Caprice :: 1983 - Transmission Not Engaging Drive Gears
Apr 23, 2016
My transmission had no slipping was running fine . Oil level was ok , recently added 1/2 quart , cause it has some small leaks. I go to drive away other day and none of the drive gears or reverse would engage. Mechanic thinks transmission locked up . Kind of hard to condemn my old baby considering it was running fine .
Would the TCC solenoid do this or the ECU ? I recently reinstalled the bar going to starter that was disconnected for 5+ years because i was having slow crank issues. This transmission problem occurred 2 days later. I am thinking it might have made the ECU unit go bad , since the starter had not a good ground for so long ?
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Last night transmission in my beloved '89 Caprice Wagon let go, it slips completely in all the forward gears. I was coming down a long hill using low gear for several minutes and when I put it back into OD at the bottom it seemed to skip a little but it was still making power well enough. I got off the freeway at my exit and stopped at a red light, when the light changed I was revving high but barely creeping through the intersection. I pulled over and this is what I figured out:-All the forward gears make essentially no power any more.-Reverse seems to work normally.-The fluid is at a normal level and not discolored or burnt smelling.
I don't know if this is related or just an amazing coincidence but the water pump also seems to have blown the gasket at the same time. I must have just happened within a few minutes of me pulling over because there was still a ton of coolant left and the temp was still in the normal range. I don't see how they're related but, like I said, the timing is too coincidental. Earlier this week but just a few miles ago I also topped the power steering fluid and oil.
It's a 200-R4 transmission, is it toast? Why does reverse work but all the forward gears slip completely? Is the water pump just a red herring? I did drive the rest of the way home in reverse.
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Ok, the swap is all done and I have an engine in the truck that has compression in more than (7) cylinders.
2002, 7.3, 4wd - ~120k miles on trans. Fresh fluid (Mercon V).
Put the gear selector in reverse and it goes right into gear with the normal tug and functions as it should. Put it in low gear and it also appears to work fine. But, when selecting '2' or 'drive' it feels almost like its engaging 2 gears at once?? There is limited forward motion and it feels like the brakes are on. I have not driven further than the driveway yet, but I have a long driveway...
The OD light does not come on. I am not getting any codes from AE, but I really don't know how to use it for transmission stuff (I've been using a different scan tool that I no longer have).
We have not put the bed on the truck, so no tail lights - but 3rd brake light has new bulbs and was working (didn't check this AM though... )
I have a couple other codes, CEL, 'check gauges' and no tach. Gonna start another thread for those issues, I'll put a link here in case its related.
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I recently bought 2007 ES 350 drove @700+ miles, 2 times I had this incident in this week, the latest is today. In cold morning when I try to drive the vehicle when it is cold when I pull the lever to drive mode the accelerator increases the RPM but the car is not rolling or I should say very very snail pace, so I tried pushing the lever back to park, then reverse drive the vehicle and then engage to drive mode it works fine but I hear lot of fan sound. For initial few min I feel that it is not picking up much speed but then it becomes normal. It really tensed me. What action can be taken to resolve this?
As per the Autocheck report this was manufactured in Jun 2006 and the vehicle service records from Lexus web there is no sign of any transmission problem or fix to transmission. The car has 100K+ miles on it.
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2004 Dodge Stratus 80K... What happened is my check engine light came on maybe 6 months ago and I took it to have it looked at and they were closing but the guy told me don't worry about it and I be ok until I come back and it probably wasn't a big deal. The light went off a day or two so I didn't worry about it. It came on about a week ago and I haven't had time to take it in yet. So here is the chain of events-
Check engine light (6 months ago approx)Check engine light off (couple days later)
Check engine light (1-2 weeks ago)
Put my car in drive, transmission didn't engage right away. I thought I had it in neutral by mistake. then it engaged.(about a week ago)
Same thing happened last night except it took longer for it to kick in and when I ran into the store and came out, it backed up ok but wouldn't go in drive right away. I thought it was because it was freezing) out and maybe needed to warm up better. (we had a terrible ice storm here in Washington).
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So i have this Porsche and is been passed down and how to fix it like battery and everything is nice i mean I'll work on engine next but the actual stick that changes gears can actually pop out and i mean i can still change gears it's just is there a way to make the stick stay in there.
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My car is in great condition. 70,000 miles and I am the second owner. Every time I take it to a mechanic they can't believe how good the engine looks. But there is a mystery problem. I have been dealing with what seems to be an air leak or pressure issues. After driving for a while the car has a lazy start after a stop. The first few gears seem to not catch. If fells like there is a block in a line and it's trying to push through air or fuel to get to the 3rd gear. I have noticed on colder days the timing belt screeches a bit. When in high altitudes this problem is worse! After my last oil change they noticed a leak. Also the dipstick for my transmission fluid is broken. Although I check it regularly and that seems to be just fine. I want to get to the bottom of this!
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Ok so my transmission feels loose, too much play between the coast and drive side of the gears. Makes enough noise now that my wife complained about it so I'm looking into taking it to the dealer. I pretty much expect them to pass this off and do nothing, but its getting worse especially in the last couple of months.
Noticed a lot of play in there gearbox? Can you hear the gears make noise as they shift from coast to drive side?
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I recently bought my grandfather's old F-150, its a 1983 model with the 351w and the 7200VV carb. I replaced the distributor cap & rotor, plugs, wires, and fluids. The truck idles just fine in park/neutral, but when I shift it into reverse or drive, it stalls out. There is a valve of some kind attached to the carburetor, and it opens and closes rapidly as the truck dies (in time with its sputtering) so I think it may be the cause of the problem. I have not been able to find much info on that carburetor, but I think that valve is a fuel temperature system that meters the amount of fuel going to the carb depending on is temp. Can I replace that part without having to replace the whole carburetor?
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I was driving my car to a local GTG the other night and about 3/4 the way there i went to go put it first and it wouldn't go into any gear .... I summed it up to being either the tranny the clutch or the linkage....
My only clue is that i can rotate the shift knob in a circular motion.... the clutch petal still feels normal ... and under the hood when you try to move the linkage manually into gear the side to side part hits the motor mount (metal to metal)....
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83' Toyota Celica GT with an automatic transmission. The problem that we are having is that we can't get it to turn over. All it wants to do is click at us. As far as we both can tell all cables and wiring harnesses are plugged in and there aren't any loose wires. We've had the alternator and starter checked and they both passed. Also there is a new battery with new terminals installed so that's not going to be the problem. In all of the reading that I've done I keep hearing about a neutral start switch. What is it? And where is it located? I believe I've found a spot where it should be but there isn't anything there. And we've put all of the parts in the car back where they go.
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My dad has a 92 Caprice with a v8 in it. I couldn't tell the liters. It also has an automatic transmission. I went to start it to move it today and it cranked and cranked almost like it was empty on gas. It kept making the sound as if it was beginning to start and then it slows back down to just cranking and cranking. I'm thinking something fuel related.
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Its a good runner. It has lots of get-up-N-go until you get to 45-mph. Then it just loses interest.
It's a 1983 Ford F-150 King Cab Short Box with a 302? V8, a 5 speed manual transmission, 2 wheel drive & a heavy towing package complete with low speed rear end, over-load springs & a 800 tongue Weight rear bumper. It has about 116,000 miles (long haul miles) on it.
The previous owner said it had had this problem before, and new spark plugs fixed it. I don't know, but it seems more like a fuel or vacuum problem. It behaves just like one of those rental truck governors. Plenty of power up to a preset RPM, then blah.
A mechanic I know said it may be a RPM limit switch in the transmission that prevents over revving the engine. Is he talking straight?
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I am having an issue with my transmission. Mine will not accelerate when in reverse, at all. When I take off in overdrive, the car revs up really high until about 30mph and then finally shifts and seems to drive normal at about 45-65mph,after that the car revs really high up to about 70mph (then i slow down). No problems with gear 1 and 2.
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So I am on my way home after an honest 8, and I make it a mile down the road and goose the old girl a little off a stop light. Well next thing I know we have smoke rolling out under the hood, well it turns out the "smoke" was r134 refrigerant. The guy that recharged it said that the compressor failed and that its common with retrofits because 134a runs at a higher pressure.
Now I don't need a/c, and I might just leave it as is, but it would be nice to have the old girl working 100%. It also turns out that the front seal of the transmission is leaking, I am debating whether or not to just have the transmission rebuilt. it shifts fine but its gotta come out anyway. Its a 700r4 and the trans guy recommends stronger 3-4 clutches and a shift kit to make the holding pressure higher.
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I just noticed the 4 wheel drive on my 2000 Chevy S10 doesn't seem to be engaging. The traction doesn't get any better turning it on and the other day I got stuck on a hill and the back wheels weren't spinning. What I can check or look at to fix it?
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2010 Prius 52K miles... Not engaging in Drive or Reverse, Engine is not starting either. Got Message - Put in park , All the lights are ON , in the Dash .
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I have read through the folders and many websites on 4x4 problems. My problem has to deal with my four wheel drive not wanting to engage. It has nothing to do with the front end or solenoids. When I put it into 4x4, hi or low it will not send any power to my transfer case motor. It wont even illuminate any lights on the selector switch. I have checked all fuses and replaced any relays that have to do with the 4x4. Where I should go with this?
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I'm having a problem with my 2009 Subaru Forester.
When I start the car from "cold" (i.e., it hasn't run in several hours, regardless of the actual temperature), the automatic transmission cannot engage drive for several minutes. I can shift the car, and reverse functions normally. When shifting, I can feel the car engage reverse, and feel it shift into neutral, but when I shift from neutral to drive, I can't feel it engage. I can rev the engine, and it will just act as if it is still in neutral. I also cannot use sport mode to manually get the car into gear. After a few minutes (3-4), the car will engage drive. However, at least initially, it still seems to be pretty rough, with a few times where it will rev as if it's half in neutral, and then jump a little. Once it does get going, it settles down and is fine.
I took it to the dealer, but wasn't able to leave it over-night, so they couldn't get the problem to re-engage. They inspected the car, thought that the shift cable was a little stiff, so they took it off, lubed it, and put it back (they recommended replacement, but didn't have the part in stock). The next morning, the problem repeated itself, so it certainly appears that the cable is not the issue. The dealer checked the transmission fluid and said that was all fine.
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I have a 2005 F-150 with ESOF. When I turn the switch to 4x4 or 4low the lights on the dash will turn on but the front tires will not turn. I checked all the fuses and they were good. I'm not very familiar with this 4x4 system, what the issue is or on how to fix it?
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I have a 2004 6.0 with the 5L110 transfer and torqueshift transmission. While test driving after installing everything, I didn't get 7 ft down the road and the tires locked up and she came to a dead stop. Now I only have reverse but I can still feel the tranny engaging into drive but will not move.
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