I have 2004 Toyota Camry V4 Automatic , I recently installed a Two way Compustar Remote Starter a month ago. While i was driving my vehicle on the highway (110 kmph) my car engine shut off completely with no lights. I parked my car on the shoulder and again start my car normally with the key and was able to start it normally. There was no engine check lights or any kind of warning.
View 1 RepliesOne evening, I started my car but it shut off right after 2 3 seconds, then check engine light and battery light came ON.
Started again, it ran like normal with check engine light ON. After 2 3 miles, car started chugging & surging before the engine shut off completely. Started again, it ran just fine.
Next day, I took my car to the shop. They found out that P0351, 0352, 0353, 0355, 0356 codes. Then, they replaced 5 ignition coils for $600. But the problem was still there.
I took my car to the shop again, they replaced 2 variable timing valves. Cost $400. Unfortunately, it would not solve the problem. Third solution, they replaced my timing belt. Problem remained unsolved.
However, the check engine light turned itself off when my car ran fine. It turned back on again when my car started chugging & surging and stopped. It has been happening for 1 month. 2 3 times a day, especially in the early morning when the weather is cold and the evening.
At noon, my car just runs fine without any problems, even the check engine light turned itself OFF.
My 08 prius completely shut off while driving on the california freeways today. No warnings no lights on the dash nothing. Just powered off. Will not start the ready light of any dash lights for that matter work.. tried to jump it.. nothing working. What the he'll can cause thus.. I'm about 500 miles from home with a car just parked. Could a 12v battery cause this no start issue?
View 15 RepliesI'm having a problem with my 2003 Camry LE V6. It started when the CD play stopped working, and rather than going to the dealer I just bought an OEM one on craigslist. It works great, except now when I take the key out of the car after about 30 seconds the electronics shut off completely. Dome light goes out, map lights don't work, keyfob doesn't work, etc. As soon as I put the key in the car and turn it to ACC or ON everything comes back, but if I take the key out I lose power within 30 seconds or so.
I am assuming this is a security feature because there is likely a mismatch in codes between the original, and new radios.
I have 2010 Toyota Camry, whose battery was replaced about 2 months ago. The oil was changed about a month ago also. Two days ago i was driving out of my gyms parking garage and 5 minutes into the drive my car completely shut off in the middle of traffic. It happened as soon as i hung up the phone while talking to my husband on a car speaker system. The car would not turn on, my dashboard looked like a rainbow with all the warning lights on, the windows worked, there was no sound coming from the car even when i tried to turn it on. I called AAA to have a wrecker move my car from the middle of traffic, and they stated there were no available wreckers, that i would have to wait 2 hours...so finally push the car into a drive way. So about 20 minutes pass by while I am waiting for my husband, and all the sudden I am able to turn my car on. I drove my car all the way home with my husband behind me ( 30 minute drive) with no problems. I still haven't had a problem but now I am paranoid that it might happen again.
View 3 RepliesI have a problem with my 2014 camry. Yesterday out of nowhere, my dome lights wouldnt shut off.. I checked all the doors, made sure they are all shut.. but no luck.
View 5 RepliesI've been browsing around and researching the problem where the gauges shut down and the abs among with other lights come on intermittently anywhere from a few seconds to 10-15 minutes because I'm currently having this issue. From what I've found, it is the abs ecu.
View 4 RepliesI start noticing a weird noise upon cold start up. It sounds like something is grinding. First goes starter sound and then engine noise together with this grinding noise. Grinding noise goes away within sec. or so. It is not really loud, but it definitely not engine or starter sound.
It happens only on cold starts when engine is completely cold. If I start engine, let it run for few minutes, shut it down and restart again, it starts without grinding noise. Don't remember if car was doing it from beginning, never turned car while I was outside. Few weeks ago when temperature dropped below freezing point, I turned ignition through passenger door to warm up the engine.
After that I begun listening every start up. Every start up same noise. Every morning and every time after work I hear this noise. No noise if car been driven recently or engine is still warm.
Not my car, but sound is identical : [URL] ......
My 2002 Toyota Camry XLE V6 (115k miles) stalls once every 4 months (happened thrice in the last year) or so when I'm braking & bringing the care to a complete stop.
The check-engine light comes on just before the car completely stops. The steering wheel feels locked. Putting it back in parking, turning off & turning it back on doesn't work. The car doesn't start. After 10-15 minutes, If I put the key in, turn it on & try to turn the steering wheel while turning it on, it turns back up & runs without any issues for the next few months.
I've taken the car to 3 different mechanics (including a Toyota dealership mechanic) & they tell me that the car is in great condition (I've done a lot of preventive maintenance on the car). They can't find any error codes & they checked everything but can't find any issues
I have a 2.5L 2010 camry se ... Car was running perfectly fine last night. The next morning all the lights were on but when i turned the key to start it up, i just heard a click and all the lights shut off. Checked the battery with voltmeter and its reading fully charged but lights on the dash are no longer lighting up. Starter problem?
View 3 RepliesMy car has worked fine since I got it 1 year ago, I just put a new battery a few months ago but when I tried to start it this morning it started for a second then completely shut off. I cant even take the key out of the ignition (infiniti q45 has a button on the ignition that needs to be pushed while taking the key out and that button is stuck now.) When I open the door, the lights on the side of the door and the open door sound work but they are both very distorted and faint.
View 1 Repliesso I was driving down the street the other day then my car completely shut off no interior lights car won't turn over radio wont turn on had to push it up the hill, to get it out of the street and get it towed.
View 13 RepliesI got a brand new 590 HP Ford F150 Raptor with the Roush Supercharger. The car's electronics have completely shut down twice (first at about 800 miles and again at 2500 miles). I called the dealer the first time it happened and they said i must have bumped the key. I figured it could have been a fluke, but then it happened again so the car is no longer safe to drive.
I've taken it into the dealer twice and they can't find anything wrong with it unless i can recreate the problem for them. Obviously if it happens once every 1000 miles, that is tough to do. The only common theme was that it happened both times while slowing down and turning left.
I've given up on having Ford service, so i'm about to just replace the ignition on my own dime. If i didn't put $25k into it already, i'd just make the dealer take it back under lemon laws.
Have a 06 Passat which shows to low pressure on tyres, but can't find that it's anything wrong with the pressure - I'v tried to turn it off, and it actually turns off for a little while - then starts to warn again of low pressure.
I've heard it can also monitor spare tyre - but I don't have spare only this compressor unit stuff.
What might cause this? - can I turn it off for real with vag-com in any way ?
I had a leaking reserve tank on my Honda. These bikes have 2 gas tanks. Why I do not know. It is a pain to remove this tank. I fixed the leak but after it started hard. I thought perhaps the carbs were dried out and it took a while because of that. Once I originally got it started it started fine. It would miss a little especially when cold. I had not taken it very far until the other day.
After 10 miles it began to lose power and shut down completely. After 10 minutes I got it to run for 5 more miles. I stopped to do something and left there about another 5 miles till it shut down again. After another 10 min wait I got it to run after turning it over for a long time. After a few more times I got it home to storage. I thought after it cooled off it would start up easier, but no it started just as hard as it was warm.
What could I have screwed up by simply repairing the reserve fuel 2nd tank? Could I have gotten some dirt or something into the tank?
I drive a 2002 Honda Civic 4 door DX.
In 2011 at intersections, the car unpredictably shut off completely and then restarted ten minutes later - this happened twice, spaced two weeks apart.
I took the car to two mechanics, one a Honda, where they simulated driving and performed diagnostic tests but could find nothing wrong.
I Googled the Internet in search of an answer and ran across a fellow who had experienced a similar shutdown with his car and resolved it by purchasing a new ignition switch. So I tried that. Everything was fine until two weeks when I stopped at an intersection and the car shut down again - the dashboard lights stayed on. A police officer nearby push the car to the side of the road and we then pushed the car back and forth a bit. About ten minutes later, the car started up again as if nothing had happened and everything was OK.
I again took my car to the Honda dealer, but they could find nothing wrong, including driving the car around the neighborhood.
I am a total loss as to what do to. I am reluctant to junk this car because everything else is A-OK. The car drives fine and I love it because it is manual with minimum digital stuff including manual windows. But I cannot afford to drive this car when there is the chance of another unpredictable shutdown.
I have an 03 v10 with a Powerdyne supercharger. The Ex came with an extra computer with a Superchip. The Superchip has a proper tune for the supercharger but when I install it with the extra "bad" computer the truck will completely shut down after driving ~100 miles. This is very dangerous because I lose power steering and brakes during the shutdown. The Ex starts back up after a few minutes and then shuts down more frequently until I reset the computer. I speculate that something is going wrong after the "bad" computer has learned the driving habits.
The other "good" computer works great and does not ever shut off the motor, but at full throttle the Ex will bog and I am losing HP produced by the SC. I don't think it has the optimal tune because my wideband AFR reads lean right before it bogs and I think it is bogging to protect the motor from a lean condition. I would like to install the chip into the "good" computer that never shuts the truck down to get the benefit of the proper tune, but I don't want to risk damaging it or experiencing the dreaded shutdown. A few questions :
- Why the truck shuts down while under power?
- Any reason to think that the chip will cause the "good" computer to shut down while driving?
- Could the chip be causing the shutdown, not the actual "bad" computer itself?
- Would the best option be to send the chip to 5star tunes and have them program a tuner with the superchip tune...and a few others?
- Any way to flash the "good" computer with the superchip tune?
Last night I drove to pick up my wife from work, well I got to the place and put the Touareg in park and shutdown the engine. The light switch was in Auto as it was getting dark and the lights had come on while I was enroute.
When I shut down the engine the interior lights stayed on, as well as the taillights I noticed. I sat in the car waiting for 10-15 minutes listening to the radio with the interior lights on. Was I draining my battery? Should I not do this in the future by switching the light switch to off from auto?
I was driving to work yesterday and my stock radio completely shut off. It will not come back on. The local dealer was very supportive today, however. After a few hours of investigative work & a few calls to Toyota corp. They have determined that it was a bad component in the radio. They are rush ordering me a new one.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1983 Dodge W150 that has a problem. It stops running with the electrical system completely shut down. If the battery is taken out of the system, and then reconnected, it starts and runs fine. Some history: a trailer brake control was installed a few years ago. Where the wire ran from the battery through the firewall, the insulation chafed and eventually shorted out. The fuseable links were burned out. I disconnected the brake control from the battery and replaced the fuseable links with a fuse block. The truck ran fine for 18 months. It has stopped twice in the last couple of days. Apparently something like a circuit breaker is tripping and then resetting when the battery is disconnected and then reconnected. My questions are
1) what is the breaker likely to be intended to protect,
2) where would the breaker be found, and
3) what is the likely cause of the breaker tripping (a short, but in what system)?
I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I took it to the dealership on June 30, for a routine oil change and other maintenance that was due. They did a cooling system flush, and oil change, a power steering flush, and a brake system flush, along with a multipoint inspection, and replaced the belt and tensioner. On July 18 on my way to work in traffic, the vehicle completely shut down with no warning signals. Shortly after the check engine light, the oil light came on. Until then, I had not noticed any warning lights.
At this time I reached down to get a bottle of tea from the passenger front floor board and noticed a slightly oily pink brown liquid on the plastic floor mat. When it was towed to the dealership, they tore the engine apart and reported that the engine overheated, the valve seats came off, the valves hit the pistons splashing metal onto the cylinder walls and requiring an engine rebuild. Is the dealership responsible for not having discovered whatever problem caused the engine to break down? Or causing it somehow during the maintenance on June 30? They feel it is not related.