I start my van and open the hood to check Coolant and I notice gas spilling out engine and running down the side close to my power steering pump. So I stop the vehicle and notice gas sprayed on different parts by the back spark plugs and a little area by sensor.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1997 Voyager that I am having a thumping noise that is coming from a black module that is mounted in the engine compartment over the passenger side fenderwell. It has 2 vacuum lines and an electrical connection coming off of it, one of the vacuum lines has a tag on it that says EVAP. The engine seems to be running fine, although every now and then it seems like it might idle a bit rough, and there are no CEL on or codes in the computer. Don't know what is this module called.
View 3 RepliesWife telling the brakes went out but fluid is leaking under center of vehicle when brake is pressed. Is this just a rear brake line issue?
View 2 RepliesI have a 97 voyager. recently the airbag light has been coming on then off. now it is on all the time. In addition to the air bag light being on the horn and the steering wheel cruse control does not work. The fuses and relays are all good. I was wondering if the clock spring is the problem?
View 2 RepliesI was riding down the interstate this morning and had my cruise control set at 70mph. all of a sudden the cruise just turn off. I went to hit the gas pedal and there was nothing. No check engine light or anything, no spit, no sputter. I pulled off the side of the interstate and attempted to start the van. the engine turns over fine, but no start. all lights, radio work fine. car has fuel. it did not run hot.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 dodge caravan and today after taking my kids kids to school, I noticed white smoke coming from the hood of the engine. I managed to get home and check it out. With further inspection, smelled like some type of fluid is burning off I can't tell if it's oil or anti freeze. There seems to be some type of condensation in the inside of my van on the passenger windshield. I looked to check to see any leaks inside on the floor mat and underneath the van itself and nothing. What seems to be the issue?
View 6 RepliesMy transmission is slipping when the engine is cold. Fluid levels seem fine. I do have a fluid leak that I monitor and add fluid when needed. It's an 05 touring with 167k miles.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1998 Caravan and the engine cooling fans wont go on. Ive replaced the relay and the temp sensor. When I pull the connector off the temp sensor the fans go on so I know the fans and fuses are fine. For some reason it seems the computer module isnt sending a signal to the relay to turn the fan on. I get the trouble codes P1491(radiator fan relay circuit fault) and P0118(engine coolant temp circuit high input).
I am also having a problem with the air conditioning not working. When I do the self diagnostic test on the A/C the results are that it fails the cool-down test. Why the computer module isn't sending a signal to the relay? Could the A/C problem be causing the cooling fans not to come on?
I have to over rev the engine to get the van to move. After that the tranny seems to work fine. Tranny fluid level is OK, and it does not smell burnt. After I over rev the engine to get moving, the engine revs seem to get back into sync for the speed I'm doing - usually just as the van starts moving, the over-revving is no longer there. Do I need to adjust the bands??
View 2 RepliesWe have a 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan and has a whistling noise when starting up? We are in Wisconsin and its damn cold. It only does it when its cold out. Once the engine warms up it goes away. But my wife is freaking out about it. I am thinking it might be something with the air intake but not sure.
View 3 RepliesI did a tune up on my 3.3L Dodge Grand Caravan only to find the engine is vibrating heavily. This tune up included a new coil pack, plugs and wires.
I did happen to notice a separate thing when looking at the Crankshaft Pulley that it seemed to be wobbling while the engine was running.
I have a 99' GC and just changed out the EGR valve. Now the engine cuts out when you brake or get to a low speed. Idles a little rough also.
View 7 RepliesWorking on a 2001 caravan. Been sitting for about 6 months with no battery installed. decided to work on it. Got a new battery, and when I connected it the alarm went off. I dont have panic button for it so I unhooked the bat.
I think I hooked the bat back up with the thicker gray key in the ignition. I think that is the key with the chip.
The alarm did not sound but the engine will not crank, seems like it it in some security mode blocking start up. I tried cycling the key in the driver door but that did not work.
My check engine light came on today and while driving, the idle (RPM's) were very high. At about 80KMs, it was about 3500 and when I accelerated, the engine would race along with the RPMs. While stopped, idling seems fine. I couldn't get over 80KMs/Hr without the idle going too high.
What it could be? Haven't had time to check codes as it is long weekend and garages are now closed till tuesday.
I had to replace the water pump on my dodge Grand Caravan, which was challenging, but I got it done. But now the engine light is on.... why would that happen? I did take off the filter hose, and unplugged the cord to move the air filter housing, but I plugged it back in when i re-hooked everything up. So now I am nervous that i did something wrong. Why the engine light would come on and stay on? water pump works, put coolant in etc.... no leaks.... so now i just need to figure out the engine light.
View 9 RepliesI was able to quickly diagnose the problem with our 99 T&C LXi w/3.8L.
Problem: No speedometer, wouldn't shift, check engine light came on.
Many posts suggested speed sensor. There are actually 2 of them. An input and an output. Both cost approx $20 each.
By removing the aircleaner box assembly, I had the best (relative word) access to the sensors. A 1" socket w/3" extension did the trick. I understand the access for 2000+ models is different.
Dodge Grand Caravan 2000 3.0L
First, sometimes the engine began shuts off. When the drive up to the traffic lights. When sharply throw gas pedal. When the engine speed is less than 2000. If you release the gas pedal, you will see that the tachometer needle drops below 500 rpm and the engine stalls. This happened happened two or three days all right. And sometimes a day, 3-4 times shuts off. Then ringing under the hood.
Was the flywheel. I remove the transmission and replace the flywheel. More repair parking brake pedal. So it turns analyzed under the panel. I have a new problem. After repair. I driving my Dodge week. And once. After an overnight stay the machine, on morning the engine not start. I checked the spark. The spark is. I removed the fuel hose. and there is no pressure. Just a little bit of fuel.
I decided that this is the fuel pump. I took off his tank, bought a new fuel pump. The pump has not changed. Today I decided to apply voltage to the old pump, it still stands in the tank. It works. Buzzing. Then I decided to check the voltage on the connector. I turned on the ignition. The instrument appears briefly on 12 volts. They are only momentary. Now I think there should always be 12 volts? Fuel tank removed. All hoses are disconnected. Not really the problem in the fuel pump? How to troubleshoot? Where can I get the wiring diagram?
I have a 97 dodge caravan engine 3.0. When I start to accelerate my engine fuse 20amp blows. I does not occur every time but yesterday, it did it 6 times and is now getting looked at. I am just curious on what causes this. I did recently have my spark plugs changed so I am thinking something may be arching.
I do have codes that previously came up for my fuel injectors (P0203, p0206). Another code I have is p1294 idle speed performance.
I have an engine noise on my 2000 Dodge Caravan with the 3.3 engine. It sounds a lot like the grinding of a rotating part. It occurs at start up, momentarily, then goes away. If I drop it in gear and start doing low speed maneuvering in the driveway, it comes back. If I turn on the AC it comes back. In all cases, the noise goes away at around 1200 rpm.
The noise occurs again, when I shut the engine down.The engine performs and runs smooth and normal otherwise. No stalling, stumbling, or bad gas mileage to report.
I can "feel" the noise with my hand, when I put my hand on the ac compressor bracket, or the intake manifold, or the valve cover. I've tried the listening through the stick method, and it seems to be coming from the front area of the engine. But I can't be sure. It is something internal. Let me describe:
I thought it was my AC compressor or clutch going bad. The fact that my AC had stopped working well, and was making jet engine noises at high rpm supported me decide this. I replaced the compressor. The AC works great now, and the jet engine noises went away. But the grinding noise is still there. As described.
I wishfully thought it was the belt tensioner or idler pulley. I replaced both of those. Noise still was there. I pulled off the serpentine belt, and started the engine. It made the noise, very briefly as it started, then went away completely. It made the noise again briefly as I shut the motor off. So it's still there without any of the accessories turning.
The noise is loud and obnoxious at idle when under load. It just can't be good. I've read theories about similar sounding problems, saying they could be loose timing chain, bad oil pump, slapping pistons, crank journals, flexplate/flywheels cracked.
I'm going to try doing an oil system flush, and then I'll change it out with a little thicker oil. See if that makes any difference in the noise. Currently I'm running 5w-30 Mobile 1. I think. I'll let you know if it changes anything. I'm also thinking I want to make a short video of the car idling and making the noise for my video camera. I'll post that on youtube and link it here.
Intermittent problem, occurred 4 times during past 4 weeks, always during wet/rainy/damp weather. Three times when car was sitting overnight, once at work in parking lot after a 12 hour work shift. Each time, the engine started 5 or 6 times then died like someone turned the key off two seconds after the engine started. Then the engine would not crank or turn over, just some clicking near the relay box under the hood. Lights, power windows, etc. all work fine. Battery voltage OK. Jump starting or battery charger makes no difference. Note: With key in "run" position, no display to odometer though all idiot lights light up like normal.
1st time, after about 15-20 minutes, car started. 2nd time, towed to my mechanic (who thought security system lock out) then a second tow to dealer. Dealer found power into power distribution center but none out. Replaced PDC. Car worked fine for 1 week. Same problem twice since repair. First post repair failure I had van re-towed to dealer. Of course, it started for them. Left overnight 2 more nights. Started for them every time. They say it is a "problem with computers" but they don't know exactly what. They also say the Alarm set Dash light is coming on with the rest of the dash lights and that is a no-no. 2nd post repair failure happened this morning. Tried locking door to reset alarm. No change. Locked doors, opened rear hatch. Lights flashed but horn did not sound. When car is working and I do that (open hatch with other doors locked), in addition to lights flashing, horn beeps! I also disconnected the positive battery terminal, waited 10 minutes, reconnected and attempted restart. No change. Car still won't start and odometer display does not work.
Van has 110,000 miles. Otherwise in fantastic shape and runs great (though only gets about 20MPG). Owned van for 2 months and have driven about 7,000 miles. 1st problem I've encountered (other than a very uncomfortable drivers seat - feels like a spring is sprung!)
I have an 02 Dodge Caravan 3.3 L Flex . It had initially stalled and wouldn't start. Check engine light was on. Had it towed to a Cert Mech. He said it needed a "Major" tune-up. I let him do this. It included: New Coilpak, plugs, plug wires, cam-sensor, crank sensor. That's what was on 1st invoice.
It started, but was still running very rough. He then recommend a new PCM. After choking on his estimate, and paying the initial invoice, I decided to let someone else have at it. Mech # 2 installed a "Rebuilt" PCM, New Battery, and a PCV Valve.
It runs good now BUT, ...It has this weird idle Misfire. The only time it happens is at a stop light when at idle. And it doesnt do it all the time. This check engine light is not on... At this point, all I want to do is sell it.I have over 1K in repair costs and still can't get rid of this misfire.