Caprice :: 1994 Engine Cuts Off After Driving For A While
Jun 23, 2006
I am having problems with my 94 Caprice. It will start right up when cold. After driving for awhile (not too long) then engine cuts off. Electric power is on but the engine is off (like it ran out of gas, or the gas was shut off). At first, it would take a few minutes for the engine to restart. Now that I have replaced the Fuel Pump Relay, it will start right back up, but when driving it still cuts off.
Could it be the ECM? Where is it located? Is it a "do-it-yourself" job?
What other problems might it be (besides the fuel pump)? Could it be the power distribution box under the hood? I also have fog lamps hooked up to the panel that wont work. The switch light comes on but the lamps do not. I am going to try to hook the (+) up to the battery and see if the lamps get power, if so, the box is fried (or the stud) But if the main power distribution wasnt working would the car still run, start? If the stud is damaged would it cause the gas to shut off?
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I have a 1994 Celica 1.8L ST which cut off on me while driving. I have been trying to troubleshoot the problem. Here's what I've done so far:
Originally after the engine would cut off I could get it to start again, but there came a point when it wouldn't start. I ended up replacing the ignition coil, and immediately the car fired up again and was running. However, the check engine light was now on and the engine had far less power and was running very rough. Nevertheless, the car was still working and would no longer cut off. Thus, I took the car to Precision Auto Tune to get a diagnostic test done, and they told me the distributor was bad.
I then purchased a new distributor and replaced the old one. Immediately the check engine light disappeared so I took the car out for a test drive and it ran perfectly; yet, after ten minutes, the engine suddenly cut off while driving down the road. After coasting the car to a place to park, it refused to start again. I left it overnight, tried starting it the next day and it randomly started. It ran for 10 minutes again in park before cutting off again. Since then, i thought the new distributor was faulty and exchanged it for another, but the engine still cuts off after running and refuses to start again. However, when it refuses to start, if I install the old "faulty" distributor, the car starts without a problem, but the check engine light also appears.
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I got a caprice 94 l99 it was driving perfect. i was on my way home then it started to put put then the engine cut. gave it like 3 mins it started drove 1 block started to put then the engine cut. now doesnt start at all just cranks the gas gauge says it has 1/4 tank of gas.
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94 Chevy Caprice. LT1 turn over too long before it crank. The motor turn over like 3 or 4 seconds before it fire up. What's the problem?
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The leak looked like it was coming from a heater hose. The individual I bought it from said he fixed it and it wasn't leaking the day I bought it. Upon driving it home...cranked the heat up and windows fogged, switched to defog with no luck. Added some coolant and still the same thing and leak began again.
It smells like antifreeze inside and fog has oily feeling when wiping it off the window. Got in on the lift and no luck seeing where it was leaking from, even with it running. My previous experience with bad heater cores is that it leaks on the inside and smells like coolant... is it leaking on the outside or is it something else?
It's NOT overheating or blowing any kind of smoke. Temp gauge read normal! It's a 4.3L, 1994 Caprice LS .....
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I have an F-150 with a 5.4L EFI and A/T. For the past two days while driving along the engine just cuts out. There is no chugging or sputtering. It just dies. When it happens, I place the trans in Neutral while still rolling along and it starts right up.
I had suspected it might have been a bad eec relay and connector that I had trouble with in the past, but I changed that all yesterday and the problem happened again today.
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So, my brother has an 01' VW Jetta 2.8 VR6 with a 120k miles on it. He was recently driving around 50mph when the engine cut out, he lost all power and all the lights on the dash came on. He didn't get any loud bang when it happened, it just cut out. He tried to restart the car but heard the starter try and nothing else.
He got it towed to a garage who said they suspected it might be a timing chain but they couldn't say for sure until they started poking around. He doesn't recall getting the loud "marbles in an" noise when the chain is about to go. They were quoting around $4k to replace the engine. Being as my brother is a poor student this isn't something he can do, plus he'd already replaced the radiator, tires and all that and I want to verify what is wrong with it.
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MT 2500 Where are you I've got a weird one. 99 Chevy 5.7 dully dump truck. The engine cuts out while driving at 3000rpms only. If you keep your foot in it it goes away at 3200. Does it in any gear(auto). Also, stopped and in park, it will do it at 4000rpms. Acts like a rev limiter. Fuel pressure does not change (60-62psi) when this happens, does it in open or closed loop. I disconnected the maf and no change. I've installed new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, module(all original with 165K), no change. Runs sensational until 3K rpms.
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Was just out and about today with my girlfriend and while driving back home, the engine just randomly cutout. I pulled over to the side of the road and popped the hood just to see if something came undone. Everything is kosher. Started it back up and carried on, but while driving the rpms kept dropping low and when stopped it would drop to about 450-500rpm.
So I put it in neutral and kept my foot on the gas to keep the engine up to about 1000-1500 RPM just so it wouldn't cutout. Drove part of the way home with overdrive off, even though speed limits in some areas won't let me even get into over drive. No check engine light, no messages on the message center, nothing. Looked into it and it seems to be one of several things.
Mass Air Flow sensor
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump
Throttle Position Sensor
Yesterday I did fill up with gas, so maybe I got a there after they filled up the tanks. 2003 Merc. Mountaineer 4.6L.
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Tonight while driving I heard a rattling noise under the engine, come to a stop and the engine cuts off. I pop the hood, get a jump and nothing. So I check the oil and it is dry... I changed it 4 months ago myself, it is a mystery how it leaked. No light came on, no oil leaks anywhere..
Is there any hope in having the engine turn over again? If so how should I go about trying to turn it? Engine only has 61000 miles on it.
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My 1989 740 Turbo wagon cuts out while I'm driving. It only ever does it at about the point when the engine first reaches its normal operating temperature. It can cut out while idling or when driving at normal speed. I'm not sure if it's related to temperature or time (it usually cuts out at about the 5-8 minute mark), or if this is simply coincidental. It does it nearly every day.
It's definitely caused by the fuel pump relay cutting out. I've replaced this already, with no improvement. Something is causing the relay to suddenly lose an input.
Once cut, it takes a few quick flicks of the key to the START position for the fuel pump relay to receive power again. It will then drive faultlessly for the rest of the day. Although, if allowed to sit and cool for many hours, it will sometimes do this again.
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1988 Bronco II - 2 days ago while driving my check-engine light came on for about 5 seconds, though there were no apparent drivability issues, then went away and did not come back for the remaining 20 or so miles home. Then yesterday while driving to a destination the engine cut out a few times. Gauges and such stayed illuminated but the engine lost power as if it wasn't getting fuel or spark. It occurred randomly over a 3 minute period: 1 second bogging, then 10 seconds powering, 3 bogging, 20 powering, 2 bogging... I depressed the clutch to check if the engine could idle and it stalled. Then I restarted the truck and drove 5 miles home with no issues or check engine light and even driving for a minute at WOT would not make the issue remanifest. I did not drive it today for fear of breaking down and I hope to get this solved before taking it on the road again.
I read the following codes:
KOEO: 11 (passes)
Continuous Memory: 22: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) or BARO sensor out of range.
KOER: 11 (passes)
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I bought my 1994 Accord LX new and am happy with it and the ~240K miles it has. Recently a very odd problem has emerged that is annoying...
Problem: The power to the radio cuts off now and then but only for a second. This of course always happens when I'm intensely listening to something like Car Talk. I first noticed it about 3 months ago while driving on the highway... whenever I tapped my brake peddle the radio would cut out. NOW the problem happens whenever it wants to...sometimes I go days without any problem, other times I can get a string of 5-10 failures right in a row and then it's "ok".
Here's the REALLY WEIRD thing... about 1:10 times when this happens BOTH the tachometer AND the speedometer cut out too! They drop to ZERO and then when the radio comes back on they pop back up to their proper readings... note nothing happens to the fuel or engine oil pressure gauges. The dashboard failures are what now have me worried.
What Have I done to address it? Nothing yet, not sure what to do... I cannot intentionally recreate the problem. Last time I took it to the mechanic for something else they looked at this but they couldn't recreate it. I'm afraid if I just ask someone to fix this it'll either cause a lot of hours to be racked up with no result or a lot of guesswork replacements.
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Volvo 940 1994 engine shuts off while driving?
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1994 Explorer V6 100,000 miles, it is getting fuel and spark. After driving for a short/long period the engine will turn over but won't start. If you floor the gas pedal it will fire up, with a small puff of black smoke out the exhaust. Fuel pressure regulator came first to mind, and has been replaced. Problem was cured for a few days, then it started again.
Next Idle Air Control solenoid. Replaced, with same results. Replaced EGR position sensor. This worked for a few weeks. Then starting issue came back. Then I was told to replace fuel pump relay. This was the last part replaced. It had been running great. Started warm without any issues for a week. But now I have a check engine light and hot start problem again.
If the gas is floored the truck will fire. If gas is not floored the engine keeps turning and turning. I am sure it is not a fuel pump problem, as there gas fumes and the tailpipe is black. Could it be Mass AIR FLOW ?
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I have a '94 Aztek that sounds like a small plane engine when driving. What is causing the noise?
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Today, I was driving my 89 Caprice, and I got the "Battery" warning light flash several times.
After, I noticed my headlamp not turning on anymore, as well as the instrument panel light. After playing around, my interior light doesn't work as well.
When I have the radio on, and I press the "headlamp" switch on the left side, the Radio goes into static. What could the issue be?
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I have a 1994 Toyota Camry. Took it to a shop to repair an oil leak. They had to dismount the transmission to get to the gasket. I got the car back and the transmission was messed up. Took it to a transmission shop and they told me that the transmission "cable" wasn't positioned correctly by whoever had done the work and they could fix it. They told me it was safe to drive it until my appointment. The engine was revving too high before changing gears and while driving home, I heard a loud rattling noise in the engine and my car stopped in the middle of the road. I'm told that a rod has broken inside the engine. My question is: can this in any way be related to the transmission cable not having been set/positioned correctly?
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I have a 1993 Caprice that was running great. The engine purred. We hD it sitting over the winter not driving it at all. Now when we go to drive it there is noise. It purs when you are just coasting, but when you put your foot on the gas there is a loud noise. This noise was not there before we let it sit. What can I do to quiet the engine again?
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I just got a 1985 Caprice Classic, V8 305. I sometimes have trouble starting it when the engine is cold. When I received the car from a family member, he gave me some spray for the carburetor. This does the trick, but I would like to fix it so that I do not have to resort to this.
The visor has some instructions for starting the engine. The directions say to depress the gas pedal once before trying to start, and 2x when it is very cold outside. I'm concerned that the car won't start at all when the winter comes.. Where should I start to troubleshoot this issue?
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My engine temp indicator shows overheat to the red line, however when I stop the car I can put my hand on the radiator cap and leave it there. No signs of any leaks anywhere. The top radiator hose on the drivers side is hot. Engine runs fine. Oil on dipstick clean. I can't find anything to back up my temp indication. What else I can look for? 1987 chev caprice classic brougm ls 5.o liter.
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