Caravan/Voyager :: 1996 Dodge 3.8 V6 Transmission Making Horrible Shudder
Sep 19, 2013
So here I am with my 1996 Dodge grand caravan that I purchased new in 1995 for a whopping 30k. Yeah hind site is 20/20 skip forward to mile 102k transmission fails completely. Had to have it towed in to shop, rebuilt tranny put in... skip ahead another 4 years to mile 173k and transmission fails again. Again on a tow truck to the shop and ANOTHER tranny rebuild. So now I am at mile 182k and transmission is making a horrible shudder and I have moved across the country away from original shop that did last trans repair (who says they only warranty if I come back to them) and I am possibly looking at another repair or replacement. What is the deal with these vans?
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I am experiencing a very frustrating shift anomaly. 2003 T and C . Under certain throttle conditions ( usually light ) from a dead start I am feeling a bump/violent shudder between the 1-2 transmission shift. If I let off the gas, I can get the shudder to quit and then by continuing to accelerate , successfully complete the 1-2 shift.
Does not happen all the time and never under straight ahead med-hard acceleration. By nature , happens most of the time under light acceleration when turning a corner from a dead stop. Sort of feels like a loss of traction or something funky happening with the torque convertor. Have serviced the trans with new fluid and filter, new TPS, new plugs, wires, and coil pack.
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2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT 4.0L 47K miles. I am having a bad issue with the brakes.
I have had to replace the front brake pads and rotors 3 times and going on the 4th time IN LESS THAN 47K MILES. The brakes seem to work fine in city driving where the streets are flat. The problem is when driving on any kind of a downhill grade. If you try to brake on a downhill slope the brakes shudder so bad that you cannot only feel the steering wheel shake, you can SEE it shake.
The Dealerships say the problem is warped rotors and everything is fine after installing a new set or turning the old set. After the 2nd set of "OEM" rotors supplied by the dealerships (two different Dealerships to be exact), I got fed up and installed top of the line NAPA Ceramic pads and Rotors, which do the exact same thing after less than a year/7k miles. This van is not a commercial vehicle, and is not overloaded or used for towing.
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I'm having trouble with my 96' 3.0L, its kind of crazy its intermittent and while driving the engines surges one or twice and then dies... when I try to crank it up again cranks but don't starts if I try again it wont even crank ( no starter winding up ) what I noticed is that is I'm driving when it dies my check engine light disappears for a while and if I connect my OBD 2 reader does not link up with the ECU if I wait a while and I crank it up again its starts and the while cranking up I can hear a bang noise from the engine compartment drives side and then after a couple of minutes dies again...
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I've been fighting with these vehicle for months, and I've only been able to narrow down the list of possible issues. Tried replacing the ignition switch, battery terminals and cables, starter, and even a PCM since according to the dealership it was bad. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and they're all ok.
I'm getting fuel and spark, but no crank from the starter. The voltage going to the hot post on the starter is 12.7, but the voltage from the igniton wire is only reading around .5-.6, fluctuating a bit. Before I spend the money on taking it to a mechanic I wanted to know what your opinions were on what the next step is. I know a bit about electrical systems in cars but I'm no expert.
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I have a 96 voyager, it has been a great car for the last 10 years I've had it. My brake pedal goes down to the floor, it gives brake but I think barely and my brake light comes on. I have Bled it twice and changed the master cylinder , neither worked, I'm perplexed, my mechanic thinks it is the abs.
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1996 Plymouth Voyager ... My Van has about 90,000 miles and runs good. The heat worked great last year but is just blowing cold air out this year. I do not know where to start looking for the problem. I do not have a over-heating problem and it blows air out just as strong as before this problem. I had to replace the battery last month, could that have anything to do with this problem?
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I'm about to put a new tailgate on a 98 Dodge Caravan. I got hit in the back and I bought a new back door at the junk yard. It looks pretty easy, but I thought I would touch base here and there are a couple of potentially tricky parts...
Does that wire bundle have a block somewhere that you can plug, or am I going to be splicing them one by one? (I don't have power locks. I have windshield wiper, back door inside light, license plate light, heat wires in the glass.) The other tricky part..changing the lock.
I think that's all.. the bolts and star screws look pretty straightforward. I got it used with 48k miles a couple years ago and I only have 75k now. It was a government car.
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I was riding down the interstate this morning and had my cruise control set at 70mph. all of a sudden the cruise just turn off. I went to hit the gas pedal and there was nothing. No check engine light or anything, no spit, no sputter. I pulled off the side of the interstate and attempted to start the van. the engine turns over fine, but no start. all lights, radio work fine. car has fuel. it did not run hot.
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I have a 2005 dodge caravan and today after taking my kids kids to school, I noticed white smoke coming from the hood of the engine. I managed to get home and check it out. With further inspection, smelled like some type of fluid is burning off I can't tell if it's oil or anti freeze. There seems to be some type of condensation in the inside of my van on the passenger windshield. I looked to check to see any leaks inside on the floor mat and underneath the van itself and nothing. What seems to be the issue?
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I have a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan and while I was driving it stopped on me. It will turn on but once you put it in gear it will turn off and wont turn back on. I have replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump.
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My daughter has a 1996 Grand Voyager that she would like to sell. However, right now when you drive it the front end shakes horribly like the wheels are coming off. I mean the whole dash is shaking. Scary! In addition, I swear I've seen the front wheels appear to wobble when she's driving it. Ive changed the wheel bearing on the passenger side and was astonished to find that it made no difference. I was wondering about the half shafts and CV joints and such. How can I tell if these are bad? I've grabbed them and tried to move them and they don't move.
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I have a 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with 58000 miles. The rear blower won't run with either the front controls or rear controls. I have checked the fuses and they looked ok.
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I did a tune up on my 3.3L Dodge Grand Caravan only to find the engine is vibrating heavily. This tune up included a new coil pack, plugs and wires.
I did happen to notice a separate thing when looking at the Crankshaft Pulley that it seemed to be wobbling while the engine was running.
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I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan, My AC unit works great. With the heater, it will work for 2-3 minutes, at which point it starts to blow cool air. I can leave it running, but it never gets warm again, if I turn the fan off for 3-5 minutes, when I turn it back on, I get a good amount of heat that goes for about 2-3 minutes before blowing cold air again.
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I'm having electrical issues in my 2006 Dodge Caravan. It started with the radio not working (even though the lights around the nobs and buttons light up) and the lock button doesn't work until the van is started. Now, the windshield wiper won't turn off, even after the van has been turned off.
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Issue on grand caravan 1996 happen, while driving all one time I hearing a clicking noise inside dashboard and abs+airbag and weather control, they stopped to work all in one shot .
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Last week, my van started chugging and the keydance code indicated random misfire. I changed the front spark plugs and wires and it ran a little better but still showed the error. Took it to my trusted mechanic and he changed the back 3 wires and plugs and the coil pack. Code now showed misfire on one of the back cylinders(I forgot which one). 2 Mechanics both confirmed good spark and gas at the cylinder. He is saying that there is a mechanical problem in the cylinder and the fix would be over $1k.
The van has over 250k on it so it's not worth the engine work. I asked about a compression test and was told that it's almost impossible to test the rear cylinders without doing a ton of work, and that they are 95% sure that it is a mechanical problem with the cylinder. I've known the mechanic for over 20 years and he is an honest guy, and knows that I won't do the expensive repair, so he's not trying to rip me off.
I don't have the facilities or knowledge to do the work, so it looks like I'm screwed. Is there anything else that I should be doing before I write the van off? It does run, but very rough at low speed, and no power at high speed, and mech says that the unburned gas will eventually screw things up.
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My 1996 Caravan gauges do not work at all. I have checked the fuse(s), and thay are all fine.The rest of the van works just fine. The fuel, temp,tach, and speed gauges do not work. The odo does not show up either. What to do?
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I have an 02' Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L V6 (not flex fuel) .I have replaced the battery, alternator, sparkplugs/wires, fuel pump, fuel filter. All over time and now when i try to start the van it turns over strong sometimes starting then stalls out immediately. When I try to crank it sounds like metal on metal. Check engine light stays on,but i dont have an OBD reader.
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Anti-theft alarm was triggered inadvertently and now won't allow vehicle to start. When ignition is turned there is just a click...does not turn over. Is there a reset???
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