Camry :: Extreme Heat Without Stripping The Head Bolt Threads?
Jun 24, 2013
Extreme tempertaures in NJ this week.Can this car handle this extreme heat without stripping the head bolt threads? Less than a minute after I start my car in this heat my fan turns on, yet the temp gauge is still below the middle mark..Can this car handle 90 degree + temps (also have A/C) on?2006 Camry Le 60K Miles--replaced coolant around a year ago.
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I just inherited a 2004 Camry LE I4 like the one I already own. This car has 257785 on the ODO. I got the engine already taken apart from the Head Bolt Issue known for the 2AZ-FE Engines. I finally got everything back together, the timing is all set and I am at TDC. I also added all the fluids and got a new battery. The old one way pushing out 10.4 VDC from sitting so long. This is how everything turned out:
- During the Initial turn over the engine tried to crank and just ended up sputtering and cranking again.
After the first crank, I got my OBD scanner and plugged it in. These are the Codes that showed up:
- P2716 - Pressure Control Solenoid 'D' Electrical
- P0010 - A Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit/Open Bank 1 a
- P0778 - Pressure Control Solenoid 'B' Electrical
- P2102 - Throttle Actuator 'A' Control Motor Circuit Low 9
- P0748 - Pressure Control Solenoid 'A' Electrical
So I found another thread on here about a Highlander with the same engine and Codes. The grounds ended up being the cause. I searched TIS for the Electrical Diagrams and found all the Engine Compartment Grounds. I cleaned the grounds and tested them all came back showing correct Voltage.
After that, I tried to crank it again and still didn't start, so i hooked up the OBD Scanner again. These are the codes:
- P0983 - Shift Solenoid 'D' Control Circuit High
- B1660 - Passenger Airbag Indicator Malfunction (Clock and Airbag Status Light on Dash were not Plugged in)
Now I have noticed these problems without even starting it:
- Turn the Key to 'ON' without cranking; everything is fine (all dash lights show up)
- Turn the Key to 'OFF' after the 'ON' Position; the Oil Pressure Light, AirBag Light, Battery/Alternator Light and CEL All stay lit. If you activate the Cruise Control or E-Brake the Cruise and BRAKE Light come on respectively. If you take the Key out everything is still the same.
- While the Lights are stuck on the Dash; if you flip the Wiper Switch Down the Left Side Radiator Fan turns on.
- If you turn the Blower Motor Fan on while the Key is in the 'ON' Position then to the 'OFF' Position; the blower motor stays on.
I looked at all the Fuses and none are blown. What else could it be? I have spent a while looking at everything and can't figure it out.
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I have a 98 Passat 1.8T with 99,000 miles on her. The stripping on the either side of the windshield has just about completely disintegrated from the desert heat in Vegas. I have tried searching all over the internet but I can't find exactly what I need.
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I have had the red triangle after having the car parked in extreme rain/heat pop up when I start the vehicle 3 times in about 6 months. The first 3 times I did not have Techstream so I just cleared the codes, but the third time I finally read it and had those 3 codes, the first two I assume being most important. I clear the codes each time I see them and they stay off 1-2 months. About 140k miles on car. New 12V battery. No driveability issues. Car still gets decent 60 mpg in summer, 50 in winter. P3000 P3009 B2799
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I have a 1990 legacy and just replaced the water pump gasket and now it is leaking out of an upper bolt head on the pump and how to cure this....
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Well i had an exhaust leak on this F250 and so I started torquing the bolts on the manifold to the head. (45 ft.lbs) A couple were very loose so I was thinking "Great, this may fix my problem!"
My first mistake was probably the Harbor Freight Tools torque wrench.
I am on the driver side, second from the rear and then bang! I see a gaping hole where the bolt used to be. Bolt on the floor. I cant see up in the hole to the head, I think it broke flush with the head.
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I've experienced a fuel leak, I've checked all over, and the only thing I've came up with so far, was maybe its coming from the banjo bolt going into the front of the driver side head.. I cant really get to it good enough to tell though..
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My 2002 camry has been driving poorly the last few months with extreme swaying on freeways on turns and high winds. When I took it to Toyota a while back they said they needed to replace the rear sway bar bushings. Sounded right but at the time to avoid all the costs with other repairs, brakes etc, I put it off. Now I took it to the local mech and he says he cannot see anything wrong even after driving andwhere toyota found a rear seal leak he did not pick up on this. I will take it back to toyota ..
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Early around 8k on my 14.5 SE I had to have the valve cover gasket replaced due to oil creeping out of the edge of the valve cover close to the air filter box. Now yesterday as I was replacing my fog light bulbs I noticed that there is some oil creeping around the bolt on the bottom where the Transmission casing joins the engine.
I understand that I'm putting a lot of miles on this car (10K now), but I really don't feel like its right for a car to have such oil leaks so early in its life time.
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Frightening thing here. Finding sand/dirt in threads of my plugs! Not sure how such a thing would happen.
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I got a piece of bolt stuck in the trans pan bolt hole, how to get that out if there!
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I was loosening the bolt that holds down the number one spark plug wire when it just spun off leaving less than half the bolt in the valve cover. I tried using the grabbit extractor but that did not work.
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Went to do my first oil change last night. Removed the horribly over tightened oil filter with out issue. We to pull the drain plug out of the oil pan and could not get to budge. Got a bigger breaker bar and got it out. Plug came out with about half the threads of the pan stuck in the bolt threads. Bolt must have been tongued to 100+ foot pounds. Got a new oil pan on order with dealer think i will have to cover cost since i was doing my own oil change.
Truck is a 2016 f250 6.7L.....
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I know that the transmission becomes a problem when you start making big power with the R but I'm trying to find out what actually breaks. Is it the gears stripping or maybe even the case cracking? I saw a thread a while ago about someone making stronger gears but now I can't find it. How well that turned out? Any solution to the tranny problem other than to just be easy in the lower gears?
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I have a 2000 Grand Caravan and had a Chrysler dealer change the oil in July....just took it in today for another oil change and they told me the oil drain plug just turns - either the plug is stripped or the threads on the pan are stripped....I said that they were the ones who changed the oil last time so if anything happened then they did it....they are saying that over time the threads can become stripped - suggesting that if the threads on the oil pan are stripped then I will have to buy a new oil pan.....I said that I had not touched the oil pan so if something is wrong then they are responsible - the threads don't just strip themselves.
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I have a huge problem. I was installing an air raid throttle body spacer while talking to a friend on the phone. While talking, I accidentally dropped one of the bolt spacers down the throttle body intake. Is there any way to get the spacer back without having to take the intake manifold off.
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I'm missing a bolt hold down for the power steering unit, where can I get the spec for the bolt so I can purchase and replace that bolt?
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The 2 of the 3 screws holding my steering box on just sheared off at the threads when I was pulling into my parking spot. My steering has been stiff only when turning left and only when going slow for a couple weeks now. I've seen many posts on this, it seems the steering gear is mostly to blame.
But how would a bad steering gear cause the bolts to break? It must be binding on the steering somewhere else, right?
When I first started getting the stiff steering, I really thought it was my u-joints, the left front started making noise when I'm in 4x4. But when I jacked up the wheel, I could turn the u-joint freely when the wheel was at full lock. After that, I decided I was going to order a Redhead steering box, but now I'm not sure!
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Specs for the two bolts/washers for the passenger side (only) exhaust hanger? I'm referring There one hanger on the passenger side only w/ two captive threads in the subframe.
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I have had noise problem under dash or wherever it may be. I am not sure where the exact location because I can't pinpoint it out. I hear the noise whenever I turn on A/C or blower for windshield. Basically, anything which is related to air will make noise. It's like water striping noise. Something like cold water drops on hot metal. You can hear the noise at night clearly but during the day, it is hard to hear but still is hearable. Besides that, the car is quite. The Hyundai service has changed my blower but the noise is still there. The service man said it was hard for them to know what caused the noise but they had no clue right now.
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Trying to work under the hood and notice that in the acre or so I have to work in, there are tons of canisters and hoses and lines. What all can be removed and what can be relocated?
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