i went to open my moonroof the other day and i noticed it slammed down shaking the whole headliner then rolling backwards like normal. only thing i've done to it recently was put a thin layer of grease on the rubber seal so it would stop making so much noise from the body flex; it tilts with no problem and my radar detector is very loud.
[URL]...
I have a 2014 Camry and the other day i went over a 15Mph speed bump while going a little over 20, after the front end went over the bottom of the car BANGED on the bump.. Now I don't know if it was the frame that hit or something on the bottom Like the gas tank and its stressing me out. I checked to see if there are any leaks but didn't see anything.. Is the gas tank vulnerable to things like this or is it high up and protected?
View 1 RepliesI just had a rental for the new corolla, and noticed that the moonroof rolls out immediately after you press the button.
On my 2012 camry, i would have to hold the button for it to roll out, otherwise more often than so, i hold the button and it takes a while to act on that i press the button. (or doesn't even roll)
This would be covered under warranty right?
2008 Camry SE V6 with sunroof ticking / creaking / moonroof structure noise. Car has 50K miles on it. Has been in 1 slight driver side scrape accident but no crunching. Dealer says it's about 6.5 hrs labor to fix since my car is way passed the 3 year 36,000 mile warranty. TSB doesn't extend it at all.
TSB is T-SB-0088-12
The Up/Down switch on my 2012 Camry SE doesn't work half the time. Of course it works when opening it, but half the time won't work when closing it. I called today to order a new switch and the dealer told me they do not sell just the switch and I had to purchase the entire overhead console?
Can I purchase the switch only. Just to clarify there are 2 switches. The left switch is Open/Close and the right switch is Up/Down.
I own an 06 camry se with a factory moonroof. moonroof slides open fine but when i slide it closed it does not tilt the back of the glass up to make it level with the roof; also when i use the tilt function it doesn't pop up as much as it used to. Should i take it to the dreaded dealer?
View 9 RepliesI slammed my door shut and now it wont open from inside or outside, I pulled the door panel off the top and took as many card bolts out as I could and pried the card to check things out, seems like everything is working the same as the passenger door which I could get completely apart for comparison. Cables are attached and both handles move the mechanism, the lock and unlock seem to be working, the handles move free and easily but don't seem to catch anything. How can I get this door open to take the mechanism out?!?
View 2 RepliesI got up to a cold, 25 below, morning... Went out to find 2 Phaetons that had to be left out overnight, SLAMMED!
They were both low ridas. I started them up easily, but no inflation of the suspension. Too Low Warning light on both dashes.
I drive a 1997 GMC Jimmy, with 250k miles (all mine). So, I had to have my transmission rebuilt, and the second time I picked it up (we won't talk about the first time) I drove it for a couple of days, and was leaving an icy parking lot, and put it in 4hi. I had it in gear at the time, but wasn't moving at all, and simply pushed the button. It made a grinding sound, then slammed into 4wd. I dropped it off the next day (again), and was told that I cannot put it into 4hi on the fly, that I shouldn't be doing that at all, that when you have a transmission rebuilt, you shouldn't ever do that again.
Given all of the trouble I've had with this highly advertised local transmission shop, I'm not inclined to believe a thing they say- So, I'm asking you all; When I had my transmission rebuilt, did I in fact lose the ability to put into 4hi while vehicle is in gear- let alone moving? I'm not talking about 4lo here, I know I have to be completely stopped and in neutral for that, even my manual says I can go into 4hi safely up to speeds of 45 mph. I still haven't picked it up from the last time I took it in, I didn't have any trouble with 4wd before the transmission rebuild. The first time I picked it up, my driveshaft fell out.
Today I was on a highway traveling at 60 miles an hour. There were no cars in front or on either side and nothing on the road. My foot was on the accelerator and not on the brake. Suddenly the seat belts pulled very tight (I believe that is called "pre-tensioning") and the brakes slammed on without any input from me. The car rapidly decelerated to about 30 miles an hour. Fortunately there was nobody tailgating me. After that everything seemed OK. My vehicle is a 2013 Prius v (lowercase v for the Prius v wagon) model 5 which has the technology package.
I took the car to the dealer and they checked the collision avoidance system and said they could not find a problem. The service manager said he has a Camry and it has happened to him once. They had never heard of it happening on a Prius. Apparently Toyota has a bulletin about this for the Camry, but not the Prius. They suggested I turn off the Collision Avoidance System with a switch that is under the dash.
I am not sure whether to turn it off because if I do I lose the adaptive cruise control and collision avoidance, If I leave it on this can happen again possibly causing an accident.
My wife and I purchased our 2005 Chrysler 300 Limited in May 2004.Our 300 has over 117,00 miles as of May 2011. It has been a rather dependable automobile.I have enjoyed it almost as much as my HD. We have performed maintenance as close to the schedule as possible.
I failed to drive the car as often as our second car is an used 2002 S430 which had been my primary auto until about two months. My niece and nephew reported to my wife that the car was not "doing something right". No one could really explain, so I had drove the vehicle myself to determine the issue. The transmission had the feel that it was being "slammed" into the next gear without any clutch. Once the car was warmed up, it appeared that when it shifted at 38-40 mph or 48-50 mph, the car shudders. It almost resembles the feeling you get when you run a car across those strips in the road.
I took the car to the dealership where I have had it serviced locally. They replaced a module which had Technical Service Bulletin from Chrysler for noted similar problems. The first module replaced did not resolve the problem. I took it back and they tried again with the end result being same as before I took the 300 into the shop, transmission appeared to shudder when shifting at the midrange gears.
The dealership as another option recommended that the transmission be replaced. I was not confident with their assessment as I had the distinct feeling they were not clear on the real issue.
I took the car to another service shop which I had more confidence in their work. I asked that they check the car for the problem with the transmission as I wanted their assessment. At this point, I had pretty much decided that I would get rid of the car, but did not want to give anybody else the troubled vehicle nor did I want to have to rush to decide on an automobile to purchase.
The second shop recommended the transmission be replaced, as well several other items be checked as there appeared to be oil leaks. The CAM plugs had been replaced as part of the service the dealer performed though the engine area had not been cleaned of the previous oil. That news was alarming, as the price estimate for a replacement engine was around 6500-7000 smackeroos, way outside of my comfort for repair on the car.
I was able to locate a used transmission with only 86k on it through a very gratuitous turn of fate. I digress, however, as the source for the used transmission was available only to licensed shops.
Two shops had referenced a transmission repair shop as one of the best in our small county. I left the car with the transmission shop for their testing, and it came back with their recommendation that the problem existed in either the coil or spark or an area related there.
I again took the car to the second shop and asked that they check the engine thoroughly for any issues with the spark plugs, wires or similarly related issues. The shop reported that the motor compression was at 190 across all six cylinder and the spark plugs and wires were new and there were no issues with the coils.
I am most happy that the engine is in excellent condition. I have planned to take the car back to the tranny shop as I reported the findings to him of the other shop. I am concerned about the transmission, though I am driving it about 60 miles round trip to work about 2-3 days each week. It still convulses at the mid-range shifting but otherwise runs pretty good after that. The car body is in very good shape as is the interior.
Everything was fine, running PHP 200X tune, switched to PHP 65 tow and took the 5er toy hauler on vacation last month. Pulled a lot of mountains,etc. While camping, took the truck unloaded to get fuel. Engaged tow/haul going down a mountain to utilize engine braking and the tunes "exhaust brake" and the trans slammed HARD into first gear. This happened twice. I refrained from using tow/haul. Heading home 450 miles with the 5er, I utilized tow/haul again (had it on the whole time, just like on the way down) and the truck and trans were flawless. Get home, switch back to 200X, and I'd say within a week or so, began having trans issues. Loaded stock tune, reset KAM with SCT, disconnected batteries with headlight switch on for a couple days, reloaded 200X and drove it for a couple days. No change.
It felt like the trans was slipping, not "going" like it should when on the throttle, and would sometimes not want to upshift. It would just act "weird". This would usually occur under 40 - 70% throttle (I rarely ever get on it more than that), but sometimes less. Never got any check engine light or tow/haul flashing.
So today I finally did what I should have weeks ago, took off work and ran the truck to a shop.
- First the tech hooked it up to the scanner. No codes.
- Test drove it. He said it drove fine for him. It was fine for me as well, driving it from my house to the shop (I didn't "get on" the throttle though).
- He monitored the voltage from the trans temp sensor. He said the voltage was fine, didn't spike or do anything crazy. He didn't seem 100% positive on this but, said it starts out at 5V cold and voltage should drop as the temp increases, which it did. However, the temp started out at 300 and then dropped to 200 as he was driving. #1 the temp isn't (shouldn't be) that high, and #2 it should increase while driving not drop. The temp shown on my Torque Pro app hit 149 on the way to the shop and 168 on the way home (90 degrees outside). So he seemed to think there was something screwy there.
- While driving it, his scanner showed a trans overheat (over temp/high temp, whatever) code, but no check engine light or tow/haul flash.
- Drove it home. Trans was fine until I got on it a bit and then it acted funny again. But just driving normal with light throttle it is fine.
* Thinking about trying a new temp sensor.
* Could it be in limp mode which is why it feels like it is slipping, i.e. doesn't have the normal power I'm used to?
* When the tow/haul light flashes, is it the tow/haul light on the instrument cluster? That's the only thing that lights up when I'm in T/H. Where you push the button never lights up. Assumed it was just white lettering and not a light.
So the other day I slammed on the brakes when traffic came to a halt on the highway. As I slammed down on the pedal, all the sudden the pedal lost pressure and went nearly to the floor, but firmed up just before bottoming out. My brake and ABS lights went on as well. Someone told me there is some kind of failsafe that blocks off the line if it ruptures, so maybe thats what happened? The brakes seem to work fine and are not loosing any more fluid, but the warning lights remain and the taillights do not light up.
So when I got home I took a look. On the fender side under the fuse box there was a lot of brake fluid, and looked like the line going from the master cylinder down to some kind of module (abs thingy?) below it was all rusted.
Today I replaced the line, and bleed the rear brakes. There did appear to be a ponhole in it, right where it would have been spraying the fender side where I saw all the fluid. The pedal is very firm right from the get go and brakes seem to be working fine. However the brake and ABS light remain, and my brake lights still dont come on when I press the pedal. Do I still have a leak somewhere or is there something else I have to do to clear the warnings and get my lights back?
2002 Diamante, Passenger side seatbelt became stuck and started smoking after the door was "slammed" shut. Need to know if this can be fixed or am I going to have to ride in the back seat?
View 1 RepliesOur 2012 RX350 was recently in for collision repair (minor) at the dealer's shop and upon return all is well except that the one touch feature of the moonroof is gone. The open/close and up/down buttons all seem to do both functions now. I can't find reset procedure.
View 6 RepliesSo I noticed my Azera has a leak in the corner of the moonroof. I went to take a closer look with the roof open, where the water goes. I see there is a metal channel that goes somewhere in the roof of the car, but I'm not sure where it goes, and where the water eventually goes. Does the channel exits the car somewhere, so water never gets in the actual car? I'm going to take it to get fixed, but not sure of the urgency. If the water is channeled out of the car somewhere then I can wait a week to get it fixed.
View 14 RepliesI want to hook up my radar and laser detector to my moon roof what wires can i use to run it off of? i have a 03 VW Passat 1.8T ....
View 7 RepliesI have left my moonroof open at least 10 times in 2 months! When you turn the car off and open the doors there to get out, the car doesn't give any warning sound to remind you that the moonroof is open! just a little msg on the cluster which I never look at n e way. even worse when I lock the car the roof wouldn't automatically close. My friend has F-20 328i and his moonroof closes automatically when he locks his doors. is there any setting in the car to fix this issue?
View 12 RepliesI have a 2012 LS 460. When the moonroof is closed the aft section is not flush with the roof. It's about 1/4 inch low. I don't think this is normal.
View 2 RepliesLexus 2012 ES 350 Dents near moonroof. The dealer says it cause by the flex of the car when you hit a pothole.
View 5 RepliesCurrently my wife owns the 2011 RX350 and we are having issues with our sunroof making loud mechnical noise when tilting up and down We have already address the issue with our local Lexus dealer and all they did was lubricate the sunroof and after a month or so the noise comes back We have tried to address the issue again with them mutilple times and all they can say that it happens to all the RX350
View 4 Replies