Car Shaking While Releasing The Clutch When In First Gear
Oct 1, 2015
I've A Problem With My Car Nissan Tiida 2007
When In First Gear While Releasing The Clutch The Car Shakes
And If I Didn't Release It Fast The Engine Will Stall
I've A Problem With My Car Nissan Tiida 2007
When In First Gear While Releasing The Clutch The Car Shakes
And If I Didn't Release It Fast The Engine Will Stall
I just rolled over to 90,000 miles on my 2002 Accord. Its running beautifully, however every so often the car "rumbles" or "shudders" when I'm releasing the clutch after I shift into second gear, or sometimes it'll do it when I'm facing up a hill pulling into first gear letting out the clutch. Its almost as if the clutch rapidly grabs then slips a bunch of times, similar to if it was warped. It doesn't completely slip at all to my knowledge. The car was bought new by my family and has been driven pretty carefully since (although 2 people have learned to drive stick on it, and my dad isn't the most "gentle" driver in the universe). I know that Clutch rebuilding and replacing is a big expensive job and its something I wouldn't even consider doing myself. So, when is it time to really seriously consider dropping down the serious cash to get the clutch rebuilt? To be honest, the shuddering is really annoying (it doesn't happen all the time though) but its something I could live with for a bit.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 ford f150 4x4 xlt and it seems to be shaking violently in first gear when I try to release the clutch slowly. The person i bought it from said he had a new clutch put in this year So i don't think its the clutch. What could be the cause of it before I take it in to be checked.
View 2 RepliesMy 2006 Elantra (54,000 miles) shifts really, really hard when it's not cold and passes through the 35 mph range -- hard enough to make you glad you've got your seatbelt on. I've taken it to my regular mechanic and now it's in an automatic transmission shop.
My mechanic changed the fluid (twice), and took it through a "learning sequence". The fluid didn't look that bad and he reported that there were no codes to work with. He thinks I'm going to have to get a new transmission.
The AT shop has confirmed that there are no codes to work with and that the problem begins at 143 degrees. They tell me that the transmission is shifting into a higher gear without releasing the lower gear. They tried replacing a couple of solenoids, but that yielded no change in behavior. Now, they're telling me they "think" I need a new computer. I'm just afraid the trial & error approach is going to cost me a boat-load.
I've been having some issues with my car lately, 2012 Accent 1.6 manual transmission 36,000km aprox. The RPM climbs after I release the clutch, for example I'm going from 1st gear to 2nd, or 2nd to 3rd or any change of gears around 2,500rpm and when I release the clutch the RPM climbs to 2,800 or so and stays like that a couple of seconds, today the RPM climbed from 2,500 to 3,000-3,200 and stayed like that again for a couple of seconds.
View 5 RepliesI have done some research, but have found no one with the same noise as I am having. My clutch is creaking when pushing in and releasing the clutch. It does not sound like it is coming from the pedal. I have had a new clutch and transmission replace within the past 18 months. Someone mentioned the creak could be "dust on the slave cylinder." What this could be? Should I be worried? It shifts perfectly find and rides fine.
View 3 RepliesMy R has been giving me some trouble lately. First I had some issues, I thought were clutch related.
-A loud clunk when releasing clutch pedal (only when engine running) and sometimes when depressing it too.
-Randomly changing clutch biting point when driving hard. So e.g. when revving through 1st and 2nd gear the clutch would bite much lower than usual. (This was so weird.)
-Whistling sound when changing from 1st to 2nd gear.
Replaced the clutch, flywheel, pressure plate and the TOB and bled the system several times. Also new solid DLI motor mounts and new oem dogbone mount.
There was some side-to-side play on input shaft that I was told is not a big deal. Also this gearbox has always been much louder than other cars Ive driven.
Now that weird changing clutch biting point is gone but other issues are still there. And now, because of the lightweight smf and the motor mounts the gears shatter and whine so much more on low revs and during engine braking. I know 02m s tend to do that but its so loud I am a bit worried.
On releasing the clutch pedal, a creaking noise can be heard, which:
- sounds and feels like a rusty spring being unloaded
- occurs for the entire range of pedal travel, but worse near the bottom
- is louder outside the car than inside
- happens not only when driving, but also when stationary with the engine off
I don't think anything is wrong with the clutch itself, or any bearings, or major components... It just feels like something needs to be lubed. I've lubed the spring above the pedal inside the car, with no real effect.
The clutch in my ac compressor is not releasing causing it stay on all the time and not cycle and get hot and freeze up the system. Also pulley seems to be angled like it's not sitting straight. Can I just replace the clutch on the front? if so what's all involved. I need to do the entire compressor?
View 12 RepliesAs stated in the title, I've been experiencing a creaking/groaning noise originating from the dead pedal/foot-rest area when I release the clutch as I'm accelerating from first gear. This happens more so when I'm accelerating from a stop on any sort of incline (irrespective of the grade) and primarily in the afternoon/early evening when the weather's at its warmest for the day.
The noise itself originated about a month ago. Although I describe it as a creaking/groaning it sometimes sounds like a slight metal on metal friction noise.
My car's stock with the exception of Driver Gear springs and a BSH 27mm sway bar in the rear. Wheels are OEM 16s. I've had the DG springs on my car for about 3 months before this noise began and mileage was around 9,900Km.
My 2001 Tacoma drives well most of the time, but when in 4 wheel drive low range, low gear, in demanding circumstances like heavy snow, it will buck, jump, act like the clutch is alternately and rapidly grabbing and releasing (but I'm pretty sure it's not actually that). Tires are good. Four cylinder, standard transmission.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L V8 4x4 ... Automatic transmission sport model
I have a severe shaking at 1500 rpm last gear and a slight shaking at idle doesn't shake when I'm off the gas barely shake when I kick it into higher revs but I than hear piston slap.
I replaced the spark plugs and I have brand new U-joints. Last night I checked all the plug wires and they are all getting spark. But my exhaust is skipping like I'm not firing in a couple cylinders
I checked the rear transmission mount (I'm replacing it). And the Engine mounts look ok but I'll check again today
I've read a ton of forums and they all have different answers so I'm really trying to figure out what is wrong before I spend a bunch of money replacing things that won't fix it!
I've read that it can be my tranny, TC, Harmonic Balancer, Steering Stabilizer, pinions, Tie rods, Steering(over all), IAC, Fuel System, IgnitionSystem.
I've got a 07 accent with 90k miles on it. It has recently started slipping some (revs high, while in gear, without accelerating, especially in 5th gear). It also can be physically hard to move the shifter into gear sometimes (with my hand).
So, does this mean I need a new clutch? Or are there other possibilities? Should I replace/fix anything with the clutch? Sounds like the flywheel should be resurfaced? Will it shift more smoothly after the fix?
Is this something a newb could do himself? I can change the oil, rotate tires. Outside of that I haven't done much. My toolset for now is fairly limited: two jackstands, a trolley jack, torque-wrench and ratchet sets.
I have a 98 Ford Explorer Sport V6 with a 5-speed and 4wd (mechanically Identical to the Ranger) and I've been having a problem ever since the new clutch was put in.
The previous clutch cracked in some way and took the pressure plates with it, so it has an all new clutch and plates, installed by a friend who has a shop. Ever since getting the new hardware, I get a violent vibration when letting out the clutch in First or Reverse from a stop. Friend says it's probably the flywheel, and that fixing it is more trouble than it's worth-- just live with it. If I rev the throttle a bit while letting off the clutch, it engages much more smoothly, but if I do this at idle it shakes violently.
The one weird thing is that it doesn't do this when the engine is cold. For the first ten minutes of driving, the clutch engages smoothly like any other car, but as the engine comes up to temp the shaking returns. This doesn't sound like the flywheel to me.
I have vw passat 2001 model the whole car shakes in 4rth and 5th gear and i have bough vcds and tried to play a lot with it all these reading taken in idle position i also tried to do a full scan but that doesnt shown any thing related to the problem also can bus has no communication may be its faulty.
Here are some screen shots....
Just bought a 2000 passat v6. I have owned a 99 passat 1.8t for 5 years and has had little to no problems. When I first was driving my newer v6 I noticed that when im downshifting from 3rd to second especially it has shaking feeling in the front end. Wasn't sure if this was a transmission problem or an axle problem.
View 14 RepliesI have this problem with my B5 and have no clue what it is. When I'm driving around wherever, the car starts to vibrate and shake when I go in third gear or anything above 40mph. I don't want to jump to thinking its my transmission. [URL] .....
View 12 RepliesWe have a 2006 Mini Cooper Cabrio with 55K miles. The car is a lot of fun, but lately I've run into a problem: when starting movement and engaging first gear, as I release the clutch and engage the engine - the car/engine shakes briefly. Sometimes just a little bit, sometimes quite severely, but always noticeable and resonating through the car. This happens when you apply very little gas (less noticeably) and when you give considerably more gas (shakes a lot more and when it engages - gives an abrupt kick).
This also happens in the second gear, but not to the same degree. Today this happened every time i've shifted into first or second and i'm getting worried that we are in for some expensive repair on a fairly low mileage car.
I'm not new to manual transmission and have learned to drive on a car with a stick. I've been behind the wheel for 20 years with driving manual on and off for at least half the time.
2000 Nissan Pathfinder, 150k miles, automaticWhen I accelerate between 2nd and 3rd (from what it feels) the whole car shakes. No matter what speed I'm already at.I recently had both CV axles replaced. Transmission fluid doesn't have any flaky stuff or anything, it's pink though. The check engine light is always on, but it starts to blink when it starts to shake between 2-3 gear.
It's been doing this for about two weeks, nothing has changed, average 15 miles a day. No weird smells from the engine, leaking radiator fluid super slowly (was told to just keep filling it)To start the car I have to press the gas slightly.That's everything I know is wrong with it. I just want the shaking to stop. Does it sound like I need new transmission fluid or something?
Last night I was messing around with a bimmer. I was on 2nd gear, so i floored it and it wouldn't go in third gear. So I tried fourth and it wasn't going 4th neither. So i threw it in fifth. Started driving, I down shifted back into third, the car started shaking. Now the car shakes so much on idle. This all happen last night. I went home, and i checked out the coil packs. They seem to be fine. I was told it could be my spark plugs. So this morning,i replaced the spark plugs and coil packs and the car still shakes a lot on idle and when i drive it. I scanned it, and nothing pops up, no check engine light. My motor mounts seem good. I just recently got my um N/A tune. I feel like the tune is doing this. I have no clue whats the problem. I changed the spark plugs and coil pack for no reason. Also under my exhaust mid pips where the clamps are right after the cats. Water is leaking out. So i thought the gas station i went to, use water in their gas. Gas was low, so i put more gas, and still having the same problem.
View 24 RepliesI just bought a 2001 Accent, very well taken care of. It is the 1.6, automatic, 148,000 miles. Just before I bought it, the owners put new tires on, replaced the plugs/wires/belts/timing belt/all fluids/head gasket. I did a search on this topic and saw a lot of things, but nothing definitive.
I've noticed that when at a stop (in gear) the car shakes a good amount, and with the A/C on it's significantly worse. There is no check-engine light, and the car seems to run and shift very well. I'm not used to small cars with small engines, so I don't know if it's normal or not.
I did look at the motor mounts (front and passenger side) and from what I can tell just taking a peek, they don't look bad, but again it was just a peek. The mounts don't look like they've ever been changed, but then again the whole car looks brand new, the owners took really good care of it (the inside looks like it's never been ridden in).
I do also have noise coming from the speedometer, that goes away temporarily when the back of the cable/speedo is lubed and then comes back, but my first concern is the shaking.