My toyota camry 2003 shakes,vibrating while driving in the front, right side especially, It shakes most at a certain low speeds. The cars is always shaking when it reaches 60mile range upward. what could be the problem??
View 7 RepliesI have a question regarding my shaking car (Toyota Avensis Diesel 2.0 1999) while accelerating.
The shaking occurs when I accelerate, especially within the range of 45-75 miles per hour (70-120km/h). It's at it's worst around 60 mph. Whenever I release the gas pedal it stops. It also stops whenever I go faster than 75 mph. When I drive at a constant speed between 45-75 mph, the car stills shakes, but a bit less than when I accelerate. It doesn't seem like there is any specific location from where the shaking originates. It's all over, but there's no shaking of the steering wheel itself. The tyres are ok. After some suggestions I recently put some injection cleaner into a full tank, but with no results.
Obviously I'll have the oil changed, but Toyota recommends all this other stuff at 30k and my local dealer wants about 250$ for it. It looks like the same stuff they do with my regular oil changes but now want 250$ to do it. Seems like somewhat of a rip off.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2012 Toyota Camry and I noticed that when I am on a slight upward hill, my Camry will slowly roll back if I don't have my brake pedal applied. Does this happen to you and is it normal? This is my first new car and my old car which was a 94 lincoln never did this even on very steep hills.
View 14 RepliesI had a problem with my steering wheel shaking at various speeds. Eventually I found a bad inner tie rod and replaced it. The shaking is gone, but whenever I get over 70 mph there is still a very small vibration. I had all 4 wheels aligned after changing the tie rod. Tires are brand new, less than a week old. The mechanic checked my ball joints while doing the alignment and said they were good. Could my struts be causing the vibration? They need replaced, not sure if the previous owner ever replaced them and the car has 225,000 miles.
View 3 RepliesI've been having frequent problems with my car.
Here's the information about it:
200,000 miliage
engine light is on when key is in ignition, but goes off when car starts up
Four cylinder engine
Here's the problem:
Car stalls intermittently
when it is about to stall, when i slow down, car putters a bit, and RPM gauge shakes wildly
when coming to a complete stop, car shuts off completely, and when trying to start back up, engine chokes.
Temporary solution:
I put the car in neutral and floor the gas pedal, then the car works again.
Two cars, a Toyota Camry and a Corolla, are shaking when driving them, esp. around 35-45 mph when accelerating. This started right after a historic snow storm in Virginia that brought 24" of snow and temperatures in the teens and a bit lower. Nothing appears to be wrong with any of the tires. The shaking feels like the car as a whole; it does not really come through the steering wheel. We`ve only driven each car once since the storm.
I`m thinking this may be from all the moisture and cold. Does this sound reasonable? Do you think it might work its way out, or do we have serious problems with two different cars on our hands?
1989 Camry, 2.0L A/T- 97K mi.- This car has developed a violent shaking condition when traveling at highway speed. It only occurs after the car has been driven for at least 1/2 hour. It does not appear to be related to an individual wheel or axle, and happens only when the accelerator pedal is depressed and the car is in gear and moving at 50+ MPH. Steering is not affected, nor does turning the steering wheel increase or decrease the shaking. The shaking stops when the accelerator is released. The engine runs smoothly, with no misfire or vibration.
View 3 RepliesTook this car for scheduled maintenance, tuneup on 12/19. AFTER the tuneup, it started shaking when in idle or going slowly. Took it back 1/5, they confirmed it was misfiring, checked a computer code, replaced one of the coils. The misfiring went away but returned, worse than ever, last week (early Feb).
I read somewhere that replacing coils for misfiring can be just treating the symptom, not the cause. What should I do now?
I drive a mile to and from work. Just as I pull in to park the engine dies. It will crank but won't catch. I let sit overnight and the next day it starts ands gets me to just as i am parking at home and dies. What is wrong with my truck? I was thinking clogged fuel filter. Let's a little fuel through the line at night which is used up on the trip. When line empty car dies. Then slowly fills line again over night.
View 8 RepliesI love this car. It's a CNG vehicle and has saved me many hours of sanity in commute traffic. I've only had it for a year. It's past life was a taxi car. It currently have close to 395k miles, and does have a few other issues (no engine light now).
The problem I have now is the front of the car starts to shake when I get the car running somewhere in the 60MPH to 65MPH range. This problem is more announce when I let go of or step the acceleration and it transitions into that speed range. The problem is dampen or less when I'm stepping on the acceleration, inside that speed range.
It's incrementally less when I'm above or below that range (+/- 5mph). The shaking and vibration sounds is almost as close to the sound that's generated if you're running the car's tire on the freeway shoulder's (california) or having a helicopter hover ontop of your car (but faster).
After car has sat for an hour or more. The car will make a clunking sound, front end, when it reaches 10 mph...but will only do this when first start driving. Doesn't make clunk after it's moving. BUT, if it sits for an hour or more later, it'll make the same clunking sound when starting out. Not related to turning steering wheel or braking.year -2011 with 20,000miles
View 14 RepliesIn january I took my 2001 Toyota corolla to the mechanic (that had replaced the engine 5 years ago) because it was using oil and gas mileage was very poor. He gave the car and tune up and right afterward I noticed the car hesitated for just a second within the first mile of driving. After the hesitation it had full power.
Then the check engine light came on with a code for O2 sensor; I had that part replaced about 2-3 years ago. So that was replaced. The next day I was driving on the highway when I heard a pop and lights came on everywhere. The car ran, but when I stopped, it was smoking and wouldn't start. AAA towed it and said the water pump broke and took the serpentine belt with it, and I had it repaired there.
Car continued to to the "hesitation" thing, but I learned to live with it, until 4 weeks later it lost power and wouldn't go more than 5 miles an hour. Very dangerous! Also the check engine light came on - O2 sensor again. The original mechanic towed it back to his shop, has had it over a month. Say sometimes it runs fine and sometimes it really hesitates. My son took the plugs out and said they didn't look new and replaced them with best quality new plugs (mechanic said the plugs looked worn due to problems reported).
He's been a mechanic his whole career and still can't find out the problem. He checked the MAF and said it's fine. I can't afford to put more money into it, but it's worth nothing but junk value now after putting over $1000 into it. I didn't have these issues before I took it to him in January. He has a good reputation, but I don't know what gives.
Is this all a coincidence that it happened at once? What could have happened?
My 03 Tacoma TRD is showing her years! The truck has about 215k and has some serious vibrations and noises going on. First off I have a constant shaking type of vibration between 25 and 35 mph, but it is also present in the higher speeds of 55 and above but sometimes it gets drowned out. I work at a ski resort so when Im coming down the mtn using 3rd gear or so to slow down I feel the vibration is the most apparent then. So far I have had 2 shops look at my driveshaft and both concluded there is nothing wrong with the u joints. I had a CV shaft installed because one of the boots was torn so I went ahead and had that replaced.
What the vibration is.....2nd is more of a intervalled whooomping sound almost like a bullfrog-like interval. As I increase speed the intervals get faster but it is a drawn out whooomp whooomp not a fast sound. It actually rattles the change in my ash tray to the bpms of the sound. Also I have a metallic clunking sound happening when I put the truck in gear (manual) or start and stop at slow speeds without using the clutch. I was driving around a parking deck the other day in first gear and it would make the sound whenever i hit the gas AND when I let off the gas. ONE MORE THING, whenever I am starting off under load in any gear, the truck jerks.....it hesitates and lurches but only at low rpms and again in any gear.
I have a 2002 Camry (4 cylinders). About two weeks ago, I started to notice vibration on the passenger side of the car, front side, when the car reaches a certain speed (around 30-40 mph). At first I thought it was a wheel inbalance, so I took it to the Toyota Dealership and have them re-balance the wheels.
The problem, however, did not go away. I remember a while back after I got an oil change, the maintenance guy at the dealership mentioned that the motor mounts were going bad. Is it possible that bad/worn motor mount can cause vibration at certain speeds? The problem only occurs on the passenger side.
I do not notice vibration at idle (I think). I will have to drive the car again to double check this. But vibration is much more apparent when the car hits 30 mph+.
My mom took her 2000 Avalon in for 40,000 mile checkup and was told a pipe had melted onto the manifold and could not be removed. The entire manifold had to be replaced in order to pass GA emission testing. Two different kinds of metal were used in the original construction of the car and when the car was heated, the melting occurred. My parents are expected to replace at their own cost. Any other reports of similar instances and if so, how was it handled? Seems like Toyota should be responsible, doesn't it?
View 30 RepliesThe oil was changed by a highly reputable shop 2 days ago, (45 miles ago). My wife noticed today that the "Low Oil Pressure" red message flashed 3 times in the last 5 miles of her 10 mile trip (45-50 mph). She stopped the car and called me. I arrived at the parked Prius and saw no oil on the dipstick. I poured a quart of synthetic in and looked under the car to see it pouring out. My finger discovered that there was No Oil Plug. I called the shop and they sent a tow truck, put a new oil plug in, refilled the oil and claim no damage since "the Prius shuts off the gas engine when low oil pressure is sensed". Looking for information about this "shut off feature?" What should I ask from the shop? What should be tested & checked for? How do you test for damage to the bearings? How about a compression test? The car has 100K miles.
View 19 RepliesBought my Camry with 25k miles on it, and had the dealer change the oil and reset the light first thing. Now I'm at 30k miles and the light has come on. I am following the 10k mile OCI.
So is this Maintenance required light going to come on every 5k miles to remind me of tire rotations and whatnot in between my 10k mile oil change intervals?
Should just turn it off now and wait until 35k miles (when it comes on again im suspecting) to get the oil changed?
03 v6, xle. 125,000 or so.
On highway, mostly notice with cruise on, what seems like engine shake starts. Almost like engine is moving around a bit. There is a noticeable "jump" sometimes, when going up or down hill and the cruise wants to adjust speed.
2002 Camry XLE. 134,000 miles. 1MX-FE 6cyl.
The timing belt was replaced by the Toyota Dealer in Sept 2011 at 101000 miles.
Yesterday after leaving home the engine just died about 1/2 mile from home. No warning, just died.
I tried to start it, the engine will turn over but won't start. It spins freely but doesn't sound like there is any compression.
The coolant reservoir was empty. I checked the fluids a week or so ago and it was full.
So:
1. Does this sound like a timing belt failure?
2. Is it possible that the water pump went out and trashed the timing belt?
3. Or, could the timing belt just be bad?
4. I've read that this engine is a non-inteferrence engine, is that true?
So far, I have a small fortune into fixing this / related problems. I'll state what we've done and what is currently happening. I've taken it to my normal mechanic several times, I'm looking for additional opinions because they basically have no idea. This is on our 2003 Chevy Tahoe, my wife's daily driver, and what my kids are normally riding in. It only has about 60K actual miles on it and is a flex fuel model, if that matters.
Originally, the truck would have trouble starting. Cranking, but no ignition. Waiting a a few seconds, try to crank again and it would start up. This went on for about a week and then it stopped cranking cranking at all. Had it towed to our mechanic. PCM B fuse was blown. Replaced PCM B Fuse (20A) and it blew again after starting. It died while trying to idle. They did some voltage drop tests, seemed good. I'm not sure they did any current tests at the fuel pump which is on that fuse. Ended up there for 4 days (yes, lots of labor) and leaving with no real clue, but a 25A fuse would work.
A week later,we were still having problems (but my memory is a bit shady). The mechanic did some pressure tests and bleed tests and said that our fuel pump was outside the specified pressure and needed to be replaced. Dropped tank, replaced pump and sending unit with a new AC Delco, replaced fuel filter. Took it home, it seemed great.
Then my wife called me and said her truck was dying at every stop sign. When she got home, I verified, the tank read 1/4 full, truck would die at almost every stop. Truck would die slowing from 45 to 20 mph to make a left turn. This was dangerous, took it back to mechanic. Mechanic couldn't find an issue, but figured it was the sending unit. Replaced the part under warranty, didn't charge me any labor. They thought that we were really empty at 1/4 tank and had a bad sending unit, but that doesn't seem to be the case now.
Here are the basics of where we are: Truck runs fine when above 1/4 tank of gas.The truck suddenly dies when stopping or slowing down when the gas gauge reaches 1/4 tank. Starts right back up with no struggle, otherwise runs fine when the tank is low..Tank never empties. We can get a maximum of 16-17 gallons in it. The tank is 26 gal, and we previously have filled it with as much as 24+ gallons in one filling. The gauge needle barely touches F when full, and basically, the car is undrivable when it reaches 1/4.