrations that seem to start and get worse at around 35 - 55 MPH. I've replaced rims, wheel bearings, both cv axles, tires, brake pads & rotors, sway bar links and bushings, tie rod ends, (inner & outer) and ball joints. (about $1,200. in new parts & tires)
In April, I finally took it to several transmission shops and talked to the operators.... The shop I chose because I could relate to the owner and felt I could trust him. The wife and I knew it was a vehicle we couldn't replace for the price of a transmission overhaul and when the shop called and told me all was fixed by replacing the new cv axle on the passenger side I was ecstatic that the problem would be fixed.... I go ahead and rebuild the transmission anyway, (now @ 289,000 miles!) .... The wife and I want to get as many miles out of this thing as we can at this point and our daughter will be driving it to high school next year.
Anyway, I get the car back late on a friday evening.... by the time I got it home I knew there was a big problem.... I put it up on jacks in the garage and saw the passenger side axle was "Slamming" in and out of the transmission!!! I test drove it on a few more short trips and took it back a week later.
About 1 1/2 weeks later I get a call and the shop owner says it is the CV axle thats bad.... AGAIIN??? Lets see, I replaced the original axles. Then "they" replaced both axles after I returned the ones I put in for warranty (Autozone) and now a 3rd axle is bad too? He insists on a different brand of axle (Napa). So when I get the car back, I again am feeling some vibrations.... not nearly as bad as it was before, and put the car up on jacks again.
This time, I don't see the axle slamming in and out of the tranny but I see the vibration comming from the trany side of the CV axle. (passenger side axle again) and I notice some grey goop on the housing fitting that wasn't there before on the trany.... This is when I started having my doubts about the shop and what they are telling me. They just replaced the axle, didn't do anything in the tranny. To beat all, theres now a fluid leak somewhere and its staining the garage floor.
Its been over two weeks now and the shop owner called me to tell me that its again the passenger side axle thats bad and that its a seal somewhere tha'ts leaking so he's gonna have to pull the tranny to get at it. I told him what I saw when I put it up on jacks in my garage.... the vibrating CV axle on the passenger side of the tranny.... He assures me that if it were a bearing it would be making some noises. He's even sent the car to a trusted tire shop and they turned the rim on the tire or something.... he's doing everything he can to make sure the problem is taken care of.
I know what I saw under the car. Just the "passenger side" axle as it is coming out of the transmission housing is moving up/down/around and that's where my vibration is coming from. The end of the axles (tire side) were running true. What's involved in repairing the differential side bearings in these tranny's? I'm going fully loaded to the Transmission shop when its ready and I'm going to insist we look at it while its on the rack. I just need to know how to check these differential side bearings.
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My 2007 Dodge Caravan has only one working headlight, the passenger side does not work on high or low beams.
At this time I'm wondering if the problem is in the headlight plug itself, because there are no other complications other than the passenger side not working.
The light did work at first on high beams but now not at all. replacing bulbs makes no difference. There is some brown discoloring on the white strip on the plug face, nothing like this on the driver side.
Also hoping that the problem is not the relay or front control module.
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I have a 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE. It has 122000 mi. I just bought it a few months ago and have came across a few minor problems and all have been easy DIY projects (couple of blown fuses, wiper replacement etc..) Recently, I noticed the AC stopped working (it was only tested once when I bought it, but have not used it since)
Where to begin the diagnosis. Is there a fuse connected to the functioning of the AC? I really don't know a whole lot about cars, but I am pretty good at fixing things in general.
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I took the van on a road trip and the engine seems like it wants to stall at lights. the idle stays at 500 rpm or so most of the time while at stops. there appears to be no way to adjust the idle and there is no Czech injun light on.. what could the problem be? the engine is a 3.8l
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2005 Jetta, passenger side window has been falling out of it's track for the past several months. Sometimes a pothole bump is enough to drop it into the door, and if I roll it up all the way, it is unable to be rolled down again unless I squeeze both sides of the window and realign it. if I leave it even a cm less than fully up, it stays on track somehow...
I've read that this is semi-common in Jetta's of this year, and that it's due to a "window clip" that made out of some cheap plastic snapping. I've called pep boy's and NAPA auto parts near me (MA) and both said they don't carry that sort of thing and I need to go to a dealer. The dealers tell me that they won't sell the plastic piece alone, and that I must basically buy the full new module (glass, track, clips, and all the other stuff that I don't need).
Where I might be able to get only the cheap plastic piece by itself, or how I can fix the problem without spending hundreds on a entirely new system?
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I'm about to put a new tailgate on a 98 Dodge Caravan. I got hit in the back and I bought a new back door at the junk yard. It looks pretty easy, but I thought I would touch base here and there are a couple of potentially tricky parts...
Does that wire bundle have a block somewhere that you can plug, or am I going to be splicing them one by one? (I don't have power locks. I have windshield wiper, back door inside light, license plate light, heat wires in the glass.) The other tricky part..changing the lock.
I think that's all.. the bolts and star screws look pretty straightforward. I got it used with 48k miles a couple years ago and I only have 75k now. It was a government car.
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My father's 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan SE radiator fan runs constantly - even with the ignition off. He has to disengage the battery for the fan to quit running - what might be wrong?
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I have a 1998 Caravan and the engine cooling fans wont go on. Ive replaced the relay and the temp sensor. When I pull the connector off the temp sensor the fans go on so I know the fans and fuses are fine. For some reason it seems the computer module isnt sending a signal to the relay to turn the fan on. I get the trouble codes P1491(radiator fan relay circuit fault) and P0118(engine coolant temp circuit high input).
I am also having a problem with the air conditioning not working. When I do the self diagnostic test on the A/C the results are that it fails the cool-down test. Why the computer module isn't sending a signal to the relay? Could the A/C problem be causing the cooling fans not to come on?
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The battery light came on, alt not charging. I have taken it off twice and had it checked, both times I had it checked it showed good, when I put it back on it charged for a bit and then the light came back on and it showed no charging at the battery. Second time the place checked it they ran the check cycle 4 times in a row to see if it had a problem when the electronics started warming up... still showed all green.
I thought perhaps the wires going to the alt, so I had the wife start the van up and I moved the wires around going to the alt to see if it made the batt light flicker, no joy. (real fun getting your hand back there while the van is running)
The large wire shows batt voltage where it hooks on to the alt, running or not...... the two prong plug that goes into the alt shows no voltage unhooked with the key on, and no voltage plugged in with the key on or running.
I have been told there is a control unit that controls the output of the alternator. I have checked every fuse in the fusebox under the dash and in the engine compartment. Fuseable link on big wire going to the alt should be good as I do get battery voltage to the alt from the battery, correct?
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Recently disconnected the battery, now rear window switch flashes whenever the door is opened and the hvac switches will not work for around 30 seconds, how to recalibrate the door/hvac system...
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My wife has been driving our 98 Dodge Grand Caravan the last couple of days and while she is driving the Tachometer and Speedometer will drop to 0. This does not affect the performance of the engine or anything else. Runs and drives "perfect" (or at least for its age and mileage). The dash seems to "reset" when she parks and turns off the ignition then restarts it.
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The heater fan in the van will only work on full blast and the rear wiper/ ac button lights flash which I had another 98 caravan that I was driving that had the same issue with the flashing lights. What is that all about?
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Just changed the battery on a '98 Grand Caravan 3.3. In the process of tightening the positive terminal I accidentally touched the wrench to the negative. There was a spark, of course, but otherwise no biggie. However, now the HVAC indicator lights, including the rear wiper, defroster, etc. indicator lights, all blink continuously until about 15 minutes of driving, then they return to normal. I disconnected the battery thinking that I needed to clear the PCM but the blinking always returns. Is this some sort of manual code reading deal? If so there's no mention of it in the Haynes manual.
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It is as an electronic whistle/humming. The sound is coming from the rear of the van, and no, not when it's moving, even though it still does it when moving. The only thing I can think of would be the fuel pump. Because It's loudest just before the rear tires, not after them. My fiancee has heard it twice now, when she first heard it, I didn't, but this last time when I heard it, I also noticed that the gas gauge was reading just below 1/8 of a tank.
Would like to know if it's the fuel pump or something else I'm no thinking of. And if it means I have to replace the pump.
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Having problem with the front electric window sliding out of it's track? My friend's 2001 Accent has been doing this with the driver's window when going up. It gets between about 1/4 to 1/3 closed and suddenly the glass jumps slightly left out of the track on the right-hand side of the door frame.
The drivers door is on the right, it's the tallest part of the door frame it's jumping out from. If the glass is pushed right by hand it pops back into the track and the window can be closed normally.
I've had the door card off and can't see anything broken with the window regulator. With the window down it's possible to rock the glass left and right so something is obviously loose or not holding as it should be, but I can't find any loose or broken clips where the glass is attached to the white plastic thing which holds it onto the central regulator rail, it all looks intact.
I was expecting to find something broken or slack which could be causing this but I really can't.
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The driver side track on the bottom of the window has rusted out on my 1994 GMC Sierra pickup. Every place I've talked to that is supposed to handle glass repairs either doesn't fix this kind of thing or just plain doesn't want to attempt to fix it. The only advice one place would offer is to buy a new window with a good track on it, but how to get the old one out without breaking it or putting a new one in. I know they sell just the track for these windows, but I don't know how to remove the old one without breaking the glass.
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I noticed the driver side window in my car is loose. It wiggles on the track when rolled down 2-6 inches. You can also hear it in the door when the door is closed when it is rolled down all the way. It sounds like the windows on the old Trans Ams and Camros, which were always loise. It became loose between the first scheduled service and the one year service.
I mentioned it at the one year. The tech said all 4 2014 SE's had the same problem. He showed me it, too. He told me there was nothing he could do since its how Toyota made the car. And the other cars had the same problem. Since he said there was nothing he could do about it, I called Toyota to report it.
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I've fixed one source of water that was leaking into the passenger side footwell via the insulation surrounding the A/D drain line, but I still have a leak on the drivers side after a rain, and it's strange. Unlike the leak on the passenger side, this one is not coming along the firewall - the firewall is bone dry. The water seems to be coming vertically straight down, landing on the floor mat, but I can't tell where it's coming from. Not only is the firewall dry, but so is the carpet on all sides of the puddle that collects in the rubber floor mat.
Also, I haven't been able to create the leak by spraying water on the van - I washed it today, for example, and not a drop came in. But we had a light rain last night, and there was a puddle on the floor mat (good thing it's rubber) when I opened the door this morning. I've stuck my head up under the dash immediately after I had found water on the floor mat, but can't for the life of me see any sign of wetness above the location of the water on the floor mat.
And yes, I've cleaned out the drain lines under the cowl in front of the windshield. Where this mystery leak may be coming from?
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