Camry :: Transmission Was Shifting Oddly After Battery Replacement
Jul 28, 2014
My son has an '02 Camry. It was running fine, except the starter was getting flaky. We replaced it yesterday, which of course meant taking out the battery. When we started it up, it was idling rough and slow, but that cleared itself up before long. However, the transmission was shifting oddly, and after not a whole of of miles, it's not improving. I'm guessing he's only put 30 miles on it since yesterday. Anyway, he's telling me when he goes down the road the rpms/MPH go higher and higher, but the car won't shift into the next gear. He has to take his foot off the gas, and after a moment or two it will shift. Does this sound like something the computer has still left to re-learn? Or is it more likely we knocked a vacuum line or something loose? I checked and doubled checked yesterday when we put it together for something knocked loose, but saw nothing. But, I'm sure we all know how that goes.
BTW, we loosened up the air scoop to get some more wiggle room. We accidently popped it out from the bottom of the air cleaner housing. Nothing broke, and it slipped back in fine later. I'm doubting a leak there would matter, but just throwing that out in case I'm wrong about that.
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I've got a strange problem with the keyfobs on my 2006 Camry. I tried replacing the batteries in both keyfobs and reprogramming them, but they still will not unlock the door. I suspect there is an issue with some computer part in the car that is preventing it from working. This was my sequence of events:
1. The key fob stopped working, so I replaced the battery. No luck.
2. Found the spare fob, didn't work either so I replaced that battery too. Still didn't work.
3. Reprogrammed both remotes using the steps (pasted below for readability). The programming was successful because the door locks cycled after adding each remote to the ecu on step 13.
However, after exiting the vehicle the locks still weren't working.
The steps I followed to reprogram the key fob:
1. Begin with the key out of the ignition.
2. OPEN and UNLOCK the DRIVER'S side door. CLOSE all other doors including the trunk.
3. Within 5 seconds INSERT the key into the ignition and PULL it out TWICE.
4. CLOSE then OPEN the DRIVER's side door TWICE.
5. Insert key INTO the ignition then REMOVE it.
6. CLOSE then OPEN the DRIVER's side door TWICE.
7. Insert the key INTO the ignition and LEAVE it in ignition.
8. CLOSE the DRIVER's side door.
9. Switch the ignition to ON then OFF.
10. REMOVE the key from ignition.
11. The door locks will now cycle to confirm the vehicle has successfully entered programming mode.
12. PUSH and HOLD the LOCK and UNLOCK button for 1.5 seconds on the first remote being programmed. As soon as you let go PUSH the LOCK button and HOLD it for 2 seconds.
13. The door locks will cycle to confirm successful programming of the remote. If you have any additional remotes to program repeat step 12 if you have no additional remotes proceed to step 14.
14. OPEN the DRIVER'S side door. Programming is now complete. [URL].................
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I've noticed my Camry hesitating shifting lately. My initial thought was perhaps my transmission fluid was low. But after further review of some articles I don't believe that's it. I saw one mention of the computer and maybe having the transmission fluid levels adjusted?
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My 2007 V6 failed me several times on very cold mornings. I start the car, wait about 1 minute and then drove it to a stop sign or red light (still cold). When the light turned green, I tried to proceed, but it was as if the car was in neutral. The car would not move. It was only after about 2-3 minutes, when the car started to warm up that I was able to get a gear. After 5-7 minutes, it was as if nothing happened. I have 97K on the car.
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I have a 2007 Camry V6 XLE with a rebuilt transmission. Since the rebuild I have had an intermittent problem with the transmission not shifting into gear properly from park. When shifting from park into drive, sometimes the transmission will pause, leaving the vehicle in neutral, then slamming into drive.
The transmission was replaced in April of 09 with a leaking transmission seal. Since this time I have has this problem but have not been able to get it to be reproduced for Toyota to observe.
Purchased: February '08 (ish)- New
First Transmission Replacement- April '09- 35980 Miles
Transmission Repair- Internal Temp Sensor/leaking o-ring/Transmission Flush- 9/13/11- 101k miles
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Just got the battery replaced on my v6 Camry, had no problems before it. After replacing the battery, I drove about a mile to another stop and parked the car. Noticed it vibrating and the idles very low. I restarted the car and it wouldn't stay on. Car will turn on fine, RPMs will go a bit above 1k and drop down and turn off in about 5 seconds.
Today morning I started it and it seemed fine (cold start). Idles were about 1K on a cold start. Drove around about a mile and came home and the car stalled. Same as above, it'll start up and stall within 5 seconds.
I took it for a drive (about 25 miles) so the car can re-learn everything and took a stop at Autozone. Same thing there. Didn't stall on the way because I didn't have to stop, I was on the highway. One of the sales guys looked at the car and told me to try out a new MAF Sensor. Installed a new sensor and the car died off again within 5 seconds. Checked the readings of the MAF sensor (old and new) and they both read fine.
Brought the car back home (about 35 miles total driving after battery replacement) and it'll still stall as soon as you stop. To keep it going, you have to hold the brake and hit the accelerator very lightly to keep the idle in the middle of 0 and 1 or shift into Neutral and do the same.
No CELs on the car, car drove perfectly fine before the new battery. New battery tests good, even went to the extent of putting my old battery back in (Drove about 35 miles on new battery, replaced and drove 35ish miles). Car has just short of 100k miles. Regular services are done at Toyota at about 5-6k.
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just bought a 2003 camry 4 cylinder with 126xxx miles automatic, everything seem fine when i was test driving and all. I bought the car and finally drove the car for around town running errands and all of a sudden i started to noticed a stutter in between shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear.
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Just curious if there are any other 2010 owners with any difficulty shifting gears in their manual transmission camrys? I noticed during my test drive that I grinded my way into 2nd once... I thought it might have just been my nervousness with a new clutch at the time. However, I've since put 300 miles on the car and I still have trouble putting it into second gear on a daily basis. Sometimes it grinds a bit, and sometimes it catches or a half second before it pops in. All the gears OTHER than 2nd gear go in like butter as you would expect with a new transmission. I'm not new to a clutch... this is at least my 4th car with a stick, so I don't think I'm doing anything out of the ordinary when shifting.
It reminds me of some older (100,000+ mile Nissan) cars I've had in the past... the syncromesh was wearing out and it would grind going into second or third, so I put in some RedLine MTL and got a little more life out of the transmission... but there shouldn't be a need for that kind of thing on a car with less than 1000 miles on it?!
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I have a 94 Camry 2.2. When I am driving 45 MPH the transmissions acts like it is shifting into N or OD and then the RPMS fluctuate between idle and 1500 or so. Then when I it will shift hard because the car has decelerated. If I stay in the throttle during this it just jerks or lunges.
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When my 2012 Camry's automatic transmission shifts gears in the 20-30 mph range, there is a hesitation during the shifting. I had an independent automatic transmission technician test drive my Camry, and he said my transmission had "light throttle 2-3 slide." He also noted a high frequency clicking sound in the vicinity of the transmission while the engine was running, which he said may be a malfunctioning solenoid.
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When we got our 2006 Camry, shifting the transmission to park (P) would automatically unlock the doors, and shifting it to drive (D) would automatically lock the doors.
Up until about a year ago, shifting to park stopped unlocking the doors. Drive still locks the doors.
I always thought it was a problem with the electronics, but I recently heard from a friend that he heard it's actually something you can set with your keyless entry remote (?!).
How I can set it back so that park unlocks the doors again? I couldn't find anything in the user's manual.
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I just picked up my 2016 4 cylinder Camry 2 weeks ago and have 1000 miles on it. I noticed that sometimes when it shifts it shifts a little bit rough, not sure if I would call it a jerk or shudder but its more pronounced to the point I can feel the shifts. Is this normal for this transmission or is this something I should have checked out?
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I'm trying to find information about replacing solenoid in my transmission. I have pdf of repair manual, and it doesn't have much information regarding transmission.
I have a p0766 code, and I think I need to replace Shift Solenoid. Does Technical Information Service Cover this with subscription.
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96 Ranger x cab 4.0 ltr automatic... Starts fine, runs fine until I stop.
When I stop, the engine idles oddly - it slows and speeds back up, tachometer and the battery gauges both lower just a bit and immediately return to normal. When the headlights are on, they dim in rhythm when the gauges dip. It does not do this in park or neutral.
Sometimes it does it right away. Sometimes it doesn't do this at all. Of course it did not do this when I took it to the shop. The battery is nearly new. Cables are fine. Alternator checked out ok.
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I have a 2000 F150 5.4L with 157k miles on it. I think it has the 4r70w trans. The transmission has started holding 2nd gear too long before shifting into third. Throttle position doesn't matter, it does it even under light throttle. I do not have a check engine light. I have owned the truck since new and the trans fluid has been changed 3 or 4 times. The fluid looks pretty good now, not burnt or anything. The truck has been sitting in the garage a lot over the past 2 years, I drive it at least once a month and have put maybe 2000 miles on it this year. It shifts fine through the other gears, just 2-3 has an issue. Truck has the towing package.
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Well recently i bought a 79 f150 4x4 with a C6. I have been going over the regular stuff like vacuum lines, fuel lines, etc. I replaced all vacuum lines because most were cracked or stiff or just falling apart. The problem I am having is that the tranny doesn't want to shift to 3rd. I replaced the vacuum modulator hoping it would work, but no go.
The old modulator had the adjustment screw pretty much turned all the way out, so I am guessing that was done to cover up another issue. The truck shifts smooth as butta from 1-2, but over revs and never shifts when going to 3rd. This happens manually and when it is in D. Could it be an intermediate band? I am new to the auto tranny world so I am trying to soak up as much info as i can.
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Came out one morning went to start car, daily driver, 180k, completely dead. Figured since battery was never replaced went to Toyota and got a new battery. Left on vacation came back 3 weeks later, installed battery, went to start car and still completely dead. No dome light, no brake lights, no head lights, no anything.
Checked battery, full charge under load. Tried to jump start (correct polarity) using my 4x4 Dodge Ram 2500
Never had a single issue, warning light etc. I am going to get my multimeter out on Monday and check the visible fuses.
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I just got a 2004, it did have a bad 12V battery which I did replace, still not charging.But First it is making a loud noise under the hood sounds like towards the right side.when I accelerate starts at 18 to 20 miles per hour. Tried sitting still with car in gear and pushing accelerator can not get it to make the noise that way, without the wheels rotating.
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I'd like to know how to replace the battery in the key fob for my 2002 Passat Wagon. I looked in the manual but I could not find it and it says that the dealer should do it. I am aware that sometimes the fob may need to be re-programmed but my wife's key works perfectly so I will assume that the battery has gone out. The key works just fine when used manually.Also, what kind of battery does it take??
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I've spent 1 hour and can't find a video. Every video is the wrong key style. It's a 2013 GTI
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My transmission is not shifting into 3rd gear this is a 350 turbo hydramatic.
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