Camry :: Speedometer Was Getting Slower And Slower
Oct 1, 2013
I drive a 94 camry xle with the 5sfe motor. It stipped working on while i was going down the interstate. Before it stopped, i notice that the speedometer was getting slower and slower. So i pulled off to the side of the road and before i was able to stop and get it in park, it quit. Smoke was rolling out but it was like a white clear smoke. When i got it home, i tried starting it and it sound like the compression on the cylinders was way out.
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Speedometer, that is. My GPS shows 3-4 MPH slower than my speedometer does. Is there an adjustment?
2010 XLE w/2.5
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A month or two ago I noticed my car starting to turn over a bit slower. Then finally woke to car that would not start. I tapped on the starter and it turned over. I took the car to local AutoZone store, tested the electrical system while the car was running...Starter - Good, Alternator - Good, Battery had a few dead cells. I also took out the alternator and starter to have them bench tested. Both passed. So I put everything back and got a new battery. Seemed to have fixed the problem for a couple weeks. Then today go out to start the car and the same thing. Car won't turn over...pop the hood a little tap on the starter and it turns over just fine. Same cycle all day...Turn off car, then wont turn over unless I tap the starter. So I take it out again, and take it to the local auto store...Starter passes again.
It seems like it must be the Starter if the tap works, but I thought the bench tests were pretty accurate? All the cables and connectors look to be in really good shape and if it were the Starter Relay, Alternator, or Battery I wouldn't think that tapping the Starter would make any difference.
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Planning to take the 14.5 Camry in later next week. I've noticed the passenger window goes up/down considerably slower than the other 3. I know it's not specific to the passenger window, but have you guys experienced any given window quite slower than the rest? I don't think it's wear and tear since I have no passengers 85% of the time. Wonder if warranty still covers it within 2 years..
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Lately, I have noticed the idle on the R to be a little lower than normal and it is fluctuating with the AC on. The plugs were done about a year and 10,000 miles ago with OEM NGK iridium, along with the rest of the 80,000 mile maintenance items. I have no engine faults and religiously use Shell 93. The engine has the UM ECU/DSG [spark cut] tune with Milltek engine-back exhaust [no cats/resonator]. Is there something that I am missing that may be the culprit? I need to pull the plugs and check them because with any idle issue I usually suspect plugs but have never had an issue with plugs failing this soon.
Related topic; what spark plugs are people having good luck with the UM combo tune?
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at any speed they are much slower than normal... what can cause this? bad relay, motor, ???
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Driving down the road in my 2001 Jetta GLX VR6 and I slow down as i approach a red light. As I get slower I notice a repetitive clicking sound, i apply my brakes and it stops. So now Im curious so Im driving around doing about 20mph trying to find out what the hell this sound is. I know two things! Its coming from my drivers side front, and when I apply my brakes it stops. It clicks driving straight, turning, coasting with the car in neutral. My steering rack just blew out on me, so driving around with no powering steering and I have a click. I am not troubleshooting all day tomorrow. I don't have any vibrations, or what not.
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I recently left my car parked at a park and ride over the holiday weekend while traveling to visit some family, and when I returned the car would not start as quickly as it had been prior to me leaving it. The car is an '03 with about 165k miles on it, battery replaced about two years ago. I do travel quite often for work, but have never noticed a drop off in crank time until this past weekend.
I did have the serpentine belt changed almost three months ago. (not saying that is in any way related to my current issue, just giving a bit of history on car maintenance). What I should have checked, (starter, battery, etc)? Should I not leave the car idle for more than a couple of days with such high miles on the engine?
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I just installed an Injen intake to my Sonata 2.0T, but now it doesn't feel as quick off the line. It sounds incredible but idk.. just feels a little sluggish now..
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Any fix for the driver side window rolling up slower than the passenger side. Sounds like the motor is having a harder time moving it. I can hear the motor straining. Looking for info about successfully lubricate the regulator and fix this? I'd like not to have to replace the motor.
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OK, when I first got the car in June it needed strut mounts so I got the 034's and new bearings and all was good, recently I noticed just a creaking/knocking type noise, not the same as before. So I checked the bolts on the mounts just in case and they are good. Been reading lately about the subframe and it is leading me to believe that may be it. The noise is more noticeable at slower speeds when just going over slight road imperfections(like small dips) and sometimes I do not hear it at all even over rough roads?
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My drivers side window hates the cold, getting slower as the temperature drops. When it's real cold it gets to the point where it only goes up a fraction of an inch and stops, then I have to wait a minute and try again. I find that grabbing it and pulling while I hit the switch works a little. So I've researched the problem a bit. Don't think the rails need silicone lube as some suggest. I've seen one guy tap the window motor with a screwdriver, and a post about somehow getting to the brushes and cleaning them. I'm thinking just replace the motor, but it seems odd that it's temperature related.
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Brakes are too agressive on the Passat 3.6L 4Motion? Seems like the initial application, especially at slower speeds is too jerky. You have to be very soft on the pedal so as to not get your passengers hit the dash...
While you do want brakes that grab, I think that the modulation needed is beyond most drivers talent in order to execute a smooth stop without jerking.
I track my other car, so I'm familiar with brake modulation and race pads but again for a normal driver, this does not seem normal. The Audi A6 Bi-turbo is much smoother.
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I have a 2001 excursion limo with 108,000 its a v-10 2 wheel drive with stock wheels and tires. I believe both my front hub bearings are going out, I am hearing some grinding at slower speeds and while turning, but seems to be ok at highway speeds...Anyway I think I am going to replace both front hub bearing assemblies.
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My drivers window gets progressively slower the further down it goes. Does this seem like motor is shot? Can you open window motor case and rebuild it like the older ford window motors?
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It's a metal on metal rattle sound when I'm going slower speeds and paved residential streets that are a little rough. passenger front is where it seems to be coming from. I can almost know when it's going to do it when I'm coming up on a rough spot on the road. super frustrating. Started noticing if after my mechanic replaced both front springs when my driver side spring broke. Took it back to him and he couldn't hear it and made sure everything was tight. What it could be. Thought maybe stabalizer link but not sure how to tell if it's bad.
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When I gently apply the brakes at slower speeds there is a single "click" noise. This happens every time. I took it to the dealer. They said it was normal. I am just trying to find out if indeed it is. Do other people get this click when they apply the brakes.
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When driving my 2003 Volvo XC70, it sounds as if I am driving on nobby mud tires. The sound (rrrrrrrrrrrr) gets faster and slower with the cars acceleration and deceleration. I know that the sound isn't caused by the tires because I am running on Micheline Harmony tires which are fairly quite. I am concerned that it may be a gear going bad.
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Front end noise in 2006 Sonatas? I would refer to this as a creaking noise heard inside the vehicle while going slower...such as in parking lots and neighborhood driving. Sounds to be from the strut area to me. Going to try to take into dealership next week. Seems like right after i got the rear suspension noise fixed (Replaced struts) then i hear the front end making noise.
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My 87 lesabre has run great for many years, but lately, it has been quitting on me. It happens randomly, usually while driving slower or idling. It just suddenly quits almost as if it's out of gas. It usually starts right back up, sometimes have to wait 20-30 seconds. It runs fine, not sluggish or anything, up until it quits. Had a couple mechanics look at it, when I told one about it he thought for sure it was going to be the fuel injectors but they all checked out fine.
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I have a 2007 volvo S40 T5 AWD with 25,000 miles. When driving at slower speeds and I let off the gas, I hear a "clunking" noise similar to driving over a lose manhole cover. The car makes a very slight jerk as well. I notice this as well between 2nd and 3rd gear, but not just then. I am thinking transmission problem, but don't know and want some info before heading to the dealer.
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