Caprice :: 1996 LT1 - AC Compressor Clutch Plate Stalled
Nov 12, 2012
I'm using a compressor clutch kit to try and pull off the compressor clutch plate from my '96 LT1. Using the tools I got the clutch plate almost all the way off but then it stalled. I've broken every one of the remover screws trying to get it off the last bit. I'm considering picking up a 3 jaw puller to get the job done.
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Pretty sure the a/c clutch on my LT1 is going - making lots of noise when working and also when not.
I've heard on some forums that this could be a bearing? Is it advisable for me to replace the entire clutch or just this bearing?
Either way, I assume I'll have to pull the clutch for which I think I'll need two special tools:
(1) clutch holder tool to break nut loose.
(2) pulley puller.
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He has a 96 explorer and his ac compressor clutch was cycling on and off. So he went and bought 2 20 ounce cans of 134a and proceeded to add it to the evaporator service port. Of course a lot of it sprayed out side of it as it did not fit well (duh). So he has no Idea how much he actually got in there out of the 30 or so ounces he dispensed. He is laughing at himself with me on this. He says hi ahead of time
I have access to good gauges and a reclaimer and vacuum as I work sometimes for a residential ac guru. So what to do? I was thinking the evaporator should be changed out but I want a second opinion. Then vacuum and add new 134.
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I am having trouble with my air conditioning system in my 1996 Chevy Lumina. When I turn on the AC, the compressor clutch does not engage and the fans do not spin. I was able to jump the compressor so the clutch engaged, however, the fans still did not spin and the AC was not cold. I then jumped the low pressure cycling switch (near the accumulator), which caused the fans to spin while the compressor was running. However, this still did not produce cold air from the AC and none of the AC lines were cold to the touch. I am starting to think the system is low on Freon, but I do not have gauges to test the pressure.
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I got a 96 caprice sedan...have very little heat at idle but pretty good as long as I am moving or above idle rpms..put in new stat....ran water through core...appears to have had new water pump recently...check heater box for blockage..its clear and all flaps are working as they should....I am at my wits end....
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My Chevrolet 1992 Caprice Air conditioner is chilling but the compressor doesn't disengage when reach the right temperature inside cabin... There seems to be a temperature control or a sensor and I don't know where is it...
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So I am on my way home after an honest 8, and I make it a mile down the road and goose the old girl a little off a stop light. Well next thing I know we have smoke rolling out under the hood, well it turns out the "smoke" was r134 refrigerant. The guy that recharged it said that the compressor failed and that its common with retrofits because 134a runs at a higher pressure.
Now I don't need a/c, and I might just leave it as is, but it would be nice to have the old girl working 100%. It also turns out that the front seal of the transmission is leaking, I am debating whether or not to just have the transmission rebuilt. it shifts fine but its gotta come out anyway. Its a 700r4 and the trans guy recommends stronger 3-4 clutches and a shift kit to make the holding pressure higher.
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While driving my 2002 Honda CRV (155000 miles) to work yesterday, I noticed the AC was working intermittently. Soon enough, I heard a loud clunk under the car and noticed a part had fallen into the street. I circled back and picked it up. After a bit of research I figured out it was the AC Compressor clutch plate. After doing more research I noticed that early Honda CRVs are known for having AC problems - and mine is not the first clutch plate to have fallen off.
My questions are as follows:
Is there any harm in (trying) to reinstall the clutch plate?
Does the fact that my clutch plate fell off mean something else is wrong (e.g., the compress has frozen up)?
If the compressor is bad does 'black death' always occur?
Finally, if I am going to replace the compressor. Do you recommend I just get an AC kit (compressor, condenser, drier, etc.)
I know this isn't an easy repair, but I think I can handle it with my father. That old fart can fix anything!
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1999 F250 SD 5.4 with 140k miles. There is a triangular plate with a bolt in the center and and what looks like a bolt in each corner of the plate.
Two of three bolts in the plate are missing and the third is loose allowing the plate to spin freely. Center bolt is tight.
Gotten to the point it's really noisy. Can the bolts be replaced in the plate or should I just go ahead and replace compressor. If bolts are replaceable what size?
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My Olds 98 has been having a very annoying problem and it's only been getting worse and worse as of late..
Ever since day one my car has always stalled while idling at a red light (in drive, in park it didn't really stall), well just a couple of weeks ago, if my tank fell below 1/4 it would stall repeatedly as if it were out of gas, and it has only been getting worse from there, stalling constantly at 1/2, 3/4.. And now today I am at a full tank of gas and I stalled about 6 times on my street, it's completely embarassing and I'm really close to just driving it off of a cliff.
Occasionally I would be able to "revive" it on the highway if I pump the gas aggressively, but that just delays the inevitable for about 10 seconds. Also, the noise it makes as it's stalling (and as I'm pumping the gas pedal) is a loud chirping noise, I'm not sure if the 2 are related but sometimes my car would also jerk back for a split second driving 70mph or more, and it'd send make my (digital) speedometer go haywire.
I should also mention that I had a previous problem where my back tired exploded causing a ton of wires near the back of my car (and near the gas tank) to rip apart.
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In less than 30,000 miles, I've replace the clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate three times. Dealer adjuster clutch at 12,500. First replacement at 15,000 miles. I do not ride the clutch
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1996 Exp 4.0L OHV ... Wife drove it the other day, said made loud humming noise, then engine stalled. Drove it this am, did it to me too while idling in D with foot on brake... humms for about 1 min, and then stalls the engine... If I rev the engine, was still doing it... but came and went when I was driving then till I got her home...
I know there is a black plastic cap that makes a similar noise but not as loud, this seems like something else... and the fact it stalled the truck is bothersome... it started up then fine, but still. The only thing that is the same as when wife had it, is that both of these days are like under 10 degrees outside... So, me thinks MAP? or something else that doesn't like these REALLY cold temps? or??
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I was sitting at a red light and the car shuttered and the rpms dropped but went back to idle. Then when the light turned green I released the clutch to start like normal and the rpms dropped and stalled. It cranks but won't start. I'm getting fuel to the fuel rail and I replaced the coil pack about a year ago.
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I came home last night and rolled into the driveway. With the car in neutral I took my foot off the clutch and the car stalled. I get in the car this morning to go to work, and it's still happening. I put it in reverse to see if it will drive.....and now it's stuck in reverse.
I can't get it into any other gear or neutral..........even when the car is off. I've unattached the linkage, and the shift knob moves freely.....so I don't think it's that. I found these old threads (one even mine)
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So I'm lead to believe that the master/slave cylinder is acting up again. Also, how can I get it into neutral so I can at least get it towed and stop blocking my driveway?
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I have a 1998 Ford F150, Manual transmission. It has set for 1 year. Upon driving it for the first time yesterday, it gradually came to a stop. The clutch never smelled hot or appeared to slip. Today I took the inspection cover off and found a rather large nest has been built in the clutch and pressure plate. My question is could this nest cause the throw out bearing from allowing the pressure plate to make proper contact with the clutch. The truck will move in 1st gear and in reverse as long as there is no resistance against the truck.
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I was sitting at a red light and accidentally let out on clutch and stalled truck. The clutch petal hit the floor and I had to pull out of gear. Petal will come back up if you get it started up with foot but cannot change gears when running. Changes thru gears easy when not running.
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I just bought a 96 civic. The seller said he used the ac last year, after they charged it, with no problems. The ac was not cold now. I have the filling cable that only goes on the low pressure side. We turned the car and the ac on. I noticed that he had been driving the car with the ac turned on even though it was not cold. I connected the hose and it read 0 psi. It began to fill and you could tell it took some Freon nicely, maybe an ounce or 2, then, the compressor behaved like it was working real hard, the engine began working hard, the belt squealed for a minute, then stopped, the compressor began to smoke. The smoke was coming from between the compressor housing and the pulley. It smelled like the “I just burnt up my engine smell”, shortly after I began filling the low pressure read in the yellow range of the gauge. It did take some Freon in the normal range. I would like to mention that last summer I had used the pag 100 oil charge which some had been sitting in the fill hose all winter, don’t know if this makes a difference but I thought I should mention it
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For those people who received a holeless grill in a 2 plate state how did you mount your front plate. I am supposed to have the holeless grill installed this Wednesday. I was thinking about using zip ties and mount it underneath it's original location but I am afraid that I will be blocking the radiator. I could do it by the side grill.
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1996 Mazda Protege air conditioner died today in the lovely 2nd week of Kansas heat wave of over 100 degrees each day. Was replaced in 2006.
What should be the approximate cost of the parts and labor to replace? Is it normal to have died after 8 years? It was a reconditioned one.
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My daughter has a 2003 Saturn Vue 2.2 and it seems that the clutch if froze up... I have checked Freon level with a gauge that I use to top of Freon and seems ok... the vehicle has 170,000 thousand miles... are these compressors prone to failure and is there a "Quick Fix" without replacing compressor, orphis tube and dryer?
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My son has a S-10, 4.3 liter where the A/C compressor clutch or bearings occasionly freeze up. By that I mean the serpentine belt rotates, but the ac pulley freezes up. It amazes me that it hasn't broken the belt so far, but surely it will soon.
My question is, can he buy or shorter belt and bypass the ac altogether, as he never uses it, or replace the ac compressor with an idler pulley per the no ac 4.3 liter configuration? He really doesn't want to put a lot of money into the truck at this point as he is in college.
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