Camry :: Did Not Start After 15 Minutes From Turning Off
Apr 18, 2013
So yesterday car did not start after 15 min from turning off .... Waited about 45 min. And it started(during the time it would not start i checked battery and its connections checked its voltage which was at 12.8 volts ... I had power in the car.
My headlights were as bright as ever and did not dim or flicker as i tried to turn on the car.. Did not start in those 45 min. to about 1 hour. Today happened again twice.
I banged on the starter both times and it worked like a charm both times ...... So I am thinking its gotta be the starter ... I run to autozone and ask them to test my starter and they said that it was good....
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I have a 2000 BMW 323i with 140,000 miles on it, which has intermittent starting problems. This usually occurs after trying to restart the car within 5 to 10 minutes after turning it off. After several attempts and 10 to 15 minutes, the car does always restart. When the problem occurs, the engine does not turn over at all, but the electrical system seems to work. The dealer has been unable to duplicate the problem.
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I have a 93 Camry that quit on the highway. No spark, crack in condensor replaced distributer. Still not run. Rotor not turning, replaced timing belt, main engine fuse heating up replaced that. Now it starts right up but only runs 10 minutes. Then won't restart until several hours go by then it will start again. Runs like a champ when it starts.
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I replaced my engine that had 155,000 miles with a newer used one with about 30,000 miles. since the swap my gas mileage is down by one third or more. Everything else seems fine except that my cold start idle is up to 2000rpm's until it drops to normal within 3 minutes.
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When I go to start my car in the morning the first 5-6 times I turn it over, doesn't start, than it starts than dies out about 3 times than it will keep a idle, but if I press the gas pedal when it starts to idle it always dies out but if I let it warm up when it starts to idle it doesn't die out? If I drive it and shut it off as long as the engine is warm it starts right up..
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My aunt's toyota camry will only start if we hold the directional indicator down when turning the ignition on. I thought she was crazy when she told me but that's really the only way it will start! It's a 1999.
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Took '05, (package 5) to dealer for 70k maintenance yesterday for trip tomorrow. Got new tires, this, that, the other. On the way home the headlight leveler warning comes on, goes off, comes on, goes off.
Back to the dealer, he says it's just "it's time". I am driving 500 miles tomorrow for vacation. He says the headlights are properly aligned and it's probably just the sensor and I can have it fixed when I return because this won't be quick.
I don't know if I can tolerate that darn chime going off every 10 minutes for 1000 miles. Is there any way to turn off the volume of the chime?
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I've noticed this more on the Phaeton than the last two cars I have owned. When the car is warm and I arrive at my destination and turn the engine off, the engine makes a lot of little pings and pangs for several minutes. Don't know how better to describe the sound. Does this mean anything? Normal?
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My 2008 camry le v4 has some starting problem. So what happens is when i turn ignition on everything works like radio lights but no cranking i tried lock unlock. Ignition on off. But no cranking but after 2 mins it starts in first self.
It doesn't happens every time but normally Everyday in morning it starts fine but in evening it does it more or when weather is hot. Battery is new. Starter has no problems. I even tried different key.
It looks like alarm issue but i am not sure all the fuses looks fine. Every time it does it its always around 2 mins from when i put in key first time. But it always starts after delay. Its been doing this from 4 month with up to 2 weeks with no problem.
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I have Australian Camry 2011 and there is a weird problem in the air conditioner, the issue happens when my car was sitting out in the parking for more than 4 hours the ac blows a hot air for 5 minutes then it's work fine and blows cold air and if i turn the ac off and on its blows a cold air immediately. I can't understand the reason of this issue ....
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2006 Toyota Camry LE (4 cyl) with 149,500 miles. All maintenance up to date.
Over the past month, anytime I drive over 80 mph within 15 minutes, the CEL comes on with the code P0420. I read the code and erase it. The funny thing is typically I'm getting very good gas mileage during that tankful when the CEL comes on. I've read that it is likely the downstream oxygen sensor and I plan to replace it. (In February, I replaced the air/fuel sensor). My two questions are:
a) What is the part number for the oxygen sensor (non-California emissions)? I want to make sure I get the right part.
b) Why the CEL comes on after travel over 80 mph? Is this coincidence or is there a reason why this happens?
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What that is for?
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117,000+ mi. on my '07 Camry LE and it's started locking itself two to three minutes after I've just unlocked it with the keyless remote.
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What is that little motor shown in the still image (in focus at 22 seconds in the video) and why is it ticking? I noticed for the first time ever that it coincidentally wasn't ticking when I first tried shooting this video. After idling for a few minutes, it came on and started ticking away. Its much more noticeable when the engine idle is lower than in the video, and its more noticeable in person. The noise I am referring to is more pronounced later in the video at around 44 seconds when I go completely out of focus because I am putting the mic right next to it.
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Just started recently on my 2007 Camry. The doors lock by themselves several minutes after I park it in the garage.
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2009 V6 Auto. The car runs perfectly, the cel and traction lights have been on for a year. I bought a scangague that reads and resets them. The code returns within 10 minutes of driving after being cleared. The code refers to 'air bleed circuit'. Fuel economy is about the same as our other V6 Camry of the same model. Any clues?
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I own a 2007 Camry LE. It's 4 cylinder and has 80k miles. Since I can remember, the A/C takes a really long time to start blowing cold air.
I'm in Miami, where ambient temp is about 90 F every day and it takes about 2-3 minutes to blow cold air. I can tell because this usually happens when I get around a certain street (SW 40th Street), so the problem is self-replicating regularly.
My father is a house A/C mechanic and he filled it with refrigerant but this has not fixed the problem. If the car has been driven and been parked under shade, the A/C blows cold air since the start. After being driven for 2-3 minutes, it blows cold air like a monster, I usually have to run it on 70 % cold and low fan - that's how well it performs.
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Had very cold weather the past few weeks. Took my car out early in the morning last Thursday (after warming it up) and there was a loud squealing noise from the heater for about 2 minutes when I was driving five minutes from my driveway. Since then, I have this faint squealing noise that can be heard anytime that heater is on. It loud on the first two settings.
Took it to Toyota and they said it was normal due to the cold but from past cars I've owned, it looks like the blower motor could be on it's way out? Can this be true? Car has 11,000 miles on it.
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It is a Camry 2005 3L 1MZ-FE engine, 100K KM on the clock. In the cold mornings, I hear noise from the timing belt area for about 3-4 minutes then the noise reduced. But I can still hear some noise all the time. From what I read, it appears that the hydraulic tensioner (tensioner idler pulley, NTN 13540-20030) is bad. Plus, I can feel that the car does not take off as fast as another older Camry with timing belt replaced (everything else is good with this Camry 2005)
My questions are:
1. Is it possible that only the tensioner is bad, not the timing belt to make the noise or both of them need to be bad?
2. If it is the case that only the tensioner is bad, is it possible to replace the tensioner only without changing the belt and other part (I mean without removing the crank pulley and other parts)? I don’t want to replace everything if I don’t have to.
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I have a 98 Toyota Camry, when I drive it for about 30 minutes both radiator hoses expand and seems like they want to burst.I removed the thermostat but still acting the same. Seems like the car is building a lot of pressure from the engine.. What could this be? Already replaced the water pump and have a new. radiator... The car does not overheat with or without the thermostat.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with 207K miles on it. I recently replaced the catalytic converter on it in order to fix the P0420 code. I drove the car to work the next day and the test came back under the max specs. I drove back home and everything was fine. No more CEL.
Now I have the problem where the car starts normal when its cooled down, but if I drive it for a few minutes and turn it off and back on again it stalls. If I let it cool down for a minute it will turn on but idle really rough like at 400 RPMs. At times it will stall back again.
The only other thing I did differently was pump a full tank of gas at a different gas station than I normally do. Before I changed the CAT I had no problems like this.
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