Caravan/Voyager :: 08 T&C Touring 4.3L - Accessories Including Gauges Dead After Starting
Dec 13, 2013
So this is my wifes vehicle so I don't always get the whole story . I have seen this once or twice over the years. We have the 2008 T&C Touring 4.3L. Bought it brand new. Now we're up to 80k miles.
The problem is that sometimes after starting the van all off the accessories including lights gauges everything are completely dead. If I turn the van off and stay it again it will be fine. I'm thinking the electrical side of the ignition switch but its so random.
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My 1996 Caravan gauges do not work at all. I have checked the fuse(s), and thay are all fine.The rest of the van works just fine. The fuel, temp,tach, and speed gauges do not work. The odo does not show up either. What to do?
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I've tried putting new batteries in my mini van and the battery goes dead after a day or 2. I've had it to the dealer before and they said it's a bad battery. which clearly it's not. I had a meter between the grounds on the battery and pulled all fuses under the hood and no change. I'm a quadriplegic and it's a nightmare when I go out with my aid to go to a doctors appointment and my van is dead. I don't have any money for the dealer again. I don't think the chrysler dealer even looked at it and took advantage of my situation. Its a 2003 Town country with only 29,000 miles. could it be the alternator drawing power when the car is off?
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My problem is similar to that of coyote54 back in 05. I have a 2001 Grand Caravan Sport. Instrument Cluster is dead, Information lights on top of dash are dead, Turn signals and Hazard lamps are not working. Found Hazard Lamp fuse to be blown. Replaced fuse and blows immediately indicating a short. Haynes describes a Turn Signal/Hazard Lamp and Daytime Running Light Module located on the junction block but there is no such animal that I can find. One of the responses to coyote54 described a Hazard relay located within the steering column........again, I do not see anything on the column that resembles a relay. Is there a hazard flasher/relay on the 2001 GC.
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I have a 2003 Chrysler Town and Country and my problem started with no reverse after starting car. If I pushed it back and drove forward 10 or 15 feet then reverse would work fine and shift properly. As long as I could drive forward first then reverse would work. This was like this for a few days then the vehicle wouldn't move at all. There wasn't any error codes. The fluid is full and clean.
When the van was about a year old I took it to the dealer with harsh shifting and they said there was a broken wire to the trans, I am thinking this is when they came out with the 3 wire slice people where talking about.
I wasn't needing the van so it has been sitting now for almost a year. Now I want to get it working again...
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1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 180K 3.3L
I read other threads about the connections under the hood, both sides, which I unplugged and replugged. I also pulled the IOD fuse for a little bit. Then I removed the cluster and looked it over. Looked good to me.
Got code P1698 for manufacturers assembly control or something to that effect. Thought I checked all the usual culprits. The dash lights work fine, so does everything else. The dash gauges just don't work. This is something that has been an intermittent problem with the dash gauges going out periodically when hitting a bump. It leads me to believe a connection. But I checked all those.
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I have an 02' Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L V6 (not flex fuel) .I have replaced the battery, alternator, sparkplugs/wires, fuel pump, fuel filter. All over time and now when i try to start the van it turns over strong sometimes starting then stalls out immediately. When I try to crank it sounds like metal on metal. Check engine light stays on,but i dont have an OBD reader.
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I have a 95 Jeep Cherokee that has a strange electrical problem. When I first turn the car on after it has been sitting for several hours, the following accessories do not work:- Air conditioner/Ventilation- Wipers- Cigarette lighter
There are two really odd things going on here: The first is that the radio will not work if any of the above three things are turned on, but it WILL work if they are all turned off. For example, with the wipers and AC off, and cell charger unplugged from the lighter, the radio will turn on. As soon as I plug the charger in, or turn on the wipers or AC, the radio goes off. None of these accessories actually turn on, but simply being putting them in the "on" position kills the radio until they are switched off.
The second weird thing is that after a few minutes of driving, everything will return to working as normal - radio, AC, lighter, etc. They continue to work until the next time the car has been sitting for several hours, at which point the same problem repeats.
FYI, I recently replaced the alternator to address an unrelated issue, but it did not make a difference with this one.
I searched the car talk forums for similar issues, but did not have any luck - while it does look like there are some other Chrysler vehicles that have electrical problems, I couldn't find anything dealing with an intermittent problem.
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2010 Prius with 85k miles. Went to start car and here is what I get. All lights on dash come on including emergency icons. When I depress brake to shift into gear lights on dash go dim but not out. Car does not go into gear and neither does it show it going into gear on display. Heater was on and I tried to shut off the fan and again no response. Very difficult to get it to shut off. Pushed off 3 or 4 times and it finally responded. Been cold here in the teens and car has not been used for 3 or 4 days. Everything has been fine up to this point. No problems with anything.
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I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan, modified for use for someone in a wheelchair. On two occasions now I have been driving and have lost ALL power, including all dashboard lights, signals, power steering and power brakes. Luckily both times I was able to pull over without much problem (aside from problems steering and having to mash really hard on the brakes). Turned off the motor, restarted, and everything seemed fine. The first time this happened I took it to my mechanic who said he was unable to duplicate the problem. The second time this happened (yesterday) was after a severe rainstorm. I can't remember what the weather was like the first time it happened.
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I'm a rideshare driver who drives about 1000 miles/week. I currently have a Gen 2 which I love, but I'm looking to upgrade to a Gen 4 pretty soon.
-Does the Gen 4 have the same kind of under-trunk storage area in the hatch/cargo area? This is important for me on the Gen 2 because it allows me to carry equipment while having an empty hatch space for passengers luggage. Does it depend on if you have a spare tire or not?
-Real-world MPG in extended city driving with A/C on?
-Where are the 12v outlets? And extend one into the hatch area?
-Is there a notable difference in comfort for touring vs non touring models?
-Does the driver's seat with lumbar support make a significant difference in comfort?
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We just purchased a 2012 Grand Caravan and was wondering where to get a key and program it. I know the key will be an arm and a leg if i get it from the dealer. Is there a tutorial that tells how to program it as well?
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2006 Caravan. Heat comes and goes every minute or so. Also noticed the temp gauge goes from normal operating range to cold and back again frequently. Hasn't overheated. Does that sound like a thermostat problem?
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On my 2005 3.3L Grand Caravan the ABS light keeping coming on. I inspected the sensors for the front and used my compressor to give them a quick puff of air to get rid of dust. The light went off for about 5 days. Now it is back on.
How does one read ABS codes? If I knew for sure that the problem is a speed sensor and which one I could clean or replace the faulty sensor.
If I clean to sensor are there any special precautions I need to take? As far as I could see they didn't look very dirty.
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What am i missing i have a terrible clunk in the front end when i hit bumps. I thought it was the struts and mounting plates so they are new . no change Stabilizer links were tight but i replaced them as well. Everything else seems tight but the noise has not changed with any of the above mentioned repairs.
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I'm having trouble with my 96' 3.0L, its kind of crazy its intermittent and while driving the engines surges one or twice and then dies... when I try to crank it up again cranks but don't starts if I try again it wont even crank ( no starter winding up ) what I noticed is that is I'm driving when it dies my check engine light disappears for a while and if I connect my OBD 2 reader does not link up with the ECU if I wait a while and I crank it up again its starts and the while cranking up I can hear a bang noise from the engine compartment drives side and then after a couple of minutes dies again...
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I have a 2006 Grand Caravan 3.8 that just stalled at a set of lights yesterday and have had it towed back to the shop here. I turns over and starts briefly then will die and then just turn over strongly. I cleaned the throttle body and IAC but this did not work. I connected fuel pressure tester and have no pressure when turn key on or turn it over.
The fuse and relay check out ok, so I'm thinking bad or clogged fuel pump.
I have a 2004 Caravan out back that I have used for other small parts to interchange before and was wondering whether or not the fuel pumps between these two are compatible. Be a lot of work to pull the one off the one in the yard, only to find out its not going to fit.
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142k, having some problems lately, the van won't accelerate now and again, moreso when the engine isn't up to temp, but lately it's gotten more and more prevalent. I have done some recent and needed maintenance in hopes of fixing the issue, but to no avail so far. I've replaced the plugs and wires, air and fuel filters, and both upper and lower O2 sensors (first replaced the upper with a Bosch, almost immediately had problems with P0134 code, so instead went with a Denso, hasn't come back yet). I checked fuel pressure, 60 psi sitting in the shop, the cat doesn't seem to be clogged, and it idles fine all day long.
Problem resembles running out of fuel, or more maybe like I'm letting off the gas, but my cheap scanner says the TPS is working fine, and I was watching the TPS percentage as I was driving it was reading normally. As I'm accelerating slowly from a stop, it'll start to cut out around 30 mph, but speed doesn't seem to matter, if I accelerate sharply it just bogs and slows down, if it does shift up a gear, the rpms will jump to about 5k, then slowly decrease even if I've got my foot on the floor. I keep coming back to the fuel pump, but I don't have a long enough hose to have it connected while test driving. Considering removing the hood so I can prop the gauge up so I can see it while driving. I am getting a P0132 code now, but I'm more concerned with the accelerating issue.
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Intermittently the ABS Light is coming on. 84,000 miles.
Brakes have been changed once, 10,000 miles ago.
Minor clunk sound when light is on.
Light goes off after van has set, brakes work fine at that point.
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I've been fighting with these vehicle for months, and I've only been able to narrow down the list of possible issues. Tried replacing the ignition switch, battery terminals and cables, starter, and even a PCM since according to the dealership it was bad. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and they're all ok.
I'm getting fuel and spark, but no crank from the starter. The voltage going to the hot post on the starter is 12.7, but the voltage from the igniton wire is only reading around .5-.6, fluctuating a bit. Before I spend the money on taking it to a mechanic I wanted to know what your opinions were on what the next step is. I know a bit about electrical systems in cars but I'm no expert.
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Someone put sugar in my gas tank so I had it worked on at the Dodge place they replaced my fuel pump..fuel filter cleaned the tank..flushed the lines cleaned my injectors and replaced the plugs..I went to pick it up I barely made it a mile down the road I had no power and a lady flagged me down to tell me to pull over because I had sparks coming from the bottom of my van I looked under the van and the catalytic converter was red like hit coals the Dodge place is telling me its my flex plate? I think they are misdiagnosing the issue because before the sugar issue I had no problems with my van?
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