My engine temp indicator shows overheat to the red line, however when I stop the car I can put my hand on the radiator cap and leave it there. No signs of any leaks anywhere. The top radiator hose on the drivers side is hot. Engine runs fine. Oil on dipstick clean. I can't find anything to back up my temp indication. What else I can look for? 1987 chev caprice classic brougm ls 5.o liter.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2001 Volkswagen Jetta 1.8T Wolfsburg Edition.
Recently the temp gauge sits at 260* as soon as the car starts, but it's not actually overheating. Car runs/drives fine and will do so for many, many miles. Even in stop and go traffic. Was told the thermostat was replaced, but that didn't fix the issue although it doesn't sound like a thermostat issue since the car isn't actually overheating. Coolant is topped off as well.
I am thinking it's a bad sensor. Where is it located on this car?
Car is a friends and she said she took it to a shop to have the coolant checked and they were also the ones who did the thermostat.
Last summer the car would randomly overheat and we would switch the heater on and the temp needle would nose dive into normal range in 30 seconds. It made me think that maybe it wasn't really overheating.
This summer its started again. It gets almost into the red within minutes of driving it. There have been times where I turned and the needle went from almost the red zone to the normal range. Making me think its not overheating, but that nagging feeling tells me I need to know for sure.
The car will overheat within a few minutes. There were no visible leaks. I replaced upper and lower radiator hoses and refilled lost fluids. Driving it the first time, the upper radiator hose popped off and overheated. I initially thought it was the clamp being faulty so I bought a new clamp. Installed new clamp. Same thing. Same hose popped off again. Put it back on and its leaking fluid around the hose some how.
I know the lower hose has a coil in it to prevent collapse, should the upper too (haven't seen it collapse)? Why might it be leaking around the hose?
Next is the thermostat. That will be replaced this weekend. I'm pretty confident that it isn't the engine block cracked or a bad head gasket.
How should I remedy this hose issue and what course of action should I go for next? Water pump?
I am a new Prius III owner and am interested in knowing exactly when the engine is running. While the vehicle is moving it is very difficult to tell. I understand that there is a graphic screen that shows red arrows moving out of the engine, but when using other screens I can't tell if the engine is running. Wiring an LED indicator light that shows when the engine is running? And if so, where what power supplied for the light?
View 13 RepliesI have a 20th GTI and the Temp light is flashing. The car does not overheat, and runs normally. The temp gauge acts normally.
View 6 RepliesI have less than 7k miles on my new Silverado W/T. I haven't hauled anything heavy in it since I bought it, and have been using it just back and forth to work. Pretty light duty. I was parked the other night in a parking lot idling and listening to the radio when I noticed the transmission temp jumped up to 189 degrees! I also noticed the water gauge was a bit past it's mid-range temp. I immediately cranked up the heater core to try to cool things down and it worked for the main radiator water temp..but the tranny sender quickly went to 200 degrees so I shut the whole mess down.
Just before I did that, the transmission idiot light popped on. I left it there for several hours in 20 degree weather and came back to start the truck and head home..the tranny on start-up was still @ 70 degrees. I got up on the hiway and things came down to about 100 degrees at a legal speed on the hiway. Engine water temp was normal too. Drove for about 45 minutes that way. I tried sitting in my driveway a day or so later in park, and the tranny temp went from 120 degrees to 145 degrees in 35 degree weather fairly quickly.
I own an old 95 Ford Taurus and have been having problems with it over heating. We have replaced head gaskets, there was a small crack got that repaired. We also replaced the radiator cap. I just replaced the whole radiator. Has new radiator hose too. The needle reaches all the way to the top line right before reaching the red zone within like 5-10 minutes of driving. It will eventually go back down but maybe just to between the o and r the gauge is vertical. I don't know what else it could be and can't afford to get another car at the moment. When i get home the reservoir is full and radiator is hot. After maybe 15-20 minutes of having the car shut off the water is sucked back in to the radiator.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2004 rx330 and it's recently been acting up. Sometimes the heat and air won't work, there is a noticeable difference in the way the car drives too.
I hit climate and it shows check air conditioner connection line and nothing works, it's making for very cold drives to and from work.
I am getting a blinking red indicator on the status screen whenever the power is off (locked or unlocked), with a symbol of a padlock over a car.
View 5 RepliesI bought a replacement bulb, swapped it out. No dice. I swapped over the passenger side low beam and still no dice. At this point I know its not the bulbs. I swapped in the original Driver's side light to the passenger side and it works. So now I have an extra bulb.
But the light is not working when I know the bulbs are good. Is this a fuse problem? It just happened one day while driving home from work the light shows up.
How should I go about fixing this and is it most likely a fuse that has gone out or something far worse?
This past Saturday afternoon I'm out driving on the highway when the temperature gauge on dash maxes-out and the overheat warning light comes on. I get off at the next exit and stop at the nearest repair shop. (Which happened to be not too far from the exit.) During these moments of driving the car is not behaving as if it were overheating. No steam/vapor coming from the engine, it's performing okay, A/C runs cold, running heater on full-blast seems to do nothing to ease the gauge and the temperature in the engine bay feels about "normal."
So, since this is a Saturday at almost 5PM most of the repair shops are closing (it's a known fact cars don't break down past 5 o'clock on Saturdays.) So they say the'll look at it on Sunday.
I get a call on Sunday and I'm told that as near as they can tell the car is not overheating, the overheat light or check-engine lights weren't coming on and the car is behaving normally. The thermostat is "gunked up" and they recommend new coolant or a coolant flush." I just opt for new coolant, forgoing the flush, as I didn't really have the funds for it, an additional $100 or so. They say there are no codes in the system.
They do it and end up having to keep the car overnight so that the... air bubbles will work out of it? (?!)
I pick it up this past Monday evening and on the drive home the temp-gauge does as it was doing when this process began. It started creeping "hotter and hotter" meanwhile the car is behaving otherwise fine. (No overheat light this time.) Get home, open the hood, no vapor, no excess heat. Nothing.
They spend quite a bit of time running it, hooking it up to a diagnostic machine, etc. While the temp-gauge is sort of "floating around" between normal and "hot" it doesn't reach an "overheat" and the diagnostic machine registers normal temperatures. This time they find a code in the system, though the check-engine light has never come on. They recommend, again, the coolant flush so I go ahead and do it (they give me a discount), and drive the car home, again the temp-gauge "floats" around the dial, never quite getting to "overheating."
I drive to work just fine Thursday (today) morning with no real trouble with the gauge. (Though, FWIW, I had to tap on the dash to get the dash-light on that side of the console to come on.) This brings us to Thursday afternoon.
I make a couple of errands and as I'm stopped at a pharmacy drive-thru the temp-gauge is "floating." Driving home on the highway it reaches "overheating", turning the light on (again, car is not behaving in an overheating manner. A/C still cold, running heat doesn't ease gauge, no vapor from engine compartment.) When I pull in my parking spot the A/C and the car starts to "stall" some and NOW the check-engine light comes on. I shut the car off and I see vapors coming from under the hood.
I open the hood and the engine is covered in the anti-freeze/coolant and the coolant reservoir is empty. The various hoses and such that are clipped on to parts of the front engine cowling are loose (the plastic screw/"snaps" came out of their holes) and pushing on the upper-radiator some and it seems awfully loose. (Like the upper mounts aren't properly seated or something.)
Call the shop ask them what they are doing to me, they say they'll have another look at it and pay for the tow to get the car back to their shop. Awaiting word on what is going on, likely sometime tomorrow.
All of this strikes me as very, very odd and all seems to pile up quickly from taking it to this shop. With a replaced thermostat and flushed coolant I have a hard time understanding how the engine could genuinely overheat. All of the hoses and such seemed fine, and running the engine for a while at the shop the other day generated no problems to the techs working on the car. Yet, they're the only ones who have messed with it. Assumptions on their part Tuesday afternoon were something to do with the water pump (replaced at 100,000 miles with timing belt. Car is now at 145,000 miles.) Or a faulty temperature sensor (or what passes for it on the car) sending false readings to the gauge.
Car is a 2000 Ford Focus ZTS with a 4-Cyl, 16V, 2.0 Liter engine. It has 145,000 miles on it, timing belt and water-pump were replaced at 100,000 miles have had regular oil-changes on (more or less) every 5,000 miles or so. I will admit to not getting coolant changes/flushes as often as one should but the car never really had an overheating issues or problems starting in the winter.
2006.5 Kia Optima stuck in park and indicator shows R for Reverse. The car roles as if in neutral. Since the car thinks it is in Reverse, I assume this is why the car will not start even though the shifter itself is in Park.
View 5 RepliesWhy, after so many repairs and $$$$ with a AAA Certified Repair shop, the temp gauge that sooner or later shows the needle HOT? Everything accounted for - thermostat 5x, radiator 3x, computer, maintenance, etc etc etc. " It's fixed !!" and then it's starts all over again. It's got 186,000 on it, couple of minor wrecks, all maintenance kept up, still driving it but the needle goes back up again and again. Funny thing, water levels remain the same, no smoke, no red engine light, slight smell of a hot engine but nothing else so far. Still, that needle!! This has been going on a couple of years. Want to figure it out before I get rid of the car. 2003 Civic Coupe DX ....
View 3 RepliesI have a weird problem with the AC on my 2001 Passat. Every so often, evidently at random, the computer will show an outside temp that is far below actual. It will sometimes drop to -58F, even when it is hot outside. It won't always go that far down--and it eventually returns to the true temperature. But when this happens, the AC turns off, or the heat turns up (I have the Climatronic thingy). We have to shut the climate control off altogether in order not to roast. Turning off the car is not always a fix for this, and neither is turning off the AC. I suspect a sensor of some kind has gone bad, but the dealership wants an exorbitant amount of money just to dig deep enough in the car to discover what is wrong. This has been going on for 6 months, in all weather, but with greater frequency lately.
View 3 RepliesI just picked up an 05 6.0 Limited and love it, but I can't figure out the overhead temperature gauge. It shows -40 degrees no matter what, but if I hit the outside temp button on the climate control, it shows the (mostly) correct temp. I verified that the temp sensor in front of the radiator is still there and hooked up, and it seems to me that Ford wouldn't go to the expense of using separate sensors for each readout, so I'm guessing that the problem is in the overhead unit itself. All of the other functions (compass, mileage, range) work just fine. I've seen several threads about the overhead dying completely as chips rattle loose. Is it also common for just specific functions to go out as things start to shake apart?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 Chevy Colorado, 5 cylinder, automatic, 4wheel drive with 62,700mi. 1st problem occurred in 2013 new thermostat was replaced then in 2015 temp. gauge shows overheating problem again. All diagnostic problems have been analyzed by mechanic and nothing further could be done. Mechanic suggests to take truck to dealer. The temp. reading still shows above normal operation and the engine compartment has signs of overheating also. If the truck driven on uphill range the temp. goes higher I refuse to drive in this condition which will surely ruin the entire engine.
View 2 RepliesI have an 06 phaeton v8. just this week, the engine performance seems perfect, but the water temp now approaches the red line, not quite but very close and the oil temp goes over the 200 mark up to 240. this happens in cold weather. so i drive slow. if i go up a hill, the temp really goes up. only in idle and going down hill will the water temp drop back to 200. I opened the blue cap in the engine compartment when the engine was cold. it looked like "brownish fluid " but it was or appeared filled.
View 7 RepliesFluctuating temperature gauge? In the past few weeks I have noticed that my temp gauge goes over the normal temp line but the car never actually overheats. This doesn't happen all the time and only every once in a while. Today however, the gauge went very high and I immediately put the heat on high and it slowly dropped to normal again.
I had a water pump replaced several years ago and last year had the thermostat replaced as well. The only thing I have had done recently was an oil change at one of those convenience stations. During the check-point, I was asked if I wanted the filter changed that filters the air coming into the car. I said no, but now wondering if they actually disconnected something when checking for this. The reason I'm bringing this up is because sometimes I don't get hot air when the heat is on or cold air when the a/c is on.
After reading online more about this, I read that a faulty Temperature Sensor can give a false reading. Just added some water to the radiator but not much...so no leaks that I can see.
I have a 2001 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab XE with a V6 (without the supercharger). I bought it on Halloween night with only 42,000 miles. It now has 112,000 miles on it. I moved from Georgia to Kentucky and heard that I needed to have the cooling system flushed/filled to prevent it from freezing in the winter time. I then noticed that it would periodically "overheat." The temperature gauge would climb up to the line just below the "H" and then I would turn on the heater.
I read online about a "bleeder valve" on top of the intake manifold. I loosened it, squeezed the radiator hoses to get all of the air out and then tightened the bleeder valve. I then let it run until the thermostat opened, revved it up to 3,000 to let all of the coolant flow. Now, at various time with no specific reason, it will run fine and then just "decide" to overheat.
I can drive it on the interstate for fifteen minutes, park it in front of my house and then have to "tack it up to 3,000" just to get it cool. I've changed the thermostat and had the water pump tested. Neither of them are faulty. My mechanic vacuumed out all of the air from the system with a special tool the dealer recommends using and it still does the same thing. What's going on with this vehicle?
while driving outside temperature indicator went down to 25 (its about 70 outside) 5 min after my dashboard went blank.? Car is running fine, radio works.. (its 06, 2.0T)
View 4 RepliesThe throttle moves by itself, and the arrow of the temp indicator goes up and down randomly. Sometimes it won't start, or starts and then dies. The check engine light is not on, so my mechanic says he doesn't know what to fix and it might be the computer and I have to take it to the dealer.Well, there is no Saturn dealer, so I'm taking it to a Chevy dealer that is doing Saturn repairs. What I might expect?I just had a new air intact put in and a throttle sensor about a year ago.The antifreeze was recently flushed. 1997 Saturn wagon ...
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