Camry :: Wiggles At Fast Speed
Aug 31, 2012
So i'm lowered on BC racing coilovers. never had a problem like this before. my tires went bald so i got new tires. after that when i drive on the freeway i can start feeling like my car is wiggling side to side. i thought it was cuz of my alignment or my wheels are off balanced so i did that today. i went to firestone got an alignment. then went back to where i purchased my tires (costco) and got my wheels balanced. I still feel my car "wiggling" sometimes on the freeway. it didnt wiggle my wheel but i just feel that my car is wiggling.
plus my frame has no damage. im lowered but not that low. never scraped the frame (only bumper) and never damaged the frame.
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So i just recently purchased my 2012 Toyota Camry SE V6 about a month ago. At first everything is great which it STILL is but lately I've discovered that I'm hearing a weird & SERIOUSLY IRRITATING noise/sound/rattle! Every time I drive between 10mph-40mph and it gets rapidly fast as I increase speed.. thats the RATTLE noise. I did my research and it said it can be a loose bolt or a loose heat shield underneath but I'd like some advice from Toyota Nation. Also when i make a slight turn I hear a weird clunking or some weird unexplainable noise. All in all this car is awesome .. smooth/FAST/comfy seats for me/agile/great on gas compared to my 2011 Camry 4 cylinder I had ..
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I noticed the driver side window in my car is loose. It wiggles on the track when rolled down 2-6 inches. You can also hear it in the door when the door is closed when it is rolled down all the way. It sounds like the windows on the old Trans Ams and Camros, which were always loise. It became loose between the first scheduled service and the one year service.
I mentioned it at the one year. The tech said all 4 2014 SE's had the same problem. He showed me it, too. He told me there was nothing he could do since its how Toyota made the car. And the other cars had the same problem. Since he said there was nothing he could do about it, I called Toyota to report it.
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I might be getting a 78 celica gt 5-speed and with the stock 2.2 ... It doesn't really go very fast and I am trying to figure out what I want to do to this thing. so far I kinda like the idea of shoving a 350 under the hood but i kinda wanna stick with putting a toyota motor in it.
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About 2 months ago i was driving and heard a clicking noise that would increase the faster i drove, i 1st thought it was something in the tire. after checking my right front tire and saw nothing was there for some reason i figured it was the brake.....so my personal mechanic the next day took off the wheel i told me i had to replace the braking kit because one of the pins was rubbing on the rotor, in the mean time he pulled it to try to realign it into place.....after he did that i realized the steering wheel shuddering when braking at highway speeds....figuring since i needed the braking kit that when replaced, this new problem would b solved.....braking kit replaced problem still there....
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My air conditioner is giving me problems. For some reason, when I drive around town taking short trips, my AC refuses to cool the car down. I've also noticed the "outside temperature" gauge displayed in the cluster shows the temperature about 20 degrees hotter than it actually is.
I noticed today while driving on the highway, once I hit 45mph or so, the cool air really started to come through. I've looked at it with a non-Toyota tech after driving around for about an hour, and when we're sitting and idling the low pressure pipe doesn't seem to get cool. After my ride today, I popped the hood when I stopped to check, and it was cool to touch, but not cold as I've felt on other cars.
We also checked the pressure within the system, and it's right on the money (so he says). What could be causing this? I know my AC has never really been as fast as other cars given I keep it in eco mode, but it literally blows warm air until I start going an an accelerated speed.
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Is there any way the front blower can be wired to run or spin FASTER? The rear blower in my 1997 spins fast enough but the front could use a 5th speed. I have interchanged blowers and Resistors from rear to front, but no change, both resistors and blowers are identical. I remember one time a residential a/c tech showed me how to rewire the air handler blower in my apt. to make it run faster and the result was amazing, though he did explain the life of the blower would be shortened, I never had any problem. Does the same principle apply to a 12V automotive blower?
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This problem started about 1000 miles ago, but has gotten more noticeable over the past few days (and 2 long trips). The car, when under way at all speeds, pulls to the right. If I release the wheel, the pull is immediate and direct, not like the usual "drift" that was there before. At slow speeds I can detect a "wobble" coming from the front end that I thought might have been a loose wheel. I checked the wheel as best I could, and it seems tight. As the speed of the car increases, the "wobble" feeling goes away. I am just left with having to correct the steering wheel slightly left to compensate for the pull to the right.
I seem to recall having a tire break a radial belt on another car which caused some similar issues, but it was a long time ago and I don't remember specifics. Brakes seem fine, wheel seems tight. I don't recall running over any bad potholes or anything like that. Tire pressures are equal. Whatever the problem is, it is not making any noises. No hum like a wheel bearing going or anything else identifiable. I'm thinking either a front wheel might have thrown a balance weight; I have a wheel out of round for some reason (or a tire out of round); or maybe something else.
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This happens to me again on a very hot day. The symptom is: all of sudden, the brake pedal becomes stiff. I mean I can only depress down the pedal just a little bit. Then when I want to accelerate, the engine works very hard and speed picks up very slowly. RPM will shoot to 3000. When I remove my foot from the gas pedal, the speed drops very fast. The car slows down much sooner than usual. So my feeling is the brake is dragging the car. The dealer cannot duplicate the problem during short test drive. So what can be wrong? The brake booster was replaced a few months ago. Is it possible it provides too much boost?
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Carburetor: Autolite 4100
Fast Idle Speed: 1250 RPM
Curb Idle Speed: 600 RPM (At normal operating temperature)
When I cold start my truck, the fast idle speed holds the throttle at 1500 RPM. I will let it idle about 30 seconds or so, and then I will tap the gas to bring the idle down.
When I do this, the idle will immediately drop all the way down, and too low for a cold engine. The engine won't stall, but it will hover just below 500 RPM, which is a bit too low to idle smoothly.
But when the engine is at operating temperature, the idle speed is 600 RPM and the engine will happily idle smoothly.
Shouldn't there be an "in between" speed? When I tap the gas pedal at 1500 RPM to bring the idle down some, shouldn't the speed drop down a little lower, like 1000 RPM since the engine is still a bit cold?
If so, what do I need to adjust? The Autolite 4100 works PERFECTLY otherwise.
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2008 Camry LE. It has 46,000mi on it now. I just had my 45k service done 2 weeks ago at the Toyota dealership where I purchased my car, and both the engine and cabin air filters were replaced ($$$). Today I had to revisit the dealer to deal with an annoying tire pressure warning popping up constantly, and after their performance of a 19-point inspection they told me my air filters were checked off as dirty (yellow box). They weren't trying to push new ones on me but it struck me as odd. How much dirt can actually get on brand new air filters in 2 weeks/500miles? and What criteria does someone check that off? They just visibly have some small amount of dirt on them and thats it?
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I have been experiencing some odd noises/wiggles/vibrations/growling/etc.... lately. I am pretty sure it's on the left (driver's side), but I can't seem to pin it down to front or rear. I am pretty sure my front brakes are trashed, as the inner pads were paper thin a month ago, and I haven't had time to change them yet ( new pads, rotors, calipers are already in my closet waiting to go on).
I went on a 100 mile drive the other day, and on the way down, and then coming home yesterday, the truck felt and sounded real weird. It wandered and had the noises described above. I jacked up the rear to check if I had bad axle bearings or something. Here's where I start to freak out. With the trans in gear,(6spd manual) both wheels off the ground, I can still turn the rear wheels. That shouldn't happen, right? Put the trans in neutral and turning the tires will turn the driveshaft. Trans in gear, the tires will turn free. There does seem to be a bit of "slop" when switching direction of rotation.
With the wheels off the ground, I ran the truck, in 1st and 2nd gear. It seems to turn the driver side faster, with the passenger barely turning.
For the time being, the rear axle is certainly still pushing the truck forward under power. With the wheels on the ground, truck on a hill, putting the trans in gear will stop the truck from rolling. This doesn't seem right? By the way, it is an "open" rear ( no limited slip). Between work and weather, I can't really do anything with it until the weekend. I just have to hope it holds up for the rest of the week, and a few hundred miles.
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I did my research and it turns out I need a relay switch for my blinkers. these bulbs are bright but flash too fast..
How do the relay switches work, what do i plug them into and do I need one relay switch per blinker?
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I have a 2011 Camry 4cyl with 226k miles on it, the last couple of days I have noticed a strange rattle at 2500-3500rpm from the engine area, only when the car is in gear, no rattle in N or P. I have also noticed that the engine oil and coolant have been disappearing at an alarming rate, I drove 200 miles yesterday and it went from the FULL to LOW mark, during the same drive the coolant went from mid mark between full and low to below LOW. As well, I don't notice any leaks or pink crusts around the water pump, the belts and tensioners appear to be in good working order.
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My roommate owns a 1987 Toyota Van. Those vans that have the Motor under your butt. Anyways, when we make a sharp turn (like fliiping) in either direction, we start hearing a thumping noise... It goes fast or slow depending on how fast your whipping around. We thought it was a CV joint, but, it looks like there isn't a CV Joint (Axel) Where to start to solve this?? Cause even when it goes down the highway you go into the curve and your really hear it.. The lug Nuts on the van are Tight, I've checked. We may think its a wheel barring..
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2003 F250 4x4 7.3L
While doing my brakes in the front, I tried to wiggle the front left, nothing. Solid. Then when I did the right, I was surprised to see it wiggle when I grabbed the tire. So I looked to see what was moving.
Not the U joint, not the ball joints, But it looks like what is a drive shaft.. (I am new to this stuff). On the right side a shaft comes out of the axle just before the U joint and the rest of the wheel assy. What is wrong?
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Picture if you will...Removed tire, caliper and rotor. Removed hub, and knuckle containing the stub shaft/spindle with it's yoke for the U joint. You are now looking at the end of the axle tube, with the axle shaft in it, one end connected to the differential carrier, the other end has the yoke for the U joint on it. Just inboard of the yoke, is a seal. Apparently it's called a "dust seal" is there a bearing behind this, or is the first bearing all the way in at the differential? When I was doing my brakes, I noticed the passenger side u-joint is shot, and the axle wiggles around in the dust seal. Figured I'd replace the seal while I was doing the U joint. Also, how do I get the axle shaft out? Just pull, or do I have to remove a C clip from the inboard end? What is the right National part number for the seal? I have a 6/2000 Excursion.
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I have toyota camry 2009. I have almost no issues besides when I'm trying accelerate to getting on highway and tap on acceleration pedal sometimes it takes up to 5 sec to start accelerate:as soon your tap on pedal , it kind of thinking for 2-3 sec then goes to lower gear and only then start accelerate. Is it normal behavior for the toyota's car? I heard toyota's not really maneuverable cars or it just mine like this? I'm worry in traffic even overtake cars in traffic,otherwise can be accident.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry with 110,000 miles that is burning oil too fast. A farm mechanic told me I should put thicker oil in it- straight SAE 30. It is a 4 cyl, 2.4 L Automatic. I had a oil and filter change less than 2 months ago, have driven maybe 2,000 miles. The oil is below the first dot. The manufacturer says to put 5W 20 oil in. I live in central North Carolina, so below freezing temperatures aren’t an issue. Last oil and filter change, they checked for leaks and they said it was clean underneath with none. Also, is it possible the car is burning the oil fast because I live in a warmer climate and I’m using the thinner oil? Is it ok to put the thicker straight SAE 30 oil in it? If yes, can I add it to what’s already there (5w 20)?
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I have a 2012 Camry SE I4. The problem is my car speed odometer is faster than my radar detector speed. I have 2 detectors and they are both not show the same speed compare to the speed odometer. For example, I am going 70mph, the detector reads like 67-68mph. So the speed odometer is off about 2-3mph. I have OEM size on my car. I know the GPS on my detector is more accurate. So my speed odometer has problem?
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On my 03 Camry (1MZ-FE engine) I noticed a few weeks ago that my engine wasn't coming up to temp as fast as normal. It was taking an additional 10-20min. Took it to my mechanic saying I had a potential faulty thermostat. They said they observed the thermostat opening and closing but coolant was a little low, which they topped off for me. Didn't replace anything or charge me for their services.
Now it's two weeks later and my CEL comes on. Take it to Autozone and I get codes P0128, P0420, P0430. So it would seem that my assumption was right on the faulty thermostat. But now I need to know how the other two codes are related to the thermostat. Based on what i have read, if the engine doesn't come up to temp right away, the computer will deliver more gas to the engine, thus creating a richer mixture, which in turn is not good for the catalyst system.
Could it be possible that just by replacing the thermostat (which i am going to do tomorrow) would cause the other codes to disappear? I'm thinking that I should, in this order:
- Replace thermostat
- Replace one (or both O2 sensors) (upstream or downstream first?)
- Replace converter
I've also read that you can offset the O2 sensors out of the exhaust stream to fool the engine, while still maintaining acceptable emission levels (due to Toyota having a higher than normal acceptable level).
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