I 've been experiencing a vibration, or rumble in my 2006 Camry. It would happen around 40-45mph or when decelerating. Once it got into top gear it would go away. Two weeks ago I turned off the overdrive and the problem stopped. Now, I keep it off in the city and turn it back when on the highway.
View 7 RepliesI have been chasing this vibration that seems to happen around 50 to 60 mph. It seems to be the last 2 gears in the transmission. It's not really a chatter, but more like a drive line vibration. At 70mph it goes away completely and is smooth as glass.
I have had the driveshaft rebuilt once, and just recently balanced. I am convinced it is not in the driveshaft. While it was being balanced the tech removed the harmonic balance r weight that was on the rear part of the shaft. Now the vibration seems magnified.
I was thinking it may be the clutch that is incorporated in the torque converter. Is there any way to disable the clutch just to see if it is the cause of the vibration? The truck had a lift and big tires on before I got it. It is now back to stock. It's a 2005 F250 crew cab short bed 170k miles.
When I pick up my car I feel this vibration coming from my wheels. It only happens around the first and second gears. Once the car is fast there is no more issue. It also doesn't happen when I pick the car up slowly. If I go even a bit fast I hear this rotating like noise and vibration. What it could be?
View 5 RepliesI am experiencing a slight rumble-strip-like vibration/noise when veering to the right. There is no noticeable vibration when driving straight or to the right - sounds like it's coming from the front. I thought it was my tires but had them rotated with same symptoms/ I first noticed this shortly after I had them rotated in July. So it's probably front suspension.
View 3 RepliesRecently leased a 2014 Nissan Sentra SL It has 800 miles on it now. Immediately I felt a slight vibration when coming to a stop. It is intermittent happens about 50% of the time. Brought it to my dealer and he said he couldn't feel the problem on the test drive, if it persists come back to him.I plan on going back to service next week. As I apply the brakes it slows down smoothly but just before coming to a complete stop is when it vibrates. Most people say my car has warped rotors causing this,My question is: How can a brand new car with 10 miles on it have warped rotors?
View 13 RepliesI've traced the problem to the starter/solenoid. Battery is good, all dash light power up, but when turning the key to start nothing happens. There is 12v at the signal wire on the solenoid when the key is turned to start. Hitting the starter with the handle of a hammer will get it to engage.
I believe the problem is the solenoid, although it could be the brushes on the actual motor. I've attached a picture of the starter. It looks like the solenoid is a sealed unit; i.e. I can't replace the contacts like the older generation starters. If in fact you can't take apart the solenoid, advice on replacing the solenoid vs. the entire starter? Car has ~125000 on it.
I'm getting a vibration through the floorboards when I take my foot off the gas at high speeds. It has a low-pitched (like a subwoofer) hum to it. It's amplified when I go over dips and the suspension compresses, but doesn't exist when the car is in neutral.
(2009 LS, AWD, 120k miles, stock tires/wheels)
Has any ls600 owner noticed a small vibration/shudder when they decelerate (without braking) on the highway ? It may be only a hybrid issue even during normal operation as the electric engine are recharging the battery.
View 14 RepliesSo I just developed a slight vibration in the steering wheel and the floor last week. It happens when I drive with my foot barely on the gas or coasting. If I punch it, the vibration goes away. Also, if I punch it from a stop and take my foot off the pedal I can hear a knock as the car lurches starting to decelerate and its only one knock. I thought it might be the driver side strut bushing because I recently replaced the passenger side but not the driver. So today I replaced the driver but that did not solve the problem. I have fairly new tires all around. I am not sure if it is tie rods or cv joints. All my boots on the cvs look good. What to check. Oh maybe also motor/trans mounts???
View 5 RepliesLike the title says. All of a sudden when I put the car in reverse I got a rumble and the car vibrates some.
View 41 RepliesI have an 08 F250 supercab 5.4L that I bought this past July. The truck has 153000 miles on it now it had 150000 when I bought it. I don't drive it every day just usually on weekends and when I need the truck. The truck was really well maintained and had all the work done at a local ford garage. I live in western pa and lately it has been pretty cold and snowy so I have been using the 4x4 more than I normally would the past few days. My wife was driving the truck the day before yesterday and had it in 4x4.
The past 2 nights it has been really cold right around 0 degrees. I drove the truck yesterday and it just didn't seem right when I first drove it almost like there was a tire going flat or a flat spot with one of the tires. I got out and checked and everything seemed ok but it was still doing that. I saw that the passenger side hub was still locked while the drivers side was on auto and I was in 2 wheel drive. When I got home I sprayed the hubs down with PB Blaster and tapped on them with a rubber mallet. I put the truck back in 4x4 and drove it down my road to the end then put it back in 2 wheel drive and reversed down the road. When I got back into my driveway and checked the hubs were both in auto so all was good. T
he only thing now is when I am driving everything is normal but when I start to brake or decelerate I get a humming noise like you would get with off road tires on the highway. I wouldn't say that it is that loud but definitely noticeable and there is a vibration in the floor in the front along with the humming. When I am going really slow decelerating you can also hear a noise similar to if you would spin one of those wheels with the metal pegs at a carnival or something to win a prize.
I am still getting used to my new Prius, just have a little over 700 miles on it. I recently noticed something very strange with the car - if I am in "Ready" with ICE off, and I put it in drive and release the brakes, but do not press the accelerator, the car will slowly move forward, just like a regular auto transmission. After about 1 second the speed will reach about 2 mph and I can feel a very small rumble in the cabin and a very light vibration on the steering wheel. It sounds like a very low frequency bass, and it lasts for less than a second.
It goes away and the car continues to accelerate up to about 5mph (the accelerator is still not pressed). This sound is almost unnoticeable, and it does not happen if I release the brake and immediately press the accelerator, it only happens while creeping forward very slowly. I was able to make this sound/vibration last longer by "riding" the breaks and keeping the speed around 1-2 mph, it is very faint and I have really listen to it. To me I believe it is caused by some resonance/harmonics in MG2 turning at extremely low RPM, at least it "feels" somewhat "electric"...
I have a 2004 Mustang convertible V6 auto with 140K miles. The car has a rumble-strip like vibration that will come and go at any speed. But seems to be most noticeable at highway speeds when the car hits a ruff spot in the road. It will rumble for a short while the gradually go away. It can be more pronounced sometimes than other times.
The car did hit a curb with the right side front tire, enough so that the tire had to be replaced and did scuff up the wheel pretty good also. Had the one tire replaced, all tires balanced and rotated. Front-end alignment done.
Engine and transmission both seem to operate smoothly. New plugs, wires and throttle body cleaned. New brakes all four. I have noticed the ball joint on the front right does have a small amount of play?
I bought a 2005 wagon from a local dealer with 21K miles, the 1.8T, an automatic and 4mo. It was certified and still has 2 yrs and 24K miles on the warranty.
Anyway, I there is a rattle/rumble/vibration anytime the engine is at about 1200 RPM. I usually happens on small inclines, and doesn't matter if you are decelerating through 1200 or accelerating through it is makes the noise. I can get it to sustain itself if i keep it at 1200 on the gas or on the brake.
I am hoping it is just a heat shield that rattles at the certain frequency the engine makes at 1200, but I don't know. It is kind of right at that point where the transmission engages and disengages, torque converter?
I have 1997 Mazda 626 I4 5 speed manual transmission with 140k on it.
All of a sudden I am getting a horrible reoccurring vibration and noise that sounds like I'm driving on a rumble stripe at about 60MPH coming from the front end when accelerating.
It speeds up as I accelerate.If I push down my clutch or let off the gas it goes away immediately. While turning right it will go away immediately until I straiten it back out.It happens in any gear at any speed in any weather although it seems more likely to happen when everything is cold.It isn't always there and there seems to be no rhyme or reason as to when it happens or clears up.
My 2001 Outback has developed a problem in the last few days. When I move the car from a dead stop, I go through a brief period of heavy vibration coming from the back of the car, exactly as if I am running over a rumble strip. It occurs as I am accelerating away from the stop just after the clutch is totally let out. Once I get to a high-enough velocity, I no longer feel it. However, if I maintain a very low velocity I can feel some vibration but not quite as pronounced as it was coming from a dead stop.
I have been able to make this happen in 1st and 2nd gear, I have not tried in 3rd, 4th and 5th. It does not happen in reverse. I tested the clutch by putting the car up against the back wall of my garage, revving the engine and putting the car into 4th and 5th gear and the car stalled, as it should. The clutch did not slip. This clutch has about 60,000 miles on it. The previous clutch was replaced at about 85,000 miles. The problem has been getting worse steadily during a just completed a 700 mile holiday round trip. Could this be the clutch? Could it be something in the transmission?
Just had front Rotors and 4 brake pads replaced. Afterward, I noticed after the car has been in motion for a few minutes, a low rumble sound and vibration occurs randomly and usually at low RPM 1500-2500. Vehicle is a 2009 Highlander 4 cyl at 72000 miles.
Toyota service dealer ran diagnostic check and could not find anything.
Second opinion - mechanic swears it's coming from transmission drum and beginning of trans going.
Third opinion- shocks are starting to go and likely root cause on the sound/sensation.
Fourth opinion, wheel alignment or warped rotor likely the cause.
Performed wheel alignment, slight improvement but rumble is still evident. One replaced rotor has a pronounced groove on exterior. Serviceman suggested we won the lottery and the groove came from a rock from the street hitting the rotor.
Finally, it was determined we need to replace intermediate drive shaft due to knocking sound when turning the steering wheel. Not likely related to the low rumble.
I recently bought a 2004 Mustang convertible V6 auto with 180K miles to be my daughter's first car. The car has a driveability issue. It has a "rumble-strip" like vibration at speeds between 35-55 mph. This is when accelerating or decelerating. If I slip the car in neutral when driving the vibration is gone. Here is what I have done: new plugs, wires, coil. New u-joints. Front end needed a new tie rod end on right side, new transmission filter and fluid (only replacing lost pan fluid). Another thing wrong with the car (possibly related?) is that the ABS & traction control lights are stuck on indicating a system failure with the ABS.
Note that when replacing the ujoints I noted a couple of things:1- there is SOME amount of play at the transmission tailshaft bushing. It seemed excessive to me, but a local transmission shop told me that if it is not leaking fluid that it is not a problem. I did not gage the movement, but it was close to 1/16".2 - The other thing I noticed is that the universal joint for the rear yoke was a little bit stiff, meaning that it did not move as easily as I would have thought that it should. This was the case with both the old rear u-joint and the new, This indicates to me that the pinion trunnion ears are not perfectly aligned, but not sure what I should expect.
1992 Chevy Cavalier, about 120,000 miles. A few months ago my car has started to rumble and vibrate while idling in drive. It only occurs while I'm in drive and completely stopped. If I change to neutral or park, it immediately goes away. Also, if I'm in drive, keep my foot on the brake and give it a little gas, the vibration goes away. I've changed the spark plugs, had the throttle body cleaned (not very thoroughly) and my mechanic said my engine mounts look fine and to not worry too much about it. Is this a problem I can ignore as an inconvenience or should I put more effort into getting this fixed?
View 2 RepliesProblem: Vibration together with a noise that sounds abrasive and destructive. Mechanics have failed me.
It feels like driving over the intense short rumble strips that are meant to tell you when a wheel is outside the traffic lane. I feel and hear it in any gear, whether I am moving or not, but hardly at all in Park or Neutral, and hardly at all when cruising at high speeds. It is worst on the first drive of the day - much less on subsequent drives, even if the engine has been allowed to cool fully.
History: When this began, less than 600 miles ago, I had the transmission checked, where I had warranty coverage.
Found: No transmission trouble but a broken engine mount.
I had the engine mount replaced (and two gaskets replaced because they had started to leak), together with Virginia's mandated annual inspection - passed.
Vibration lessened but continued and started to worsen. Within 3 days the engine stalled in traffic and THE NEXT DAY the "check engine" light came on. I went back to the same place. The ignition coil and spark plugs were replaced. Power returned, and no stalling or warning light, but the vibration persisted.
One mechanic baffled: "What do you expect with 101K mileage and 16 valves?" - But this came up too fast to be ordinary wear and tear. What should I do?
2.0L Zetec E engine.
2002 Nissan Maxima with 125K miles. When going around a curve to the left there is a noticable rumble or vibration in the right front tire area. Going straight at high speeds is smooth and quiet. I checked the large neoprene boot and it does not appear to be cracked or anything but there is a joint(I believe it is either the ball joint or tie rod) that had a lot of grease around it, even away from where it connects. Could that be the problem? I could not get under car to see exactly where grease was coming from. Just a quick check by sticking my hand up there and feeling around.
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