Camry :: Valve Rattle On Cold Start
Jan 5, 2012
I left my car over night so that the dealer could hear my valve rattle when it was cold. Typically it rattles for about 4 miles and then never again until the next cold start. He called me today and said that he heard exactly what I reported and it was not normal. Then the diagnosis .... BAD ALTERNATOR!
I'm 52 years old, I have built cars from the frame up, I have changed and rebuilt many an alternator over the years, I have never heard one do this! If this is correct, and I must say that he has never done me wrong, I was real close to being stranded along the road!
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Just bought a used 04 XLE Camry for daughter--60K miles. 4 cylinder engine. Engine sounded great when test drove. She has had it for 2 weeks, the engine now rattles badly upon first cold start of the day. Clears up almost immediately (maybe 3-4 seconds). Shut down and restart-no problem--only when cold (or has been sitting for more than a couple of hrs.) I'm thinking it is the valve lifters out of oil, but don't know. And what was the repair?(engine oil was just changed(Synth blend--5W-30Wt.))
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I bought a 2005 Camry about 3 months ago. It has the 2.4l 4 cyl with about 139k miles. The car seems to run perfect, but it has a rattle noise right at start up on cold mornings. It only lasts for the initial 1/2 second start up, then it's gone. I'm thinking it's probably just a heat shield rattle or something, I just did a full synthetic high mileage oil change on it and that didn't work, so that just makes me lean more towards heat shield.
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This has to do with a rattle on cold startup from a gear connected with the VVT system. I have a 2010 camry that may be affected by this. It just past 60K miles so they probably will not cover it under warranty. Does the rattle get worse over time, or will it have an engine failure if it does not get fixed?
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Recently bought 2002 Camry 2.4 .... Engine has a cold start rattle in the top passenger side. The noise stops after the engine heats up in about 10 minutes. I've changed the intake manifold.... Did not work. Looking for the OCV VALVE FILTER but cannot find it ....
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I just bought 2011 Camry 2.5 6auto with 57k miles on it. The car make a rattle noise for a second or so on a cold start when sets overnight. I took it to the dealer yesterday and they replaced the timing gear assembly under warranty. This morning when I started the car in the morning it made the same rattle noise. I am going to take it back to the dealer next week.
My question is has any one had this rattle noise? if so, did the noise go away after the dealer replaced the cam gear? Also, Do you think this rattle will affect the engine in the long term?
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Every time I start my 2013 Azera there is a rattling of the valves like there is no oil in the top end. I have heard other owners complaining about this so I asked my dealer when I went in for an oil change. The last three changes I have asked and he told me the same thing, there is nothing being reported. So I got my oil changed and went home. Parked the car for 6.5 ~ 7 hours and when I started it up the sound was louder than ever. I called the dealer back and told them. They asked me to leave it overnight so they could hear the noise for them selves. I dropped the car off that evening.
I got a call the first thing in the morning and they said that their tech did hear something and they were going to test it again in two hours and call me back. They called back and said they believed it was the CAM phasers. They gave me the car back while they ordered parts and rounded up a loaner. I dropped it off on Thursday.
Two weeks later (today) I picked the car up. Here is what they did. It turned out to be the CAM Phasers so when they got in there they also had to replace the CAM shafts (All 4) as well. I am sure there was more going on than what they told me, after all they had the car for two full weeks!
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The rattle only lasts for a second or two. Only warning light recently was airbag control module, addressed by Dealer. Also noticed recently, while doing some "spirited" driving, there was a deep-bass thump sound at the end of each gear change.
I've done forum searches for start-up rattle and found issues with timing chain/belt, in relation to the tensioner bolt, mentioned in reference to an earlier design(?). I was unable to find anything related to the B7/NMS.
No idea if it's a V6 issue, DSG issue or general VW issue. NMS V6? NMS DSG?
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There was a TSB for 2AR engine, Engine Knock/Rattle Noise at Cold Startup. My question is for those I4 camry owner, do you have these rattle sound when you start your vehicle at cold? I am not sure if mines have the same issue, but pretty sure is I can't find any differences between mine and this clip:
You Tube
So should I take it to the dealer? Or it's normal?
[URL] .....
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I have had a rattle that lasts 2 seconds on my 2012 Elantra for the since about 2 oil changes ago. The car has 152,000 miles on it and I've changed the oil regularly per the maintenance schedule, although not always with a Hyundai filter.
I'm strongly suspecting that this is the timing chain tensioner, but I could be wrong. Other than this, the car runs fine. I tried having the oil changed by the Hyundai dealer with the OEM oil filter and the problem appears to be a little worse. It first started to appear on cold start up after the car sat for >8 hrs or so. Now, it appears on cold start up >2 hrs. I noticed that the dealer put 5W20 in it.
I'm wondering if lower viscosity oil makes the problem worse during hot weather. It seems when the weather is colder it takes longer for it to appear. I'm wondering what my options are here. I really don't know how much $$ it is to go after the tensioner and how critical it is - the dealer said they do replace them and that doesn't always fix the problem though I'm not sure what he meant. I have read a few other posts about tensioners here, but I'm also wondering if this is an issue with the new engine.
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So I am hearing a weird noise when I start up my Tig after it's been sitting at least overnight. I'm not sure when it started because if the windows are up when I start I can't hear it inside, so for all I know it's been happening since before the warm weather arrived. But anyway... It's a brief rattle, kind of high and plastic-y, like maybe a half-second long or less, when I first start up. If I turn it off and then start it again, no rattle. Don't hear it again until the Tig has sat for a while.
No CELs or anything or other signs of trouble. It's a 2014 with 24k miles, bought CPO at 19k.
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I have a 2013 Azera w/technology package, it has 20,500 miles. I absolutely love the car, have had no issues with it. However, every time the car is started with a cold engine, either from sitting overnight, or sitting an hour when it's very cold outside (20's or 30'sF), there is a loud rattle like something is very loose or I've described it like it sounds like someone threw a bag of bolts in the engine for about 3-4 seconds. Then it runs like a normal engine. I've had it in the shop twice, the 2nd time they replaced the fuel rail injector assembly and all the injectors due to such a heavy carbon buildup in the cylinders. It still rattles horribly. It's an embarrassment to start, it sounds horrible and doesn't sound like the normal startup noise. This concerns me of the longevity of the engine. I have video of the start up noise even.
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Two months ago I bought a used 2006 Sonata v6 with 54,000 miles. After a few hundred miles I began to hear a rattle on cold start that lasts approx 5 secs. I did my research and saw the TSB concerning the timing chain tensioners. The TSB instructs the dealer to turn the engine off after reaching operating temp then restart after 10 minutes. If there was no noise after the ten minute start then the car is operating normally. My car does not rattle after the 10 minute start up. I just can't see this as a normal characteristic. What could be causing this noise?
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I have a Hyundai Elantra Limited 2012. A few months ago the Short Block was replaced because the engine was noisy. Now it started to do that noise, if I remember it's a little bit similar : Youtube video: [URL] .... Or search youtube for: Hyundai elantra 2012 engine rattle noise
It rattled very loud for 1 or 2 seconds on a cold start the other day too. Noise appears to be coming from the engine. It does it pretty much all the time, at idling, when I accelerate it accelerates too and when I slow down it kinds of do too slowly. Need another new short block or is it something else like the timing chain or a bearing?
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I have a 1997 explorer sport 4x4 4.0 sohc It has a real tuff time with cold starts sputters won't hold and idle sits at about 500 rpm once its warm its not as bad still has a low idle.
Also i have a constant engine rattle thinking left front cam tension-er
Also throwing and check engine light odb scan tool shows o2 sensor position two is bad
I was thinking intake gaskets and new tension-er is a good place to start.
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I have a 2012 Camry SE with about 30k on it. I've always been a huge Toyota fan but I've had some interesting things happen with my first new car that has me questioning quality. I've had a mouse nest in the cabin air filter with the dead mouse laying in the engine bay (not a toyota issue), a loud rattling exhaust/engine rattle when I start the car, and the common interior creaks that I've been reading about.
However I've noticed a noise coming from somewhere behind the dash, maybe the instrument panel area that has been very annoying. It occurs at highway speeds usually above 65mph and it's kind of like a quick tapping. Very faint but definitely noticeable.
Its not the sunroof because, unfortunately I have that issue also lol. It took me a while to narrow it down to behind the dash but that's as far as I can get because I can't search for it while I'm driving. I'm not very picky but I do like to drive in silence sometimes and listen to the sounds of the engine/tranny shifting (weird I know) but that dashboard noise has been ruining it.
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I just purchased my 2012 Sonata GLS about 2 weeks ago and had 64,000 miles on it. Put a few hundred miles on it around town without issue and then head out on a road trip and put about 750 miles on it when I had the issue. I was going about 60 mph and went to pass a semi and when I stepped on it the car started lurching, crazy valve rattle, and seemed to lose a lot of power. Got back behind the semi and babied it until I found a place to pull over and check it out. It was 2 quarts low on oil so I topped it off and it sounded fine, running smooth and no ticking or anything. Drove it around a bit and everything seemed fine and eventually got back on the highway and running fine. Pulled over after 100 miles and another 1/2 quart low, topped off.
Another 100 miles and another 1/2 quart, but running great with no issues. 150 miles from home and it happens again when I try to pass with the rattling valves and loss of power and I have to limp it to a gas station and now hearing the valve rattle and chugging on just a slight incline and going 20 mph. Get it towed 150 miles back to the Honda dealer where i purchased it from (long story) and their tech drove it and said he thought it needed a new motor since he barely made it back to the shop. They send it over to my local Hyundai dealer, and all of the sudden it is running great again! I go and drive with the tech and hammering on the throttle and it's running like a champ. I left it for him to drive home and they put 98 miles on it without issue. I picked it up yesterday and they said to bring it back if it happens again, but totally stumped as what it could be. They did start the oil consumption test so I will update when that is done.
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I Have a 2000 Passat 30 valve v6. I got a low oil pressure message figured I could make it to the store for some oil. Well I turn a corner and heard a valve rattle and the car started to idle rough. I was two quarts low but the noise and the rough idle still exist. In neutral the noise is not noticeable. Driving the noise is only noticeable at high RPM. The car doesn't smoke and otherwise runs fine.
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I have a 2014 Sonata with 22k miles. I love this car but lately I've noticed valve rattle under acceleration. Brought this up with service tech and he said I'm not driving the car on long enough trips to keep it cleaned off. When I researched the GDI very little info comes up for Hyundai mainly vw and BMW. I guess what I'm asking is is the only fix for the carbon build up removing the intake and cleaning the valves manually or is there another way.
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My 2.4l camry 2002 dies right after start. This usually happens with cold starts. I checked multiple threads with similar problems and I have narrowed down the possible culprits. My working theory now is that the TPS or throttle body may be bad.
1. Is the throttle body fully closed at rest? Mine opens a bit.
2. With ignition at ON (engine not started) my TPS reads 17.6 on my Actron scanner. Is this figure OK?
OTHER THEORIES : The only code I ever got is p1656: OCV circuit malfunction. A technician checked and said it was caused by a poor grounding. That code has not returned since then (a few days back).
However, I'd still place OCV on the list:
1. Bad OCV/circuit/ECM (shudder!)
2. Leak in air throttle after MAF (VSV for EVAP stuck open?)
3. Bad A/F sensor
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Just bought a 1994 Camry Station Wagon, 84,000 km (53,000 miles) in very good condition. The two pre-owners used to keep car in garage inside the house, I keep the Camry out on the street.
Currently, I am experiencing the following problem: When it is cold outside (this is 20 to 25 degrees F), the car would not start the other morning. Everything inside the car is working (i.e. lights, radio, fan, sunroof etc.), a sign that battery is in good shape. Before buying the car, the owner replaced all the expendable parts you can imagine. Once it is getting warmer, the car would start perfectly well.
In the Consumer Guide I read the following about starting problems in the trouble spots section (referring to the 1992-1996 Camry series): "Hard starting: Hard starting after cold soak is due to ignition-coil voltage leaking to an inappropriate ground." All models, not a specific year.
On this thread I just found a comment posted on Jan. 31, 2004 by "yotatechie04", saying that - obviously - a similar problem occured to him on a 1999 model, and he found it had to do with "oil density".
Question: Is hard starting - for example after a cold night - a well known problem to 1994 model? What about the hint regarding "ignition-coil voltage leaking" and "oil density". What can be done?
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