Camry :: Thudding In The Rear End
Feb 7, 2013
My fiance had 18's on her 2003 Toyota Camry LE 4cyl. We just replaced them with stock 15" wheels. About 2 months ago we replaced all the brakes and rotors as well. When we had the 18's on there, when we would hit dip we would hear it bottom out and scrape in the rear. Now that we replaced the wheels with 15" i haven't heard it do it at all but I do notice thudding noise going on in the back when we hit the slightest bumps. My guess is that the shocks and struts need to be replaced in the rear.
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I recently bought a 2003 F150 sport Scab 4x4 with 75k miles from a Ford dealer with a 4.6l auto. we didn't notice it when we test drove it but it has a squeak when going 0-10 mph in forward or reverse. The story goes a week after getting it home we started noticing a vibration and thudding in the rear end when braking so I take it back to the dealer (50 mile trip 1 way) and when I get there the drivers side rear rim is 30 degrees hotter than the passengers so the tear it apart and find the e-brake was dragging so they lube it up and tell me its good to go. I made it around the building and now I feel it dragging iddling around the parking lot and it is still squeaking so I take it right back in.
Long story short after going through this 2 times that day and bringing it back another day they replaced rear pads, calipers, roters and the hoses going to the caliper and tell me its good to go. Well it no longer had the dragging feel and I had to drive through DC traffic so I beat feet for home and on the way noticed its still sqeaking. I call them and they tell me to put a thousand miles on it and maybe the pads just need to wear in (??). so I took a road trip and 1.2k miles later it still squeaks.
I have tried to tell them it may be the u joints (after searching on here I learned that I am taking it back tomorrow and going to try and get something done but they are still saying its something to do with the brakes and probably won't do the u-joints. Normally, they are filling up the gas tank every trip up there and its all been under warranty (gonna see about getting the warrenty extended tomorrow due to this problem has been ongoing since we got it). Should I just let them run their own course and keep making trips back and forth?
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So I let my son drive my car for the day because i wasn't doing anything. Now once he gives it back i started driving and now my car drives kinda bumpy and makes a thudding noise the faster I go. now i confronted my son(He's 19) and he told me he went to fast over a hill. What seems to be the problem.
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Got a 6spd Manual. Just got Unitronic stage 2 about a week ago. Now i got probs with "slipping" "clunks" and "bumps" when I really get on the gas pedal. If I'm just smooth with the gas, no problems but it seems the newly added torque is causing something to freaking slip and it's scaring me every time it happens. Not to mention if I ever need power real quick, I'm just going to be standing still probably clanking down the road trying to get whatever it is slipping to pick up. I don't want to believe it's my clutch because this was just replaced in July 2012. How the can I stop this because I'm not enjoying it and lost all respect for my car for the moment...
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I have a Venture with a steadily-worsening vibration problem which is always worse at the front passenger side. The vibration is not the growly rumble I remember from the bad bearings I replaced 3 years ago. It's more like the thudding feel of an out-of-balance tire, but the tires are relatively new and have been rotated and balanced since purchase and since I noticed the problem. The vibration shows mainly from 45-55 mph, but not if coasting. It's only when the engine is under load that I feel it. It occurs when the gear select is in D or 3. At any other speed it is not as bad, but if I get on the gas, the vibration becomes worse. Revving the engine in park or neutral reveals no abnormal vibration.
I jacked up the van and rotated the tires again and checked for any play in the bearings or loose mounting bolts - nothing obvious there. I did notice on the passenger side of the engine, around the inboard CV joint, a spray of thick axle/moly grease, like one would find inside a CV boot, as if the boot has a small hole in it, but the CV joint does not grind or make any typical noise on sharp turn.
My list of guesses include: motor mounts, tranny mounts, bad bearing/hub, bad half shaft/CV joint, tranny going bad, bad bearing in engine.
History/details: 2004 Venture LS long wheelbase. 160,000 miles. Goodyear Viva 2 tires. Front bearings have been replaced as a set once, driver side again since then, when the ABS sensor went bad. Sometimes when I put it into drive and turn sharply to the left, traction control turns on momentarily. The tranny has begun to slip and grab on a coast-to-stop followed by sudden acceleration.
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I have 7mm spacers and when I take a hard turn, I get like an almost bouncing, rubbingish, thudding noise and feeling from my driver side wheel/tire area. I have FK coils. Do I need bigger front spacers? I have RC's btw, it gets worse as I go lower, and seems to go away if I really raise it up... how does everyone get away with this?
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My passenger side front and rear windows dont work. Both driver side windows work, just not the right side/passenger side.
Also when I press the master door lock/unlock switch on the driver seat, every door except the rear passenger door works. It stays unchanged so I guess it is not receiving a signal or something is not letting the signal reach the lock.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Camry that we purchased 14 months ago. When purchased it had bad brakes so the dealer replaced the rotors and calipers at their expense. A month ago I took the car in for a routine oil change and was notified that my rear calipers were stuck open and that my rear brakes were not working and rusted. The rotors look hardly worn, the one on the passenger side has some deep grooves in it and the driver side is pitted. We feel that we had poor work done when the brakes were replaced and that the back never worked. After the brake job was done we would get some "chinging" noise in the back brakes and I had them inspected twice and they said everything was fine. But now we find out they weren't fine.
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I have a 2011 camry se and i need to know how to take out the rear seats. I'm trying to put seat covers and i want to take out the bottom part so i can strap it tight. When i lift it up i can see two hooks.One hook i got out a while back when i just bought it but i cant do it anymore.i don't want to pull on it too much and risk ripping the seats.
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I'm trying to take the rear seat out of my 07 Camry se. I got the bottom cushion out but I have no clue how to get the back out. its the NON folding seat so its quite a biznatch. So far I have taken out two bolts on the bottom front of the seat and some trim/carpet in the back.
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My sister's 2004 Camry V6 will randomly start shaking violently from the rear. If you stop and get out, the rear passenger wheel is very hot. 4 months ago this was happening h but only on the highway. The mechanic rebuilt the parking brake and it has been fine. Now this is happening even at lower speeds (40mph). I'm afraid it may have a stuck caliper but I don't think that would make it shake.
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Replaced rear brakes for a 2004 camry. Just decided to change out pads/rotors. Rotors were stuck on, had to use the little bolt holes to thread in bolts and push out the rotor. Time to change pads, pads came off fine but when I put on new pads and tried to put it on the rotor, the gap was too small. Seemed like a stuck caliper. Tried to remove the slide bolts, top slide bolt was fine, bottom slide bolt had a lot of resistance and would not come off the slide. Regreased it, re-assembled it and it had a lot of gap to slide over the rotor.
Reassembled everything, tried to spin the rotor by hand and it was fine. Put on wheel, lugged it down and it wouldn't spin at all. Drove it, seemed fine with no pulling but the one rotor was definitely running hotter (163 vs 113) than the other side after a 5 minute drive.What would cause it to spin freely without the wheel, but not spin when the wheel is lugged down?
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I had a tire blow out, two nuts snapped off, custom rims came with car when I brought it, 12mm internal hex. I suspect they were over torqued.
I loosened self adjuster star all the way, and the drum still wont come off, I have tried heat with propane torch where hub meets drum.
And no parking brake isn't on. 2005 Camry right rear drum.
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We had a replacement rear windshield on 2009 camry , and now rear defrost does not work. Where would I look for a loose wire connection?
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I have an 04 SE with 3.3. It hit a curb hard last year. With all new parts on the front right corner, including a strut. The car would sway in all directions after the repair. I got it aligned and all was in spec except the rear strut was bent causing a 3 degree camber difference. I put new struts on all the way around.
I didn' change the front sway bar. Now the rear of car is swaying to the side when I hit a bump. Is that an alignment issue?
Seems like it bangs and bottoms out more so than it should with new struts. Used old springs, but all else on struts is new, insulators, mounts, strut. Used old boots.
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Both rear brack lights don't work. It's not the bulb because when I press the alarm both of those bulbs lights up. The middle brake light in the back window works works. What can be the issue? I already check the fuse box but all was good ...
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2012 Camry XLE Hybrid
I have a rattle from the rear of my car that I have been trying to identify for 6+ months. It only happens when the car is travelling above 60+ mph. The sound is hard to describe but it sounds like metallic or glass clicking. It is not loud (about a 2 or 3) but it is persistent and driving me crazy (literally, it's not loud but on a long drive gets so annoying).
I have sat in the back seat and it seems to come from the rear of the car (deck, glass, trunk). Been to the dealership several times. They replaced the middle seatbelt and housing to no avail. They have taped down every rod in and metal piece in the trunk. I have laid insulation in the trunk panel and around the spare tire. I have sat with the seat down and reached into the trunk to touch the trunk inside roof while the car is moving to find what is rattling. No one thing I can put my hand on stops the rattling.
Is it possible that its air flow hitting something on my car? I seem to think so because it only happens at highway speeds. But what is making the noise? Wouldn't two physical objects be tapping against each other somewhere?
Is is structural? Like the whole car is vibrating and the entire rear window is clicking against the car somehow? I have literally sat in the back seat for an hour with my ear everywhere and I can't seem to find the problem. I have taped and insulated everything I can think of and I have been to the dealer so many times I think they roll their eyes at me now.
I would love to say this sound is small and doesn't me but it does. When music is playing you cant really hear it but as soon as it stop it is there and persistent.
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My wife's car is a 2010 Camry XLE, 4 cyl/AT,which we bought new and like very much. It gets stellar fuel economy at highway speeds (35 MPG is not unusual if terrain is flat).
It has 52K miles (all the kids live at least 400 miles away...) and I've been bugged by a "whump whump whump" noise from the right rear for about 5K miles. I thought it was an alignment/tire issue (tires have 25K miles, OEM crap tires wore out w/ 26K miles). So.... I had it aligned, though it wasn't terribly out of spec. I had the tires rotated (to see if the noise would move to a different corner of the car to id or eliminate a tire problem) and I'm still getting a cyclical noise from the rear right.
At low speeds it's very noticeable and gets lost in the road noise at higher speeds.
I had an identical problem with a Maxima several years ago and hub/bearing assembly fixed it. Is there something I'm missing? Or, is the consensus a wheel bearing/hub assembly.
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how to remove it.My wife backed into my truck and put a dent in the corner of it so I am hoping i can pop it out.
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How do I replace the rear speakers in the 09 Camry? I put in door speakers no problem but can't find anything on for an 09 camry rear deck.
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The door that hides the power outlet and tray right in front of the armrest .... mine opens about 80 degrees and is sounds like it hits something inside the console as it opens. I was wondering if it is supposed to open straight up and down or not?
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