I've had this problem with my 08 v6 camry se recently: when i first start my car and stop at a stop light my transmission will seem to disengage or not switch gears properly resulting in me redlining and not being able to accelerate properly. shortly after everything returns back to normal and the problem goes away on its own never to return until i begin the process all over again.
View 5 RepliesMy 2004 Camy XLE 4 cyl has developed an intermittent problem. So far this has only happened after the car has sat in the sun at my office for the day and the temp is around 90. When I begin to take off the transmission disengages intermittently and the engine light comes on. After a couple of miles the problem stops, but the engine light stays on. Usually the light goes off the next day.
I have had the car to dealer. First time reset code P0500 and problem returned. Second time, dealer found update for engine control module. "performed to reflash ECM per TSB 0072-04.
I recently purchased a 2005 Camry XLE V6 (100K miles). Its in great condition and no issues except I am observing this:
-> When I come to stop (like at a stop sign), just before coming to complete stop, there is a slight forward jerk. When I come to stop slowly and smoothly, there is no problem.
the faster I come to stop the more severe is the jerk. I tried to search for answers on the web, one possibility is bad solenoid in the transmission.
Bought the Camry new in May 2006. Besides the oil hose leak (which a recall fixed), it's been a perfect car.
Fast forward to the present. I needed a brake job, so my master mechanic buddy installed front and rear powerslot rotors and akebono performance pads and flushed my brake fluid. No problems with the brakes.
A few weeks later I wanted to treat my car to a 90K full transmission flush (it's first transmission service). I had it flushed at a local toyota independent shop. They used WS fluid. A few hours later, my transmission which shifted perfectly fine before the flush started shifting weird. I thought the computer had to relearn my wife's driving style. When she brakes hard (if she's going 50 and the light turns yellow and she brakes hard, her car slows down normal, but right before it comes to a complete stop is when the car shakes. She said it started right after the transmission flush.
A few days later when she was at a red light, the car check engine lit up with a check battery (she thinks that's what it said on the screen). When the light turned green, it wouldn't accelerate, but it would roll forward when you let go of the brakes. When she got to a safe place to park/stop she turned off the car. A few minutes later she turned the car back on and it was fine.
I told that to one of my buddies who had something similar happen to him in his 06 Mustang GT, the Ford dealer cleaned his throttle bottle and maf sensor and he was on his way. I had my throttle body and maf cleaned. Now with new brakes, new brake fluid, a flushed transmission, a clean throttle body and maf, I thought everything was good.
On the freeway , the car would not shift to 4th gear or higher. So I exited the freeway, drove the surface streets to a independent Toyota shop. Left the car there all day, they could not find anything wrong. So, right now everything is back to normal except the shaking when you are almost at a complete stop, which started AFTER the transmission flush, what that might be?
To describe the shaking problem, imagine I'm driving 45-50, light turns yellow, I slow down, 50-20 is fine, maybe even 50-15 is fine, but the car shakes right before it fully stops.
I've noticed that when I'm coasting to a stop and my speed gets to about 27 MPH, the transmission downshifts (RPMs increase) until I reach about 22 MPH. I'm not applying the brakes at the time.
It's a bit annoying as it sometimes bleeds off just enough speed that I need to accelerate to reach the point I was planning to stop at. Is this normal?
My 02 Camry(auto tranny) just started shift hesitating after a stop or on a turn. Engine revs and then slowly grabs. After that, does everything fine as far as normal shifting is concerned(up and down through the other gears). Fluid level is full after a change out last month.
I bought this car used this year and the tranny fluid was dark brown. Didn't smell burnt, but compared to other fluid I've seen looked roasted or old. Like it had never been changed. This Camry has 150K.
So, do i have a transmission issue or has a sensor gone bad?
I have a 04 lariat f150. Problem is every time I stop at a light or stop sign I hear and feel a bump. Coming from the rear I guess . Had my truck aligned asked the alignment person about the situation he said ford just do that. True or false ...
View 2 RepliesSo I took my car in for the recall last night and also told my service advisor that my transmission has been a bit jerky lately. Kind of felt like the clutch was slipping when you start going from dead stop, and clunk here, clunk there.
After their diagnostics it seems to be the Mechatronics unit, apparently about 50% of our cars had the issue. The part would have to be ordered from VW due to it being made per VIN and is on back order. They didn't have the reacall parts in stock so I had to leave my car there. Stuck in a bright red Jetta now.
Any potential issues to the transmission if always shifting the gearbox to "N" when waiting at a stop light? I noticed the car idles a lot more smoother when at N so would I'm hoping to to do this regularly if it won't hurt the transmission.
View 5 RepliesI have 2001 ford taurus the transmission went out on me -as i started from stop light the transmission sounded like it was going into gear all the way I let off the gas and it went into gear this happened a few more times until i got on interstate and when i interstate no problems at all with transmission then I pulled off to go home and mre stop lights it acted same way then after a few more lights i gave it the gas from stop light and no forward gears i do have reverse is a sensor bad ...
View 15 RepliesI have a 1996 escort wagon with strange auto transmission behavior. Sometimes during the summer months but mostly during the winter; the transmission will start off in 3rd gear from a stop and won't go any higher or lower. If I drive it around for a while, it will suddenly shift into 4th then the transmission will act normally for a while then for no reason will just suddenly start off in 3rd gear from a dead stop. It has been doing this for about 8 months now. 146k miles. I have tried shifting through all the gears manually. It will drop down into first when I put the lever there, but when I move the lever back up into drive, it goes right back into 3rd.
View 1 RepliesThis morning I was playing around with my 2010 Prius "B" mode - I realize today that when the Prius CVT is in "B" mode the Prius ICE won't turn off even when it is at a complete stop -- instead the ICE runs/idles at a 996 RPM / .20-.40 GPH while stopped in traffic. The coolant temperature (@190F ) doesn't matter, Battery State of Charge (54% soc) doesn't matter. To re-enable the stop-start idle technology - I had to switch the Prius CVT back to "D" mode. I end up burning a bit more fuel on this trip because it took me a while to realize that I was in "B" mode and that the stop start idle technology had disabled in the "B" mode ...
View 4 RepliesWe have a 1992 Toyota Camry which runs great except that it stalls at every stop light. We have had the engine, distributor, coil, coolant temperature sensor; computer, and EGR valve checked. Yesterday the mechanic stated there was nothing wrong with the EGR Valve, what to check next?
View 2 RepliesI disconnected the battery yesterday and once I connected it back the car felt like it was gonna turn off and ever since when I'm in a stop it starts shaking. Is their anyway to fix the idle time ....
View 7 RepliesThis is my brother's 02 SE. 140k miles. 4cyl. He claims that the car is beginning to idle rough when he is stopped at a stop light and the AC is on. If i replace the spark plugs should that do it? I'm pretty sure it doesn't have spark plug wires cus that's what my dealer parts dept said. Motor mounts were replaced around 70k if that matters. The vibration is directly related to the AC being on.
I am also going to replace the serp. belt because there's a belt squeak when the motor is cold.
Rear brake light doesn't come on on the right side only when braking.
However, when I press on remote buttons to lock or unlock the car doors, all the rear bulbs light up including the rear right stop light bulbs so I don't think this is light bulb or socket issue. I checked the stop, alt, and Haz fuse and they're all good. what else I should check?
I also checked TAIL fuse, and that wasn't it. Car is Toyota Camry Standard 2006
I have a 2012 SE I4 with 500 miles on it. I have noticed that while sitting at stop lights, the car vibrates slightly and I can feel it on the seat since day 1. It gets better if the AC is on. I would expect that when stopped and sitting at a stop light, the car should idle smoothly and not notice the engine. If I put in N or P, I don't feel the engine running at all either through steering wheel or the seat. Is it normal? It is really annoying me since the car is less than a week old.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1988 Toyota Camry. I was driving to work this morning, the car was driving fine. After about 10 mile or so, I stopped at a red light, when the light changed the car wouldn't accelerate it seemed to have a really bad hesitation. If i let off the gas it would idle fine, none of the warning lights are on. However, when I give it more gas the car doesn't have any power at all. It has plenty of gas in it and the exhaust has no signs of any oil or water in it. I was thinking it may be a bad fuel filter or a tank of bad gas.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 Buick Century that only has 70000 miles on it. I have an issue that when I drive the car for a while, the transmission will shift hard after stopping at a light or stop sign. It only does it through the first three gears. If I shut the car off and let it sit for a few minutes and start it back up, it shifts fine through all of the gears. I have not had the change to change the fluid and filter yet. The fluid looks clean and is always full. I have read that there has been a common problem with a pressure control solenoid in the transmission needing replaced to correct the hard shifting. I am not getting any kind of error codes from the PCM, so I am not sure.
View 4 RepliesI just bought a 98 f150 about a month ago from someone. The guy i bought it from said the tranny had been rebuilt about 4 months prior and i have the invoice proving it. I have lately noticed a hard shift from first to second gear, all other gears shift perfectly, but on my way from work toady the tranny seemed to slightly slip out of gear(in other words the rpms didn't shoot up, just loss of power) when accelerating from a stop light, and then it seemed to catch and started shifting ok. my question is given these symptoms is it possible that i can make this tranny last a little while longer or is it about to quit? any possible causes?
View 4 RepliesI have an intermittent electrical problem that I thought was the alternator but my mechanic says isn't. Every now and then the sound system will start rebooting and the heater fan may stop and start.
Normally voltage across the battery is about 13.8v or more. At times the car changes into the error state which continues until the car is restarted. It may then or may not re-enter the problem state.
When the car is in the state where the radio re-starts, the voltage across the battery drops to around 13.2v. The two big fans on the radiator start and stop according to the thermostatic control. It is this startup that causes the radio to restart etc. I got one flash on my multimeter of a drop to 12.8v across the battery on the start. This would be due to extra draw to start the fan motors and is usually too fast for my multimeter to react to.
Entering problem state might happen once a month. It seems more likely on long trips and is so intermittent it is hard to diagnose. Its start coincided with the replacement of the head unit with an after market one. I have checked repeatedly for loose wires behind that unit that are shorting out, now I am thinking it is somewhere in the charging circuit.