Camry :: When Take Foot Off The Gas Car Doesn't Shift Smoothly
Dec 6, 2012
I gotta prob with my 08 camry 83k....I bought it two months ago and def didn't notice this so think its a new prob.. Whenever I take my foot off the gas the car seems like it doesn't shift smoothly... For example if I am going at 2rpms, I will take foot off, and go to 1rpm, and then it will jerk back up to 1.5 rpm..is this normal? The dealership tells me everything is fine and I am not so sure figured to consult with the pro's ...
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Picked up the T-Reg on thur. Black w/teak V-8.! Had the factor hitch installed? Service dept indicated a change was needed in the on board computer to adjust for the additional strain that towing will put on the drive train. What may have been changed?
The trans does not seem to shift as easy as when I drove it first, it could be just the amount of time that I spent in it on the test drive run. If you leave from a stop and try to leave smoothly it is a little harsh, not as smooth as the A-6 Avant with Tiptronic that we had.
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I bought a brand new 2016 Camry LE. Sometimes when car sits for a while, and I shift from P to R, there is a clunking noise with foot on the brake. I tried with the parking break engage and it still does it.
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I just swapped the 1.8 7a-fe for a fresher 1.8 7a-fe. Everything is properly assembled, but when I start it up it idles low and doesn't run smoothly. As if it weren't timed correctly... My buddy claims it is though, and he ran it with a timing light.
Another issue is black exhaust, I'm not sure if they bare any relation but I know black exhaust cannot be good..
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I have a 1997 Ford Explorer. Starting about 4 months ago I have had intermittent problems with it not wanting to start.When you turn the key the radio and dome lights etc. come on but it is dead silence from the motor.First time it happened we ended up replacing the starter solenoid. Next time we discovered that if you "jump" the 2 posts on the solenoid (using well insulated rubber handled pliers) while turning the ignition it will start every time.Took it to a local, reputable mechanic - he is baffled. They looked at every connection and wire they could think of.It is not the battery or solenoid, as best we can tell. It does not do it all the time. It will ocur, then it will start fine for 2 weeks then happen 3 times in a row, then not happenf for say another week or two.
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So i noticed recently. The speedometer needle would jitters/shake/doesn't move smoothly when driving around 110km/h to 120 km/h. Approximately 75 mph. I'm in 6th gear when this happens. I haven't tried down shifting to 4th or 5th to see what happens, but maybe i should try that. This happens while trying to accelerate. The car has barely any power at that point. If i stay at a steady speed, the needle doesn't jitter.
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I have a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. O2j trans obviously. It shifts not so smothly in any gear but stays in all gears fine. When the car is up to temp and the trans is warm it grinds going into second. It's ONLY when the car is warm. Shifts perfectly fine before that. And it's only when I shift from first into second. I can go from third to second just fine and I can pull out of first put into third without letting go of clutch and put it into second without a grind. I've changed the oil to Lucus oil 70w/90 gl-4 rated and there was absolutely no change.
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My camry has been great up until the last week. The weather has gotten extremely cold here and when I start driving in the morning or from any cold starts the transmission doesn't shift out of second gear. After I drive it a mile or so and slow almost to a stop it will shift normally until I park it.
It has 125000 miles on it and I hope this isn't a serious problem because it is a great car and has been well taken care of. Looks brand new on the inside and out and I've never had any problems until now.
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Hard time getting your manual MK6 to shift smoothly when the engine is cool after sitting overnight?? Got about 4k miles on it and I don't recall it happening when I first got it. Started maybe at 2k miles and happens every morning. It seems to only happen to me until the car warms up and then its fine, it jerks like if I was learning how to drive a manual.
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I have a 1999 ford ranger 4x4 with automatic 5r55e and it had problems shifting smoothly into third gear. I changes the valve body gaskets and the (rooster comb) detent lever. Now it shifts very hard and has on first second and passing gear.
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I'm sure this is a common issue, but I don't know exactly what to search for. I have a 2001 F250 7.3L. When I stop my truck, with my foot on the brake, the steering absolutely doesn't work. I replaced the PS pump, which it needed, plus all the hoses and it got better, but the no steer problem while braking is still there. I have seen that an upgrade in pressure hoses may work?
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I have a 2007 GS350 Lexus...my first Lexus...i love this car. The Foot Light and shift lever lights remain on expect when i turn the control panel lights completely off. (page 306, owner manual). Is that normal? How can i turn the foot and shift lever lights off without turning all the control panel lights off?
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Put foot on brake, selector in P it will start but will not shift.
Put foot on brake, turn key on, put selector in N it will start and shift R or D as normal EXCEPT do not shift to P as it will lock up and you have to start all over again.
Selector is basically aligned on the letters appropriately.
2001 F150 supercrew 5.4
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I have a 2003 Ford Focus with the Zetec 2L, 16 valve. When the car is warm and I put it in neutral or park and take my foot off of the brake it will occasionally shut off. Not stall, but shut off - as though I turned the key. This doesn't happen every time; it usually doesn't. I have no other drivability problems and there are no warning lights or engine codes. The ideas I have are:
- Vacuum/ brake booster leak
- MAF problem or dirty throttle body
- Something weird going on with the transmission shift interlock mechanism.
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I am having some issues with the brakes on my Camry squealing when I don't have my foot on the brakes. Its an intermittent issue and it doesn't start making the noise until Ive been driving for 15 minutes usually and mostly does it at speeds above 45 mph. If I gently put my foot on the brake the noise stops and as soon as I take my foot off the brake it starts again.
Also, if I drive for more than 30 minutes without using the brakes the noise gradually gets quieter and then goes away. Last winter I had the passenger side rear inner brake pad get worn down to the metal. I think the caliper slides had stuck, because they were hard to push in and didn't spring back. I put some grease on them and didn't have any noise for about 9 months and just recently the noise came back.
Now, I didn't use actual caliper grease, I just used lithium grease and Ive read recently that you need to use caliper grease because over time lithium grease will dry up. I've checked all of the brake pads and none of them is down to the metal or even worn down to a point where the scratches would touch the brake rotor and cause a noise.
In fact, about a month ago I replaced the front pads and the noise was still there. Now, here's my question: do that sticking caliper pins on the rear caliper would cause this noise and that I simply need to grease the pins?
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When I am driving along in my 2000 Toyota Camry 6 cylinder, and my foot is on the gas, my car slows down by itself. When this happens it sounds like gears are changing or like when you run out of gas, (the car is automatic and the gas tank full). After this happens the car speeds up again.
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I have an automatic 1992 940 GL and it has been almost a year since the head gasket blew in the car. The gaskets and everything have been replaced as well as the fuel filter, transmission pulley, and timing belt. The car seems to run fine except for a small problem with the gears. When driving it's like it doesn't want to shift into the next gear unless you let off the gas a little bit which then it shifts over fine and it does this for all for gears. It has also recently started back to stalling out at a stop light or stop sign but very rarely.
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I have been lately feeling that the engine heat is penetrating to the foot area of the cabin even when heater or blower is not running. Engine is running at normal temp as I monitor temp gauge all the time when I am driving.
Pulled out the carpet around clutch and surrounding foot area to see what is going on and found out 2 heater core pipes are running hot and dissipating a quite bit of heat when the blower is in off and cabin temp controller is in cold position. Is this normal, I believe when the temp controller is in cold position there should not even be hot coolant running to heater core from the engine? Could heater tap or temp control valve that stops engine hot coolant running to cabin/heater core be faulty? If so where are they located?
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Two days ago I had the front brake pads on my 2003 Toyota Camry LE replaced because they were squeaking when I stopped. That squeak stopped, but after driving about 15 miles, I heard a squeaking noise AFTER I took my foot OFF the brake pedal. Pressing the pedal makes the squeak go away. I took the car back the next day and they changed the front rotors. While driving home, the squeak returned. I took the car to my regular mechanic this time. He says the guys who installed the brakes didn't clean anything when they put the new ones on, so he disassembled everything, cleaned the rotors, etc. and put everything back together. He also said they put the wrong pads on the car - I need ceramic pads and they used the metallic kind. Well, the brakes are still squealing when I'm not pressing on the brake pedal and stop squealing when I do press it.
Characteristics of the squeak....It only seems to happen when I drive the car more than 5-10 miles. When I drive a short distance, it doesn't happen. The sound is rhythmic, not constant. If I step on the brake and let if off slowly, like at a stop light, I can hear it "squeak, squeak, squeak" as the tire rotates. The faster the wheel spins, the more constant the sound. It only seems to come from the driver's side.
I hate to take the car back to the original shop because I don't think they know what they're doing. I'm scared of getting ripped off at one of the big chains (I'm a female and of course whenever I take a car in for service at one of those places "everything needs to be replaced.")
Will Toyota ceramic pads fix the problem? Can the wrong pads cause the brakes to squeak when you're not stepping on the brake pedal? Someone else suggested it might be the caliper binding and that would require replacing it.
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So I have a 2005 Camry XLE, 3.0 l V6 with 160k miles. The car was running fine, but I decided to change the spark plugs today (overdue).
I went through the headache of removing the intake manifold, throttle body etc and everything seemed to go OK. I reassembled it all and now it won't idle properly.
It seems like a vacuum leak issue to me, but I have double checked the multiple hose connections. I did NOT disconnect the battery at any time.
I can Rev it up to 3 or 4000 rpm and it runs smoothly (all the cylinders seem to be firing) but it runs rough and dies without my foot on the accelerator. Also I noticed the exhaust manifold got cherry red like right now... after only a minute or two of running.
Are there any troubleshooting checks I can perform to narrow down the source of the vacuum leak?
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When I am driving along with my foot on the gas petal, the car slows down, it drags, (sounds like changing gears) then resumes speed all by itself. My friend told me he thought perhaps the gas was dirty and to get the gas filter changed. When I took it to the mechanic, he said my 2002 Toyota Camry six cylinder, automatic did not have a gas filter. The problems still exists.
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