Camry :: Clearance Between Edge Of Caliper And Balanced Wheel Weights Are Very Tight
May 9, 2013
This is the 4th/5th/6th Gen Camry TRD four pot BBK setup. Theses are lightweight racing-inspired four pistons aluminum calipers. They will need Iconman's custom brackets to fit on Toyota models. Based on the cheap Highlander BBK thread, the caliper mounting bolts are in the same location so this setup will likely also work for 4th, 5th and 6th gen Camry as well. I have them on the 2003 Camry.
The OEM 2003 Camry caliper, bracket and bolts weights in at 8lbs. The TRD caliper with mounting bracket and bolts weights in at 6lbs. I know this doesn't sound impressive but consider the 4 pot calipers are larger in every aspects compare to the twin pistons Highlander caliper which weights 12lbs.As you can see the clearance between the edge of the caliper and the balanced wheel weights are very tight, and even with the 10mm spacer, the inside spokes of the Solara 17'' rim to face of the caliper have little room for play. 17'' rim are smallest size you can run with this setup. I also had to use extended studs and 10mm slip on spacer.
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I have some rectangular weights bonded to my rims just behind the spokes. Are these to balance the rim before a tire is installed or is this how the tire and rim are balanced on the alloy wheels? Maybe to keep from putting the normal wheel weights on the outside of the rim?
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I just got 4 new tires fitted and as soon as I got home and went to check the pressures, I notice that the way they've fitted the balance weights on the edge of the tires prevents the wheel trims from clipping in correctly.
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I just got new rotiform BLQ rims and nexen tires. I have the hub rings and the setup was balanced and aligned (double checked).
Before this I had 3 bent TSW rims and got a pretty bad shake in the wheel around 65-70 mph. Before or after that speed everything is smooth now.
Why would this shake still occur.
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Lexus es 350 steering wheel is heavy/tight when turning?
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Having trouble turning my wheel both ways on my trail blazer. Just replaced wheel bearings on truck not sure what would causing this. Also tries are wearing down..
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I have a problem with my VW Touareg 05 plate. When I turn the steering wheel full lock left or right in tight places the car shudders. It doesn't do it all the time but does appear to be getting worse as time goes on. I have been told that it may well be the Stepper motor.
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On my 2004 s-cab the steering is starting go 'notchy'?
I have considered, tight upper or lower ball joints, pump, rack or even a sticking rear diff, but not carried out any checks yet except oil level
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I've got an 04 f250 4x4 crew cab. I just replaced the upper and lower ball joints on both sides and also the drag link. My alignment was off from the bad ball joints so I had it aligned after I did all of this. Now the steering is really weird. Its like something is to tight. I can barely keep the truck straight because every time I barely move the wheel I seem to be going one way or another and getting it straight is nearly impossible to the point I look like a drunk driver. I can turn the wheel to go around a curve and let go of it and it will stay that way until I turn it back. It won't return itself. I'm kind of lost.
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I have a 2006 Camry LE. It seems as if the wipers on my Camry are not wiping as far as they should/could. Specifically, the driver's side wiper only wipes to about 4" from the edge of the driver's/left side edge of the windshield.
This wasn't so much a problem in the rain, but in heavy snow, it leaves a pretty severe blindspot in the driver's left side of the windshiled. It seems as if the wiper should wipe at least another 2-3" further to remove more rain/snow from the windshield and give the driver a better line of view.
Further, when the wipers come back down, they come to a "clunk" as if they were coming down too far. Is there an adjustment for the wiper arms/wiper motor to allow them to wipe more of the windshield?
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I have a 93 Aerostar RWD 4.0L that I was driving around town a few weeks ago and I noticed it wasn't braking that well. The pedal is usually firm but easy to push and very sensitive...instead it was a lot firmer and didn't brake as quickly when i put my foot down. The van itself felt a little under powered, like something was holding it back and I had to put my foot down a lot more to get it up to speed. After awhile I began getting a really bad burning smell coming in through the driver window. I pulled over and saw small faint lines of smoke coming out of the front driver side wheel well, upon closer inspection I got a good wiff of burnt brake pad (I am familiar with the scent) and the hub cap on the wheel was really hot. I automatically assumed the caliper was ceased.
Later when I had free time took the wheel off removed the caliper from the wheel and everything looked fine. I was able to push the piston back in with ease using a C-clamp, but there was a lot of corrosion in and around the piston, I wire brushed it off and greased and cleaned everything up. I took it out since then on a few short trips to the store, everything seemed fine. Today however it happened again, and I began smelling burnt brake pad from the same wheel well. It only seems to happen when I have been driving it for a long time like 30mins to 1hr, short trips everything is fine. Is this the caliper or the Master cylinder? Due to the excessive heat around the wheel hub should i maybe think about replacing the inner and outer wheel bearings as well?
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2001 F250, 5.4, Replaced the clockspring and now my steering wheel feels very tight. After cornering, it doesn't come back on it's own, like something is rubbing. The face of the clockspring is slightly different than what was there.
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My car is pulling to one right slightly so I did the alignment. But it didnt eliminate the problem. Ｉ jacked up my car and try to rotate the front wheel. I can hear slight noise of the caliper rubbing the disk and the wheel does not spin freely if I stopped rotating it. However, the noise is subtle so I don't know if it is by design or I have a brake drag.
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One of the caliper does not fully retract when I don't push the brake, the wheel is hard to rotate when the car is on the lift.
I pretty sure it is the square ring the problem.
I know that those square ring worth only a couple of bucks.
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I'm in need of what's going on with my 2005 Toyota Camry 2.4L (American Build), Non-skid, on the front brakes.
About 2 months ago my L/F brakes just locked up. So, I towed it to the dealership to have the brakes looked at and worked on. They said my Camry was locking up because the L/F caliper is freezing up. So, what the dealership did is replace the 2 front rotors, new brake pads, and new calipers. Got the brake fluid flushed out, also. Now, after about a thousand miles later and about 2 months, the same thing is happening. The L/F caliper are locking up.
I brought it back to the dealership and they said NOW, that it's the "ABS Actuator Pump Assembly" and the parts/labor would cost roughly $ 1300 dollars.. Now, when they replaced that part. The same problem is still happening. The L/F caliper is locking up. Luckily, when it was locking up I didn't drive the vehicle to far to damage the brand new brakes that was put in the first place.
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Last Spring, my 2007 Camry Hybrid (54k miles back then, now at 62k) developed an obnoxious squeal coming out of the left rear wheel while driving at highway speeds. It takes several minutes at this speed to make the sound, so I believe wheel temperature triggers the sound. Touching the brake would temporarily silence it. After parking the car, I discovered that the left rear wheel was very warm, while the others were cool. I also saw excessive brake dust on the wheel.
I pulled the wheel to inspect. and saw that the track of the brake pad had moved a millimeter or two up the disk, so now part of the pad was over the "rusty" portion of the disk. The rusty, unworn part of the disc was thicker, so the part of the pad that was now over it was rubbing. At higher speeds, the rubbing would heat up the wheel and I'd gradually get the loud squeal.
I dismantled the pad, cleaned it, tightened the mounting brackets (via slight bending) and put it all back together. This solved the problem for 8 months. It just came back to haunt me on a recent highway trip...
It's a pain to take it all apart, especially if I am only temporarily fixing the issue. The pads still have over 85% live (including the rubbing one) and the disks look great on all wheels with no vibrations.
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Someone had worked on the car and front caliper pins got mixed up. Where the pin with the rubber piece goes into. The top or bottom of the caliper. and is it the same for both sides.
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I have an '04 Toyota solar a. In 2012 I replaced the rear calipers and rear break pads and rotors Now 18 months later I have been told that my rear caliper piston is frozen and I have to replace both calipers and beak pad and rotors. Does this sound reasonable. It will cost me another $600. What should I do
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I'm working on a 2007 Camry and I had the wheel bearings pressed in & out at a shop. I put everything back together but the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper bracket. And there is no air gap between the rotor and bracket so it can spin freely without rubbing. The passenger side is fine, there is a little air gap so the rotor can move freely without rubbing. I don't understand why the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper? I checked everything over, the pads and rotor are the correct ones. I also took the pass side caliper bracket and installed it on the driver side and same thing, the rotor still rubs against the bracket.
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I'm having a tough time separating the brass fitting, even using a 10mm wrench. I noticed it moves below the bracket, so I'm trying to hold the oval with square corner base on the hose itself, but even then, have started to round the corners on the brass nut.
I'm gonna continue with the job, leaving the old hose, and will have to come back to this later, because I'm installing a new caliper (old one froze, and I just found out why, broken lower slide).
Any trick to separating the fitting between steel brake line and rubber?
ETA, to replace the brass fitting, does it mean cutting the tube, inserting another fitting, and flaring the end? I hate to leave the old hose or a rounded nut.
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2005 Toyota Solara my front driver side caliper was sticking and heating up a couple months ago... replaced the caliper and the rotor... still had the same problem. I would drive it, it got hot and stuck, after I parked for a little while it slowly released. Talked to a couple of mechanics and they both said undoubtedly I had a bad flex hose and it was collapsing with pressure and then will release... I changed the flex hose and flushed the fluid and it was immediately fixed...no problems.
Drove the car for a month, went to South Carolina and back and then a couple days ago the same thing started happening. Talked to a mechanic, he told me that the new caliper may have gotten fried from over heating before I changed the flex hose... Got a new caliper today (warranty) exchange... changed it out and still have the same problem. When it sticks I can release the pressure by opening the bleeder valve so it seems like the flex hose issue again... my only thought now is maybe the new flex hose is a bad one and someone mentioned the proportioning valve.
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