Camry :: XLE V6 - Idle Getting Rougher When Stopped At Traffic Light
Jul 28, 2013
I'm at 55k and over the past 2k-3k miles I have noticed my idle getting rougher and rougher when stopped at a light. I took it to my garage and they cleaned the fuel injection system/throttle body/MAF sensor. When I got the car beck it felt a little better but the idle is still pretty rough.
Compared to my wife's '09 Sienna, it is a lot more noticeable that the car is on. I'm in Florida so the AC is on. When I put the car in neutral, the idle become smooth.
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I had water pump and belt changed by a Toyota Dealer on 2006 4 cyl Camry LE. Now the car idles a little rougher, gas mileage is down by around 20%, and there is some subtle chatter noise.
Before the car would idle quiet (could not hear it from inside car), now it is noisier with a little vibration- both in park and drive. Gas mileage is worse, and I am compensating for winter temps (no snow around). I fill the tank and reset mileage to check. The needle also confirms lower mileage too.
A little noise around belt or pump area but another mechanic said belt tentioner is fine, no need to replace. So what could the dealer have done to cause this? What parts/systems do they operate on? Dealer said car sounds o.k., can't hear anything unusual (of course).Is there anything I can check myself or fix myself? I may try an auto stethoscope when I get one. Just want the old car back. Car has timing chain, no belt.
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I have an 2008 camry le i4 and every time I'm stopped at a red, the idle is so rough. would the dealer know anything about it to fix it? My car's about 2 months old and has 4000 miles on it
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Why my Camry is stalling. Here is the situation: yesterday I had my battery disconnected for several hours while removing the seats from my vehicle so I could clean the carpet. When I put everything back together and reconnected the battery the car started up and ran without any problem. I then went out to run some errands and the car stalled while stopped at a stop sign. I put the car in park and it started right back up. Any time I come to a stop the engine idles to slowly.
I had this same issue a couple of years ago and a technician at my Toyota dealership said there was a sensor that needed to "learn" my driving habits (like how fast or slow to idle). The guy was correct and after a few days of dealing with stalling at red lights I have had no issues.
So I would like to know what this sensor is called and if this whole thing sounds right. To me it seems like a problem that the vehicle would want to stall. I could see myself getting rear ended by someone assuming I am going to make a turn when I am stalled.
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This is my brother's 02 SE. 140k miles. 4cyl. He claims that the car is beginning to idle rough when he is stopped at a stop light and the AC is on. If i replace the spark plugs should that do it? I'm pretty sure it doesn't have spark plug wires cus that's what my dealer parts dept said. Motor mounts were replaced around 70k if that matters. The vibration is directly related to the AC being on.
I am also going to replace the serp. belt because there's a belt squeak when the motor is cold.
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Was in town stopped at a traffic light when my 2003 Santa Fe just shut off. No warning, started right back up again, no CEL, no DTCs. Scary. I'm happy it happened with me driving the car instead of my daughter driving. Also happy it didn't happen on the highway.
I've had hard starting issues for a while now. Replaced crank sensor, it's fine for a few starts, then goes back to hard starting, but I hadn't had a problem in a few weeks.
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So this morning I was driving to work - normal driving no hard accelerations. As I stopped at a trafic light the car felt going into a limp mode? - engine started to misfire - no smoke from exhaust - but felt is was going to stall. Also the idle started fluctuate from low 600 to high 1100. At low RPMs the engine felt stalling but when I drove around 3000 RPM in 4, 5th gear felt fine.
I was able to plug in the APR dongle and got 7 fault codes: 1)DTC Not Found, 2) Idle Air Control System RPM HIgher than Expected; 3) Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected and 4,5,6 and 7) Cylinder 1,3,4,2 Misfire Detected.
I am APR 1+ with VWR CAI, 20K on 93 oct.
Coil? Injector? Manifold? HPFP?
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I stopped at traffic light and my car went off and won't start again. I had it towed home, it will jump start and keep on running as long as the jump start pack stays connected. As soon as i disconnect the jumpstarter it shuts off. There are no warning lights on the dash while engine is running. My guess is alternator is bad and car ran on battery till battery was discharged and the it stopped on the road. Now if this was the case shouldn't there be a battery and/or break warning light on the dash while car is running on battery?
Also if it were a battery problem then the car should run on power from the alternator once it's jump started right? In which case there should be a battery warning light on the dash right? I know the dash lights aren't bad because when i turn the key to the on position all the lights show up, including the battery light. I will like to take out the alternator and bring it the the shop for testing but before doing this I'll like some input since I'm not very convinced it's the alternator because there's no battery signal on the dash while engine is running on battery.
Car is: 2004 Nissan Murano AWD CVT trans106K Miles
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My wife drives a 2002 civic (mostly around town). when the car is at running temp.with the heater on and she gets top a stop sign or red traffic light, the heater starts to blow out cold/colder air. We took the car to a dealer and asked them to flush/fill the radiator and fix the problem. Well they flushed/filled the radiator and said "Yup, it still does it. Would you like us to diagnose the problem more for a minimum of 1 hour labor cost?" What could be the problem with the reduction in heat?
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My traction control light comes on sporadically when I am stopped at a light. Roads are dry and I have not hit anything. What is going on?
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My grandpa's old wood paneled station wagon is sick. The idle seems to be getting rougher and rougher with every time I kill the battery (I've somehow left my headlights on four times in the past two months and needed a jump). It's to a point now where if I don't throw it in neutral at stop lights and keep a tiny bit of gas on the engine it stalls out.
Notes:*When it first gets jumped after being dead, if I stop even for a second, it dies instantly.*While cruising - it is fine. *It idles smoother stopped in neutral than it does stopped and in drive. *It seems a bit rougher with the engine is cold, but still rough and can stall with the engine hot. *Some random times it idles just fine (like for example the first few seconds on start up, and then it sounds like the engine is decreasing in rpm automatically, and then it is rough again).
Could the dying battery and rough idle be related?? The battery guy says "if it starts fine, the battery is fine" (it does start fine, although keeping the radio on for 20 minutes without it running will kill it).
Also other problems with my car in case this has anything to do with it: *I have a leaky tail pipe*my ABS has recently been randomly engaging at low speeds (next problem to work on...)
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So I have a swb LS with right at 100k miles. drove great and got tires (same brand same model Continentals as the previous set) put on yesterday - right after that the car got noisier (mechanically, not because of the tires).
When I drive over 25-30mph it's like the car rattles...it starts "rougher" and is audibly noisier in idle now. The water bottle in my cup holder visibly shakes and did not do this before yesterday. What's weird I watched the guys install the tires, they never got close to anywhere under the hood..
Just to rule out the possibility, I had the tires remounted and rebalanced but of course same issue. Sounds like a noisy tranny or like I have an aftermarket muffler..have noticed a slight lag in acceleration (oil change at lexus 600 miles ago).
I got new plugs, air filter, coolant flush, diff fluid flush within the past 3 weeks and had no issue with the car until yesterday. My early suspicion is a motor mount or muffler-exhaust related issue?
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I have a 2006 Prius with about 215K miles on it that has started with a new symptom. When stopped at a traffic light, the engine will come on and idle fast, then turn off again. It continues to do this for a few seconds then stops. It will not do it again for a few days then it will repeat the problem.
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe. Within the last 2 months or so I have changed my timing belt, spark plugs, and all belts that needed to be changed. I notice that when I am idle at a traffic light, the car is a little rough or bumpy. Is this normal for its age, or should I be looking at something specific.
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Just turned 80k and recently noticed a bit rougher at idle. Other than that all has been fine. Plugs, etc. all original. Engine and VSC Light. Autozone ran the scan which turned up the above stated codes. They are defined as Evaporative emission control system pressure. He said it could be a loose gas cap. Checked it and its tight as a drum.
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2002 Toyota Camry
2.4 V4
My car has developed a rough idle when stopped and when accelerating. When I got the CEL, I had the codes read at Advance Auto.
The codes are P0301, P0302, P0303, P1349.
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2000 Ford ZX2 2.0 ....I've got approx. 79,350 miles on this car. I'm the original owner. The "Service Engine Soon" light came on. I took the the car to an Advanced Auto Parts store, they hooked up their handheld computer to the car and told me "it might be an oxygen sensor or poor fuel octane", he suggested adding an octane booster and see if the light stays off. I did that,but two days later it came back on, the idle seems a little ruff when stopped at a light.
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2010 Nissan rogue (42,500 miles) When the a/c is on and I'm stopped in traffic, with my foot on the brake the car shudders. There are times I feel like it will stall. I've had it to the dealer several times and they've told me the compressor puts a lot of strain on the engine. I have been in many other vehicles small and large and do not notice this.
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I have a 1997 Honda Civic with 275,000 miles on it. After driving for an hour or so, it starts getting hot when stopped or nearly stopped. It goes back to normal temperature when I start driving. It does cool down if I turn on the heater. I just changed the timing belt/water pump and put it a new radiator and changed the thermostat hoping it would solve the problem, but it hasn't. I checked and the fan does come on when stopped. Could it be a cooling system clog that a flush might be able to solve or might it be the head gasket?
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My 2007 Accent just quit running setting in traffic. Checked fuel pump fuses and relay, all ok. What else could it be? Has 100,000 miles on it. Just turned over yesterday.
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I have a 1998 Pontiac Sunfire. I keep up on her engine and have only experienced this issue one other time back in the fall or winter. Like that day, today I started the car and drove off without letting the engine warm up a little because I was in a hurry. It was fine on my way to my destination but on the way home (about 5 miles from my house) I hit a lot of traffic an pretty much caught every red light. About 1/4 of the way home, every time I stopped the car started acting like it was going to stall out. The best way to describe it, would be if cars breathed like we do and she was out of breath panting. She had no trouble accelerating and there seemed to be no problem when continuously moving, it was only when stopped. Like I said, she only did this once before on a cold night and I was stopping and going after driving without warming it. She hasn't had a tune up or new spark plugs in a long time and she's due for an oil change. My feeling is that it is fuel related? I dunno. To top it off, my dad is looking under the hood checking the fluids right now and he just informed me that someone must've hit my car because there is now a dent and scrape on the fender.
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