Caravan/Voyager :: 1998 - AC Stopped Working
Apr 2, 2007
I have a 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE. It has 122000 mi. I just bought it a few months ago and have came across a few minor problems and all have been easy DIY projects (couple of blown fuses, wiper replacement etc..) Recently, I noticed the AC stopped working (it was only tested once when I bought it, but have not used it since)
Where to begin the diagnosis. Is there a fuse connected to the functioning of the AC? I really don't know a whole lot about cars, but I am pretty good at fixing things in general.
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The problem I am having with my 2009 Grand Caravan SE is the drivers door controls stopped working. I cant use the power windows locks or door locks and the background light is off also, the front passenger side and middle row locks etc work. On the driver door the only things that work are the 2 back vent windows.
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98 dodge caravan 3.3L v6 ..... All lights work including driver's side tail lights. only problem is that when pressing brake pedal, the driver's side brake light does not light up. i changed the bulb and checked the brake light fuse under the hood, but it was fine (as i guessed since the passenger side and middle brake lights work). I took the assembly off and reseated the connector to the tail light assembly, but same issue.
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I took the van on a road trip and the engine seems like it wants to stall at lights. the idle stays at 500 rpm or so most of the time while at stops. there appears to be no way to adjust the idle and there is no Czech injun light on.. what could the problem be? the engine is a 3.8l
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I'm about to put a new tailgate on a 98 Dodge Caravan. I got hit in the back and I bought a new back door at the junk yard. It looks pretty easy, but I thought I would touch base here and there are a couple of potentially tricky parts...
Does that wire bundle have a block somewhere that you can plug, or am I going to be splicing them one by one? (I don't have power locks. I have windshield wiper, back door inside light, license plate light, heat wires in the glass.) The other tricky part..changing the lock.
I think that's all.. the bolts and star screws look pretty straightforward. I got it used with 48k miles a couple years ago and I only have 75k now. It was a government car.
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My father's 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan SE radiator fan runs constantly - even with the ignition off. He has to disengage the battery for the fan to quit running - what might be wrong?
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I have a 1998 Caravan and the engine cooling fans wont go on. Ive replaced the relay and the temp sensor. When I pull the connector off the temp sensor the fans go on so I know the fans and fuses are fine. For some reason it seems the computer module isnt sending a signal to the relay to turn the fan on. I get the trouble codes P1491(radiator fan relay circuit fault) and P0118(engine coolant temp circuit high input).
I am also having a problem with the air conditioning not working. When I do the self diagnostic test on the A/C the results are that it fails the cool-down test. Why the computer module isn't sending a signal to the relay? Could the A/C problem be causing the cooling fans not to come on?
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The battery light came on, alt not charging. I have taken it off twice and had it checked, both times I had it checked it showed good, when I put it back on it charged for a bit and then the light came back on and it showed no charging at the battery. Second time the place checked it they ran the check cycle 4 times in a row to see if it had a problem when the electronics started warming up... still showed all green.
I thought perhaps the wires going to the alt, so I had the wife start the van up and I moved the wires around going to the alt to see if it made the batt light flicker, no joy. (real fun getting your hand back there while the van is running)
The large wire shows batt voltage where it hooks on to the alt, running or not...... the two prong plug that goes into the alt shows no voltage unhooked with the key on, and no voltage plugged in with the key on or running.
I have been told there is a control unit that controls the output of the alternator. I have checked every fuse in the fusebox under the dash and in the engine compartment. Fuseable link on big wire going to the alt should be good as I do get battery voltage to the alt from the battery, correct?
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96 plymouth voyger se 3.3 6cly motor cut off while driving down highway or when stopped no check engine light...
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My wife has been driving our 98 Dodge Grand Caravan the last couple of days and while she is driving the Tachometer and Speedometer will drop to 0. This does not affect the performance of the engine or anything else. Runs and drives "perfect" (or at least for its age and mileage). The dash seems to "reset" when she parks and turns off the ignition then restarts it.
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The heater fan in the van will only work on full blast and the rear wiper/ ac button lights flash which I had another 98 caravan that I was driving that had the same issue with the flashing lights. What is that all about?
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Just changed the battery on a '98 Grand Caravan 3.3. In the process of tightening the positive terminal I accidentally touched the wrench to the negative. There was a spark, of course, but otherwise no biggie. However, now the HVAC indicator lights, including the rear wiper, defroster, etc. indicator lights, all blink continuously until about 15 minutes of driving, then they return to normal. I disconnected the battery thinking that I needed to clear the PCM but the blinking always returns. Is this some sort of manual code reading deal? If so there's no mention of it in the Haynes manual.
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I have a 2002 Town and Country LX with the 3.3L V6. Recently the check engine light went on and later the transmission stopped shifting from 3rd to 4th gear. All the gears work properly except for 4th. It doesn't seem like anything is wrong with the transmission, would this be a sensor problem? If so which sensor would need to be replaced?
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It is as an electronic whistle/humming. The sound is coming from the rear of the van, and no, not when it's moving, even though it still does it when moving. The only thing I can think of would be the fuel pump. Because It's loudest just before the rear tires, not after them. My fiancee has heard it twice now, when she first heard it, I didn't, but this last time when I heard it, I also noticed that the gas gauge was reading just below 1/8 of a tank.
Would like to know if it's the fuel pump or something else I'm no thinking of. And if it means I have to replace the pump.
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My 1998 T&C has a problem where the front passenger window keeps falling off the track (caused by hard slamming of the door).
I've gone into the door multiple times to pop the rear-most peg back into the white plastic window track "dog", but it keeps popping out after moderate door slams. Do the black pegs that are glued to the window wear out? (I think they're metal).
I think the plastic track dog is fine, and I make sure the metal clip is fully engaged with the window peg each time I pop it back in. The only reason I can come up with for this problem is that the window peg is worn down and has lost its "edge" and thus the metal clips can no longer retain it. Sound reasonable? Probably need a new window from junkyard correct?
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Service Engine light came on couple days later turned off, came back on today & vehicle stopped shifting into 3rd. Later this evening was driving it and power steering went out, ABS light came on, temp gauge jumping from hot then cold. When Service Engine light came on originally took to autozone. these are the codes given:
P0700
P1776
P0420
I have read problem could be input or output sensor which are $17 bucks each. Going to try those...
Mileage is 145,000
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I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan with a heater blower that doesn't seem to be working. Whether the heater knob is on low or high, it does nothing, but you can feel a little heat coming out, though. I was told it may be a resistor behind the glove box. I've already checked the fuse, and it seems OK. What do I do?
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My 1996 Caravan gauges do not work at all. I have checked the fuse(s), and thay are all fine.The rest of the van works just fine. The fuel, temp,tach, and speed gauges do not work. The odo does not show up either. What to do?
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I have a 2000 Dodge Caravan. The power lock switches are no longer working (both driver and front passenger). They worked fine the last time I drove the vehicle and both switches stopped working at the same time. The power locks themselves still function with the remote and still lock when speed reaches 25km. Just the actual switches on the doors are not functioning.
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I'm having trouble with my 2000 Grand Caravan 3.3L. The gauge cluster was working intermittently & recently quit. I have the P1698 trouble code & looked up info online. I of course found out about the solder joint problem & figured that would be the culprit. I took the dash apart & found the solder joints were fine, but when coming apart, the wire plug on the back side came out on it's own. The retaining clip was broke & I thought maybe that was my problem. There's enough room to install a zip tie to hold the plug in & I put it back together. It still doesn't work though.
Here's the symptoms- I turn the key to ignition & nothing in the instrument cluster comes on. When I start the engine, everything lights & works as normal except for the trans indicator- the letters light, but no position shown (regardless of any gear selection). This continues for about 5-10 seconds & the trans position indicator lights up around EVERY letter. A few seconds later the entire dash goes down. I then shut off the engine by only turning the key back 1 notch. At this key position the odometer & trans indicator come on & the trans indicator will properly display every selected position correctly. It is consistently working this way every time now. The heat is also stuck on hot & the rear window wiper/ washer is not working.
I've also pulled the body module to check for connection problems & don't find anything with that. I've pulled the fuse under the hood too. So far no luck.
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1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 180K 3.3L
I read other threads about the connections under the hood, both sides, which I unplugged and replugged. I also pulled the IOD fuse for a little bit. Then I removed the cluster and looked it over. Looked good to me.
Got code P1698 for manufacturers assembly control or something to that effect. Thought I checked all the usual culprits. The dash lights work fine, so does everything else. The dash gauges just don't work. This is something that has been an intermittent problem with the dash gauges going out periodically when hitting a bump. It leads me to believe a connection. But I checked all those.
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