Caravan/Voyager :: 1996 - Electrical Malfunction - Gauges Aren't Working
Mar 29, 2004
My 1996 Caravan gauges do not work at all. I have checked the fuse(s), and thay are all fine.The rest of the van works just fine. The fuel, temp,tach, and speed gauges do not work. The odo does not show up either. What to do?
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I have a 2000 Dodge Caravan. The power lock switches are no longer working (both driver and front passenger). They worked fine the last time I drove the vehicle and both switches stopped working at the same time. The power locks themselves still function with the remote and still lock when speed reaches 25km. Just the actual switches on the doors are not functioning.
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I am currently putting the interior of my car back together after a water issue force me to remove everything and have just put the carpet in. While stopping for the night, I noticed that all the overhead lighting doesn't work, the key fob can't lock the car, I can't open the trunk via the button on the door and even if I close all my doors, the car door open light stays on. However, the dash, vents, radio, gauges and headlights work, the car starts, the headlights and tail lights work, and the gas door button works. The ONLY thing I did was remove a #53 block relay that was wired into the rear fogs, since the way the fogs were wired up, they weren't working.
So I removed the relay and wired the fogs directly to the headlight switch. The wiring of the relay was, one wire going to the #9 pin on the headlight switch, one wire going to the 12V source and the last one going to a ground, nothing else. I didn't touch any other wiring or pull any wiring out. What my car is doing now? I was hoping to have it together to go to MIVE's chilifest tomorrow, but this electrical issue makes me uneasy about driving my car over an hour from home without a trusty tow vehicle to rescue me if it goes south.
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1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 180K 3.3L
I read other threads about the connections under the hood, both sides, which I unplugged and replugged. I also pulled the IOD fuse for a little bit. Then I removed the cluster and looked it over. Looked good to me.
Got code P1698 for manufacturers assembly control or something to that effect. Thought I checked all the usual culprits. The dash lights work fine, so does everything else. The dash gauges just don't work. This is something that has been an intermittent problem with the dash gauges going out periodically when hitting a bump. It leads me to believe a connection. But I checked all those.
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So this is my wifes vehicle so I don't always get the whole story . I have seen this once or twice over the years. We have the 2008 T&C Touring 4.3L. Bought it brand new. Now we're up to 80k miles.
The problem is that sometimes after starting the van all off the accessories including lights gauges everything are completely dead. If I turn the van off and stay it again it will be fine. I'm thinking the electrical side of the ignition switch but its so random.
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I'm having trouble with my 96' 3.0L, its kind of crazy its intermittent and while driving the engines surges one or twice and then dies... when I try to crank it up again cranks but don't starts if I try again it wont even crank ( no starter winding up ) what I noticed is that is I'm driving when it dies my check engine light disappears for a while and if I connect my OBD 2 reader does not link up with the ECU if I wait a while and I crank it up again its starts and the while cranking up I can hear a bang noise from the engine compartment drives side and then after a couple of minutes dies again...
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I have a 2005 Grand caravan with a 3.3L. Over the summer I was having issues with the transmission.Got the codes reaf, P0700 and P1726( I think). After this had an input speed sensor replaced and the TCM. The van worked for about 3 months, but now is acting up again. This time I got codes P0700 and P0704. Was told it was a clutch switch malfunction. Can't seem to find any details about this code.
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First, about a month ago the gas gauge started to malfunction. The low fuel light will come on and the gauge will show low even though it has nearly half a tank left. When will fill it the gauge only goes to 7/8 full.
Second, today is started stalling when I press down on the pedal. If I wait a few minutes it will restart. Has stalled twice but then will run fine.
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I have a 96 voyager, it has been a great car for the last 10 years I've had it. My brake pedal goes down to the floor, it gives brake but I think barely and my brake light comes on. I have Bled it twice and changed the master cylinder , neither worked, I'm perplexed, my mechanic thinks it is the abs.
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1996 Plymouth Voyager ... My Van has about 90,000 miles and runs good. The heat worked great last year but is just blowing cold air out this year. I do not know where to start looking for the problem. I do not have a over-heating problem and it blows air out just as strong as before this problem. I had to replace the battery last month, could that have anything to do with this problem?
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The first is a trans control system malfunction and the 2nd code(0740) is tcc circuit malfunction- but what exactly do these codes mean? and the o2 sensor needs to be replaced, it said bank 1 sensor 1- does that mean the one BEFORE the catalytic converter?
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My daughter has a 1996 Grand Voyager that she would like to sell. However, right now when you drive it the front end shakes horribly like the wheels are coming off. I mean the whole dash is shaking. Scary! In addition, I swear I've seen the front wheels appear to wobble when she's driving it. Ive changed the wheel bearing on the passenger side and was astonished to find that it made no difference. I was wondering about the half shafts and CV joints and such. How can I tell if these are bad? I've grabbed them and tried to move them and they don't move.
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Issue on grand caravan 1996 happen, while driving all one time I hearing a clicking noise inside dashboard and abs+airbag and weather control, they stopped to work all in one shot .
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So here I am with my 1996 Dodge grand caravan that I purchased new in 1995 for a whopping 30k. Yeah hind site is 20/20 skip forward to mile 102k transmission fails completely. Had to have it towed in to shop, rebuilt tranny put in... skip ahead another 4 years to mile 173k and transmission fails again. Again on a tow truck to the shop and ANOTHER tranny rebuild. So now I am at mile 182k and transmission is making a horrible shudder and I have moved across the country away from original shop that did last trans repair (who says they only warranty if I come back to them) and I am possibly looking at another repair or replacement. What is the deal with these vans?
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Last week, my van started chugging and the keydance code indicated random misfire. I changed the front spark plugs and wires and it ran a little better but still showed the error. Took it to my trusted mechanic and he changed the back 3 wires and plugs and the coil pack. Code now showed misfire on one of the back cylinders(I forgot which one). 2 Mechanics both confirmed good spark and gas at the cylinder. He is saying that there is a mechanical problem in the cylinder and the fix would be over $1k.
The van has over 250k on it so it's not worth the engine work. I asked about a compression test and was told that it's almost impossible to test the rear cylinders without doing a ton of work, and that they are 95% sure that it is a mechanical problem with the cylinder. I've known the mechanic for over 20 years and he is an honest guy, and knows that I won't do the expensive repair, so he's not trying to rip me off.
I don't have the facilities or knowledge to do the work, so it looks like I'm screwed. Is there anything else that I should be doing before I write the van off? It does run, but very rough at low speed, and no power at high speed, and mech says that the unburned gas will eventually screw things up.
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I Have a '83 Datsun 280zx and most of the electrical system doesn't work! I've checked the fuse link, ignition switch, fuse panel.
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All the electrical components that are controlled by the ignition key/switch (radio, power windows, wipers, AC/fan) sometimes don't work when I turn the van on. However, when the key is turned back into accessories position, everything works - never a problem then. I had the ignition switch replaced a few months ago and that seemed to work (didn't occur as often) but now it's back to the way it was before. Just about every time I need the wipers (when it rains), they don't work nor do any of the other things I mentioned previously.
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I have a 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE. It has 122000 mi. I just bought it a few months ago and have came across a few minor problems and all have been easy DIY projects (couple of blown fuses, wiper replacement etc..) Recently, I noticed the AC stopped working (it was only tested once when I bought it, but have not used it since)
Where to begin the diagnosis. Is there a fuse connected to the functioning of the AC? I really don't know a whole lot about cars, but I am pretty good at fixing things in general.
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I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan with a heater blower that doesn't seem to be working. Whether the heater knob is on low or high, it does nothing, but you can feel a little heat coming out, though. I was told it may be a resistor behind the glove box. I've already checked the fuse, and it seems OK. What do I do?
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Turn wipers on and motor growls but wipers do not move, checked 30 amp fuse and it is good, all other functions of the multifunction switch are good.
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The problem I am having with my 2009 Grand Caravan SE is the drivers door controls stopped working. I cant use the power windows locks or door locks and the background light is off also, the front passenger side and middle row locks etc work. On the driver door the only things that work are the 2 back vent windows.
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