Caprice :: 94 L99 V8 Would Start After Prolonged Cranking
May 26, 2016
I have a 94 Caprice L99 4.3L V-8 won't start . Car has been sitting about a year with a full tank of gas. I parked it because I was having hard start no start issues during rainy or really humid weather assumed it was the opti distributor . The car would start after prolonged cranking. Saved up for parts now I have no fuel pressures at the Schroeder valve I pulled the fuel filter it was clear no fuel there with the key on. I can feel the relay click and hear the fuel pump cycle but only after I ( bump the starter ) but no fuel pressure.
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Just recently my 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 V6 started having problems when starting on cold days. I live In PA and it just started to dip below 40 degrees. When I go to start my vehicle it will crank over longer like its is not getting fuel or something else. It will eventually start and when I turn it off quickly it will start up fine or after it is warm it will start up normal. When the vehicle sits for some hours and its cold outside it will have trouble starting again. The battery is fine had it tested and cca are just below what the norm is for the battery. Today the temperature was 52 and the vehicle started up just fine with no hesitation or prolonged start.
Another thing that happens when its cold out is right after you put the vehicle in drive and give it gas to start moving it will chug a couple of times before it will have full power then its fine. This has only been happening in the winter. I didn't have any problems with the chugging in the summer.
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My dad has a 92 Caprice with a v8 in it. I couldn't tell the liters. It also has an automatic transmission. I went to start it to move it today and it cranked and cranked almost like it was empty on gas. It kept making the sound as if it was beginning to start and then it slows back down to just cranking and cranking. I'm thinking something fuel related.
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I got a caprice 94 l99 it was driving perfect. i was on my way home then it started to put put then the engine cut. gave it like 3 mins it started drove 1 block started to put then the engine cut. now doesnt start at all just cranks the gas gauge says it has 1/4 tank of gas.
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I have chevorlet caprice 2006 LTZ, whenever I switch off my car after running with AC on (means heat shows 50%) does not start. It simply cranks up but does not start,I try 3-4 times it starts, everything works fine . It starts perfectly in morning or after idle for long time. What stops the start, is it the fuel pump? I did computer scan but nothing detected.
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I just got a 1985 Caprice Classic, V8 305. I sometimes have trouble starting it when the engine is cold. When I received the car from a family member, he gave me some spray for the carburetor. This does the trick, but I would like to fix it so that I do not have to resort to this.
The visor has some instructions for starting the engine. The directions say to depress the gas pedal once before trying to start, and 2x when it is very cold outside. I'm concerned that the car won't start at all when the winter comes.. Where should I start to troubleshoot this issue?
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When start my Caprice (1986) carb-- I used to step on the gas pedal (half step is more than enough) to start the car.
Once the car started it's idling normally, but suddenly after 3 or 4 minute the sound of engine go high idling as if I stepped on the gas and that is remaining for long time even if I step full gas, and if I turnoff the the engine and pull out the key, the car will remain working hardly and shaking like crazy before it completely stop.
What is the problem with my 86 Caprice Brougham? is that problem easy to fix?
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I put a new battery and the fuel tank is full but the car always has trouble starting. the other day i sat trying to start it, pumping the gas for 10 minutes or so. Nothing. I noticed some dripping under the car but it looked like coolant. Could this be something bigger? I have a new battery in. Do I have to go and start it every week and let it run for a few minutes? Any portable car jump start?
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I'm a Santa Fe owner since I bought a 2007 2.2CRDI 4 wheel drive model in 2008. It's been a great machine with over 340000 Km on the clock.
This motor has caused no problems until now, and oil & filter changed as specified. This motor had never needed engine oil top-ups until recently, and my tale of woe started about two weeks ago when I got a "sump level low" light when stopped on a steeply inclined drive. I stopped the engine and rolled back to flat ground where the light disappeared on re-start. I duly topped up the engine oil, and it took about two litres to bring it up midway on the dipstick.
All seemed ok until about a week later I spotted a longer than usual shut-off of the oil pressure warning light, and over a period of three maybe five startups from cold it has gone from a delay of two seconds to five, even six. The oil in use is a 10/40, so clearly that will suit cold starts best. Once the light has gone out it stays out, even after a long drive though a short stop/start will show a delay of up to a second before the light goes out. The engine still sounds smooth with no rattles that might associate oil starvation.
My mechanic thinks it may be the oil strainer in the sump, or worst case scenario the oil pump. There has been a whining noise from the engine for some time which raises with the engine rev's, and this seems (according to some blogs) maybe to be associated with oil pump wearing out?
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I have a 2012 F-250 ccsb lariat and the shift from 3 to 4 seems to be a bit prolonged as if the converter is slipping and wont go ahead and push it into 4 gear. Also it will want to downshift from 3 to 1 and feels like the car behind nailed you. I have read that the early 2011 had some of this problem and the dealer reflashed the tcm and it did not do much good but as mine being a 2012 mine should have been flashed with the lastest tcm flash from the get go?? Egr fell off and am running Kory Willis tunes through ez lynk so the stealership is probably out of the question. I have also read that changing a couple solenoids( dont remember which ones) will fix the problem.
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Acquired a 1997 Subaru Legacy a few weeks ago. Drive it for a prolonged time in the heat, at speed, and you can smell warm coolant from the engine compartment. And the temperature gauge hovers in the middle of the dial, no matter what.
My wife explained the smell away by guessing she'd spilled coolant when she topped it up. But it's been weeks since she did that. Also - this sucker drinks coolant. I'm guessing every 2-3 days I'm adding another gallon.
It occurs to me that ... maybe .. a leak on top of a pipe so the coolant doesn't drip out, but the loss of pressure (from the hole) causes the fluid to boil and flash out? This might explain the 'higher than I'd like to see' operating temperature.
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On a 1998 F150 2 wheel drive 4.6 250k, the front brakes will drag under a specific set of circumstances; only in prolonged stop and go traffic with hot ambient temps. Rotors, calipers, rear shoes, drums, fluid, bearings, seals have all been replaced. This occurs only a couple of times a year, otherwise the brakes work perfectly. It starts out as a slight shimmy that worsens until you can smell the pads cooking and the wheels are hotter than hell. The truck will hardly move at times. The rears are normal. After the truck cools for hours, no symptoms.
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My van ran fine, no problems until yesterday. I started it and it ran for a few minutes then I heard it bog down 2 times ran for a few more minutes fine then stalled. Now it turns over but will not start. I can hear fuel pump, I changed fuel filter.
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When I try to turn on the car it cranks and seems like it is about to start but just keeps cranking. I have put dry gas, shoot starter fluid up the air filter and tried jumping it. I have managed to get it started but dies a second later. Not sure what to do, someone told me that it might be the fuel filter.
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I received a remote start for xmas and I'm usually pretty handy, but I've hit a wall today. I've got it responding to the code and turning the car on but it doesn't spin the starter. I've checked the hood switch by holding it down while hitting the code and it doesn't appear to be prohibiting starting.
2007 Camry XLE
[URL] .....
Here's the Main Power Harness and my connections:
Red, Red + White -> Black: Constant 12v
Violet -> Blue: Starter
Pink -> Yellow: Ignition
Pink + White -> Pink: Ignition 2
What would be keeping it from cranking the starter?
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I have a Mk4 GTI with the 24v vr6. Car wont start, just cranking for days. This all happened a week ago. I was at work, went on lunch at 12 and drove home to eat, come back at 1 and park it. 4 o clock I get off, try to start my car and nothing. Just cranking no turn over. Ive had no prior problems with this car, other than some misfires from 2 different coils, which I've replays 2 of them.
Car has absolutely no spark. Here's the parts I've regretted throwing at it because of this
-Coolant temp sensor
-Spark plugs
-Crankshaft sensor
-Fuel pump relay
I thought for sure it would of been the crankshaft sensor but I put it in and got nothing. I've checked all my fuses and they are all good. Finally got my code read with a vagcom last night and got these 2 codes
01177 no communication to ecu
01314 no communication to ecu
I also get no CEL when turning the key on "ON" which tells me ecu.
So I've kind of narrowed it down to 3 things, but it wouldn't surprise me if it was something else though. I think it's either the ECU, relay 428 for ecu, or wiring on the ecu. I swapped in a working BDF ecu and got nothing. I figured it would at least start and then cut off because of the immobiliser, but maybe im wrong. I know when my key imobiliser died it started and then cut off, maybe with a different ecu that's not married to the car is different and wont start, I am not sure. how this works.
So after the ecu swap didnt work I started reading wires. Going off the diagram here [URL] .....
I have found the following
a) pins 1/2 for ecu ground are OKAY read 12v
b) pin 21 read 12v
c) pin 3 would go to about .12 while cranking. idk what it is supposed to be
d) pin 23, which is ground to the relay 428, read .01, which is the same reading i got off the ground for the relay spot
e) pin 62 gave me nothing with the car off
So right now my concern is kind of on the relay 428. I don't know what it is supposed to read but that seems kind of off for .12v power while cranking and .01 ground. What should these readings be? should i be reading them while cranking?
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The first time I replaced a battery. It has run flawlessly until now. (Approx 57,000 miles) It is equipped with a push button start. FOB works fine to unlock doors, etc. I depressed the brake pedal and pushed the start button. Instrument panel lit up as normal, but there was no cranking. Nav comes on. Everything "looks" fine, but there is no engine activity.
I tried: I read a post where the person "rocked" the car back and forth several times and it ultimately started. Simple and immediate enough to try. No luck. A jump start. It didn't. Held start button for 30 seconds then attempted to start. No go. Did same with foot on brake.
Inserted FOB into the "smart key holder" inside the center console and attempted to start. Nada - Attempted this because for one brief second during jumping process, panel flashed a message saying FOB not recognized then went away. Car responds to FOB just fine).
Inserted FOB in center console again following the instructions in this post. Didn't work. The brake pedal is solid. I read this is most likely because vacuum pressure did not build when the engine did not run.
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I have a 2001 Golf GLS that normally starts on a dime.
It's already had replaced:
New Starter - 11/2/12Ignition Coil / Plugs - 5/22/13Rebuilt Alternator - 5/9/14New Battery - July 2015
The other day, nothing happened when trying to start her, no cranking or anything. The lights work, battery is good.
Yesterday, I depressed the clutch all way to the floor and it started.
Not sure if it's related, but I'd like to trouble shoot before I take it to a shop who's going to want to replace everything.
Car has 154,445 miles. Not original owner, so don't know how they drove it. We got it with 150k
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I have a mk4 golf 1.8t that cranks but wont start. It was running fine for about a year. Then one day it will crank and not start. Since this issue has happened I have replaced the :
-fuel pump-
-fuel pump relay-
-coils-
-spark plugs-
-crank position sensor-
-fuses-
the car still cranks strong (with a jump bc its been about a month or so since its actually ran)
no fuses blown
fuel lines have pressure ( maybe have to bleed the lines ?)
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my 97 chevy blazer has a lot of cranking first start in the day. I changed the rotor and distributor cap but I don't smell any fuel then all fo asudden it will start. I am wondering is it a fuel relay problem, a fuel filter, or some sort of sensor. when it does start it is very smooth running no shaking or hesitation full of power for the rest of the day starts and stops erands . is it worth buying a plug in code gadget and will this problem show up as a code.
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Stuck at Starbucks at the moment waiting for my car to get towed. Thought I would post here to get some feedback.
I have a 2002 4 cylinder Camry that is refusing to start. The battery seems OK as all the lights are on. The car is not turning over either (cranking).
The car has had no issues (touch wood) since I got it at 50k miles. It is currently at 100k miles.
I believe the issue is with the starter. When I started the car earlier today, I noticed it started a little differently then before. It took a second or two longer to start.
Does the problem can be a starter? I am getting the car towed to my house in about an hour.
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