Camry :: Transmission / Sensor - Shift Hesitating After A Stop Or On A Turn
Sep 18, 2014
My 02 Camry(auto tranny) just started shift hesitating after a stop or on a turn. Engine revs and then slowly grabs. After that, does everything fine as far as normal shifting is concerned(up and down through the other gears). Fluid level is full after a change out last month.
I bought this car used this year and the tranny fluid was dark brown. Didn't smell burnt, but compared to other fluid I've seen looked roasted or old. Like it had never been changed. This Camry has 150K.
So, do i have a transmission issue or has a sensor gone bad?
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I've had this problem with my 08 v6 camry se recently: when i first start my car and stop at a stop light my transmission will seem to disengage or not switch gears properly resulting in me redlining and not being able to accelerate properly. shortly after everything returns back to normal and the problem goes away on its own never to return until i begin the process all over again.
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I have a 2004 Camry 4 cylinder. Will not shift into overdrive. Diagnostics indicates knock sensor. I ordered one. Where is it located and what do I need to do to replace it?
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I'm having with my 2008 Elantra. In short, the car stalls when I'm at a stop, and then for a period of time, I cannot get the car in park or turn it off. When I am eventually able to get it to do so, I turn it back on, and it restarts like nothing ever happened. The full details are below. The dealership is clueless, and I am so upset/frustrated.
Three weeks ago, I was slowed down at a yield sign, and when I tried to inch forward, my car stalled. The radio, AC, etc. were all still on, but I could not move forward. I noticed the EPS light on on my dash. I also could not turn the wheel or shift the car into park (could only get it into neutral), and therefore, could not turn off the car/get the key out.
After cops pushed me into a parking lot, the car sat for a bit (still technically "on"). Eventually, a friend got in and forced the wheel to move a bit in each direction, and was able to put the car in park and turn it off. When we turned it back on, the engine started and everything appeared fine. I canceled the tow and drove it home.
I took the car to where I bought it and was told there was a technical service bulletin related to the powertrain control module, and they recommended I take it to the dealership to be fixed. The first Hyundai dealership I took it to said they addressed the TSB, and also recommended I clean out the fuel line as that may have been affecting it ($150). Because it had been awhile since I'd done anything like that and the work was relatively in expensive, I said sure, got my car back and went back to my life...
Fast forward to this week. I'm driving in rush hour traffic, and the SAME THING happens again. I immediately tried to move the wheel around to get the car in park and restart, to no avail. I called a tow. After some time passed, the same thing happened again -- we were able to get the car in park, turned it off, turned it back on and it seemed normal again.
I had the car towed to another Hyundai dealership, explained the situation and they tested and drove it around a bit over two days, but because they are unable to recreate the issue and no codes appear, they can't do anything for me.
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On a manual car, I know it's not the best thing to go from neutral, completely bypass 1st gear, and shift to 2nd gear. As well as 3rd to 5th bypassing 4th. However, is it the same for downshifting into neutral or another gear? Will it hurt the transmission to go from 3rd to neutral (bypassing 1st and 2nd) when coming to a stop? I do know that shifting from 4th to 2nd gear and bypassing 3rd will harm your tranny. I just want to double check if I'm right...
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I have a 2000 Buick Century that only has 70000 miles on it. I have an issue that when I drive the car for a while, the transmission will shift hard after stopping at a light or stop sign. It only does it through the first three gears. If I shut the car off and let it sit for a few minutes and start it back up, it shifts fine through all of the gears. I have not had the change to change the fluid and filter yet. The fluid looks clean and is always full. I have read that there has been a common problem with a pressure control solenoid in the transmission needing replaced to correct the hard shifting. I am not getting any kind of error codes from the PCM, so I am not sure.
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I have a 2000 ford f350 7.3l with a auto transmission(4r100) and I have had problems with it . It started a while back when the transmission is cold like in the morning when I put it in drive it acts like when you don't push the cluch in on a standard when coming to a stop kind like it's bucking and this only happens when it's cold when it's nice and warmed it's fine so I changed the whole transmission and put a billet torque converter and I'm still having the same problem can it be a sensor or something electrical ?
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My car is hesitating when I shift and accelerate, and revving up the tach after I shift into 5th but the speed doesn't match.Also, in order to start the car I have to press the clutch practically all the way to the floor.
It has 53,000 miles on it. I took it to the dealer, and they said I need the clutch and possibly flywheel replaced.
This seems low mileage to me. I have driven a stick for over 31 years. My previous car was a Honda CRXsi and it was over 110,000 miles before I needed a new clutch.
Is a clutch replacement this early normal for this car? Or is it me? I don't think I ride the clutch.
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Where the transmission temperature sensor is on a 2014 Camry 4 cylinder. I am contemplating unplugging it to improve shift points. I know it may affect gas mileage but the current shift points suck.
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My 2008 Honda Fit has been developing a problem for the last 6 months or so and each time I've taken it to the dealership they say there's nothing wrong. It started with the car hesitating when accelerating from a stop. This only happened if the car had been sitting for a while and it only really happened if you hit a full stop before the car had a chance to warm up, even then, it probably only happened maybe 1 out of every 10 stops.
Recently, the car has started struggling when coming to a full stop (again usually the first stop after the car has been sitting) and the car will stall out unless you give it some gas. This seems to be worse if it is cold outside (which it is now permanently cold outside) and when the car is on an incline (front higher than the back).
I took it to the dealership (because it is still under warranty) and they said the engine isn't showing any codes and the fuel pressure is fine (of course that didn't stop them from trying to sell me a new battery). However, I am concerned that this is only going to get worse and its not really acceptable for it to be stalling out regardless.
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My 2002 Camry has an automatic transmission that works fine except when it is about 20 degrees or colder. The problem is that the transmission does not want to shift from first to second gear. After about ten minutes things shift normally. Other than that I have had no issues with the transmission.
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I have a 2005 Passat GLS TDI. Recently it has started jerking when shifting and hesitating when taking off from a stop. I guess it's not quite a hesitation but I press the gas and it takes a few seconds to kick in and go. The check engine light came on and I read the codes with a code reader.
The codes I got were P0674-Glow plug/heater cylinder 4 and P0741 Torque converter CKT performance or stuck off. Now The car started hard in the winter when it was really cold so I am assuming the one code means we have a bad glow plug.
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I have a 2005 Passat GLS TDI. Recently it has started jerking when shifting and hesitating when taking off from a stop. I guess it's not quite a hesitation but I press the gas and it takes a few seconds to kick in and go. The check engine light came on and I read the codes with a code reader. The codes I got were P0674-Glow plug/heater cylinder 4 and P0741 Torque converter CKT performance or stuck off. Now The car started hard in the winter when it was really cold so I am assuming the one code means we have a bad glow plug. Any tips where to start, what this could be, and how much each thing could cost me to fix?
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what I have is for the 10-20k miles I've own this car (now at 130k), the first mile or 2 of driving the transmission goes to a higher rpm than normal before shifting to the next gear. Is this indicative of pending failure? It has always done it. Also, I try to do the transmission drain fill every other oil change or so.
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I just bought a used 2010 Camry le with 39k on it. My concern is my car transmission working properly? Because it has some strange downshifting patterns. Whenever I take my foot off gas pedal I feel pull back just feels like car is braking by it self and plus transmission shift erratically overall its a great car. This is my first car driving with new 6 speed transmission. I used to drive 2001 Toyota Camry 4 speed auto it had smooth gear shifting. But is this is normal for 2010 Camry or should I take it to Toyota dealership.
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Need solving a P0172 code I had. I just pulled out the MAF sensor and cleaned it with a MAF Sensor Cleaner (at most auto parts stores). Worked like a charm and the code went away and the gas smell is gone too.
Now I have a new code - P0712. I have been extensively searching the web and cannot find any good information on how to resolve this issue - "P0712 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input" ...
I checked the fluid level and it is fine.
I have a 2005 Camry, 2.2 liter, 4 cylinders...
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I bought 2004 Toyota Camry LE 2.4 couple of months ago, Been running good with no issues , no check engine light . Today I had it detailed from the inside and got it clean at a shop , then took it and changed the transmission Oil at Jiffylube . after leaving the shop the engine light came on . I then took it to a local Auto car parts and had used a car diagnostics scanner to see what was the problem and this showed up P0705 Transmission Range Sensor . I deleted it , then while driving around town , it came back on . I live in Minnesota and it is very cold here, not sure if the cold weather have to do anything with it, but i doubt it. The car looks and seems to be running ok .
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I have a problem in the form of a 2000 Buick LeSabre Custom with the GM 3800 series II engine. After 245k miles, it has begun to show it's age in some very unaffectionate ways. It has been stalling, sputtering, hesitating, and unwilling to start at seemingly random intervals. And, such is my luck, there has been no 'check engine' light on at any point during this saga. Here's the chronology of events spanning 6 months:
The first symptom I experienced was occasional sputtering, mainly while going uphill. This began to occur shortly after the spark plugs were replaced during regular maintenance. So I replaced the spark plugs again, and also the wires, fuel filter, and fuel pressure regulator. Plus I gave the MAF a good cleaning.
But the problem persisted, and grew to include intermittent stalling when I would come to a stop. Undaunted, I replaced the ignition coils, and swapped in a used ICM.
The car, obviously displeased with my choice words toward it, began to not start every now and then. It would just crank to no avail. So I would try again after an hour or two and it would immediately start as if nothing was wrong. Fearing that I or my wife could be left stranded I replaced the fuel pump. It continues to stall every once in a while and it still sometimes sputters at low rpms. A lot of times it just wont idle at a constant speed.
So then I replaced the crank sensor and I cleaned the camshaft sensor too. Guess what? It's still intermittently sputtering/hesitating when I accelerate from a stop. And I have noticed that it will also sputter while idling in park as well. It's like it's misfiring, but with no engine codes. I'm not happy.
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We just got a 2008 4Cyl with the 5spd auto. Only had it two weeks. When driving 35-45mph, the tranny will shift up into 5th gear and then basically STAY there. As we approach a slight upward grade, the tachometer is stuck at 1200 RPM and the whole car shudders and vibrates as the engine "lugs" down. We find ourselves constantly playing with the gas pedal in order to FORCE the tranny to downshift.
Took it to dealer. They experienced same thing. They said it was "Normal for this model - at this time". They quietly told me they are getting other complaints and look forward to Toyota releasing new programming for the ECU. Three different drivers and rear passengers have quickly remarked about this "sensation" when going up any grade.
We experience this constantly driving here in Maine. Interstate and inner city driving is fine. If we move the gated shifter to "4" - it resolves this problem. Dealer said this is normal. So I actually purchased a "manual" automatic transmission?? Do we just stop whining and retrain ourselves or do you folks think we can look forward to a solution?Our 2004 Camry, 2002 Tundra and our 1999 Solara had wonderful transmissions.
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I notice on cold days my transmission hesitates to shift and holds 2nd - 3rd for a long time before finally shifting. Once the car warms , all is fine. Will and what could the dealer do for this? I would like it looked after before my warranty runs out.
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I have a 2004 Toyota Camry, automatic trans, 172k miles, still in great shape and has been well cared for with standard preventative maintenance. When it's cold (<30F), the transmission will not shift out of 2nd or 3rd gear, can't tell which. It reaches about 40mph before the RPMs approach 3000, and I dare not push it harder. Let the car warm up or drive it for 5 minutes and everything is fine. This has happened the last two winters. The car runs great other than this, which means there is no apparent problem 8 months of the year. I had the transmission fluid flushed and filter changed last year thinking it may improve, but there was no change. What could be the culprit?
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