Caprice :: 1985 Classic V8 Won't Start At All When Engine Is Cold
Sep 4, 2012
I just got a 1985 Caprice Classic, V8 305. I sometimes have trouble starting it when the engine is cold. When I received the car from a family member, he gave me some spray for the carburetor. This does the trick, but I would like to fix it so that I do not have to resort to this.
The visor has some instructions for starting the engine. The directions say to depress the gas pedal once before trying to start, and 2x when it is very cold outside. I'm concerned that the car won't start at all when the winter comes.. Where should I start to troubleshoot this issue?
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I put a new battery and the fuel tank is full but the car always has trouble starting. the other day i sat trying to start it, pumping the gas for 10 minutes or so. Nothing. I noticed some dripping under the car but it looked like coolant. Could this be something bigger? I have a new battery in. Do I have to go and start it every week and let it run for a few minutes? Any portable car jump start?
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Last summer the car would randomly overheat and we would switch the heater on and the temp needle would nose dive into normal range in 30 seconds. It made me think that maybe it wasn't really overheating.
This summer its started again. It gets almost into the red within minutes of driving it. There have been times where I turned and the needle went from almost the red zone to the normal range. Making me think its not overheating, but that nagging feeling tells me I need to know for sure.
The car will overheat within a few minutes. There were no visible leaks. I replaced upper and lower radiator hoses and refilled lost fluids. Driving it the first time, the upper radiator hose popped off and overheated. I initially thought it was the clamp being faulty so I bought a new clamp. Installed new clamp. Same thing. Same hose popped off again. Put it back on and its leaking fluid around the hose some how.
I know the lower hose has a coil in it to prevent collapse, should the upper too (haven't seen it collapse)? Why might it be leaking around the hose?
Next is the thermostat. That will be replaced this weekend. I'm pretty confident that it isn't the engine block cracked or a bad head gasket.
How should I remedy this hose issue and what course of action should I go for next? Water pump?
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Last year, around Jan/Feb, our temperatures dropped down to about -30F, and I had a weird issue where my brakes literally froze. I couldn't push them at all. I let the car sit for a few minutes, and started slowly pumping the brakes, and eventually got them freed up.
A few months later, the brake line going to the rear popped. I eventually got it replaced. Then a few months later, the front brakes started scraping and squealing, and so I replaced the front pads and calipers about two weeks ago.
Now, the other day I was slowing down to make a turn, and my brakes completely went out. When they did, I heard a pop from up by the engine. I pulled over, lifted the hood, and there was brake fluid covering my hood, abs unit, and a small amount on the engine.
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On my 86 caprice classic. the gas Gauge jumps to full when i turn the key even when car is started but its only like a gallon of gas in there is it the sending unit the ground or something else and is there any way to test it.
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For the last couple of years, I've noticed the air flow changes from the floor to the defroster under hard acceleration. Not a big deal. This morning (7 degrees) the airflow was changing under light to moderate acceleration. It's a vacuum problem, but is there anything in particular I should be looking at? The car is running fine, no issues with stalling or hesitation.
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Recently replaced the valve-stem seals, along with the head gasket in hopes that would fix this, but no change. It is my 1985 B2000 that (sometimes) emits Enormous amounts of whitish, lingering smoke on a cold-start, enough to hide a Sherman tank or two. So far, the best way to avoid the smoke is by Not engaging the auto-choke (not depressing gas pedal at all before starting) and let it warm up, even though it runs roughly for a about 5 mins., and then smooths out, but, with no smoke.
Oil use is less than 1/2Qt per 3K miles. The smoke does not have the usual oil smell - but not anti freeze either, (only water in system anyway). And it seems that letting the engine idle a bit Before shutting down avoid the smoke... Problem started about 2 years ago, and after fiddling with it all this time with no good results. Tho' I have considered possibly something maybe coming down a vacuum line...? but have no way to confirm.
MAZDA B2000 1985 5-SPD No Air 160K miles
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When start my Caprice (1986) carb-- I used to step on the gas pedal (half step is more than enough) to start the car.
Once the car started it's idling normally, but suddenly after 3 or 4 minute the sound of engine go high idling as if I stepped on the gas and that is remaining for long time even if I step full gas, and if I turnoff the the engine and pull out the key, the car will remain working hardly and shaking like crazy before it completely stop.
What is the problem with my 86 Caprice Brougham? is that problem easy to fix?
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I was riding my 1985 Monte Carlo SS down I-20 and the engine abruptly shut-off. The radio and all of the lights were still operating. I pulled over to the service lane and waited an hour for a tow truck. While waiting, I was constantly checking to see if the car would start. After an hour, the car started again and I went on my way. I left the car parked for about 5 hours and when I went to start it, the car started right up. After making it about a mile down the road, the engine shut-off again in the turning lane of a busy intersection. I wouldn't start again after that.
I had the car towed 30 miles to my home and left it sitting. I just changed the alternator, spark plugs, spark plug wires and battery, the car still won't start. I used all high-end parts, no cheap stuff. The battery meter is reading low, even with the new battery.
The has an aftermarket UNGO alarm system in it, which is "spidered" into the ignition system. This prohibits power to everything except the lights if the key isn't in the ignition.
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Got a problem that has left me in circles. 85 BMW 325e, manual. Won't start. Previously had some driveability problems, sporadic brief stalling. Using the key in ignition switch, starter spins the engine with no hint of a start.
1. IGN components all test to spec and during start attempt there is spark on all cylinders.
2. Fuel flow and pressure is within spec, both when FP relay is jumped and during start attempt.
3. Speed and reference sensors test good.
4. All inputs to dme have been tested, including power and grounds, and are good.
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I recently noticed that my car A/C was not blowing cold AT ALL. I checked under the hood and noticed that I didn't even get a "click" when someone turned the A/C on. Like a dweeb, I went out and paid $28 bucks for a replacement A/C Cutoff Switch (the round thing that gets seated in the oil in the compressor). I didn't first check the power to the switch like I should have (doh!). There is no power going through the wires to the switch and just a few microvolts of change on the meter when I turn the A/C on and off. So, no power to the compressor = no A/C. The problem is, I can't figure out where the damn wires go and there is no obvious fuse or relay that controls the power to the compressor.
-How much power should be going to the compressor?
-Where the power source is for the two wires (I think one is dark blue and the other light blue)?
-What fuse/relay controls the power to that switch?
-What are the next steps in repairing this issue?
I checked every fuse in the fusebox in the side of the dash and they are all good.
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5 Speed Manual in an 85 740 GLE Diesel. The overdrive does not engage until the car has been running 15 minutes or so. What causes this?
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So, until recently I had a 2000 Ford Focus but it was totaled in an accident not long ago and is long gone now. I was given a 1985 Toyota Tercel Wagon with about 194,000 mi by a family member. However, it has always had a problem whereby the brake pedal goes to the floor now and then and especially when it is cold in the morning. So, I took the car to a mechanic (hwy 64 auto, Raleigh, NC) and they replaced the Master Cylinder yesterday and bled the brake lines through the master cylinder.
The mechanic told me that the bleeder valves were too old and corroded to try to bleed them at each wheel and that they might break and then the caliper(s) would then have to replaced. Anyway, long story short, the brakes are WORSE after he changed the master cylinder and bled the lines from the master cylinder. Now EVERY time you first press the brake the pedal goes down then immediately you can "pump" them back up so either air in the lines or still a leak somewhere in the braking system. I do not want to spend anymore money (or at least very little money) on this car as too much has already been spent on other things before I got it and also after I got it.
Did the mechanic screw up or am I looking at a problem you have with some old cars where you start replacing parts in the brake system and then still have the problem or a new problem and then you wind up spending $800 replacing old crappy, worn out parts. What should I do? Did the mechanic screw it up or is it just time to send this old car to the scrap pile and crusher? Remember, I don't want to keep pouring money into this thing. I've already spent some money on it with other stuff lately.
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I drive an 05 Chevy Classic (that's an '04 Malibu made in '05), and it's never given me problems (though I've only had it about 2 years). This morning, I can't get it going. The engine turns over when I turn the key (though some of the time it takes several moments), but then as soon as I let go of the key, the engine dies. I tried giving it gas, but this doesn't seem to make a difference. After a couple of tries I noticed that the dashboard lights weren't coming on. They usually all light up while the starter runs, and I can at least get them to light most of the time when the key is turned to "on". None of this works. The power windows will open and close when I have the key turned to on, so the electrical system works somewhat.
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I have a 94 Caprice L99 4.3L V-8 won't start . Car has been sitting about a year with a full tank of gas. I parked it because I was having hard start no start issues during rainy or really humid weather assumed it was the opti distributor . The car would start after prolonged cranking. Saved up for parts now I have no fuel pressures at the Schroeder valve I pulled the fuel filter it was clear no fuel there with the key on. I can feel the relay click and hear the fuel pump cycle but only after I ( bump the starter ) but no fuel pressure.
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My dad has a 92 Caprice with a v8 in it. I couldn't tell the liters. It also has an automatic transmission. I went to start it to move it today and it cranked and cranked almost like it was empty on gas. It kept making the sound as if it was beginning to start and then it slows back down to just cranking and cranking. I'm thinking something fuel related.
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I got a caprice 94 l99 it was driving perfect. i was on my way home then it started to put put then the engine cut. gave it like 3 mins it started drove 1 block started to put then the engine cut. now doesnt start at all just cranks the gas gauge says it has 1/4 tank of gas.
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I have chevorlet caprice 2006 LTZ, whenever I switch off my car after running with AC on (means heat shows 50%) does not start. It simply cranks up but does not start,I try 3-4 times it starts, everything works fine . It starts perfectly in morning or after idle for long time. What stops the start, is it the fuel pump? I did computer scan but nothing detected.
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I have a 1993 Caprice that was running great. The engine purred. We hD it sitting over the winter not driving it at all. Now when we go to drive it there is noise. It purs when you are just coasting, but when you put your foot on the gas there is a loud noise. This noise was not there before we let it sit. What can I do to quiet the engine again?
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I am having problems with my 94 Caprice. It will start right up when cold. After driving for awhile (not too long) then engine cuts off. Electric power is on but the engine is off (like it ran out of gas, or the gas was shut off). At first, it would take a few minutes for the engine to restart. Now that I have replaced the Fuel Pump Relay, it will start right back up, but when driving it still cuts off.
Could it be the ECM? Where is it located? Is it a "do-it-yourself" job?
What other problems might it be (besides the fuel pump)? Could it be the power distribution box under the hood? I also have fog lamps hooked up to the panel that wont work. The switch light comes on but the lamps do not. I am going to try to hook the (+) up to the battery and see if the lamps get power, if so, the box is fried (or the stud) But if the main power distribution wasnt working would the car still run, start? If the stud is damaged would it cause the gas to shut off?
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I have a 2004 Malibu Classic well maintained 2.2 L engine 20k miles. When the engine is warm in drive at idle, the engine shudders vibrates the dash and steering wheel. It idles smooth when cold. In drive it settles to a base idle about 575-600 RPM. When I raise the RPM with the peddle just a bit maybe 50 RPM it idles perfect. Otherwise the engine runs perfect, air cleaner and plugs are like new. Is there any way to adjust the idle up or identify what sensor controls the idle?
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