Caravan/Voyager :: 1998 - Battery Light Comes On - Not Charging
Mar 5, 2010
The battery light came on, alt not charging. I have taken it off twice and had it checked, both times I had it checked it showed good, when I put it back on it charged for a bit and then the light came back on and it showed no charging at the battery. Second time the place checked it they ran the check cycle 4 times in a row to see if it had a problem when the electronics started warming up... still showed all green.
I thought perhaps the wires going to the alt, so I had the wife start the van up and I moved the wires around going to the alt to see if it made the batt light flicker, no joy. (real fun getting your hand back there while the van is running)
The large wire shows batt voltage where it hooks on to the alt, running or not...... the two prong plug that goes into the alt shows no voltage unhooked with the key on, and no voltage plugged in with the key on or running.
I have been told there is a control unit that controls the output of the alternator. I have checked every fuse in the fusebox under the dash and in the engine compartment. Fuseable link on big wire going to the alt should be good as I do get battery voltage to the alt from the battery, correct?
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Just changed the battery on a '98 Grand Caravan 3.3. In the process of tightening the positive terminal I accidentally touched the wrench to the negative. There was a spark, of course, but otherwise no biggie. However, now the HVAC indicator lights, including the rear wiper, defroster, etc. indicator lights, all blink continuously until about 15 minutes of driving, then they return to normal. I disconnected the battery thinking that I needed to clear the PCM but the blinking always returns. Is this some sort of manual code reading deal? If so there's no mention of it in the Haynes manual.
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98 dodge caravan 3.3L v6 ..... All lights work including driver's side tail lights. only problem is that when pressing brake pedal, the driver's side brake light does not light up. i changed the bulb and checked the brake light fuse under the hood, but it was fine (as i guessed since the passenger side and middle brake lights work). I took the assembly off and reseated the connector to the tail light assembly, but same issue.
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I am about 600 miles from home and when I was driving on the intertsate the battery light came on. I am in northern Maine where there are long stretches of nothing. I checked to make sure the belt was on and it runs fine. When I got to civilization I shut it off and it started and the light went out. Now I don't know if I should trust it or try and get to a dealer 70 miles away?
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I have a 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE. It has 122000 mi. I just bought it a few months ago and have came across a few minor problems and all have been easy DIY projects (couple of blown fuses, wiper replacement etc..) Recently, I noticed the AC stopped working (it was only tested once when I bought it, but have not used it since)
Where to begin the diagnosis. Is there a fuse connected to the functioning of the AC? I really don't know a whole lot about cars, but I am pretty good at fixing things in general.
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I took the van on a road trip and the engine seems like it wants to stall at lights. the idle stays at 500 rpm or so most of the time while at stops. there appears to be no way to adjust the idle and there is no Czech injun light on.. what could the problem be? the engine is a 3.8l
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I'm about to put a new tailgate on a 98 Dodge Caravan. I got hit in the back and I bought a new back door at the junk yard. It looks pretty easy, but I thought I would touch base here and there are a couple of potentially tricky parts...
Does that wire bundle have a block somewhere that you can plug, or am I going to be splicing them one by one? (I don't have power locks. I have windshield wiper, back door inside light, license plate light, heat wires in the glass.) The other tricky part..changing the lock.
I think that's all.. the bolts and star screws look pretty straightforward. I got it used with 48k miles a couple years ago and I only have 75k now. It was a government car.
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My father's 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan SE radiator fan runs constantly - even with the ignition off. He has to disengage the battery for the fan to quit running - what might be wrong?
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I have a 1998 Caravan and the engine cooling fans wont go on. Ive replaced the relay and the temp sensor. When I pull the connector off the temp sensor the fans go on so I know the fans and fuses are fine. For some reason it seems the computer module isnt sending a signal to the relay to turn the fan on. I get the trouble codes P1491(radiator fan relay circuit fault) and P0118(engine coolant temp circuit high input).
I am also having a problem with the air conditioning not working. When I do the self diagnostic test on the A/C the results are that it fails the cool-down test. Why the computer module isn't sending a signal to the relay? Could the A/C problem be causing the cooling fans not to come on?
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My wife has been driving our 98 Dodge Grand Caravan the last couple of days and while she is driving the Tachometer and Speedometer will drop to 0. This does not affect the performance of the engine or anything else. Runs and drives "perfect" (or at least for its age and mileage). The dash seems to "reset" when she parks and turns off the ignition then restarts it.
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The heater fan in the van will only work on full blast and the rear wiper/ ac button lights flash which I had another 98 caravan that I was driving that had the same issue with the flashing lights. What is that all about?
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It is as an electronic whistle/humming. The sound is coming from the rear of the van, and no, not when it's moving, even though it still does it when moving. The only thing I can think of would be the fuel pump. Because It's loudest just before the rear tires, not after them. My fiancee has heard it twice now, when she first heard it, I didn't, but this last time when I heard it, I also noticed that the gas gauge was reading just below 1/8 of a tank.
Would like to know if it's the fuel pump or something else I'm no thinking of. And if it means I have to replace the pump.
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My 1998 T&C has a problem where the front passenger window keeps falling off the track (caused by hard slamming of the door).
I've gone into the door multiple times to pop the rear-most peg back into the white plastic window track "dog", but it keeps popping out after moderate door slams. Do the black pegs that are glued to the window wear out? (I think they're metal).
I think the plastic track dog is fine, and I make sure the metal clip is fully engaged with the window peg each time I pop it back in. The only reason I can come up with for this problem is that the window peg is worn down and has lost its "edge" and thus the metal clips can no longer retain it. Sound reasonable? Probably need a new window from junkyard correct?
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I have a 99 Voyager with 88,000 miles. Brand new battery 12/12/06- won't start 3 weeks later - cleaned & protected battery connectors - still no start if left for more then 4 hours undriven Battery tested fine- being drained approx 2 amps- something left on...? Now there is a clicking sound under the dash before trying to start. Could it be some type of relay being left open or fuse or
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I've tried putting new batteries in my mini van and the battery goes dead after a day or 2. I've had it to the dealer before and they said it's a bad battery. which clearly it's not. I had a meter between the grounds on the battery and pulled all fuses under the hood and no change. I'm a quadriplegic and it's a nightmare when I go out with my aid to go to a doctors appointment and my van is dead. I don't have any money for the dealer again. I don't think the chrysler dealer even looked at it and took advantage of my situation. Its a 2003 Town country with only 29,000 miles. could it be the alternator drawing power when the car is off?
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Working on a 2001 caravan. Been sitting for about 6 months with no battery installed. decided to work on it. Got a new battery, and when I connected it the alarm went off. I dont have panic button for it so I unhooked the bat.
I think I hooked the bat back up with the thicker gray key in the ignition. I think that is the key with the chip.
The alarm did not sound but the engine will not crank, seems like it it in some security mode blocking start up. I tried cycling the key in the driver door but that did not work.
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We bought a new battery the van would not spark when the battery was fully charged but when the battery gets low it start to spark...
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So my radiator fans were staying on until my battery died and my car was completely cooled down and off. I was told it was a sticking relay so I replaced it and the fans still won't come on. I unplugged the coolant temp sensor and the fans came on so I know its not the motors or anything.
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I bought some long beams at the local lumber yard. So drove home with the rear cargo door open. The ABS light went on brakes were pulsing mildly and making an odd sound. I cant see why the rear cargo door would have any connection with the ABS system so I assume that's a coincidence.I took the van to the local car store they scanned the code. It scanned code 4 indicating the passenger front sensor. I replaced the sensor but the ABS light is still on. Is there a reset function to clear the code disconnecting the battery didn't work? Or am I looking at another component failure?
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On my 2005 3.3L Grand Caravan the ABS light keeping coming on. I inspected the sensors for the front and used my compressor to give them a quick puff of air to get rid of dust. The light went off for about 5 days. Now it is back on.
How does one read ABS codes? If I knew for sure that the problem is a speed sensor and which one I could clean or replace the faulty sensor.
If I clean to sensor are there any special precautions I need to take? As far as I could see they didn't look very dirty.
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Intermittently the ABS Light is coming on. 84,000 miles.
Brakes have been changed once, 10,000 miles ago.
Minor clunk sound when light is on.
Light goes off after van has set, brakes work fine at that point.
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