Camry :: Temp Gauge Goes Past H While Car Is Running At Any Time
Aug 19, 2014
2006 camry temp gauge goes past H while car is running at any time. Fan still works anti freeze in radiator anti freeze in reservoir. When take the key out the ignition. Temp gauge drops to the middle(normal position) 15-20 later then gauge drops to C (normal position when key is out ignition). Car runs fine no steam no leaks no funny noises. Car has 68k / 4cycl.
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Is it normal that the temperature gauge reach half the temp scale all the time ? Even though I live in a tropical island were outside temp is mostly above the 85 mark I find it a bit weird for the temp to reach that point.
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I have a 2007 Camry with the 4 cylinder engine and about 90,000 miles. I just changed the oil and took it for a test drive only to notice about 1/4 mile down the road it was running very hot. My a/c began to get warmer and my temperature gauge was at the "H". I pulled over and it immediately cooled back to normal operating temperature (in the middle of the gauge). The car was left running this entire time and I began my way back to my destination. It never ran that hot again but when I would slow down to an idle I noticed at times it would go up in temperature, but not as hot as before, and go back to normal temperatures. Sometimes during a drive it would fluctuate a little bit, but nothing as much as it would on the very start of running this car cold.
So I opened my hood and looked at the reservoir and noticed I do not see any fluid in there. I guess I should add that I have never flushed or changed the antifreeze b/c I did not know I would need to change it until recently at the 5 year mark. I also notice a little but a pink crystals (about the size of a pencil head) on a bolt at the top left of the engine, right under were the oil cap is. But that is all I noticed. No leak in my driveway or other areas of the engine. I must note that I did the oil change myself and it was nice and black, so from my experience it does not appear to be a head gasket, b/c I would assume it would be milky in color if that was the case.
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Temperature gauge stuck past hot since my engine overheated once due to a broken water pump belt...
How can I fix a stuck coolant temperature gauge?
Its on a 1998 Mercury Mystique.
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I have a 2007 6.0 that this has happened to twice now. It's fine around town but I never hear the can come on. Friday when on the interstate my my temp gauge started to rise past normal operating temperature before fan came on. Is this normal? After the fan came on it stayed at normal temp for the rest of trip....
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02 6.8 4x4 excursion. When I start the truck cold, the trans temp gauge immediately moves to "running" temp. Not really sure how this happens, I'd figure that if the xducer was trash it would ride all the way high or all the way low. What's happening here? I'd sure like a functional gauge...
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I have a 1997 Ford Explorer with 5.0, I have replaced the thermostat and the radiator cap, I drive the truck to work in the mornings (12miles) and it is fine. We live on a mountain and on the way home after getting to the top of the mountain the temperature gauge goes past middle and nears the red but does not overheat completely. Once home I open the hood and the overflow is steaming or sometimes boiling, and I have checked thermostat again to make sure and it is operating normal, I have been told fan clutch, water pump, and I don't want to just throw money at guesses.
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I have a 2003 gti 1.8t motor with 80,000 miles on it. I have been experiencing the temp gauge spiking to 260 when driving around and any time over 50mph. The car is not over heating and I just replaced the temp sensor and it did not solve the problem. The check engine code was something like coolant temp sensor low input i cleared the code after changing the sensor and has not come back on.
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2002 S-10 2.2L ... Started noticing my temp gauge running around 170 degrees as it gets cooler outside. I changed the thermostat and noticed that the connector to the temp sensor was cracked, changed that too. Had to warranty replace the temp sensor because the first one didn't register on my dashboard gauge. Still didn't get heat above 150 degrees.
Warranty replace the new thermostat and still not getting heat above 150 degrees. Radiator cap test bad at 15psi, replaced radiator cap and still not getting heat above 150 degrees. The engine is running cool and the cabin heat is not as hot as it has been for the last 5 yrs. There are no engine codes stored, anti-freeze leaks and level is correct.
I'm lost as to why all the sudden the truck starts running cold and won't build heat.
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I have a 1969 chevy c10 pickup. One of its problems is the temperature gauge was not reading. I grounded the sender wire to the engine block to deterimine if the sender was bad, and ever since the gauge reads hot all the time, even with the ignition off. Could I have fried the gauge?
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I have a 2000 monte carlo ss. A few months ago the check engine light came on, the temp gauge stopped working, and after shutting the car off you can hear the fan running for about 10-15mins after i shut it off. I assumed it was the thermostat, so that was the first thing i changed. For the first few weeks everything seemed fine. No check engine light, temp gauge worked...then today suddenly it all started happening again. What could be causing it if the thermostat has already been changed? what should i try next?
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My sister has a 2004 gli 1.8t with 65k. The temperature gauge says its overheating, the cel is on, but the car appears to run fine, the fluid levels are appear to be fine, and you cant see any leaks. Her fiance thinks its water pump issues...
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I am trouble shooting my temp gauge. I have a 1997 f350. I brought the truck a year ago and i have still not fix this problem. I install a new temp gauge and nothing changed. When ever the truck is running it reads cold and doesn't budge. Ive read that the gauge can be broken its self but during a few hot times over the summer. The gauge began to rise slower, never reaching normal temperature. A few times i messed with the heat and the gauge would shoot over the normal temp. The truck seems to run at a good temp sometimes hot though. The tube on top of the radiator is hotter than the bottom also.
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My temp gauge (which very seldom deviated form its position) is showing above normal temps. Yeah its over 90 here but this is unusual for my car to run hotter. I put in a new thermostat about 3 years ago. I've also been adding water/anti-freeze because there was a small leak (that I finally found in the hose) that I corrected. Could it be that my mixture isn't a 50/50 mix or is it my thermostat again? They say they don't last long anymore???
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I Have a 2003 Honda Civic EX that is running rough and the windows stopped working and the temp gauge doesn't rise. Would this be do to a bad/failing alternator or something else?
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After i got home from work I noticed a smell from the front so i popped the hood, oil level was a little above max, but it was still hot so thats fine. I did notice the res was low, but I was more like an oil smell. I've been told, and can kinda see the valve cover gasket needs to be replaced, but it have never made this smell before. The car is at 173k miles so I try to keep up on everything.
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My car doesn't blow hot air. the temperature gauge goes up to half way like it normally operates at but the air never get more than luke warm. I changed the thermostat last year with no better results and I just had the timing belt and water pump replaced in July. It been an average of 8 degrees here for the last week.
Its a 98 camry, 4 cyl, Automatic...
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The truck I'm working on is a 2003 f550 with a 6.0, and 382000 kilometers. My service truck died on me couple days ago, while running. As I rolled to a stop, I noticed that my temp gauge on the dash dropped to cold. (Truck was hot). Tried starting, and I have a crank, no start situation.
After towing it to my shop at work, I hooked it up to my scanner, and found that the pcm will not communicate with the scanner (otc genisis). I have no injector buzz with key on, wait to start light comes on for an abnormally long time. I have 48.3 volts on the ficm,(4 screw), and haven't been able to find any chafed wires as of yet.
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My Mom has a 07 Camry with only 40k miles. Today she's coming from the store & said the Brake, ABS lights came on and Speed, RPM & Temp gauge stop working?
The car still drove fine but it freaked her out! After 1/2hr everything worked again?
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My radiator gave way on the highway, and by the time I noticed it the temp had maxed out the gauge and all the coolent was gone. So, I only have 90k on my '94 Camry and I'm debating whether to tackle repairs and perhaps a rebuild if necessary. What's the likelihood that there's damage to the rings, bore, crank, valves, etc due to the overheat? How much repair am I potentially looking at and what can I check without a tear-down? I'd like to get it running again since I just invested in new struts, brake calipers and MS and tires (not to mention that it has been pretty-much worry-free until now), but I want to know whether it's even worth my while.
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All those 4 problems, abs light on, brake light on, odometer gauge fluctuate, temp gauge fluctuate and air conditioner stop working, all happen simultaneously. They can also recover and work altogether again for a bit a time, and then all car runs good and after some time it happens again. Quite inconsistent.
Its toyota camry 2007,v4 , 95K miles on it.
Here is how it looks, another person just recorded here : [URL]...
Went to Toyota, they diagnosed the following codes:
c121
c2177
c0205
c0215
U0073
Can it be done more economical or better way to do it. Also while the ABS unit is at fault and car is running perfectly fine with the brakes working as expected, is there any issue having the car to be used in the meantime it will be fixed.
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