Camry :: When Slowing Down Tranny Shifts Down - RPM Jumps From About 900 To 1200
Jun 24, 2014
I just bought 2011 Camry 23K miles, L4 engine and 6 sp auto trans. Experienced strange downshifting - when slowing down the tranny shifts down, so the RPM jumps from about 900 to 1,200 and the cycle repeats for the next gear. Feels almost like the car is getting ready for the (possible) acceleration. It mostly happens when I am coasting, not when I am breaking. I already disconnected battery for the few hours to reset transmission shifting points memory.
I have seen "transmission flare up" tread about V6 engine + 6 sp tran combination, but it is not it.
I also have 2009 Camry with 5 speed 170K miles, and it shifts so nice you could not tell what gear you are on; and have 2009 Highlander.
View 9 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2011 camry se 4cyl with 15k miles. Just wanted to know if you have to change Trans Fluid because my tranny shifts hard between gears.
View 3 Replies
When cool to cold my 13 2.5L Camry SE 12k miles has shifts that are 'crisp' (not meaning that is good). It I s like it rides up to an rpm and throws on the clutch and the RPMs drop by 200rpm and then she pulls into gear. No slamming but feels like a sports car driver changing gears with just a moment of that 'transition float' between gears cause by physically moving a clutch pedal. An actual noticeable shift feeling and a moment of floating 1/2 second transition. Is this 'flare'?
I guess I could just say this... It feels like it is truly 'going between gears' rather than the typical slush sliding into gear like most all automatics do.
View 4 Replies
2001 T&C with 3.3, 4speed tranny and 128K miles.
Here's an interesting one: This morning I went went to get gas and no problems getting to the gas station. I pull out of the gas station and get to the first light, again no problem. Light turns green, I go and the tranny shifts from 1st to..... nothing! Just like I slipped it into neutral. I coasted into a parking lot, moved the gear selector from Park to R to D to L, and nothing.
I put it in Park and shut off the engine, then restart and shift into drive and it goes into gear! I start to drive away and when it's time to shift, it goes from 1st to.... nothing again! Once again none of the gears work, until I shut the engine off and restart.
After I restarted the engine I shifted to L and drove home in 1st gear keeping an eye on the tach so I wouldn't exceed 3500 RPM. Got home with no problem.
So, to recap, when it goes to shift up from 1st it goes into nothing. Just like neutral. No check engine light, not "limp mode". If I shut off the engine and restart, it'll go into 1st, and if I keep it in L so it won't try to shift up, it'll drive all the way home in 1st. Reverse doesn't work no matter what I try.
Some background: I changed the tranny fluid and filter 2 years ago at around 90K. fluid level is good. It did rain hard last night, conicidence? The engine compartment is dry.
I think it is safe to rule out a mechanical problem, this seems to be electrical and we can probably rule out the tranny range sensor since it keeps it in 1st when I have it in L and the backup lights come on when I put it in R.
View 4 Replies
I have a V6. When I just want to slowly get going I very slowly depress the pedal and hold, or leave off when speed is reached. Tranny shifts at low rpms, not much acceleration. I have completely avoided kickdowns, which exhibit a bit of a lag. When I really need to get going quickly off the line I steadily press the pedal more quickly than for a slow start. The effect is quite remarkable; tranny holds gears until about 4,000 or 5,000 rpm, and the car really moves. When I need to accelerate and I'm already moving I always shift into sport or I use the TIP.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2006 Nissan Sentra with about 58k miles on it. When it shifts into gear I hear a slight squeak, almost like a bushing or something like that. It does not sound mechanically related. More of something squeaking or loose etc.
View 9 Replies
I just picked up a new 2006 Touareg V6 with package 4 Offroad Gray with all the fixin's. I'm still learning all the features of the car, I'm finding more and more innovative functions every day. I did have one "concern" that I have been noticing as I drive around, the transmission seems to want to hunt for a gear... sometimes when accelerating the tranny seems to get confused and shifts up and down suddenly before settling on a gear.
Also, this morning when I put the car in R, it wouldn't lock into reverse, it was stuck in neutral before it dumped into the reverse gear violently. The other thing that I have noticed is that it sometimes locks in gear when moving, it'll hold a low gear and not upshift when it should or it'll hold a tall gear and not downshift (for example it'll be in 6th gear even when I slow down to 20mph and then when I try to speed up it'll stay in 6th gear).
I believe this car is drive by wire and it's the first one that i've ever driven.... i've driven other autos before but they have been much smoother and more "direct" then this tranny. I did have an audi before this and that also wasn't the smoothest auto tranny either, it also seemed to have a mind of its own. Have people had these kinds of problems before and should it be something I should be concerned with or take back to the dealer with my concerns? It is a brand new car, i bought it with less then 30 miles and it has only 400 now. I love everything else about the car, the interior is top notch and the fit and finish is excellent so far, my only concern is the tranny.
View 12 Replies
I just had my tranny rebuilt it doesn't shift hard all the time but it does from time to time going from 2nd -3rd and 3rd -4th I thought being new it may need to soak up some fluid so the bands can swell so I ask the shop that rebuilt it that question he said they soaked them as they rebuilt it so they should be swollen already then he proceeded to tell me it was electrical is he telling me the truth because the ck engine light isn't showing any faults and if it was electric shouldn't that have been fixed in the shop while it was being rebuilt if it was interior electronic?
View 1 Replies
After they flashed the TCM (vin 34000). Did not notice this before flash. Mild acceleration in a continuing curve to the right as the tranny shifts to 5th wheel pulls sharp to the right. Like a strong twitch. Also does it in left turn but not as strong. Didn't really bother me (driving wife nuts though, and its her car) in the dry, but Sat. nite on snow/ice scared bejaysus outa me. Felt like I was going to spin. If I lift before shift to 5th it doesn't happen. "Twitch" is about like you would to to miss something in the road. Maybe not that strong. Car thinks continuing radius curve is a decreasing radius turn. Not good. Haven't found the right road to try it under hard acceleration
As an aside, Contis worn out evenly at 10,000 miles. Granted, I did remove a few pieces from them this summer, but overall tread is gone.No binding feeling on dry pavement. It does "crab", or bind at slow speeds tight turns on snow/ice, but so does my Yukon XL in 4wd Auto mode.Have to visit dealer anyway. Service fault workshop light came on a few times. Restart and it went away. And dash wood cracked.
View 3 Replies
My tranny guy just did a full scan and the ONLY thing which indicated a problem was 'output speed sensor' which we were able to trace back to most likely being caused by a completely hosed driveshaft (I've noticed a driveline vibration). We're going to install a new driveshaft, replace the output speed sensor(s), check for any frayed/chaffed wiring going to the output speed sensor(s) and then see where that leads us (he said something about some computer module in the dash which he's had to replace on several Sooper Dooties).
View 7 Replies
'00 PSD w/ 291k on the clock. Starts easily, runs good, only complaint is (what I consider to be) the soft shift of the tranny. Years ago, when I bought it, it came with a Super Chips Tuner. I've never max'd it out, just usually run on the performance tow. Is there any way to clean up the shifts and make them a bit quicker with less slip. When it's time to shift, dammit, I want it to "SHIFT", not slide into gear. I don't expect it to hit the gears like a manual valve bodied drag car tranny. But, there should be something to fix this without spending a bunch of $$$..
View 4 Replies
I have a 2008 GC 6 speed transmission that has 55000 miles on it. When the engine and tranny is cold the transmission shifts very hard until it warms up. There are times when shifting from reverse to drive it shifts very hard. Also, the siding doors creak when driving over rough roads. Can they be adjusted?
View 2 Replies
I have a 2000 Ford Explorer with 188,000 miles on it. I bought it used with 110K miles and put a new tranny in at that time. Now, I am having problems. I don't know if it's the tranny or the engine. It looses power when climbing hills. It takes off really slow with no power and finally gets up to speed it switches gears the whole time smoothly but the engine just can't take a load.
The check engine light came on and put out 10 codes:
P1451 EVAP Control System Canister Vent
P1747 Electronic Solenoid A-Short Circuit
P0743-Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P0750-Shift Solenoid "A"
P0755-Shift Solenoid "B"
P0760-Shift Solenoid "C"
P0765-Shift Solenoid "D"
P0135-O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
P0155-O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
P1409-EGR Vacuum Regulator Circuit Malfunction
Those are the codes and I don't know how one has anything to do with the other. I checked the dip stick on the tranny and it's clean. Juicy red and not shavings.
View 4 Replies
Cold starts only (warm starts completely fine), typically the rpm jumps to 2k or so then slowly climbs down as engine warms up. However recently one in ten start ups the rpm will jump to 2k then immediately drop to 1.5k (sounds like a drop in rev engine) or so. Engine does not shake or stall and still starts fine. Throttle body is cleaned and spark plugs were all replaced. However I cannot remember if this started happening before throttle body was cleaned or if its not related with it at all. Battery is fine too or according to battery charge test. I don't see any loose hose that were taken off while getting to throttle body. I recently tried fuel injector cleaner but didn't make much difference (only 1 application though).
View 5 Replies
My 2003 Camry loses power and starts to hesitate or miss-like under load, but when cruising along not under load it runs smooth. There is no check engine light coming on.
I have changed the fuel pump and fuel filter in the tank.
I have changed the spark plugs.
I have added injector cleaner and fuel treatment to the fuel.
I have cleaned the air filter and air filter compartment.
View 7 Replies
I am getting to the point with this car that I can't stand driving it This thing where the transmission downshifts as I slow down and come to a red light is the most obnoxious feeling I've ever experienced in a car. What's worse, is when I go to speed up again and it's in the middle of one of its downshifts and hick up so bad it feels like it's can fall out of the bottom of the car. I'm done trying to deal with Toyota dealerships, all they do is tell me that Toyotas don't have transmission problems and that my car is fine unless it kicks on a light.
I feel like if this transmission was reprogrammed to act more like a normal transmission Like the electronically controlled transmission that was in the 1995 Alexis that I sold a few months ago, or my wife's 2006 solara or the 2008 I asked to 50 I used to have, the car would be fine. But this thing is neurotic, jerky, and unpredictable.
View 10 Replies
My transmission slips when I'm slowing down and I take my foot of the brake. It doesn't always do this but it's still a concern . I have about 42k 12 i4i4 ....
View 4 Replies
My ALT is making a bad whining noise and when I disconnect it, the noise stops. it also seems to be slowing down the engine if that's possible.
The batt voltage is the same with the car running or stopped. no cell, batt idiot light comes on at startup and goes off like the rest of the warning lights.
This is the 2006 2azfe 4 banger.
I believe its gotta be a diode pack shot. Is it difficult to replace the pack or should I just get a rebuilt one? The Haynes doesn't show how to disassemble the alt and replace anything but I should be able to do it. would I also need to replace the brushes at the same time?
View 11 Replies
My Car has 86k miles on it. I went in last week to get the Torque Converter warrantied and replaced. It would shudder when slowing down back into first gear. After I got my car back it seemed to be worse than how it was, also the alignment was terribly off... I called the service manager, he told me to bring it in the following Wednesday... Over the weekend the car stalled 3 times.
I pulled codes P1603 (Engine Stall History) and P1605 (Rough Idle/Knock Control CPU) which were VERY generic. They also broke my Intake Air Box Clips and Latches. I dropped the car off for 2 days and got a free TRAC (Toyota Rent a Car). After picking up my car they said it stalled 2 more times... They told me they realigned the car and reset the ECU, but they should have reset the ECU after the Torque Converter Replacement. It also threw a P0302 too. It still shudders when slowing down till this day.
Is there some sort of number I can call to talk to Toyota Direct and get this situation solved? Dealer doesn't seem to care...
This really isn't the first time I've had trouble with this Dealer. I had an 04 Solara go in for a Dash Replacement and they scratched the Radio and put a hole into my tweeter. This 2012 Camry went in for an Airbag seat sensor recall and the hit it against another car. It left a terrible dent. I don't want to have a transmission failure prematurely...
View 1 Replies
'02 SE!!! It came with issues needing to be fixed and I'm more than happy to do it... but 2 current issues: Front brakes and O2 sensor/check engine...
BRAKES: When slowing down from highway speed, the front end shakes and the steering wheel moves. I'm guessing bad rotors, as I've had the issue before and that was it. I want to do the pads and rotors and call it a day...
But I don't want to buy crap and I know that's mainly what I tend to find at the drop of a hat, so I have to order something anyway.
O2 SENSOR/CHECK ENGINE: The code which is coming up is "P0420" and when I researched that, it came up as being either the O2 sensors or the cat. I'd like to know which O2 sensor is the UPSTREAM, which is the DOWNSTREAM, and if there's a way to test the sensors on the car currently to find out if they are in fact bad.
I've also heard a bit more exhaust noise than I'd like to hear out of the car (like a leak), but it isn't howling yet. Is there a chance that a leak in the flexpipe/downpipe/etc could lead to throwing this code?
View 7 Replies
I have a 4 cylinder '98 Toyota Camry with 82k miles on it. I got the car second hand from a family friend 7 months ago. About 3 months ago, my engine would sputter and then shut off when I'd start slowing down below 30mph and stopping at lights after I'd been on the interstate. Issue occurs only when I've accelerated quickly during that drive (ie accelerating hard to go up a hill to merge or to pass a slow car).
When I need to stop, if I'm fast enough to get the gear in neutral, hold down the break and rev the engine at the same time, then it most likely won't shut off. It's like trying to do CPR on my car... The spark pugs have been replaced, oil changed, and fluid levels checked but the problem still happens. What could be the problem??
View 2 Replies
