Caravan/Voyager :: 1994 Vehicle Stops / Sputters To No Power - Could Be Vapor Lock?
Jun 22, 2007
I have a rather peculiar problem with My 1994 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L. This has happened multiple times spread out over the last 10 years. Every couple of years after a rather long drive, then a stop, it spits, sputters, has very little to no power, and will ultimately die. It will usually start right back up, idle fine, but when you shift into gear, it acts up as described. If you let it set for about 15-20 minutes, it will usually start up and run fine without the symptoms as described.
The First time it happened I was lucky enough to be within a mile of the dealer, who diagnosed a bad fuel pump before it was ever on the lift. He showed me what he said was the culprit, which was a fuel filter that was full of black particles and soot. He replaced both the pump and filter and it ran fine for a couple of years and it started doing the same thing. Another new fuel pump and filter and we're running again (all under warranty).
About three years ago it did it again and this time we went to a different dealer and since we were no longer under warranty, we wanted to know what was actually going wrong. Nothing was ever found, no codes, pressure was good, everything looked fine. No problems until today when it started again, no dash or check engine lights, it just wouldn't run. We let it sit for 20-30 minutes and started it right up and drove it home without incident.
Are these vehicles known for vapor locking? It sure acts like that is what it was doing. The temp wasn't that hot and was ruled out as a factor.
I am planning to put a new fuel filter in it?
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I have a 2002 VW Eurovan, 2.8L V6 Winnebago Vista 21B, 130k miles, my check engine light is on but having a hard time trying to figure out what's causing it and what direction to head without spending a fortune. It started while traveling across country two years ago, several days into the trip, after driving several hours at freeway speeds on a cool rainy day, I stopped for gas and when I turned it back on it sputtered and coughed and ran REALLY rough, I slowly moved the vehicle out of the way, about 50 ft, turned it off and when I turned it back on it was fine, except the check engine light came on. I took it into VW and they ran the test... the codes were: P0118 Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 3 Cylinder Misfires P0305, P0300, P0303 P1151 Bank 1, mixture adaptation, range 1, Lean limit not reached, static
They said it wasn't going to destroy the vehicle, to continue on my trip and I'd need to do some sleuthing to find the culprit. The light came on and off throughout the trip but didn't have the sputtering again ( although I didn't push it as hard when driving it either, kept it around 65 - 70).Got back to Montana and a local shop replaced the ignition coil. That didn't fix the check engine light, which is on continuously now (that's been 2 years with mild use of about 8k miles).
Until now, it hasn't sputtered again so I didn't really worry about it, but it happened in Oregon last week when it was again cool and rainy, I'd been driving hwy speeds for a few hours, I stopped for gas and when I restarted it sputtered, coughed and rumbled like it did 2 years ago. I turned it off for 30 secs, restarted and it was fine.In talking this over with a variety of folk, we're thinking the issue could be a fuel filter, fuel pump, coolant sensor or catalytic converter sensor... I have a fuel pressure test scheduled in a couple of weeks.
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I have changed the oil, all filters, spark plugs and wires but the problem is still there. At start up it vibrates and sputters, gets worse at take off, lessens at 55mph but if i floor the gas it stops. Takes a lot more power to reach speeds. As much as 3000 rpm to get to 45 and almost 4000 rpm to get to 55mph. How i can fix this?
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I have a 2000 Dodge Caravan. The power lock switches are no longer working (both driver and front passenger). They worked fine the last time I drove the vehicle and both switches stopped working at the same time. The power locks themselves still function with the remote and still lock when speed reaches 25km. Just the actual switches on the doors are not functioning.
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I have a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan and while I was driving it stopped on me. It will turn on but once you put it in gear it will turn off and wont turn back on. I have replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump.
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I have to over rev the engine to get the van to move. After that the tranny seems to work fine. Tranny fluid level is OK, and it does not smell burnt. After I over rev the engine to get moving, the engine revs seem to get back into sync for the speed I'm doing - usually just as the van starts moving, the over-revving is no longer there. Do I need to adjust the bands??
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Wife telling the brakes went out but fluid is leaking under center of vehicle when brake is pressed. Is this just a rear brake line issue?
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I recently bought a used 1994 Plymouth Grand Voyager. The other day I went to start the van, and nothing happened- it clicked, and all the lights and horn were functioning, but it wouldn't turn over. I got under the car and found that the starter was hot, so I went to the auto parts store and bought a new starter. I put it in, and drove it home, and all was well. The next day I got on the highway and discovered that the van would not get out of limp mode- it wouldn't shift into a higher gear and the RPMs were building higher. I got off and took side streets home.
I disconnected the battery for a good while and re-connected it, and things were fine for a short while, but it developed the problem again.
I intend on checking the relays under the hood, checking electrical connections, and getting a trans fluid change soon. Is replacing the starter at all related to the limp mode issue?
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Service Engine light came on couple days later turned off, came back on today & vehicle stopped shifting into 3rd. Later this evening was driving it and power steering went out, ABS light came on, temp gauge jumping from hot then cold. When Service Engine light came on originally took to autozone. these are the codes given:
P0700
P1776
P0420
I have read problem could be input or output sensor which are $17 bucks each. Going to try those...
Mileage is 145,000
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Someone put sugar in my gas tank so I had it worked on at the Dodge place they replaced my fuel pump..fuel filter cleaned the tank..flushed the lines cleaned my injectors and replaced the plugs..I went to pick it up I barely made it a mile down the road I had no power and a lady flagged me down to tell me to pull over because I had sparks coming from the bottom of my van I looked under the van and the catalytic converter was red like hit coals the Dodge place is telling me its my flex plate? I think they are misdiagnosing the issue because before the sugar issue I had no problems with my van?
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I have 1990 dodge caravan v6, i checked to see if i got power to the fuel pump and there no power going
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When it is off, the power locks keep locking every 30 seconds!
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This has happened twice now. I went to turn a tight corner and the power steering just went out. A moment or so later, it came back. Any conjecture?
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I had a VERY bad leak, to the point where I would fill it, an hour later it all leaked out. I had a mechanic work on it, and he rebuilt the PS pump, BUT the pulley was cracked, they DON'T make that size anymore. He put a bigger one on, only to find out, it was rubbing on my brake lines so I couldn't drive it! SO I had another grease monkey work on it, went through a few new pulley's FINALLY found one! BUT went through 4 Serpentine belts!!
After 3 months with NO VEHICLE, we finally got it all back together. BUT now it is not all lining up we couldn't tell until we had the belt on. it is about a 1/4 of an inch to much to the right.
I'm thinking maybe washers or spacers would work?
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My 2004 Caravan lost power to windshield washer motor and headlights, after checking under fuse box, I swapped over the relay marked headlights washer , still nothing. I disconnected the power module at the front of the fuse box by removing four torx head screws. Removed it by rocking it a it out towards the front of the van. I cleaned the terminals and replaced it. Seems to have solved the problem .
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I keep getting this code even after fixing hoses with leaks. I am guilty of over filling my gas tank all the time can this have damaged the vapor canister on my 2001 dodge caravan....
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Son was unable to fill his car's gas tank, 2002 Elantra (but happens to all cars sometimes).
The vapor lock on the pump kept shutting the gas flow off.
This was caused by the tanks vapor exhaust being unable to exit while filling, so the only place to go was back up through the gas fill hole.
The charcoal filter had sprung a leak so the zillions of tiny little charcoal pellets pour from the filter into the rubber hose clogging it.
The Filter is $150 at Hyundai. Not available at AutoZone or OReilys.
Very simple to replace a couple bolts a few hose clamps.
Strange problem, thats no one at work had encoutnered before. A few Hyundai mechanics had heard of it and worked it before.
Also could be Purge Valve or Vent Valve solenoids...search EAP system too if your having this issue of not being able to fill your tank with gas, without 500000 vapor locks shutting the pump off!
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Recently, my 1988 Isuzu Trooper began dying at high elevations (above 7,500 feet). I have had the car for ~7years and have never had this problem. That is, in the past, i've been able to drive it up to 9,300 feet with no problem. Could this be vapor lock? If so, why would vapor lock all of sudden start happening? If not vapor lock, what could it be?
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My Miata stalls out on the highway but not on residential streets. If I open the gas tank ,it starts up again. This has happened with a full tank, 1/2 tank and 1/4 tank. How can I fix this?
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2004 BMW 530i : 73k miles : Our car sputtered for a few months. Basically, at low speeds (either in traffic OR stopped at a traffic light) car would sputter and completely STOP. I've to put it back in "PARK" and restart. Just last week it that several times while coming back from work and then, eventually completely STOPPED to restart. It will try to crank up and but would not. After giving it 20minutes break - when I tried, it restarted again. Not sure what's going on or what I should look at.
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I have a 98 1.8t TIP and this problem just started happening when I slow down to stop the rpm's drop and it almost dies but it catches it self and the needle bounces a few times and it is fine after that.
Also when I start the car the rpms bounce like three or four times but it again, catches itself and its fine after that... until i want to come to a stop again.. I live in the city and its a lot of stop and go.
Also when i slow down it feels like my car slams into first gear. it shift perfectly every other time up and down, only when it goes into first it hits hard and scares me cause I don't want anything to go wrong.
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