Camry :: How To Open HVAC Knob Controllers / Changing LED Lights
Mar 23, 2012
In the sticky post on the LED lights and how to change them. I was able to open the radio and removed the 8 green caps that was covering the radio's blue LEDs. I love the result.But the front of the HVAC knobs still shows the retro cyan color. I think it's the same blue LED with the green rubber cap over it. I tried opening it but failed. I didn't want to break anything. I want to go back and take a look at it again.URL...(Yes, the neo wedge bulb on the HVAC position indicator (left-most; Off, Low, ..., High) is out, I need to order some more. Originally, they were orange I think. I prefer blue. The green indicators in front are working fine.)
I had the bulbs replaced more than a year ago, but now I'm tired of looking at the retro cyan color. How to open it without breaking the parts inside?After unscrewing and taking the center console out of the car, I am able to isolate the radio unit from the HVAC controller unit and open it to reveal the circuit board, but I could not separate the HVAC knobs from the board. I don't know if the HVAC are soldered to the board or not, so that's where I stopped.
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I'm having problem on my camry 07 lights I checked the fuses under the good and under the steering wheel but everything seem fine...
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I know it's just one bulb behind the fan speed control knob. I also know (or was told, rather) that the lighting color is red because of some red plastic doo-dad. What I don't know is whether or not this plastic is red because of a film or coating applied to clear plastic or if the plastic itself is red.
I work at a graphics shop so I've got translucent vinyl film in various shades and tints of blue. If it's a film or coating applied to clear plastic that makes the lighting red, I could probably remove it from the plastic and apply a blue film. I'd really prefer not to take apart the dash to remove the HVAC controls only to find out that I'm stuck with red lighting.
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I originally wanted to change my shift knob...... but now, I am thinking of changing the whole thing to buttons.... *it's "fly by wire" anyways right?
as an example, how about fab'ing in the buttons from a tesla roadster? here's a pic ...., (it's a tight fit inside the car!)
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Planning on changing my stock to HID. how to install them. I looked around the web and I couldn't find anything. I have a camry 2013 SE. fog lights already installed and it has a plastic cover underneath.
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How can i change the fog lights to be halo or just hids. Need instructions.
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I recently noticed that the high beams on my car are actually pretty dim (38k miles with them.) I've looked online and it seems fairly easy to change out the bulb but I wanted to know if there any specific bulb brand recommended and also I wanted to know how to add fog lights since I live in a part of the country where it snow alot and its foggy in the summer.
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I have a 2008 Elantra GLS with approx 60,000 miles. Recently, without fail, a buzzing sound occurs when changing the vent control knob from floor to vent and vice versa. The sound lasts for about 2 seconds and sounds like it may be coming from the area behind the steering column. All the climate control systems work fine and the buzzing noise only occurs when changing the vent setting. At this point it is just a nuisance as everything seems to be working fine, but in my searching of the forums can not seem to pinpoint what the issue may be.
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The lights on the knob which selects the where to push the blower air have gone out. I took the dash fucia out and took the that piece that controls the heat and fan speed out. But I don't understand how to open it up to replace the bulb. There are little tabs around the piece which I tried to open but the knobs are connected to something inside so I didn't want to pull too hard and risk breaking something.
How I can change the light bulb? I attached a picture to the post and circled in red the area I'm referring to where the light bulb has gone out.
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Should the indicator above reads "4x2, 4x4 hi, 4x4 low" light up when the driving lights (i.e. at night) switch is on?
If yes, how to change the light bulb?
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Been having issues lately. Like I open the door and lights inside won't come on until the engine is cranked. Clock on dash resets. Then just yesterday I go to start it and get nothing. Checked battery connection and they are tight. What it could be. It's at the dealer being checked out. Probably will get the dreaded couldn't reproduce the problem.
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Tried finding any possible way to connect the map lights to the done so they both turn on when doors open...??? I have a se with no sunroof.
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The back up lights don't work until I open the trunk about 6 inches, then they both work.
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How difficult is it to change the bulb(s) for the dome light in a 05 GLI (mine is burnt out). Also the lights behind the HVAC Controls is burnt out as well, so is that difficult to get at and fix. I wouldn't think those would be on the same fuse cuz all the other interior lights work and everything, but I don't know.
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My dash lights and hvac lights don't work my brights indicator and check brakes lights are on so I think there's power going to it. I checked all the fuses and replaced the dimmer switch and checked all of the wires in and around the cluster. All bulbs are new and checked. I don't know what to do now and I couldn't find another post that had something i missed. 1997 5.8l F250 ....
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The light that indicates the HVAC position (floor, dash, defrost, etc) is out in my car. It's the light in the "ring" that turns.Is this replaceable? I searched, but figuring out right search term is the hard part i guess.
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Just changed the battery on a '98 Grand Caravan 3.3. In the process of tightening the positive terminal I accidentally touched the wrench to the negative. There was a spark, of course, but otherwise no biggie. However, now the HVAC indicator lights, including the rear wiper, defroster, etc. indicator lights, all blink continuously until about 15 minutes of driving, then they return to normal. I disconnected the battery thinking that I needed to clear the PCM but the blinking always returns. Is this some sort of manual code reading deal? If so there's no mention of it in the Haynes manual.
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I have a 2013 Camry SE that is, out of the blue, not blowing any air from the HVAC system. I checked the 2 A/C fuses any they are ok. The lights light up on the control panel like normal and the rear window defogger works correctly, so I don't think it's the control panel. I can't find any fuses or relays relayed to the blower motor in either fuse box.
What else should I check? The car is still under warranty (for a month!) but if it's a cheap and easy fix, I'd rather save the hassle of giving it to the dealer for a day and fix it myself.
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Our 2002 Camry SE V6 incurs a burning odor through the HVAC system after braking from moderate or higher speeds (at low speeds, this does not happen). It can last for a few seconds or a few minutes and then goes away (it does not happen while in motion). I cannot smell anything outside the car.
The car was inspected & serviced two months ago with no issues found. The front valve cover was replaced about a year ago but the back valve cover was OK to leave as is.
I would want to say it is the brakes or the snow tires causing the odor but it is strange it only smells inside the car.
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I'm installing an aftermarket radio in my 2004 SD. The illumination control stopped working (when I turn on the lights, the radio doesn't get darker), and now the dash and a/c panel aren't backlit any more.
This is the first time I've driven it since the new radio. I thought I might have seen a spark when testing to see which wire was the illumination control, but I'm not sure. I've got a fuse box diagram, but so far all the fuses look good.
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My buddy has a 2002 Camry LE(?), without Automatic Climate Control. He had experienced the flashing A/C light like many others, but his solution to the problem was to direct-wire the compressor to the battery. Seemed to work fine, and the compressor still works. Fast-forward to two weeks ago. All HVAC function stopped working from the standpoint of air blowing. No outside air. No A/C. No heat. AND no rear defroster. He replaced the Magnetic Clutch relay tonight thinking it might have something to do with the problem, but that did not solve it. We checked the blower motor, and it only has 0.01V going to it when the air is on. We're getting no sound of anything going on in the cabin.
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