Camry :: Vibration Starts At 3rd Gear?
Jan 21, 2014
2005 Toyota Camry 3.3 automatic trans
No codes or lights currently on.
When driving I notice a shuddering feel when going highway speed plus. Feel the vibration when accelerating or maintaining speed.
I put the car on the lift and:
1st gear up to 55 no shudder
2nd gear up to 65 no shudder
3rd gear up to 60 to 80 shudder
Happens from here on in
The whole car vibrates. I do not feel any lack of performance when this happens. I don't feel hesitation or shift issues. Shifting is smooth. The engine does not move when putting in gear. However when I brake the whole thing jumps. This is while it is in the air.
Engine mounts, drive shaft, or cv transaxle?
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I have a vibration in my 2009 Camry. It is felt mainly in the seat/floor, not the steering wheel or dash. I had the tires balanced, didn't fix it. Had them do a road force balance, didn't fix it. Then I was told I had a bent rim, replaced it, didn't fix it. Then I was told it was the tires, replaced all four, didn't fix it! Luckily, the great guys at Discount Tire put my old tires back on and didn't charge me a dime. At the end of my rope...
What could be causing this vibration? No noise detected so I don't think it's the bearing. The vibration is not really obviously until I reach 65 MPH. Then between 70 and 80, the vibration is at it's worst.
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Purchased a 2009 XLE Toyota Camry V6 on 11/15/2011 with 13,562 miles. Noticed a vibration that starts around 65 mph, the faster you go the more noticeable the vibration. Made an appointment for the selling dealer to address the vibration. Dealer balanced four tires however this is what was noted on the invoice.'vibration from rear end at 65 and up' (my comments when dropping off the car). Comments from servicing dealer 'balance all 4 tires - may feel some vibration-tires choppy'. Where would you suggest I start? Who should I talk to at the dealer? Am I in a position to have them replace the tires? I have contacted the salesperson to keep her abreast of the situation. Current mileage 15,100.
Tire Make and Model: Sumitomo HTR T4 - the tires appear brand new.
Tire shop balanced (said the selling dealer did not do a very good job balancing the tires), rotated and performed an alignment. Tire shop stated the front passenger tire is cupped. Manager figures the previous owner did not do any maintenance on the OEM tires so the selling dealer installed new tires on the car due to premature wear. The vibration is better but still obvious and annoying. Said there is a possibility the cupping will go away as more miles are accrued on the tires, but until then the ride will not be smooth.
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I have a 4 cylinder 2003. When we drive on the street less than 40 miles per hour all is fine. But when we go faster than 40 a bad vibration starts and gets worse the faster we go, but only when you step on the gas pedal. For example, if your doing 50 and step on the gas there is a bad vibration from the front but if you release the gas pedal there is no vibration.
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I have a 2005 camry 4cyl my daughter was driving, she said it became difficult to get it into gear. The car does have 200,000 miles never had clutch problems. I can get it in gear when the engine is turned off. when it starts no gear can be engaged. I bleed the slave cylinder but no air . the slave master is not leaking. I turned the rod on slave master and when I started it the clutch was engaged. I am lost, I am used to working on old cars but I do not know if its a clutch that it needs to be replaced or what.
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I have a 93 Camry V6 every time the car moves from a dead stop it feels like it starts from 2nd gear...
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Toyota 2009 camry V6 Engine ( 55,000 Miles ) Vibration in cabin while in gear and also heat build-up on the centre console just to the rear of the gear selector and took it to the Toyota dealer 2 times and they say the vibration is normal ( looks like they don't know what is the problem or don't want to admit it ) .. and the Engine is very smooth till 2 months back and it is annoying even the Water bottles and the Cell phone vibrate when I put it in the cup holders ..
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I have a 2012 SE I4 with 500 miles on it. I have noticed that while sitting at stop lights, the car vibrates slightly and I can feel it on the seat since day 1. It gets better if the AC is on. I would expect that when stopped and sitting at a stop light, the car should idle smoothly and not notice the engine. If I put in N or P, I don't feel the engine running at all either through steering wheel or the seat. Is it normal? It is really annoying me since the car is less than a week old.
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I own a 2004.5 PG GLI. The vibration starts at 55mph and gets worse from there. 75mph and you can hardly hold onto the steering wheel.
Some history, I bought the car in feb of 2013. When I got the car it drove fine. It was super low so I raised it a bit. The trans had the input shaft bearing issue so I got a reman trans, while I was there I put a new clutch and flywheel in. Since then the car has never driven right, feels like the tires are really out of balance.
Recently I took the car to the place I got the trans from and they told me the motor mounts were not aligned right, the subframe was bent, the bushings in the control arms were not in correctly, and some other small stuff. Ok, no biggie...? I fixed all this and still have this vibration that I never had before. The tech also told me the alignment was way out cause the car pulls hard left when you give it a good amount of gas. I had the car aligned the day before..
At this point I had replaced:
Ball joints
Wheel bearings
Clutch, flywheel
Trans
Left axle
Strut bushing - usrt race
Now I am onto replacing the subframe and junk. Long story short here is my current list of repairs.
Trans
Clutch,flywheel
Both axles
3 different kinds of wheel bearings-*** are currently in.
Ball joints
Inner and outer tie rods
R32 Control arm bushings
Front rotors and pads
Caliper slid pin rubbers
Subframe and bushings
Coilovers- put konis on, took fks off
Pretty much I have replaced the whole front end. All repairs are done by the book, correct tq specs and replacing hardware when needed.
You're thinking tires cause I have yet to talk about them. I have two sets of wheels and tires. My aftermarkets are 18x8.5 and then I have the factory bbs. I feel the vibration with both sets, the aftermarket are slightly worse but the greater rotating weight with wheel and tire comb I believe is why they are worse. I have had the wheels balanced twice and the car aligned twice. I had the car at a very well known shop in md that works with vw yesterday and they where clueless on the issue. Said maybe wheels and tires but that did not add up cause they balanced out fine.
Nothing I have replaced has made the vibration better or worse. Can you install the flywheel 180 out? It was lined up and went in fine.. Clutch install went beautiful, trans install was normal. Whys the car still pull hard left after being aligned?
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1999 Volvo XC AWD. There is a vibration beginning around 65 mph and continuing on up. Most pronounced at about 70 mph. It feels like when running over the little bumps in the highway designed to let you know you are straying too far off the road, but not as strong. Also no accompanying sound. I have take it to my favorite garage and they diagnosed it as an inner front CV joint. I replaced that as well as left/right control arms (they were worn) and replaced the drive shaft (also needed). The vibration continues and we are all stymied at this point. I also tried switching tires from this car with another Volvo. That did not work, so I have ruled out a bad tire/rim.
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i have a vibration that starts about 45mph."When i put it in neutral it still vibrates". I did check the universals. Rig has 195,000 miles on it. Manual trans. It must be lifted because im running 265/7516s on it. Ive been busy changing fluids and such so i have been underneath it but didnt look for lift or factory.
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I have a vibration that starts at about 25 mph and continues to at least 80 mph. The vibration itself isn't too bad - buzzing in the floorboards, seats, etc - but it's accompanied by a very annoying low frequency growl. It is only present under load, when I lift off the accelerator the vibration/noise go away entirely.
I rotated the tires, I also changed out the rear diff fluid and saw nothing out of the ordinary there. This pretty much leaves u-joints unless someone has other thoughts. The rear u-joints were last changed 53K miles back.
'02 Excursion Limited 4WD, 7.3L Powerstroke, 292,000 miles ....
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I have a 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier. I've been getting a pulsing vibration which feels like the left front. It starts at about 40mph and gets worse the faster I go. The vibration completely goes away with the slightest left turn on the freeway. It vibrates on acceleration and deceleration, in neutral and in gear (5spd manual). I've currently replaced the front struts, strut mounts, pads and rotors, left front wheel bearing, tie rod ends, had the front end aligned and the tires balanced.
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I currently own a 2000 F350 Lariat 7.3 4x4 and a 2001 Excursion Limited V10 4x4. The Excursion has a vibration that starts around 60 mph. What I've done so far...Replaced all 4 brakes (rotors and pads)..
Replaced wheels and tires (I bought new ones for my f350 and put the ones that came off the f350 on the excursion, so I know they were balanced and smooth)
Replaced the front axle (I put a dana 60 on my f350, so I put the front axle that came off the f350 on the excursion... again, I knew it was in good shape with good ball joints, tie rods, etc.)
Had the front end aligned
Finally, today, I replaced the ujoint on the rear driveshaft at the pinion (I discovered the old one was broken).
Through all these changes, the vibration has changed by degree but never gone away completely. Today, I had a bit of a revelation, and would like any input.
It has come to my attention that some excursions were given a double cardan rear driveshaft, mine included, and some had what I would call a standard driveshaft (one ujoint on each end). From what I know, with a standard driveshaft, the pinion should be angled parallel to the transfer case output shaft. However, on a double cardan driveshaft, the pinion should be angled "in-line" with the driveshaft. I measured mine with a digital level and the pinion is angled parallel to the transfer case output shaft.
My only two possible conclusions are 1) all the rear axles that went into the excursions were set up the same way, so the excursions that got a double cardan rear driveshaft are "wrong" or 2) at some point in my truck's history the driveshaft was changed but the pinion was never corrected. Need info on how the pinion is angled?
So finally, my question is, can re-angling the pinion with wedges or by cutting and re-welding the perches to get rid of vibration? Am I on the right track?
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I have just purchased a 2013 f150 supercab 5.0.. Truck has 53000 miles on it. I have known the original owner. It has a brand new set of Michelin tires as it had on it from the factory, same size and same model.
I have taken the truck in and had the tires rebalanced twice as I increase the road speed to 45 mph the vibration starts and is felt in the seats and increases and gets really bad at 55 mph then it decreases a little but still vibrates up to highs speeds.
If I look in the rear view mirror the left rear fender looks to be moving up and down and the right rear fender looks not to have any movement. What to look for?
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2010 F150 lariat 4x4 with 18" stock wheels. Rides like a dream up to 80, then it starts to vibrate.
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I notice it happens driving between 20-30 mph and accelerating very slowly. Rpm around 1500. The tranny changes gears up to to 3rd or 4th gear and the vibration starts. If i accelerate, it goes away. During quick acceleration I never notice this vibration. Also if I drive the car in manual and go thru the gears i never notice the stutter. The problem feels like driving a manual car in a higher gear at a low speed and need to downshift.
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I have this annoying vibration that starts at 85-90 mph and stays relatively constant above that, but doesn't get super intense or feel like the car is going to fall apart. Its a light vibration that I can feel at 9 and 3 on the steering wheel.
Background: So about 6 months ago I realized my CV boot was torn. I tried to replace CV joint, but they sent wrong joint(Meyle) so we ended up trying to force it onto the CV shaft for like an hour before giving up. I remember one of my BMW Technician buddies literally smashing the joint onto the shaft with a plastic mallet but it just wouldn't go over the circlip.
We ended up just replacing the boot and putting the old CV joint back on, but we didn't have any extra grease to put in it because we had already put it into the new joint that wouldn't fit. Since then I've basically tried everything I can think of, including:
-Balanced and Road Forced
-Laser Alignment
-Replaced all 4 tires
-Fixed bent rims
-Refreshed suspension/steering:
-All new F+R LCA bushings
-New inner/outer tie rods
-New ball joints
-New sway bar bushings
-New strut top mounts
So what the hell is keeping her from being smooth as butter over 90? Did we screw up the shaft by beating on it? Or is it just vibrating from the lack of grease/damage from torn boot? Was I supposed to align the shaft when putting it back on or something?
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I was wondering if a bad/leaking steering rack would cause a clunking sound when turning. Also if the rack is bad how many hours should it take to change?
When I am making turns I hear a clunking noise coming from the passenger side and the boot has oil on it but the fluid in the reservoir doesn't seem low.
When I am driving there is a lot of vibration and when I go over 60 the front end starts to wobble.
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My 2003 F-250 5.4L 2WD has a front end vibration that starts around 40MPH (sometimes) and gets gradually worse until it goes away at 55 MPH. It oscillates the wheel a good 3/4"-1". It also does it also when decelerating through those speeds. It "feels" like the left side, but I can't be sure. When I jacked it up, I could get some movement laterally on the left wheel, but not the right. Also Noticed that the drive shaft has about 1/4" of play at the carrier bearing. Leaning towards ball joints.
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My 2001 Prelude (not SH) develops a vibration felt throughout the car and particularly the steering wheel after several minutes of constant highway (60 - 75 MPH) speed travel. Thought it might be a brake caliper sticking, but the car does not pull left or right. After 7 or 8 minutes of vibration, it stops and the ride is smooth as glass.
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