Caprice :: 1992 / 5.7 - Vehicle Suddenly Stopped / Fuel Pump Fuse Blown
May 13, 2014
I have a 92 caprice 5.7. Vehicle had suddenly stopped ... Providing fuel to the tbi. I immediately checked relays etc all were good. Then I figured it had to be the pump because I didn't hear the whirl of the pump with the key forward engine not cranking. I replaced the fuel pump. Still same problem no fuel. I found the 20 amp fuse blown that sits next to the 2 relays. I replace the fuse then the fuel pump got energized as I cranked the engine it almost started but then the fuse blew again. I have a short in the circuit I believe. I don't have a wiring diagram,what else is on the fuel pump circuit so I can have a direction to start in to find a probable bad wire.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2001 f350 dually diesel, I was driving it with no problem and all of the Sudden it die when I was checking the problem I not that the fuse for the diesel pump was blown immediately I replaced it and as soon I turn the key on it blew it right away I fol the wires from the pump to the fuse box and there is no wires grounding so maybe I can get a little bit of info to find the source of the problem
View 1 Replies
So the other day my 20amp maxi fuse for my fuel pump decided to blow, put a new one in & everything has been going good since. Is it just a fluke or is this an indication my pump is going out? I inspected wires off the pump & connections for corrosion & that's good, fuel filter is also new about 2 months ago & I always run #1 diesel with a little additive in the winter.
View 1 Replies
I drove my truck 2 times the day it stopped running. The 3rd time I tried to leave it started moved about 2 ft, spit and sputtered and died. It had blown the fuel pump fuse. I changed it and checked the fuel shut -off in the cab, passenger side. It was not tripped. Tried to start it and as soon as I turned the key it blew the fuse again. I changed the fuse again and this time I changed the fuel relay and the switch in the cab. Turned the key and it blew the fuse right away. Went to AutoZone because they are close to the house described what it was doing to them and they said sounds like a short in the fuel pump.
I purchased a new pump put it in turned key blew the fuse, pump just clicked...I found this site and my son noticed a thread where it said wires under the cab are good for wearing through and grounding out. I looked and it did wear through one wire coating. We taped it up, put extra cover over it and now it does not blow any fuses. Fuel pump still just clicked. Took fuel pump back for an exchange.....same thing. Turns over but fuel pump will not pump fuel. What am I missing?......
View 3 Replies
Performance problem Caprice royale 2005 LS1 Engine Gulf space V8 180000 KM its showing messages:
1 - Service Vehicle Soon
2 - Safety Mode - Reduced Performance
And could not go above 80kmh.
I Changed Throttle and fuel pump , spark plug but still same problem.
View 4 Replies
I have a '95 Chevy Caprice Classic 4.3L Sedan, and it cranks but does not start.This started happening after about a year of the car just sitting in the driveway. Before she sat for that year, she ran just fine.
I am under the impression that the problem is the fuel pump, it is NOT running when the ignition key is turned to the "on" position,this is very confusing because a volt meter placed on the connectors going directly into the pump motor shows 12+ Volts when the key is turned, for about 2 seconds, as it should, however the pump motor does not run. Also, I have already replaced the pump relay AND the entire pump assembly (though the pump I used as a replacement was also pulled from a junkyard vehicle).
The MOST confusing part is, when either of the fuel pump motors that I have are plugged directly into the car battery, they run just fine.
View 8 Replies
My 03 5.4 the obd2 port isnt working i have tried 4 bluetooth adapters and a snap on scanner and nothing will connect to the ecm. im having problems and trying to read codes my check engine light isnt on but that don't mean anything. my truck is running really rich and blows a little bit black smoke when i rev it up after its been idling a few min and getting horrible gas mileage again. yesterday i went to start it and i had to crank on it 4 time before it finally started and then when i reved it up it almost died on the way back down but it caught itself. then today i go out and it starts right up and runs fine but its still running rich but i still cant get an obd2 adapter to connect to the ecm. I checked the fuse and its not blown my cigarette plug and the power port both work. i really dont know where to start in trying to figure out this problem. Right now iI don't really want to take it to a shop right now.
View 4 Replies
I recently noticed that my car A/C was not blowing cold AT ALL. I checked under the hood and noticed that I didn't even get a "click" when someone turned the A/C on. Like a dweeb, I went out and paid $28 bucks for a replacement A/C Cutoff Switch (the round thing that gets seated in the oil in the compressor). I didn't first check the power to the switch like I should have (doh!). There is no power going through the wires to the switch and just a few microvolts of change on the meter when I turn the A/C on and off. So, no power to the compressor = no A/C. The problem is, I can't figure out where the damn wires go and there is no obvious fuse or relay that controls the power to the compressor.
-How much power should be going to the compressor?
-Where the power source is for the two wires (I think one is dark blue and the other light blue)?
-What fuse/relay controls the power to that switch?
-What are the next steps in repairing this issue?
I checked every fuse in the fusebox in the side of the dash and they are all good.
View 14 Replies
I have a 1992 GMC step side, short bed, 350 engine, Sierra, auto trans, factory air, factory exhaust, power steering.......
Three years ago the fuel pump went out. I have to work alone so I lowered the tank after draining and went through a lot of agony with floor jacks, supports, etc. but finally got the job done in 3 days.
The replacement was a Bosch fuel pump.
It went out today while I was at Sams stores. I got a pull home and it is in my driveway.
It started up once I got it home, but that is what it did the last time it went out, 3 years ago.
Question...should I check the ground first to make sure it is not getting intermittant ground or just do the job with a new pump?
Also, can I do this job by raising or sliding the bed after I unbolt it? I have heard war stories but no actual person that has done it.
Also, when moving the bed either up or sliding it back, isn't there a concern about wires that go to the tail lights?
I cannot afford the 500 dollar shop fee to have it towed and fixed.
View 6 Replies
I've been driving 93 ranger 3.0 4wd since last fall. first week I went to start and fuel pump relay had blown. I put a new one in and been driving since fine, till today. Now when I try to start, if it starts it will run fine all day as long as you don't turn it off. If you turn it off and restart half the times it will pop relay again. My fuel gauge has been stuck on full since I bought it also. I'm wondering if maybe pump has got had to start and drawing too much current...
View 3 Replies
My R32's Fuel Pump Fuse keeps blowing. This started after driving my car in a bad rainstorm. I think water may have gotten in the door which could be causing the short, but I am not sure. This car has two fuel pumps as it's been modified. I know for a fact the main fuel pump works as it did prime after replacing the fuse (then letting the car sit over night then opening the door). Right after the fuel pump primed though, the fuse blew. I decided to replace the fuse and start the car. The car started and ran for maybe a second or two before the fuse blew. I took a look at this thread in regards to the fuel pump not working as I thought the fuel pump was dead till today. I was wondering what are the possible problems that could be causing the fuse to blow? Could it be the relay? Could it be the switch in the door shorting? Also, where would I find the relay? I know it's under the dash, but is it under the panel on the passenger side or driver side?
View 1 Replies
I have a 2010 V-6 Camry that has been sitting for a couple years, changed the oil (what a system that is !) and was wondering the location of the fuse or the relay for the fuel pump is so I can crank the car over awhile to build up some oil pressure before I start it .
View 4 Replies
Which one is the Fuse for Fuel Pump on a 2014 VW Tiguan?
[IMG] [/IMG]
View 2 Replies
I have inherited a 1992 Ford Ranger 4.0 with an unusual problem. When the temp drops outside the truck will not crank. The relay is coming on for a sec or 2 to bring the system up to pressure but the pump never turns on. This happens every time the outside temp drops below 60. I can wait until later in the day or until a warm day, hit the key and drive it till it runs out of gas. A week later (and another cold front) and it is sitting dead in the front yard. I have traced the grounds, checked the power thru the relay (and replaced the relay too), but it still does this. What I want to know is am I the only one to ever run into this and if not then what is causing it. Pump shows no sings of trouble on a 70 degree day, even runs the proper pressure and volumes. I am stumped at this point and I am ready to try replacing the pump (though the one in it looks brand new). comments?
View 11 Replies
Ok so I just bought this car, 1993 pontiac grand am se, from a neighbor. When I test drove it, the back seat was all unscrewed so I thought no biggie and it drove really nice for being a 1993. Ended up buying the car. I get the car home, husband puts seats back together and we go to leave for town and the fuel pump fuse blew. Put a new one in, go to start the car, fuse blows again! Tow the car home. Husband checks the wires to make sure there is no faulty wires. Has to reground the ground wire. Car then starts. Go to drive down my driveway and the dang fuse blew again! Mind you there is a new fuel pump in the car so we know this isn't what is wrong with it.
View 4 Replies
Long story short, my car died on me shortly after pulling out of the driveway a few weeks ago. Initially I thought it was my fuel pump because it wasn't priming when I had the key turned to the "ON" position. Here's what I know for sure:
The fuel pump works. It was tested and is not the issue. The relay is good.
The fuse from number 28 is good. There isn't any power at the fuse. The shop has been tracing wires and looking at diagrams and cannot find any breaks in any wires.
The ECU has been swapped for another one. When I turn the key to the "ON" position, the check engine light and EPC light come on, then turn off after about 3 seconds. They do not stay on.
What else could it be? Car in question is an 01 Jetta 1.8T AWD motor code.
View 9 Replies
When I changed the alternator on my 2000 plymouth neon, I crossed the wires for the plug. Now the fuel pump fuse keeps blowing, when it turns over, which isn't often. I turn the key and nothing happens.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2000 F150 with @175K miles. Replaced the clutch about a year ago, replaced the front calipers a few weeks ago, due to the right front locking up on my way home from work. Since then, when I try to start, it blows the fuel pump fuse. (#10)...
View 2 Replies
I have a 1994 Ford Ranger king cab 4x4 with a three inch lift kit on it . My problem is the fuse is blowing that goes to the fuel pump . It started out blowing the fuse now and then when it was raining . Well I thought it mite be the fuel pump going bad but after I put the new pump in the truck it lasted about a week and started blowing fuses again . I put another fuse in and it go a few days and blow it . Last week on a 100 mile tripe I got almost there and it burned a fuse on the highway . I tried to put another fuse in and it would blow it as soon as I tried to start the truck . Burned five fuses right then . So I had it towed to mothers house and put another fuse in and it cranked up . I looked at the wiring that was not wrapped in that plastic cover stuff and have not found anything yet ...
View 14 Replies
Last summer the car would randomly overheat and we would switch the heater on and the temp needle would nose dive into normal range in 30 seconds. It made me think that maybe it wasn't really overheating.
This summer its started again. It gets almost into the red within minutes of driving it. There have been times where I turned and the needle went from almost the red zone to the normal range. Making me think its not overheating, but that nagging feeling tells me I need to know for sure.
The car will overheat within a few minutes. There were no visible leaks. I replaced upper and lower radiator hoses and refilled lost fluids. Driving it the first time, the upper radiator hose popped off and overheated. I initially thought it was the clamp being faulty so I bought a new clamp. Installed new clamp. Same thing. Same hose popped off again. Put it back on and its leaking fluid around the hose some how.
I know the lower hose has a coil in it to prevent collapse, should the upper too (haven't seen it collapse)? Why might it be leaking around the hose?
Next is the thermostat. That will be replaced this weekend. I'm pretty confident that it isn't the engine block cracked or a bad head gasket.
How should I remedy this hose issue and what course of action should I go for next? Water pump?
View 6 Replies
I've replaced the fuel pump, relay, drive module, and the filter. The fuel pump still refuses to switch on when I go to start the vehicle.
View 9 Replies
